This is the rebuild of my 1979 ford F250 which I am the soul owener I bought the truck new in 79 it's original colors are candy apple red and wimbildon white. The blue ford in the vidio is a donor truck, all that is beening used is the frame. All the work so far is done mainly by me, except the sandblasting and painting of the frame. Iam only at the rolling chassie stage as of now, but be patient more to come , and by the way FORD stands for FOR ONLY REAL DRIVERS. BE cool. Ps yes it is only 2 wheel drive, but it has never let me down. There is another vidio called The rebirth. wmv, which'.s shows the complete rolling chassis . Please Comment
Reasonable DIY rust repair on a vehicle subframe, unibody, or frame.
Repairing a subframe by cutting out the rust, welding patches, then
Although this subframe is from a Saturn S-Series car this information is
univeral for all subframes across various vehicle brands. This subframe
was from a rusted out vehicle that I purchased for the engine. Upon
examination I found that my 2nd subframe (replaced 5 years prior) was
rusting out AGAIN. So this one looked decent, I decided to clean and paint
it. Sandblasting revealed 2 minor rust spots, both on the drivers side.
In this video you will see me cleaning the frame, cutting out the rust, and
welding in patches then painting the subframe with a rugged coating of
Rustoleum truck bed liner.
Some subframes can be repaired on the vehicles while extensive damage may
require removal. The reason is that it may be hard to reliably access
certain areas for a quality repair. Subframe failure can result in loss of
control, very dangerous. If you discover sub frame damage you should not
drive the vehicle unit it is replaced or repaired.
Some people say that sub frames or engine cradles should not be repaired at
all but I see no reason why minor rust like the one shown in this video
cannot be patched with quality welds and material. I used scrap metal
that's strength exceeded the original material. If your subframe is as bad
as the picture in the beginning of this video then I don't feel it should
The first time I did a subframe I had no prior experience and it took me a
weekend. Mostly dealing with rusty and broken components.
Sub frame removal should be similar for most cars but will vary a bit.
Here is the general procedure.
1. Jack up the front end, secure it behind the subframe on jackstands or
something secure so it won't fall. I typically also shove the wheels under
the car for extra insurance in case the car falls it will land on the
wheels hopefully saving anyone underneath.
2. Support the engine & transmission (you can lay lumber across your
fenders and chain to it). I used a chainfall from the ceiling of my
See photo here: http://mainejunker.com/dosumpthin/saturn/pics/satchain.jpg
3. Support any other items (Probably just your radiator) with ropes,
bungee's, or zip ties. Get creative.
3. Disconnect everything from the subframe (engine & transmission mounts,
control arms, steering rack, brake lines, sway bar, etc.)
4. Drop the subframe out. Installation is the opposite.
NOTES: Pre-soak rusty bolts & be prepared to replace any old rusty Exhaust parts that may break. I have found
that old Exhaust systems, once
disturbed, tend to have issues.
The large subframe to body bolts can be a chore. They are often retained
by captive nuts in the frame which often break free if they are old and
rusted. Pre-soak these heavily with good penetrating oil like PB Blaster,
days ahead of time, and repeatedly. Sometimes to avoid breaking the nuts a
high speed high power pneumatic impact wrench is the best option (fast &
furious). If the captive nuts break do free and spin then you have some
You may need to drill a hole to access it of there are no holes nearby:
1. Tack weld it in place
2. Wedge something in next to to keep it from spinning
3. put a wrench on it if you reach it
4. Cut the bolt off (torch or saw) then shove the remains up into the frame
and install new nut.
I also highly suggest joining a forum specific to your vehicle for specific
To see the horrible condition of the car this came off of:
Saving a rusting oil pan:
Here is some info on the tools I am using:
Harbor freight model 68992 40 lb sandblaster like the one I used:
Really cheap Harbor Freight model 95793 $20 sandblaster
The Dustless Blasting Difference
MMLJ, Inc Has been manufacturing pressure vessels since 1941. The Dustless
Blasting equipment overcomes the challenges of traditional dry abrasive
blasting. No Sanding, No Warping, No Rust and NO DUST. The Dustless
Blasting process can be used anywhere from a car port or driveway, to the
inside of a body shop strip a car anywhere in under 2 hrs for less than