Umm... in this video I show you uhhh... how to uhh... hand polish aluminum lol. This is part 1 of 2. The entire process took roughly 4 and a half hours and I watched movies for most of them. Forgive the speech impediment lol.
"How To" polish aluminum by hand (part 2)
Umm... in this video I show you uhhh... how to uhh... hand polish aluminum
lol. This is part 2 of 2. The entire process took roughly 4 and a half
hours and I watched movies for most of them. Forgive the speech impediment
how to polish aluminum engine covers
sand paper: autozone, $10
buffing compound and wheels: harbor freight, $10
I don't usually sound like I've been smoking 2 packs a day for 40 years,
but I shot this first thing in the morning.
Aluminum Anodizing Motorcycle Parts
Anodizing Aluminum. A short video showing how I anodize aluminum using the
Low Current Density (LCD) method. I did not show all the rinsing steps but
the parts do have to be rinsed thoroughly between tanks.
polish aluminum valve covers
let me know what you think. also I do a lot of work on car so if there is
something you would like to see i can make a videos on it. I make a lot of
" Do It Your Self videos"
Motorcycle...Polishing aluminum to a chrome like finish
I wanted to chrome polish my frame, swing arm and rims on my 97 yzf600r,
but I never polished anything before. I started by polishing a small piece
on the bike first and this is how I did it. The end result was pretty
nice.. I havn't started the rest yet it, I need a lot more time
DIY Aluminium Polishing.mov
Finally released, the DIY aluminium polishing DVD you've all been waiting
for. "How to" tips from a retired professional polisher and his 19 yr old
daughter Phoebe actually doing the job. Watch the clip to see how it's done
and the details on how to get the DVD. You can do a lot with just the basic
Polishing Aluminum (GSX is alive)
You need a big one that can run for long periods of time. Air tools are
out of the question because the compressors that can keep up with air DIY
grinders use the equivalence of 100 60-watt incandescent light bulbs while
running. Mine uses that much power and it CAN'T keep up. I like
straight-shaft electric tools because they use less power than air tools in
order to do more work. They spin faster and generally have more torque.
Electric drills don't have the RPMs needed to work efficiently because you
need heat from friction for the polishing process. Cordless,
fo'getaboutit. Bench grinders have plenty of speed, but don't make enough
torque. Most bench polishing equipment is built primarily for production,
not detail. If you have to polish large simple pieces, they're fine for
that. The goal is to use a tool that is efficient enough on what you're
polishing to make this seem less like punishment. Quality tools. Dremels
are only good for grinding and sanding tiny detail stuff, but larger
industrial DIY grinders with a .25" chuck are what you need.
Power tools are only acceptable for polishing. Power sanding equipment
doesn't have a random orbit and also doesn't leave a grain to allow you to
gauge how deep to go, so you can't achieve a polishable surface by
mechanical means. You'll also notice that sandpaper for orbital and belt
stuff doesn't go beyond 320 grit and it's expensive. With a power tool you
will inevitably leave marks too deep to remove by wet sanding with 220
grit. You will pay for cheating. Removing casting marks or rough cast
with a flap wheel is not cheating so long as you remove all of the defects
evenly and still thoroughly hand-sand the part afterwards.
Anything goes below 220 grit so long as it's dry. You have to wet-sand
everything higher than 220 grit, so both electric power tools and
non-wet-sanding paper are ruled out beyond that point. The best finishes
are hand-sanded in the crosshatch method shown in this video. If there are
stubborn scratches that your sandpaper won't take out, go to a coarser grit
and work your way back. Step up only one increment in grit with every
grade of sandpaper available until there are no visible scratches in the
surface. Skipping a grit will just mean you have to work 4x as hard to do
the same work. So 220, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, etc... Depending on what
grade of aluminum you're working with, you can sometimes get away with
sanding the part only to 600 grit. To get the most out of a shine, you
have to go beyond 1000 grit. The farther you go with the sandpaper, the
less work it will take to polish and maintain.
The black rouge, or emery compound, has an abrasive in it. It's also
considered a cutting compound. It removes material and makes easy work of
oxidation. Because it has an abrasive it can leave directional swirls in
the finish that are visible in some lighting conditions. It's an
extremely-coarse polish but in many cases can produce a brilliant shine.
Brown rouge is a step between black and white. Though unnecessary if
you're using black, brown is less aggressive while still having the ability
to remove scratches and defects. You can also polish wood with it.
White rouge is ideal for precious metals PLUS aluminum. It removes what a
jeweler calls a deep scratch, but what an auto enthusiast may consider
invisible. If there's a scratch that the black rouge didn't take out,
white rouge won't do it. It will however, bring out the most reflective
finish in aluminum that you can achieve mechanically.
Jeweler's rouge (red) is not for aluminum. Neither is blue or green.
Well... blue is universal supposedly. I haven't ever needed it and don't
About polishing wheels:
Polishing wheels come in different textures. For black rouge I use hard or
triple-stitched flannel wheels. The more stitching, the harder it is. The
soft wheels tend to disintegrate quickly. The harder wheels can contribute
to swirl-effects in the finish when they become contaminated.
I can't say enough good stuff about cheap-old Blue Magic metal polish.
Brightens the best white rouge polish jobs and is really easy to work with.
Mothers is good. NEV-R-DULL is an amazing product that lifts and cleans
almost anything out of metal.
Where to get supplies:
You can buy rouge by the pound at truck stops. Lots of great polishing
supplies can usually be found anywhere where you'll find the rigs. Ask a
trucker. Also there's HarborFreight, Eastwood, PJ Tool & Supply, and lots
of others. Everything's within google distance.