Umm... in this video I show you uhhh... how to uhh... hand polish aluminum lol. This is part 1 of 2. The entire process took roughly 4 and a half hours and I watched movies for most of them. Forgive the speech impediment lol.
polish aluminum valve covers
let me know what you think. also I do a lot of work on car so if there is
something you would like to see i can make a videos on it. I make a lot of
" Do It Your Self videos"
Motorcycle...Polishing aluminum to a chrome like finish
I wanted to chrome polish my frame, swing arm and rims on my 97 yzf600r,
but I never polished anything before. I started by polishing a small piece
on the bike first and this is how I did it. The end result was pretty
nice.. I havn't started the rest yet it, I need a lot more time
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Crankcase ventilation in a nutshell:
High cylinder pressures are achieved both on the compression and combustion
strokes. As gasses are compressed and exploded, the rings do the best they
can with extremely close tolerances (and oil) to hold all that pressure
in... but some still makes it past the rings. That's called blow-by.
Blow-by is why all combustion engines are inefficient by design, and why
they have crankcase breather systems.
Blow-by contains air, water (humidity), fuel, carbon and nitrogen. You
don't really want all that stuff in your oil, as they all contribute to oil
viscosity breakdown. A breather system works to extract those gasses from
the crankcase so they don't condensate into the oil. It does this by
connecting the car's air intake system to the crankcase so that blow-by can
be re-burnt and transformed into oxides that the catalytic converter can
easily break down.
As an engine gets worn, the physical capability of the rings to hold that
pressure in is reduced. This results in more blow-by and higher crankcase
pressure. High crankcase pressure is bad because it prevents the rings
from sealing properly, and can also blow oil seals like valve cover
gaskets, front case and rear main seals, etc... as that air tries to
escape. This is a fire hazard. Oil burns and it's hard to put out. One
of the most common tell-tale signs of high crankcase pressure on a DSM is
having to zip-tie your dipstick down. If it's getting blown out, then
there's excess pressure pushing it out because it has nowhere to go. Also,
on an engine that's holding higher crankcase pressure, that pressure works
against your oil pressure, and reduces oil flow to all points in the oil
The factory DSM crankcase has 2 ventilation systems. Two. One is a PCV
system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), and the other one is just a simple
breather. The PCV system is connected to the intake manifold, and the
breather is connected to the air intake in front of the turbo (or anywhere on the intake in front of the
throttle plate on non-turbo cars). The
PCV valve is designed to CLOSE OFF the port between the crankcase and the
intake manifold when the engine is under load (Boost). When higher pressure is in the intake
than the crankcase, a valve snaps shut preventing you from Boosting your crankcase. When you are at
idle/cruise (vacuum), it pops open letting those gasses get vacuumed out of
the crankcase. Vacuum.
The breather always vents back into the intake pre-turbo or pre-throttle plate. That airway is
always open. Neither port on either the PCV or the breather are bigger
than 1/4", so as much air as you can fit through a single 1/4" hole when
you're under Boost... that's all the
blow-by it can extract from the crankcase. That might be fine for an 11
PSI factory car, but when some tweaker wants to flow 30, 40, 50+ pounds of
Boost, this is a system which is
frequently overlooked and in desperate need of attention. You might as
well look at your Boost controller
as a blow-by increaser if that makes any sense.
You gotta get those gasses out of the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is
bad. I'm not going to cover vacuum pumps, venturis or other methods of
creating vacuum pressure in the crank case because these advanced
techniques are for racing applications with dry-sump oil systems which DSMs
do not have from the factory, and few people need.
Aside from the rings, only worn valve seals can contribute to high
crankcase pressure, and that usually causes increased oil consumption
that's visible (oil smoke) on cold starts and as the car rolls into high Boost after long periods of vacuum.
Some people have tools that can allow them to change the valve seals
without removing the cylinder head (if the rings are known to be good), but
that's far more time consuming and less complete of a fix than removing and
rebuilding the cylinder head. If the rings and cylinder bores are in bad
shape, then it's a waste of money. Someone who's performed compression and
leak-down tests has determined which parts are bad already.
As far as the rest goes, I bypassed my PCV system entirely. There is no
vacuum scavenging of gasses from the crankcase on my car. It eliminates
the chance of a PCV valve failing and Boosting my crankcase, and since I have a
catch can, excessive blow-by is still being captured through condensation.
I installed two 3/8" breather ports which flows more than 8 times the air
that the original ones could flow. That should prevent pressure from ever
building up. The -8AN fittings are compression fittings that don't require
gaskets and are extremely easy to work with. They create an airtight seal
to my Greddy catch can which I had modified to accept 2 extra fittings.
One is plugged. The other has a 5/8" line to the turbine intake to extract
gasses back to the engine like it was originally designed to do.
Polishing Aluminum (GSX is alive)
You need a big one that can run for long periods of time. Air tools are
out of the question because the compressors that can keep up with air DIY
grinders use the equivalence of 100 60-watt incandescent light bulbs while
running. Mine uses that much power and it CAN'T keep up. I like
straight-shaft electric tools because they use less power than air tools in
order to do more work. They spin faster and generally have more torque.
Electric drills don't have the RPMs needed to work efficiently because you
need heat from friction for the polishing process. Cordless,
fo'getaboutit. Bench grinders have plenty of speed, but don't make enough
torque. Most bench polishing equipment is built primarily for production,
not detail. If you have to polish large simple pieces, they're fine for
that. The goal is to use a tool that is efficient enough on what you're
polishing to make this seem less like punishment. Quality tools. Dremels
are only good for grinding and sanding tiny detail stuff, but larger
industrial DIY grinders with a .25" chuck are what you need.
Power tools are only acceptable for polishing. Power sanding equipment
doesn't have a random orbit and also doesn't leave a grain to allow you to
gauge how deep to go, so you can't achieve a polishable surface by
mechanical means. You'll also notice that sandpaper for orbital and belt
stuff doesn't go beyond 320 grit and it's expensive. With a power tool you
will inevitably leave marks too deep to remove by wet sanding with 220
grit. You will pay for cheating. Removing casting marks or rough cast
with a flap wheel is not cheating so long as you remove all of the defects
evenly and still thoroughly hand-sand the part afterwards.
Anything goes below 220 grit so long as it's dry. You have to wet-sand
everything higher than 220 grit, so both electric power tools and
non-wet-sanding paper are ruled out beyond that point. The best finishes
are hand-sanded in the crosshatch method shown in this video. If there are
stubborn scratches that your sandpaper won't take out, go to a coarser grit
and work your way back. Step up only one increment in grit with every
grade of sandpaper available until there are no visible scratches in the
surface. Skipping a grit will just mean you have to work 4x as hard to do
the same work. So 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, etc... Depending on what
grade of aluminum you're working with, you can sometimes get away with
sanding the part only to 600 grit. To get the most out of a shine, you
have to go beyond 1000 grit. The farther you go with the sandpaper, the
less work it will take to polish and maintain.
The black rouge, or emery compound, has an abrasive in it. It's also
considered a cutting compound. It removes material and makes easy work of
oxidation. Because it has an abrasive it can leave directional swirls in
the finish that are visible in some lighting conditions. It's an
extremely-coarse polish but in many cases can produce a brilliant shine.
Brown rouge is a step between black and white. Though unnecessary if
you're using black, brown is less aggressive while still having the ability
to remove scratches and defects. You can also polish wood with it.
White rouge is ideal for precious metals PLUS aluminum. It removes what a
jeweler calls a deep scratch, but what an auto enthusiast may consider
invisible. If there's a scratch that the black rouge didn't take out,
white rouge won't do it. It will however, bring out the most reflective
finish in aluminum that you can achieve mechanically.
Jeweler's rouge (red) is not for aluminum. Neither is blue or green.
Well... blue is universal supposedly. I haven't ever needed it and don't
About polishing wheels:
Polishing wheels come in different textures. For black rouge I use hard or
triple-stitched flannel wheels. The more stitching, the harder it is. The
soft wheels tend to disintegrate quickly. The harder wheels can contribute
to swirl-effects in the finish when they become contaminated.
I can't say enough good stuff about cheap-old Blue Magic metal polish.
Brightens the best white rouge polish jobs and is really easy to work with.
Mothers is good. NEV-R-DULL is an amazing product that lifts and cleans
almost anything out of metal.
Where to get supplies:
You can buy rouge by the pound at truck stops. Lots of great polishing
supplies can usually be found anywhere where you'll find the rigs. Ask a
trucker. Also there's HarborFreight, Eastwood, PJ Tool & Supply, and lots
of others. Everything's within google distance.
how to polish aluminum engine covers
sand paper: autozone, $10
buffing compound and wheels: harbor freight, $10
I don't usually sound like I've been smoking 2 packs a day for 40 years,
but I shot this first thing in the morning.
How To Polish Aluminum Rims
This is how I polish aluminum rims. I AM NOT A PROFESSIONAL.
How did I learn to do this? Just like you are right now-by watching
YouTube! Special thanks goes to DC Super Shine for all their videos and
Rims were originally on the back of a semi truck. The driver traded them
in for super singles, so I bought all eight. I polished them for my bus,
and the extras I polished to sell.
They are available for whoever wants to buy them.
How to Buff Metal Like a Pro DIY by V8TV & Eastwood
BUY Buffing Supplies Here:
BUY Buff Motor Kit Here: http://www.eastwood.com/1-2-hp-buff-kit.html
Check out our entire buffing line here:
Kevin from V8TV goes over how to set up, and use Eastwood's buffing motor
on a set of valve covers.
It features extended length and balanced shafts for lots of room to work
around your part. The cast housing and base assure smooth operation and
extended bearing life. This high value system includes
The durable (13542) 1/2 Hp Buff Motor with sealed case design for
Just bolt the motor to your
stand or workbench and buff virtually any metal or plastic. See the
tab for a list of all the items included.
How to Polish a Black Car
The Products used in this Video are
3M Rubbing / Cutting Compound (step 1 on white pad)
3M Swirl Mark Remover (step 2 on black pad)
3M Ultrafina (step 3 on blue pad)
This how to on polishing a black car can be applied to any color. This is a
thorough polishing job that is most noticeable on a black or dark finish
and illustrates all steps on how to polish.
The 3m Polishing system is used in this video but many others are just as