Большой тест-драйв (видеоверсия): BMW 3 серии
Все наши тесты: btdrive.ru
В «Большом тест-драйве» автомобиль,
который Сергей Стиллавин хотел бы иметь
в своём владении, Рустам Вахидов
признает его высокое качество, но
отмечает небольшие проблемы с
управляемостью, а Виктория Колосова
заявила, что он (автомобиль) «ну...
BMW 325 e30 - Большой тест-драйв (б/у) / Big Test Drive
Подкаст «Большой тест-драйв» -
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BMW 325 e30 1990 года у нынешнего владельца
всего полмесяца. За это время он не успел
ничего с ней сделать и поэтому в салоне
присутствует магнитола, которую хочется
выкинуть. В остальном - понравилась ли
машина ведущим "Большого тест-драйва"?
Что мешает владельцу стать актёром и
каким словам, за время тест-драйва,
нахватались Сергей Стиллавин и Рустам
Team Review: BMW 3 Series 320d - Fifth Gear
In this review, the team get hold of the BMW 3 series, specifically the BMW
3 Series 320d. And they are more impressed than they originally thought!
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Gear moments, subscribe to our Official Channel -
BMW 335i vs Audi S4! - Head 2 Head Episode 10
On this episode of Head 2 Head, Carlos Lago pits the new 2012 BMW 335i
against it's natural rival from Ingolstadt - the 2012 Audi S4. The 3 Series
has long enjoyed its reputation as the benchmark of European sports sedans.
But does the more powerful S4 finally have what it takes to end BMW's
Head 2 Head appears every other Wednesday on the new Motor Trend channel.
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2014 BMW 3 Series Review
Carpreview.com reviews the 2014 BMW 3 Series. For more information, visit
'67 Crusher Camaro vs '70 Super Bee 1,500-Mile Burnout-Fest! - Roadkill Episode 19
On this episode of Roadkill, it's Freiburger in the Super Bee versus
Finnegan in the '67 Camaro as the guys make the trip
from Los Angeles to Salt Lake City and back to go race at the Midnight
Drags at Rocky Mountain Raceways in hopes of running the Bee on Nitrous for the first time since the Hemi was
installed. Which car will work best over 1,500 miles of mayem in three
The 700hp, blown Crusher Camaro is HOT ROD's longest-term
project car, surviving 20 years at the magazine. David Freiburger's 675hp
Hemi 1970 Dodge Super Bee is his first car, having been with him 30 years.
Both cars suffer from magazine-project-car syndrome: getting brief spurts
of attention followed by long periods of neglect. For the first time in
years, both cars were running and driving at the same time.
The Crusher Camaro is a
'67 model that was purchased for $700 in 1994 during California's
car-crushing program; it was rescued from the parking lot of a junkyard
where it was about to be handed in for crushing. It's been through a number
of engines in its time at HOT ROD magazine, and the most recent is a 489ci
bi-block (4.280 bore, 4.250 stroke) with 9.3:1 compression. It has a small,
224-at-0.050 Comp hydraulic roller cam, Holley oval-port heads, and a
Weiand 8-71 Supercharger with two Holley
850HP carbs. The engine makes 700 hp and 720 lb-ft on 5 psi Boost, but is tame enough to drive anywhere.
The transmission is a Gearstar 4L85E that's really awesome, and the Ford
9-inch is loaded with 3.50 gears. The car is styled with Center Line Auto
Drags and a nose-high stance to look like a street machine of the early
¹80s. It has run 10.60 at 125 in the quarter-mile in the same trim seen in
Freiburger's ¹70 Dodge Super Bee is powered by a 10:0:1-compression, 484ci
Hemi with ported iron cylinder heads and a Comp solid roller camshaft. It
also uses a Holley Dominator carb on a custom dual-plane intake manifold by
Dick Landy, whose shop built the long-block in 1995. It made 675 hp on the
engine Dyno, but in
the car is has smaller headers, fairly restrictive Exhaust, and a mechanical fan that pull it down
to around 600. The trans is a Gearstar 727 Torqueflite backed by a Gear
Vendors under/overdrive, and the Strange 60 rearend has 3.73 gears (a
little too high for the
natuarally aspirated combo). The car weights 4,050 pounds with the driver,
and has run 11.80 at 118 mph on the motor.
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Part 1: Installing shocks, struts and springs on a BMW 3 series 99 thru 05 (E46)
BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/14307
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All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at
http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech
blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at:
In Part-1 of this two part series, we will replace the front
shock/strut/spring assembly. See Part-2 for the rear shock and spring
The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard shock and spring replacement
for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer
has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as
fastener torque values. Note that we will be installing the Bilstein
PSS-10 coil-over kit. However, the procedures would be the same for any
common shock/strut replacement (including installing sport springs, if
• New shocks/struts (Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, etc.)
• New sport or stock replacement springs, if desired (BMW, BavAuto,
• New Shock install kits (compression bumpers, dust shields, spring pads,
• New upper strut and shock mounts
• New strut & shock mount gaskets (as required)
• Rear shock mount reinforcing plates
• Bentley Repair Manual
• BavAuto Non-Marring pry bar set
* BavAuto spring compressor tool
• 13mm through 18mm ½"drive socket & ratchet set with various extensions
• 4mm through 8mm Allen keys or bits (for ratchet use)
• 13mm through 18mm combination wrench set
• Assorted flat and Phillips screwdrivers
FRONT (applies directly to the E46 3-series, but others are similar):
1) Safely raise the front of car, with suspension hanging.
2) Remove the wheels.
3) Disconnect the upper end of the swaybar link from the shock/strut
bracket. Note that the through-stud for the link's upper joint (as well as
the lower) must be secured using a 16mm to 18mm thin open end wrench. This
particular link is 16mm.
4) Remove the strut mounting pinch-bolt. The bolt goes through the strut
mounting clamp on the wheel hub/spindle assembly and has a nut on the
opposite side (some models do not use nuts, the bolt threads into the
5) Set the mounting bracket for the ABS sensor wire, brake pad wear sensor
wire (left side only) and brake fluid hose aside. Note that other models
may have these hoses mounted in a bracket that is affixed to the
shock/strut housing. In these cases, remove the wires and hose from the
6) If the vehicle has adaptive headlights (self-aiming), disconnect the
sensor link from the control arm or the sensor bell-crank arm. The sensors
may only be present on one side of the vehicle.
7) Place a support or jack under the lower control arm to support the
suspension as the upper strut mount nuts are removed.
8) Remove the three 13mm nuts that secure the upper mount to the body
(strut tower), under the hood.
9) Gently lower the jack or support, from step-6, and lower the strut
assembly. Pull the strut assembly up and out of the hub/spindle. A helper
may need to push down on the hub/spindle as you pull the strut upward. If
the clamp is too tight for the strut to pull out, use a cold-chisel or
large flat-blade screwdriver as a wedge to open the clamp a bit. Tap the
wedge into the split in the clamp, widening the clamp, allowing the strut
to be removed.
10) Once removed from the hub/spindle clamp, remove the strut assembly from
the wheel well area.
11) Install a spring compressor to the spring on the strut assembly.
Compress the spring until you can tell that the spring pressure is relieved
from the upper and lower spring seats.
10) Remove the upper shock/strut nut that is at the top of the assembly, in
the center of the upper mount. To remove the nut, you can use the method
shown in the Spring 2007 issue of our Fast Times newsletter, page-7, or you
can use an impact gun. DO NOT use an impact gun for re-assembly!
11) Once the nut is removed, disassemble the upper mount, upper spring
perch and washers from the shock's piston rod. Keep track of the various
washers and their locations.
12) Pull the spring (and compressor) off of the shock/strut.
13) Assemble the new shock/strut and/or spring.
14) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube
requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps
All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store,
http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. e-mail us at
email@example.com or call our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable
advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM
EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).
BMW 3 Series saloon review - CarBuyer
BMW 3 Series saloon 2014 review: http://bit.ly/1cFYfdQ
Subscribe to the Carbuyer YouTube channel: http://bit.ly/17k4fct
Subscribe to Auto Express: http://subscribe.autoexpress.co.uk/cb
The new BMW 3 Series has a lot to live up to, as its predecessor has been
the class leader in the compact executive sector since making its debut in
2005. But the old car wasn't without its flaws, and recent updates to the
Audi A4 and Mercedes C-Class have made the 3 Series look vulnerable. As a
result, the latest model couldn't have come soon enough. Designers have
worked hard to improve BMW in every area, while there's now a model to suit
every taste and budget, including ES, ED, SE, Luxury, Modern and Sport.
Bigger, more refined and with a range of efficient new engines, the all-new
version is the best yet.
Get six issues of our sister title, Auto Express magazine for £1:
Regular Car Reviews: 1991 BMW E30 318i
The BMW E30 is the prerequisite to "being a car guy" even more than the
Mazda Miata MX5.
The M42 engine was not put into E30 sedans until 1991, although it did
exist in E30 318is coupes. It was in every E36, so in a lot of ways my E30
is sort of unique.
This car is one of the few E30s to not have a sunroof. The point is most
people weren't as cheap as the original owner who bought this car in 1991.
In fact, This E30 only has one optional extra: a digital clock/temp gauge.
That might have been standard in 1991. I'm not sure but it wasn't at the
start of the E30. It is the cheapest E30 you could buy in 1991. The fact
that it doesn't have a sunroof is sort of a subculture thing; I've heard
them referred to as "slick tops".
This E30 is untouched in terms of performance; as slow as BMW wanted it to
be. Lots of E30s are slammed or track-day focused, but mine is stock as a
rock. Still great to drive.
Ask any E30 owner, maintenance is expensive and sucks. In a lot of ways,
owning an E30 is like dating a super-expensive high-maintenance MILF who
cheats on you and sometimes abuses you, but whom you live anyway.