10 Second @ 124 MPH Drag Race Dodge Dakota in car video
10.9 sec @ 124 mph at Los Angeles County Raceway (now closed). 1988 Dodge Dakota tube frame car, 452 BB Mopar, Torqueflite trans, 5500 stall converter, Griner brake, 4.88 Dana 60, 14x32" tires. 2900 lbs w/o driver. Video camera attached to roll bar inside cab. Truck is sliding around a bit during run due to sand on track. Video shot 5/06, as rock quarry was getting closer to track, blowing sand on track. Track closed 7/07. Two step at 3000 rpm, 5500 stall converter, shift at 6200 rpm, through traps at 6200 rpm. Truck was built for 10.90 class, runs low 10's
10 second 68 Firebird Sacramento Raceway 1987
This 68 Firebird was my first car purchased when I was 17 in 1977. The car
is currently undergoing a frame-off restoration.
At the time this video was taken in 1987 it was powered by a 455 Pontiac
The best ¼ mile performance was an ET of 10.87 and a MPH of 124.83 WITHOUT
the aid Nitrous oxide.
The heads are ported factory cast iron D-Ports cast# 48.
Crankshaft is factory 455
Rods are factory 73/74 455 Super-Duty
Camshaft is a Cam Dynamics solid flat-tappet with .618/.644" lift (1.65
rockers) 265/275 @.050 duration
Advertised duration is 312/322 int/exh
Pistons are Ross flat-tops yielding 12:1 compression ratio with the 69cc
Carburetion is 2 660cfm Holley center squirters mounted on a Doug
Nash/Warrior tunnel-ram manifold.
The differential is a Dana 60 with a 4.10 ratio gear set
11 second Dakota R/T ... 2007
This video was shot at Atco, NJ 11/16/07. It was my best pass at the time.
I have since run in the 10s several times. The video will be up soon.
This truck is completely street legal, is still running the stock short
block, and even passes local emissions testing.
700 HP 4-SPEED 70 PLYMOUTH DUSTER in car camera 2
this is a video i took inside my dad steve clukey's 70 plymouth duster at
the north american nationals at newengland dragway in new hampshire 2008.
the car spins bad off the line he pedals the car and continues on the run.
Dodge Dakota Coolant Leak Repair - Including Bypass Hose, Thermostat, Water Pump, etc.
To get to what turned out to be a Thermostat leak we had to remove the
The Serpentine belt, the fan, the Air Conditioning Compressor, the
Alternator and the A/C and Alternator Bracket.
This way you can easily access the bypass hose, the thermostat housing, and
the upper heater hose (or otherwise called the heater to engine hose).
This also gives you free access to the water pump if you were going to
replace it. This is actually the easiest way to access the water pump as
opposed to the way the service manual describes removing it (without
removing the A/C and Alternator bracket).
However, after doing the job we discovered a second leak on the lower
heater hose (or the heater to water pump return hose). Which also needed
to be corrected.