Volvo Engine head porting / port matching prep work !
Music : Mr oizo and Gaspard Augé "tricyle express"
Step two in the project :
Gasket matching is a good way to improve the flow in your head (engine
heads only) and to avoid the bad turbulences where they are not supposed to
be : between parts.
It's the first step in your porting job that you should think about ,and do
with your brain and hands.
The castings patterns are often quite "bad quality" (or i should say the
consequence of the application of a mass production process ) and it's the
way to start this kind of job.
Volvo 740 valve adjustment
This car and it's and owner are very special to me. Back in the day, they
called this car a 7 passenger Ferarri. I remember the funny Volvo TV ad's
comparing both cars. It is a 1988 turbo
Volvo 740 2.3 liter 4 cylinder with mechanical shim and bucket valve
adjustment discs. Very simular to the older 1.6 liter VW water cooled
engines like the Rabbit and Scirocco. This Volvo has 272k miles on the
clock, 155k miles on a rebuilt engine and rebuilt head without any valve
adjustments. I rebuilt the entire engine in 2003. Recently the idle quality
became rough and spark plugs started to foul when the two front cylinders
valve seat and valve wear absorbed the valve lash clearances to almost
nothing. This car belongs to a very special client. She'll never know how
many hours I have invested in keeping this turbo Brick going.
Adding a sick cone filter and straight exaust tip to my volvo 940 (MAAAADDDDD!!!)
Stock volvo 940s come with an Exhaust
tip that is shaped like an s. I have no clue why volvo put this on the car
as it is more restrictive then a straight tip, uses more metal then a
straight tip(weight added and cost), it sounds gay and looks even worse. I
was left with no other choice then to remove that thang and put a straight
pipe and tip on which I got at autozone. Well I was there I bought a
specture cone filter because my stock filter was dirty and I heard a cone
filter can give you a slight power increase and the sound better.
This car currently is still slow as shit but has a bumpin sound system with
a DC audio lvl4 12" subwoofer powered by a rockford fosgate t1000-1bdcp and
rockford fosgate mids and highs all being powered by a rockford fosgate
MGB Cylinder Head Skim
Anthony at CK Motor engineers in High Wycombe skims the head of our Project
A previous reconditioner had skimmed the head and block out of true, so one
side of each was higher than the other. Anthony corrected this on the CKM
lathe by skillfully setting the lathe bed up after numerous checks and
a problem with my head?
yes ok, i admit it, i broke it. but it is only the one valve. atleast you
get to have a look at the engine as its been torn down a bit, i have got
lost of clean shiny and painted bits to go on and make it lovely
Testing for Leaking/Bent Valves
--Please Read-- :)
Some of the best advice I can offer you about fixing your car is to search
for an online forum related to your car, or even for your specific engine.
If you have a popular car or engine, this can be an amazing tool in
diagnosing and fixing cars yourself!
1. Get kerosene, gasoline, or break cleaner.
2. Tilt head on its side, with the ports of the valves you're testing
pointing up and exposed.
3. Fill the intake or Exhaust ports
with the liquid you chose, make sure to use enough liquid to cover the back
of the valve head completely inside the port.
4. Look at the valve surface in the combustion chamber for leakage. (Let it
sit for several minutes)
5. If there is a leak, you could have a bent valve or just a bad seal of
the valve to the head. You might have to replace the valve, or just use
some lapping compound to lap the valve/seat to resurface.
6. Repeat for the other side if you wish.
7. This is a great time to replace valve seals if you have noticed they are
worn too much.
8. If you have any questions, please post them here and I'll try to answer
You just tilt the head on one side or the other depending whether you want
to test the intake or Exhaust valves.
I'm testing the intake valves in this video. I did this way because I
didn't have the leakdown test equipment, but also because I wanted to
replace my head gasket anyway. I wouldn't say this is the best way to test
initially if you suspect leaking or bent valves because it requires you
remove the head. Try just a regular leakdown test first. But if you're
taking it off anyway it's pretty nifty and doesn't require the leakdown
test tools. There are several methods to do this, this is just the one I
chose in my situation.
Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem.
In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the
valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the
valves in to make a better seal.
Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for
pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and
perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service
manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in
your service manual is in this video.
I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video.
It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it
gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for
answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you
chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around
while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If
it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or
missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports.
Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself,
never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They
will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average