Part 1: Installing shocks, struts and springs on a BMW 3 series 99 thru 05 (E46)
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In Part-1 of this two part series, we will replace the front
shock/strut/spring assembly. See Part-2 for the rear shock and spring
The Bentley repair manuals will cover standard shock and spring replacement
for the various BMW and MINI models. This DIY will assume that the DIYer
has the applicable Bentley manual for additional reference as well as
fastener torque values. Note that we will be installing the Bilstein
PSS-10 coil-over kit. However, the procedures would be the same for any
common shock/strut replacement (including installing sport springs, if
• New shocks/struts (Bilstein, Koni, Sachs, etc.)
• New sport or stock replacement springs, if desired (BMW, BavAuto,
• New Shock install kits (compression bumpers, dust shields, spring pads,
• New upper strut and shock mounts
• New strut & shock mount gaskets (as required)
• Rear shock mount reinforcing plates
• Bentley Repair Manual
• BavAuto Non-Marring pry bar set
* BavAuto spring compressor tool
• 13mm through 18mm ½"drive socket & ratchet set with various extensions
• 4mm through 8mm Allen keys or bits (for ratchet use)
• 13mm through 18mm combination wrench set
• Assorted flat and Phillips screwdrivers
FRONT (applies directly to the E46 3-series, but others are similar):
1) Safely raise the front of car, with suspension hanging.
2) Remove the wheels.
3) Disconnect the upper end of the swaybar link from the shock/strut
bracket. Note that the through-stud for the link's upper joint (as well as
the lower) must be secured using a 16mm to 18mm thin open end wrench. This
particular link is 16mm.
4) Remove the strut mounting pinch-bolt. The bolt goes through the strut
mounting clamp on the wheel hub/spindle assembly and has a nut on the
opposite side (some models do not use nuts, the bolt threads into the
5) Set the mounting bracket for the ABS sensor wire, brake pad wear sensor
wire (left side only) and brake fluid hose aside. Note that other models
may have these hoses mounted in a bracket that is affixed to the
shock/strut housing. In these cases, remove the wires and hose from the
6) If the vehicle has adaptive headlights (self-aiming), disconnect the
sensor link from the control arm or the sensor bell-crank arm. The sensors
may only be present on one side of the vehicle.
7) Place a support or jack under the lower control arm to support the
suspension as the upper strut mount nuts are removed.
8) Remove the three 13mm nuts that secure the upper mount to the body
(strut tower), under the hood.
9) Gently lower the jack or support, from step-6, and lower the strut
assembly. Pull the strut assembly up and out of the hub/spindle. A helper
may need to push down on the hub/spindle as you pull the strut upward. If
the clamp is too tight for the strut to pull out, use a cold-chisel or
large flat-blade screwdriver as a wedge to open the clamp a bit. Tap the
wedge into the split in the clamp, widening the clamp, allowing the strut
to be removed.
10) Once removed from the hub/spindle clamp, remove the strut assembly from
the wheel well area.
11) Install a spring compressor to the spring on the strut assembly.
Compress the spring until you can tell that the spring pressure is relieved
from the upper and lower spring seats.
10) Remove the upper shock/strut nut that is at the top of the assembly, in
the center of the upper mount. To remove the nut, you can use the method
shown in the Spring 2007 issue of our Fast Times newsletter, page-7, or you
can use an impact gun. DO NOT use an impact gun for re-assembly!
11) Once the nut is removed, disassemble the upper mount, upper spring
perch and washers from the shock's piston rod. Keep track of the various
washers and their locations.
12) Pull the spring (and compressor) off of the shock/strut.
13) Assemble the new shock/strut and/or spring.
14) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube
requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps
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'67 Crusher Camaro vs '70 Super Bee 1,500-Mile Burnout-Fest! - Roadkill Episode 19
On this episode of Roadkill, it's Freiburger in the Super Bee versus
Finnegan in the '67 Camaro as the guys make the trip
from Los Angeles to Salt Lake City and back to go race at the Midnight
Drags at Rocky Mountain Raceways in hopes of running the Bee on Nitrous for the first time since the Hemi was
installed. Which car will work best over 1,500 miles of mayem in three
The 700hp, blown Crusher Camaro is HOT ROD's longest-term
project car, surviving 20 years at the magazine. David Freiburger's 675hp
Hemi 1970 Dodge Super Bee is his first car, having been with him 30 years.
Both cars suffer from magazine-project-car syndrome: getting brief spurts
of attention followed by long periods of neglect. For the first time in
years, both cars were running and driving at the same time.
The Crusher Camaro is a
'67 model that was purchased for $700 in 1994 during California's
car-crushing program; it was rescued from the parking lot of a junkyard
where it was about to be handed in for crushing. It's been through a number
of engines in its time at HOT ROD magazine, and the most recent is a 489ci
bi-block (4.280 bore, 4.250 stroke) with 9.3:1 compression. It has a small,
224-at-0.050 Comp hydraulic roller cam, Holley oval-port heads, and a
Weiand 8-71 Supercharger with two Holley
850HP carbs. The engine makes 700 hp and 720 lb-ft on 5 psi Boost, but is tame enough to drive anywhere.
The transmission is a Gearstar 4L85E that's really awesome, and the Ford
9-inch is loaded with 3.50 gears. The car is styled with Center Line Auto
Drags and a nose-high stance to look like a street machine of the early
¹80s. It has run 10.60 at 125 in the quarter-mile in the same trim seen in
Freiburger's ¹70 Dodge Super Bee is powered by a 10:0:1-compression, 484ci
Hemi with ported iron cylinder heads and a Comp solid roller camshaft. It
also uses a Holley Dominator carb on a custom dual-plane intake manifold by
Dick Landy, whose shop built the long-block in 1995. It made 675 hp on the
engine Dyno, but in
the car is has smaller headers, fairly restrictive Exhaust, and a mechanical fan that pull it down
to around 600. The trans is a Gearstar 727 Torqueflite backed by a Gear
Vendors under/overdrive, and the Strange 60 rearend has 3.73 gears (a
little too high for the
natuarally aspirated combo). The car weights 4,050 pounds with the driver,
and has run 11.80 at 118 mph on the motor.
Roadkill appears every fourth Friday on the Motor Trend channel.
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Nitrous oxide Jaguar XJS drag race - Top Gear - BBC
Can an old, clapped out £250 Jaguar XJS beat a host of supercars in a drag
race? Its chances are dramatically improved if you strap a couple of
canisters of Nitrous oxide to the
Subscribe to see all the reviews, races and challenges:
Top Gear YouTube channel: http://www.youtube.com/topgear
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This is a channel from BBC Worldwide who help fund new BBC programmes.
BMW 330ci Supercharged On Dyno !!!
Here we have a BMW 330ci that we had previously done Exhaust and tune,since we have added the
- VF Engineering Supercharger Kit
- Autowerks Hand made dual 2.5inch Exhaust system
- Custom tune to suit
- 4 psi Boost
The result was healthy 196.3kws / 263hp at the wheels,on the road this car
was awsome,with super smooth response with a sweet Exhaust note with zero drone,the power delivery
of the VF Engineering Supercharger was
phenominal with whisper quiet operation keep this 330ci in stealth mode...a
must for any BMW 330CI owner !
M54B30 Engine Break In
0 hr M54B30 break-in on Dyno after rebuild:
- Stock M54B30 Intake
- Ported Head
- Upgraded valves/springs
- Schrick 264/248 Camshafts
- Electric water pump
- Custom ATI Damper
- Baffled pan / oil pump upgrade / Inline oil filter / Oil cooler /
Accusump / 12 quarts Oil
- Custom Billet oil squirters
- Coated Bearings
- Arrow Rods (Steel)
- CP 11:1 Forged Pistons
- Kromer Kraft Headers and 3.5" Exhaust
- Custom DME Software (7600 RPM)
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