Ford Aerostar Actuator Rod Repair

Shows how to remove a steering wheel and replace an actuator rod on a 1996 Ford Aerostar AWD XLT. This is an intense repair and it is important to have all required tools before starting otherwise you can easily get stuck and require a tow truck and a mechanic to complete the repair process. If your vehicle won't turn off (turned on, but now turning the key is doing nothing) and you have a Ford (I can't say all Ford owners will be able to use this advice) then pull the ignition switch out (first thing shown on the video is the ignition switch hanging right below the air bag power connector) and pull that metal pin sticking up towards you. This will turn off your vehicle.

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Ignition Switch Actuator Pin Repair Installation Video
Ignition Switch Actuator Pin Repair Installation Video demonstrated on a PT Cruiser. The procedure is very similar on Wranger, Liberty and Neon for this part. Part Number 924-704.

Ford Ignition Switch Actuator (Found in 1992-2014 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury Cars and Trucks)
Mustang, Aerostar, Bronco, Crown Victoria, Ford E150, E250, E350, E450, E550, Econoline, Lincoln Town Car, Continental, Navigator, Mercury Cougar, Grand Marquis, Mountaineer, Excursion, Expedition, Explorers, Ford F150, F250, F350, F450 (((Example vehicles based model year and part number search))) PLEASE REMEMBER TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING THIS REPAIR! Haynes manual says one minute, most people I talk to say 30 minutes, I say the longer the better :-) Parts needed to fix this problem "Ignition Actuator (upper) F2DZ-3E723-A and (lower) FODZ-3E715-A" The steering column I'm repairing is in a 2000 Mustang GT. If your column is different but you use the same part numbers as above then the install will be very similar. (Personal Note) The upper actuator pin broke because it could not push the lower actuator through the column. To replace just the upper will probably mean you have to do this job again in the future :-D states that "This white plastic ignition actuator gear with teeth often breaks preventing you from starting or shutting off the vehicle with the ignition key. The ignition rack actuator failure is often misdiagnosed as a bad lock or ignition switch problem. The steel pin falls out of place and will not pull the lower rack and switch. Reinserting the pin only delays the inevitable --- the need to replace the rack gear (it will fall out again)" ( ( ( SHORTCUTS: ) ) ) Quick check to see if this is your problem. Remove covers from around steering column and remove the ignition box from under steering column. Then check lower actuator connection to upper actuator 00:18 How to get it home without a tow truck Removing Lower Plastic Dash Cover 01:23 Removing Lower Steel Dash Cover 03:08 Removing Steering Column Covers 03:55 Removing Ignition Switch Tumbler 04:47 Removing The Tilt Steering Lever 06:13 Removing the RFID Anti-theft Device 06:40 Removing the Ignition Box Under the Steering Column 07:50 Removing ? ? Buzzer/Chime Wire ? ? 08:40 Unpluging Clock Spring / Air Bag / .... 08:50 Removing Air Bag 11:08 Removing Turn Signal Switch 12:54 Removing Steering Wheel Screw 14:23 Unpluging Cruise Control & Horn from Clock Spring 15:04 Pulling the Steering Wheel 15:37 ((Repairing Stripped Threads)) Removing Clock Spring 21:20 Removing Cancel Cam and Upper Steering Column Retainer 22:56 Removing Upper Housing Pivot Bolts, Shift Tube Spring and Steering Column Tolerance Bearing Ring 25:17 Removing the Upper Lock Cylinder Housing 29:20 Removing Ignition/Shifter Interlock Cable 30:34 Removing Lower Coupler and Bearing Retainer 31:29 Removing Lower Steering Housing 32:39 Removing Lower Bearing Retainer 33:22 Removing Lower Actuator 33:59 Making Tool to Remove Upper Lock Cylinder Retainer (GREEN) 34:23 Removing Upper Lock Cylinder Retainer (GREEN) and Actuator 35:02 Lubricating with Lithium Grease and Upper Actuator Install 36:10 Thrush Washer Alignment and (GREEN) Retainer Install 37:37 Installing Lower Actuator and Lubricating 39:38 (((Note: DON'T FORGET TO GREASE THE PIVOT BOLT HOLES TOO!))) Installing Lower Bearing Retainer 42:26 Assembling Upper and Lower Housings Together 42:58 Aligning Upper Actuator with the Key Tumbler 49:15 Column Install in Car 52:24 BE SURE TO UNLOCK THE IGNITION SWITCH! 54:31 Installing Lower Coupler and Bearing Spring 55:10 Installing Ignition/Shifter Interlock Cable 56:24 Proper Location of Turn Signal Harness 57:24 Arranging Harness Plugs and Hand Tighten Rear Nuts 58:15 Installing Tilt Steering Spring 58:54 Install of Tilt Steering Pivot Bolts 1:00:57 Tightening All Column Mounting Nuts 1:04:31 Installing Upper Housing Bearing Retainer and Lubricating 1:05:37 HOW I GOT THE RETAINING RING ON ! 1:08:36 Installing Cancel Cam / Clock Spring / Harness Plugs / RFID / Blinkers 1:09:49 Installing Ignition Box 1:14:05 Installing Column Covers 1:16:15 Lubricate Install Key Tumbler 1:18:23 Install Steering Wheel / Airbag / Tilt Steering Arm 1:18:54 Connected Battery Testing 1:22:23 Installing Lower Dash Covers 1:24:43 Helpful Links: ition-switch.html

Spark Plugs on a 4.0 1996 Ford Aerostar Van
Ford Aerostar repair video showing how to change spark plugs on a 4.0 1996 Ford Aerostar van. For more repair videos, see .

My 93 Ford Aerostar Starts Up After A 7 Year Sleep
To all you Jackasses out there, Read this first. Starting it to take it with me when my house gets sold once the water damage is repaired. As I was trying to rock it out of the ground it because it sunk in over the years I did a small burnout with it in the dirt. By the way, doing a burnout with the door open like that. Bad idea, as you can see that I smoked my own ass out. lol This van has served me well. My family took me and my brother on road trips with it and then I took it on my own road trips when I was using it everyday. I parked it in my backyard by my storage unit in 2007 and it hasn't ran or moved since until 1-15-2014. The reason why I parked it was because the overdrive goes on and off until it reaches 70 mph. That and I have to add a quart of oil to the engine before reaching 3,000 miles on an oil change. The AC compressor went out. I put a new one in and it only lasted a year. I just don't want to put any money in it anymore. Besides, it's a pain in the ass to work on and there are many things that is wrong with it. But it survived my mother over heating it in it's early life before I owned it. The engine is worn out because of it over heating from my mother. It has 271,000 miles on it and I didn't think that it was going to start after sitting for so long with seven year old gas in the tank. But you can see the look on my face in the video that I was impressed that it did. Just by putting a battery in it and getting the starter to loosen up and finally turn the engine over. The reason why I broke the passenger side window is because the door was stuck shut and I was trying to get it open. Why did I park it instead of getting rid of it? Well original I was saving it to take it to Dave's Farm and finish what ever life it had left in it over there. But now I have a new idea. I'm going to take it to a Demolition Derby and have fun with it before junking it. It had a good life and it ran it's course. It served me well, and now we party.