B16/B18 Vtec head REBUILD LOW BUDGET EDITION

a quick step by step LOW BUDGET procedure on how to rebuild a b-series head.

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Cylinder head porting and polishing - how to diy guide
In the video I say "Most of the power comes from properly shaping the short radius" - what is more true is that most power comes from "properly aligning the seats and bowls". The short radius is still very important, so don't overlook anything. The video above is a simple, condensed how to guide on cylinder head porting and polishing. It is meant for novice and inexperienced porters who want to know what is porting and polishing and how to do it with their own cylinder head. Its sort of a porting a polishing guide for dummies if you will. But it is also detailed and specific and guides the average DIY enthusiast in exactly what, where and how to do what needs to be done in order to increase the airflow and thereby the performance of your cylinder head. The head in this video is 4age 16v bigport head from the 4age engine from my 1987 Toyota MR2 AW11. Every cylinder head is different and there are variations in what should be done during a porting and polishing job. The specifics and details of this particular cylinder head porting and polishing job apply best to the 4age bigport head, but the general principles, tools and methods are pretty much the same for any other stage 1 mild porting job and watching this video will give you a better idea of what needs to be done and how much time is needed to successfully perform a porting and polishing job. Check out my blog for more MR2, 4AGE, DIY, and other content. http://www.driving4answers.com/ Here's a nice quote from the jafromobile channel: „There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head„ There is no better way to say it than this. There is no SINGLE RIGHT WAY of porting and polishing a head. Even when it comes to two identical heads (and no two really are). So before posting a hateful comment and telling me I just „ruined my head“ or started the next apocalypse, please have in mind that there are hundreds of different cylinder head applications and dozens of different approaches to porting. The porting and polishing work depends on the particular application of that head. This is a simple, mild stage 1 porting job for a mild 4age 16v bigport engine build. The goal was to improve airflow without drastically changing the shape of the ports. What can not be argued against is that improving airflow improves horsepower, torque and mpg. Porting and polishing improves airflow. This can not be argued against. Removing rough and sharp edges in the combustion chamber helps prevent knocking when engine compression is increased. This also can not be argued against. Everything else is the subject of debate so saying that the way someone ported and polished their head is horrible because it varies from what YOU think is right and best is wrong unless that someone used a hammer and chisel to port their head. Please do the research first and if that research objectively proves that something is wrong you are welcome to comment, and even then constructive criticism is far more helpful than insults. What I have done has not been based on my own theories or knowledge, but on the advice and material from people who have ported dozens of 4age heads and have proven benefits of their work. This video would not have been possible without the input, advice and help from people who have proven experience of porting 4age and other heads. So here's a special thanks to OST, without whose advice and help I could not have ported the 4AGE 16v bigport head you see in this video. Check out his porting services: http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=300 http://s79.photobucket.com/user/oldeskewltoy/library/MOmo?sort=3&page=1 Music Beaster - Awakening - Free Background Music No Copyright Music https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRJGlq7Ov2U Beaster ► Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BeasterMusic ► YouTube - www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdKhdbCWPyw ► SoundCloud - https://soundcloud.com/beastermusic ► Twitter - https://twitter.com/BeasterMusic ► Mixcloud - http://www.mixcloud.com/beastermusic/





INTEGRA B20/VTEC ASSEMBLY! HSG EP.4-35
Continuing the tear down and build up the B20/vtec for the integra. for shirts : https://hondastreetgarage.bandcamp.com How to prep vtec head : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7mFB11lzEA





Project "No Rice" #7: Golden Eagle Conversion Kit for LS/Vtec
Brian Crower BC0026, BC5020, BC6040, BC7029, BC4020 B18/B20 (2.09L) - Includes 4340 forged crank, 92mm stroke, H-beam Pro rods (5.512 c-to-c), CP pistons 9:1 compression, and ACL Tri-metal Race bearings.





Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing and they're not bent? This is one way to fix that problem. I have filmed a professional machinist complete a proper valve job which includes cutting new seats, installing new valves, and doing some valve grinding tricks at the following video: https://youtu.be/eMNFeToqzJU For as little as $1 per video, per month you get access to early releases, exclusive content, and discussions at: http://www.patreon.com/Jafromobile Once you've completed this work, you can clearly see the size, width, and consistency of the valve mating surface on BOTH the valve, and the seat. Should any distortion appear in the mating surfaces, you will need the help of a machinist to fix this properly. I outline the cleaning and inspection techniques to help determine whether or not you need to pay a machinist to perform an actual valve job. If you find after performing these steps that your valves don't seat properly, or that your valve seat or valve margin measurements are out of spec, only then would you need a machinist's help. Here I cover the inspection process start-to-finish. All of these same procedures would be used by your machinist, usually with better equipment... but you can still do the same thing in your garage. These techniques work exactly the same way for just about every non-rotary combustion engine. It takes patience and perseverance, but anyone can do it. Reference your service manual for your engine's specifications and service limits. Everything else that's not in your service manual is in this video. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports. Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself, never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average gearhead's home garage. Tools that will give better, faster, more accurate answers than someone could determine with their eyeballs when they don't own those expensive tools. Lastly: The oxidation found on these valve seats were caused by 110 octane leaded race fuel. Some kinds of race fuel are corrosive to hardened steel valve seats. This head had only about 30,000 miles on it since its last valve job. These techniques will not fix damaged valves without causing a different kind of damage. I'm sorry I had no damaged parts beyond corrosion to show you in this video.




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