Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times 0-60 Dyno Fast Cars Muscle Cars

Replacing the BMW M54 Crankcase Ventilation System, Part 1 of 3

Learn how to replace the crankcase ventilation system (PCV) on your BMW. In this three-part series, Bavarian Otto shows you how to do it yourself and save hundreds of dollars over what a dealer would charge. Everything you need for the job is available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/ Have a tech question about your BMW or MINI? Find the answer at http://blog.bavauto.com/


 


More Videos...


Replacing the BMW M54 Crankcase Ventilation System, Part 2 of 3
Learn how to replace the crankcase ventilation system (PCV) on your BMW. In this three-part series, Bavarian Otto shows you how to do it yourself and save hundreds of dollars over what a dealer would charge. Everything you need for the job is available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/ Have a tech question about your BMW or MINI? Find the answer at http://blog.bavauto.com/





Part 1: Changing Automatic Transmission Fluid & Filter On A BMW/MINI
blog.BavAuto.com -- Most people think that because BMW and MINI call their transmission fluids "Lifetime" or "Extended Service" it doesn't have to be changed. Not true. To get the most out of your transmission and avoid a costly, catastrophic failure, you should change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles. Watch Bavarian Otto demonstrate how to do this on a BMW E39 (5 series 97 thru 03). You'll find the specific fluid and filter your BMW/MINI needs in our online store at www.BavAuto.com.





Part 1: Replacing Control Arms in a BMW 3 Series or MINI - BavAuto DIY
PART 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nsUUSp2xEos PART 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47UbYE3tExM BLOG ARTICLE: http://blog.bavauto.com/go/control-arm "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- In this two part video series Otto will show you how to replace front control arms and control arm bushings on a typical BMW 3-series 84-05 and MINI. Note that while these procedures are shown on an E30 3-series (84-91) BMW, they can also be applied to the E36 3-Series (92-98), E46 3-series (99-05) and MINI models. Of the 3-series and MINI models listed, some will look slightly different or have slightly different hardware but, the basic points and procedures are the same. --- Part one - Control arm and bushing removal steps In this video we will remove the front control arm and control arm bushing on a BMW 3-series (and MINI). Part-2 covers the installation. For a list of the parts and tools used, see the accompanying BLOG post at: http://blog.bavauto.com/go/control-arm 1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front wheels are off the ground. 2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly. 3) If the swaybar end link is connected to the control arm (as on this E30 and most E36 3-series), remove the nut from the underside of the control arm, that secures the end link bracket to the control arm. 4) Release the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen the nut on the top of the ball joint's tapered pin, but do not fully remove it. Using a 2 lb to 3 lb short handled sledgehammer (properly called, a drilling hammer), give the knuckle area a series of sharp-forceful blows. If the ball joint's tapered pin does not release from the knuckle, try using a pry-bar to provide downward pressure on the end of the control arm .... while hitting the knuckle with the hammer. This can take a good series of multiple HARD blows with the hammer. If the tapered pin is still not releasing, you will have to resort to a "pickle-fork". Insert the pickle-fork between the ball joint and the knuckle and use the hammer to force the pickle-fork between the two parts. If you get the pickle fork as far as it will go and the joint is still not separating, try repeating the blows to the knuckle (as in the first sequence), with the pickle-fork in place. NOTE: Never use a pickle-fork to separate the ball joints if you intend to reuse the control arm (and ball joints), as the fork will typically tear the ball joint's rubber boot. 5) Release the inner ball joint in a similar fashion to the outer ball joint, with the exception that you will be hitting the cast area of the control arm, where the ball-joint mounts into the arm. Note that it may be necessary to resort to the pickle-fork due to a lack of area to use the hammer, as a first course of action. 6) Remove the rear control arm bushing mount bracket by removing the two bolts securing the bracket to the vehicle. Note the position and overall relationship of the bracket and how it is mounted to the uni-body frame rail, for the future re-installation. 7) Fully remove the nuts on the ball joints and lower the control arm and bushing assembly from the vehicle. NOTE: If you are re-using the control arm bushing mounting brackets and installing new bushings in the brackets, follow steps 8-10. If you are installing pre-assembled bushing and bracket assemblies, skip to step 11. 8) Use the control arm bushing removal/install tool to remove the bushing and bracket assembly from the end of the control arm pin. 9) Using a hydraulic press, press the bushing out of the bushing mount bracket. 10) Using a hydraulic press, press the new bushing into the mount bracket. Note if there are any alignment marks to tend with. The new bushing will either install in the same manner as the old original bushing (alignment marks, etc.), or it will come with an installation sheet outlining the proper installation. Now, click on to Part-2 and continue with the installation of the new control arm and bushing assemblies. --- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





How to install a performance free-flow exhaust on a BMW or MINI
BLOG ARTICLE:http://blog.bavauto.com/14271 "Like" us on Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BavarianAutosport "Follow" us on Twitter - http://www.twitter.com/BavAuto "Subscribe" to us on YouTube - http://www.youtube.com/BavarianAuto Visit our online store - http://www.bavauto.com/ All of the items shown in these videos are available in our online store at http://www.bavauto.com/. Need additional tech help? Please visit our tech blog for thousands of Tech and DIY BMW and MINI articles at: http://blog.bavauto.com/ --- Installing a performance free-flow muffler or Exhaust system on your BMW or MINI is a task that most DIYers should be able to complete in a couple hours to half a day. Most systems are a direct bolt-on to replace the original parts or a simple cut-in, where the pipe is cut and the new system slips over the cut end of the pipe. The new systems hang from the original mounting points and center into the rear valance opening in the same manner as the original systems. Since the installation of a full bolt-on system is as straight forward as simply removing the old system and installing the new system in exactly the same manner, in this DIY we will show you a typical cut-in system installation. The only specialized tool that you will need is a pipe cutter, such as the one that we offer. Follow along as we install a Scorpion Free-Flow muffler set on a 2007 335i. Then, listen to the before and after sound clips. Of the 100% stainless steel systems that we offer, the Scorpion system is our quietest Free-Flow system (on most models). For a bit more "European" sound, choose the Remus systems. For those who wish to have the most aggressive Exhaust sounds (and performance), we suggest the MagnaFlow and the Billy-Boat systems. Remember, all of these systems are 100% stainless steel. PARTS USED: • Scorpion Free-Flow Mufflers for BMW 335i • Wurth Exhaust Assembly Paste • New rubber Exhaust hangers, as needed. TOOLS USED: • MechanicAll penetrant and lubricant spray • Exhaust tubing cutter • SafeGrip Gloves • 10mm through 15mm 3/8" drive socket and ratchet set with various extensions • 10mm through 15mm combination wrench set • Assorted flat-blade screwdrivers and pry-bars. PROCEDURE: NOTE: We suggest that you work with a helper to support the muffler assemblies during set-up and installation. 1) Safely and properly raise the rear of the vehicle. Drive-on ramps can be used for this procedure, as well as a floor-jack and jack-stands. NOTE: This DIY is performed on an E90 (06-12) 335i model. This model has two separate mufflers with two inlet pipes and a cross-over pipe between the mufflers. In order to lower these units, mark and cut both inlet pipes and lower as a complete unit. On this vehicle, we separated the two mufflers at the cross-over pipe due to our performing a live DIY for an audience and then a second DIY for our video. In separating the mufflers, we could perform these two full DIYs on one car. 2) Raise and support the new muffler assembly, below the original muffler. Align the hanging points with the original hanging points. Mark the Exhaust pipe in a location that will allow the original piping to be inserted into the new muffler's piping by about 2". Remember, it is better to have to cut a second time to shorten the pipe, rather than be too short on the first cut. 3) Position the pipe cutter around the pipe, at the marked location. Tighten the tool and roll the tool as far clockwise and counter-clockwise as clearance allows. Keep working the tool until the pipe is cut (similar to cutting copper plumbing pipe with a tubing cutter). 4) Support the muffler and disconnect the forward and rear hangers. Unbolt the forward hanger bracket from the chassis. Unbolt the rear hanger from the muffler. 5) Lower the original muffler. 6) Note that the new Muffler has welded on hanger pins for both the front and the rear hangers. 7) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps at http://blog.bavauto.com/ NOTE: For this vehicle, and others with separate left and right mufflers, install and align both mufflers at the same time. Do not fully tighten the clamps until you are satisfied that both sides are hanging symmetrically. -------- All products noted in this video can be purchased in our online store, http://www.bavauto.com/, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. You are also welcome to e-mail us at info@bavauto.com or call into our headquarters and speak to our knowledgeable advisors at (800) 535-2002 (Mon.-Thurs. 8AM to 9PM EST, Fri. 8AM to 7PM EST, and Sat. 9AM to 4PM EST).





BMW Vanos Noise Repair
BMW 330i Vanos Noise Repair Project to fix the rattle noise from vanos cylinders





BMW PCV Replacement (Breather System, Throttle Body, Idle Control Valve, Dip Stick) FCP Euro
http://www.fcpeuro.com/BMW-parts/ ► We're back with Gareth Foley to walk you through a complete PCV system replacement. We also pull out many other components such as the throttle body & gasket, disa valve, mass airflow sensor, dipstick gasket, idle control valve, and others on an M52TU motor. Give us a call at 1-877-634-0063 or leave a comment if you have any questions, and don't forget to subscribe! BMW PCV Breather System Kit (M54) - Genuine/ Meyle/ CRP M54PCVOE http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-pcv-breather-system-kit-m54-genuine-mey le-m54pcvoe BMW Throttle Body (E36 E39 E46) - Hella 13541433414 http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-throttle-body-e36-e39-e46-hella-1354143 3414 BMW Idle Control Valve (ICV) - Bosch 0280140545 http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-idle-control-valve-icv-oem-0280140545 Volvo PCV Breather System Replacement (850 turbo) FCP Euro http://youtu.be/otzkZ_f3Y3s BMW Oil Dipstick Seal - CRP 11431740045 http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-oil-dipstick-seal-11431740045





BMW Valve Cover and Spark Plug Replacement M54 Engine Part 1
Valve cover replacement procedure and spark plug replacemet procedure with tips on how to ensure a good installation. Also steps on replacing spark plugs and ignition coils.





Crankcase Vent Valve Issue, BMW 2004 E46
Burning the oil out after cleaning the spark plugs. Time to change the oil separator. BMW sells a kit to replace their defective valve/separator design. Update: No problems after CCV replacement Background: CCV fails, allowing oil into the engine cylinders and coating the spark plugs, causing the engine to flood and not start. To be sure this is your issue, pull a plug and see if its covered in oil, if so pull them all and clean them with de-greaser. I made the video to see what would happen on the first start since the cylinders were coated in oil still. Just to be clear, this smoke only happened for a few minutes after I cleaned and replaced the oil covered spark plugs. After that, the car was back to running clean even with the bad CCV. The reason to replace the CCV valve is so you don't have the oil flood again.





BMW Common Air Leak Locations M52TU M54 Mixture Too Lean
BMW Common Air Leak Locations on an M52TU or M54 engine. This would apply to many models like the E46 3 series, E39 5 Series, X3 E83, and X5 E53.





What Happens When You Don't Change Your Oil Part 1
This is part 1 of what happens when you do not change your oil. This car is only 3 years old and has 135k miles on it.





BMW 330(e46) Тест-драйв.Anton Avtoman.
http://vk.com/antonavtoman Добавляйтесь в друзья!) http://www.facebook.com/anton.vorotnikov Я в Инстаграме http://instagram.com/antonvorotnikov





BMW E46 3 series CCV - Oil Separator - Crank Case Ventilation Valve
Oil Separator, Crankcase Vent Valve, BMW 328i, 1999, E46 Cold Climate Version vs Regular





BMW X6 против Нивы 3D на бездорожье
Эта Нива против Mercedes G55AMG http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqLS2cSdsow http://vk.com/antonavtoman Добавляйтесь в друзья!) http://www.facebook.com/anton.vorotnikov





BEST of BMW M5 V10!! BURNOUT, DRIFTS, REVS!!
This video is a compilation of the best BMW M5 E60 V10 Exhaust sounds I have filmed in the last few years. In this video you can hear the start up sound from the V10 engine, some very loud revs, burnouts, drifts and mindblowing accelerations! Just listen to the V10 engine sound, it's amazing! Maybe the best V10 ever made? Don't forget to Like & Share this video! Follow me: http://www.Gumbal.tv 1st Channel: http://www.YouTube.com/GUMBAL 2nd Channel: http://www.YouTube.com/GUMBALTV 3rd Channel: http://www.YouTube.com/CarChannelClassic FACEBOOK: http://www.fb.com/GUMBALTV INSTAGRAM: http://www.instagram.com/GUMBALTV TWITTER: http://Twitter.com/GUMBALTV GOOGLE+: https://plus.google.com/+Gumbal Thanks you for watching my videos. All feedback on my videos are appreciated! Don't forget to like the video and subscribe to my channel. More videos coming up! - Hans





BMW M5 Street Drift! Giorgi Tevzadze(NeedForDrive.com) & Eric Davidovich(Smotra.ru) by zaRRubin
Georgian Adventure Giorgi Tevzadze - BMW M5(OOM-500) & White BMW 3-Series(V8, 4.4) Goga Toloraia - BMW M5(Red, TOL-600) All music 1. Method Man - Release Yo' Delf (The Prodigy Mix) 2. Shahmen - Mark (low bass) 3. The Go! Team - Apollo Throwdown (Star Slinger Remix) 4. Depth Charge - Sex, Sluts & Heaven (bordello mix) 5. Swollen Members - Reclaim The Throne 6. Delinquent Habits -- Return Of The Tres 7. Shahmen - Van Gogh's Crows 8. I Monster - Dayderam In Blue





Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?




Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

2006 Mazda 3 : 10.150 @ 134.000
Vincent Tiaga, Engine: Mazda I4, Supercharger: na Turbos: na Tires: M&H


2005 Mazda 3 SP23: 11.659 @ 128.790
Kurt Scott, Engine: 2.3L, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: GT3582


2008 Mazda 3 mazdaspeed3: 11.682 @ 117.170
NJSPEED3, Engine: 2.3L mzr/disi , Turbos: T3 HTA3586 .82ar


2008 Mazda 3 MPS: 12.350 @ 119.830
RE-ACTIONENGSPEED3, Engine: mzr, Turbos: k4 hybrid


2009 Mazda 3 Speed3: 12.737 @ 108.510
Daniel Lalonde, Engine: mzrdisi 2,3, Turbos: k04 Tires: Toyo RA1 235/40/17@16psi


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 12.793 @ 106.900
driver311, Tires: m@h 24.5x8.5x15 inch slicks


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed: 12.847 @ 111.635
Dave, Engine: 2.3L MRZ DISI TURBO, Turbos: stock Tires: pontenza


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 12.906 @ 111.140
Laloosh, Tires: STREET


2013 Mazda 3 MAZDASPEED 3: 12.988 @ 107.850
Michael Vincent Sarricchio, Engine: MZR DISI, Turbos: STOCK K04 Tires: FACTORY TIRE


2007 Mazda 3 Speed3: 13.190 @ 110.670
Kyle Hasenheyer, Engine: Stock engine, Turbos: Stock K04 turbo Tires: Venezia Crusade HP


2010 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.264 @ 108.230
Jimmy, Engine: Stock, Supercharger: NA Turbos: Stock Tires: G-force T/A KDW 2's


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring: 13.330 @ 107.980
James Rondepierre, Engine: 2.3L Direct Injected, Turbocharged, Intercooled, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: K04 STOCK Tires: HANKOOK VENTUS V12 EVO (STREET TIRES) (25PSI)


2007 Mazda 3 MazdaSpeed 3: 13.394 @ 104.330
Brandon,


2010 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.485 @ 108.840
Michael Loopy, Engine: 2.3 litre, Turbos: Stock K04


2007 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3 GT: 13.488 @ 103.220
Matt, Engine: 2.3 MZR turbo, Supercharger: n/a Turbos: stock Tires: 245/50/16 Nitto NT555 Extreme Drag's for track onl


2008 Mazda 3 mazdaspeed3: 13.555 @ 103.430
mike speed, Engine: stock, Turbos: stock Tires: winter tire front


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed 3: 13.565 @ 104.700
Darryn Nine, Engine: 2.3L Turbo, Turbos: Stock K04 Tires: 225/45/18 Achilles ATR Sport


2011 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed: 13.572 @ 106.990
Justin, Engine: 2.3 DISI, Turbos: K04


2009 Mazda 3 Speed 3: 13.714 @ 102.430
zack, Engine: intake, BOV, Supercharger: n/a Turbos: stock Tires: stock


2008 Mazda 3 Mazdaspeed3: 13.736 @ 102.340
BLKSp33d3, Engine: 2.3L DISI Turbo, Turbos: Stock KO4


 


©2015 DragTimes - Disclaimer - Contact Us