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VOLVO 940 VALVE REPAIR.mpg

cleaning and regrounding valves on a volvo 940 2 litre gasoline model


 


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Testing for Leaking/Bent Valves
--Please Read-- :) Some of the best advice I can offer you about fixing your car is to search for an online forum related to your car, or even for your specific engine. If you have a popular car or engine, this can be an amazing tool in diagnosing and fixing cars yourself! -------------------------------------------------------------- Directions 1. Get kerosene, gasoline, or break cleaner. 2. Tilt head on its side, with the ports of the valves you're testing pointing up and exposed. 3. Fill the intake or Exhaust ports with the liquid you chose, make sure to use enough liquid to cover the back of the valve head completely inside the port. 4. Look at the valve surface in the combustion chamber for leakage. (Let it sit for several minutes) 5. If there is a leak, you could have a bent valve or just a bad seal of the valve to the head. You might have to replace the valve, or just use some lapping compound to lap the valve/seat to resurface. 6. Repeat for the other side if you wish. 7. This is a great time to replace valve seals if you have noticed they are worn too much. 8. If you have any questions, please post them here and I'll try to answer them quickly. -------------------------------------------------------------- You just tilt the head on one side or the other depending whether you want to test the intake or Exhaust valves. I'm testing the intake valves in this video. I did this way because I didn't have the leakdown test equipment, but also because I wanted to replace my head gasket anyway. I wouldn't say this is the best way to test initially if you suspect leaking or bent valves because it requires you remove the head. Try just a regular leakdown test first. But if you're taking it off anyway it's pretty nifty and doesn't require the leakdown test tools. There are several methods to do this, this is just the one I chose in my situation.





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Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem. In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the valves in to make a better seal. Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in your service manual is in this video. I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video. It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports. Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself, never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average gearhead's garage.





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Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

1993 Volvo 940 : 13.065 @ 104.150
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1992 Volvo 940 Turbo: 13.200 @ 101.980
John Nobinger, Engine: 2.3L 4 cylinder, Supercharger: None Turbos: Mitsubishi 15g Tires: 225/50/R16 Hankook


1995 Volvo 940 Turbo: 14.008 @ 100.300
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1995 Volvo 940 Turbo: 14.120 @ 98.730
Sean Williams, Engine: Volvo Redblock (2.3L SOHC 8V L4), 200k miles, Turbos: TD04HL-15G Tires: 205/55/15 Warrior El Cheapos


1992 Volvo 940 Turbo: 15.600 @ 88.730
Matt Lipa, Engine: Stock 2.3L I-4, Turbos: Stock Mitsubishi 15-g


 


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