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MagnaFlow Muffler Install - 1991 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup - etrailer.com

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-1991-chevy-S10-MF10784-MF11226.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1991 Chevrolet S-10 we are going to be installing part number MF10784 and part number MF11226. This is going to be a little different from normal applications because we are actually doing a little bit of custom work. We are actually going to be removing the entire Exhaust and replacing it with a MagnaFlow Exhaust cut out and a MagnaFlow wide open muffler. The first steps we are going to show you is how to remove the complete Exhaust and what we are going to have to do is remove it from the hangers and I will show you those locations right now. Before we remove everything we want to put a strap to hold up your Exhaust so it does not fall when you are removing the bolts and mounts. 00:38 The first location we are actually going to remove is going to be the rear most bracket here. That is going to be these two bolts right here. We went ahead and sprayed them down with some lubricant to help get the bolts off since this is an older truck. The second Exhaust mount that we are going to be removing is going to be the one at the back of the muffler which is going to be located here. It is also going to be two bolts holding it into the frame. After we remove the Exhaust mounts your Exhaust will be free hanging on that strap and then we are going to be removing these two bolts right here which will remove the Exhaust from here back and then we will start applying our applications. 01:15 We are going to get started on removing the Exhaust brackets. I just removed one, the other one was kind of rusted on there but we can actually just slide it back over. Then when we remove the Exhaust this will just slide off so we do not need to take out this other bolt. So now we are going to remove the Exhaust system. As you can see we are going to actually take the Sawzall off and cut it off right here. Since this is the factory Exhaust it is all rusted up and there is no way we are going to be able to slide it off so we are just going to cut right at the edge where the old Exhaust is going to be removed. As you can see we went ahead and put a second bearing strap so that when we finish cutting our Exhaust over here that it will not fall. 01:57 As you can see we have it off now so we are just going to maneuver it around our rear end and slide it up over the top of it. It would probably be best to have a second set of hands to help you as well in maneuvering. On this Exhaust cut out here they are provided with two band clamps but since we widened our diameter here they do not fit over the pipe any more so we went ahead and bought some after market pipe brackets. As you can see it just slides over like that and you will be provided those in your kit. On this application we are using these. We will put this on first and we will show you how to do that. Just take the Exhaust cut out and just slide it over our existing pipe and then we are going to take our bracket and slide it up over it and then we can tighten it down on to our muffler to make it a good seal tight. 02:50 Now we are going to put our MagnaFlow Exhaust in to place. You can put it whichever way you want that will best fit your needs. That is how you install this muffler and Exhaust cut out here. The way we did it, we are actually going to need to make an Exhaust hanger for it and you can probably just take your vehicle to any muffler shop and they can get one fabricated for you. It should not cost you that much. Now that we have it all installed we are going to show you a little bit of what it sounds like with the Exhaust. Then we are going to remove the Exhaust cut out and let you hear the sound of that as well. That concludes the installation for part numbers MF10784 and part number MF11226.


 


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Reese 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch 16,000 lbs Review - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Reese-5th-Wheel-Assembly-RP30047.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to assemble part number RP30047 from Reese. This is a 16K fifth wheel hitch. To start off, we are going to take the legs and assemble them on our rails here that are pre-existing on the truck. Then we will take our cross bar assembly that goes across, this will simply sit over the top, you can adjust it up and down as you need to match the height of your trailer. Then slide these bolts from the inside, out. :37 We will put the lock nuts on the outside here. At this point we will tighten down our bolts. Now that we have our legs and cross brace installed, you want to check if you can take the hitch in and out of the rails easily. If you can, that is a good sign and you can put the pins in and assemble the rest of the hitch. We will now install the pins and clips. 1:22 We are going to install our bumpers now. They are going to go on the front side of the hitch. The pin head screw goes through the center of the rubber bumper and a speed nut goes on the bottom. We will take the screw and push it through the bumper, take a screw driver and push it in, it in place, and take the speed nut and snug it up and you are good to go. Our center section that pivots will go in next. It will be held in place by this pin right here. It will get pushed in just like that, and it will have a clip on the other side to hold it in place. Lets go ahead and it in and tap the pin in with a rubber mallet. Then install our safety pin. Next we will go ahead and install our handle with a latch. Right here you want to put your cotter pin and then bend one half over and we should be good. The grip will be slid on the handle, and that will finish our assembly. 2:52 We will show you how the latch works for a king pin on the trailer. Take the handle and pull out, and move it to one side, usually the back, it will catch in the dent here, and lock the jaws open. Back your trailer into it and then pull on your handle here, pull a little bit, and it will lock back into place. Once you have your king pin secured, put the safety latch over the handle here and you could also use a padlock or safety pin to keep everything latched together. Once this is down, you cannot pull the handle out. The range of movement we will show next. It will rock from side to side and also from front to rear. With that, that will finish our assembly of part number RP30047 from Reese.





Magnaflow Exhaust Installation - 2005 Infiniti G35 - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-Exhaust-2005-infinti-g35-coupe.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to be installing Magnaflow Performance Exhaust system part number 16641on a 2005 Infiniti G35 Coupe. Before we get started we want to go ahead and disconnect the negative terminal off the battery. The battery is located behind this panel here on the upper left-hand side of the engine compartment. This going to allow the computer to reset so when we get the new Exhaust system on it will reconfigure itself to the new Exhaust. And we will go underneath the vehicle and start disconnecting the old Exhaust. This is a Cat Black system so we will be moving the Exhaust tips all the way up to the disconnect point behind the catalytic converter. So we need to unbolt the flange here from these two bolts and we are also going to need to remove the Exhaust off all its hangers as well. The rubber hangers we are going to be using are located right here, right here, right here, and right here. Using a spray lubricant on the rubber hangers will make the removal of those a lot easier. You are going to want to save the rubber hangers because we will be reusing those for the re-installation. And then also here just forward of the main Exhaust you want to disconnect the ground wire off of the post here. We can go ahead and start disassembling it. I defiantly recommend spraying down all the bolts first with a lubricant like a WD40 because these will likely be rusted. This will help ease the removal of the nuts. Next we are going to go to the flange just rear of the Exhaust and go ahead and remove the ground strap. Okay now we will remove the Exhaust from all of the hangers. With all the rubber hangers removed you can go ahead and take the Exhaust system out. The first piece we are going to go ahead and put in place is the one nearest the catalytic converter. Just going to be bolted to the flange, you want to make sure you have the gasket in place here. We do want to make sure the slight bend here goes toward the driver side. We want to leave everything fairly loose for the time being until we get it all installed and then we can tighten it all down. Okay next we are going to put the second inlet piece in. You want the side with the rubber hanger to be facing the drivers side, it is going to attach right here. Then we are going to take one of the clamps that are provided with the installation kit and slide it over the inlet tube here over the end with the notches cut out of it. Go ahead and take that, and slide it over, slide it all the way in. All right go ahead and attach it to the rubber hanger here. Then we slide the clamp over and again we are just going to loosely install it for the time being. What I am going to do is manipulate it in and out of the inlet tube until that rubber hanger is facing straight up and down. Before I put the muffler on I am actually going to pre-install the clamp over this inlet tube because once the muffler is in place it is going to be tough to manipulate around there. Then we are going to go ahead and install the muffler itself. In preparation I went ahead and in the area where the muffler goes I went ahead and put all of the the rubber hangers back on the vehicle itself. Now that I have the muffler adjusted and properly into place I can go ahead and install our other clamp. I am going to go ahead and install with the threads on the upper side on each of them. And with that loosely installed I can go ahead and start tightening everything down. When tightening down you want to start with the forward most bolts and work your way rearward. Last thing you want to do is go ahead and re-secure our grounding strap. To do that we are just going to be using the protruding threads from our clamp here at the rear most attaching point. Just slide that over and re-install it with the lock nut that is provided with the installation kit. With the grounding strap on again you just want to make sure all of our hangers are secure and our installation will be complete. This Exhaust system was designed to make the car sound louder. Here is how it sounded before. And here is how it sounds now. And that will conclude the installation of part number 16641 on a 2005 Infiniti G35 Coupe.





Trailer Hitch Installation - 2004 Honda Pilot - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2004-honda-pilot-1.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2004 Honda Pilot we are gong to be installing Curt hitch part number 13328. We are underneath the vehicle, and we need to do a few things in preparation before we can get started installing our trailer hitch. The first thing we are going to do is lower our spare tire and get it out of the way. Next over here on the passenger side we need to go ahead and lower the Exhaust down, it will give us a little more working room. :21 There are three hangers here at the rear that are holding the Exhaust in position. Two here on the inboard side and one here on the outboard side. To lower the Exhaust off its hangers what we are going to do is take a spray lubricant, like a WD-40, and spray down the studs of t he Exhaust hanger. Then we can take either a pair of pliers or a pry bar and separate the rubber hanger from the stud. We want to repeat that for all three hangers, but before we remove them we want to make sure we put a support strap across the front Exhaust tube because when you remove the three hangers the Exhaust could fall and damage your system. :56 With the Exhaust lowered we are taking a look at the driver side frame rail. You can see over here we have a factory installed tow hook, we are going to need to remove this. There are three bolts holding it into position. Those are going to provide our three attaching points over here on the driver side frame rail. Over here on the passenger side we are going to be using the same three weld nuts, you can see there is nothing in position here, the weld nuts are exposed. And then we have two final attachment points here at the backside of the bumper. With our mounting holes pointed out, I am coming over to the passenger side of the vehicle where we had the exposed weld nuts on the frame. Any vehicle that has seen at least one winter is going to have some rust and road grime built up into these weld nuts. As well as the weld nuts in the center of the vehicle. If that is the case, you want to thoroughly clean those out before you attempt to put your bolts in. To do that, we are going to use a spray lubricant, like a WD-40. We just want to spray those threads down and take a wire brush and run that into the weld nuts a few times, you may need to do this a couple of times per weld nut. It is a good idea to do a test fit with your bolts before you put the hitch up in position. 2:10 Now that we have all the weld nuts thoroughly cleaned out, we can go ahead and put our hitch up in position. We just want to make sure over here on the passenger side we go up and over the Exhaust, into the passenger side weld nuts, as well as on the driver side weld nuts we are gong to be using the 12 millimeter bolts along with the conical tooth washers. At the center attaching point, at the back of the bumper we are going to be using the 10 millimeter bolts along with a conical tooth washer. If you notice when putting the bolts on the back side of the bumper that your tab here a little bit of flex to it, or you have a little bit of space here. That is okay because when you tighten these bolts down this tab will flex towards and mount flat with the bumper. Now that we have all our bolts tightened down we are going to go back through and torque them down. You want to check with the directions to verify the appropriate torque rating for each individual bolt. You can see now that I have the bolts here on the bumper torqued down that our hitch is now flat against the bumper. With the bolts torqued down we want to make sure we put our Exhaust back up on its hangers and our spare tire back up in position and our installation will be complete. 3:23 Now with our hitch installed we are going to give you a couple of final dimensions that will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to be approximately 16-3/8 inches. From the center of the hitch pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is going to be approximately 5-1/2 inches. This will conclude the installation of Curt hitch part number 13328 on this 2004 Honda Pilot.





Trailer Hitch Installation - 2010 Buick Enclave - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Hitch-Install-2010-Buick-Enclave.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2010 Buick Enclave we are going to be installing Draw-Tite hitch part number 75528. This installation will also apply to Hidden Hitch part number 87435. We are looking at the underside of the vehicle. On this Enclave you can see we have this fascia door covering. We want to remove that. There are two screws here on the bottom holding it in. Then we can just set it off to the side. :26 The next thing we want to do is go ahead and lower down our Exhaust to give us more room to gain access to the frame. This particular model has duel Exhaust so we are going to need to lower both sides down. There are two sets of hangers per side that we need to remove the Exhaust off of. To lower the Exhaust down off its hangers we need to take a spray lubricant, like a WD-40 and spray the studs down. Then we can take a pair of pliers or a pry bar and separate the two pieces. We will repeat that for the outboard side one as well. :56 We are going to repeat the same thing for the driver side Exhaust as well. Before we take those down off the hangers we want to go ahead and support the main cross tube of the Exhaust system because once we lower it off of both sides the system is going to want to fall if it is not properly supported it could damage it. With the Exhaust lowered we can go ahead and point out the mounting holes we are going to be using to install our trailer hitch. Starting over on the driver side, you can see we have two existing weld nuts here at the bottom of the frame. These are going to provide our two attaching points for the driver side. That is going to be the same on the passenger side as well. Into those weld nuts we are going to be mounting the 12 millimeter bolts along with the conical tooth washers. Moving on to the center of the vehicle we have two attaching points here as well just behind the fascia door that we had removed earlier. To use these mounting holes we are going to be using the handle nut assembly along with the 1/2 inch hex bolt and conical tooth washer. What we are going to do with the handle nut is feed it through the square hole and lay it inside the frame over the attaching hole. What we are going to do is take and bend it so it sits like so right over the hole. When we put the hitch up we will put our hex bolt into place. We want to do that for both of the holes. 2:07 Now that we have all the mounting holes pointed out we can put our hitch up into position. Before I put the hex bolt into the handle nut here, we do need to put a small spacer in between the hitch and the frame. Now that we have all the bolts into place and snugged down, we are going to go back through and torque each one of the bolts down. You want to check with the directions to verify the appropriate torque rating for each individual bolt. Once we have all the bolts torqued down we want to put the Exhaust back up on its hangers. Make sure we remove our safety strap when we are done. And then if you would like, you can take and bend the handle nuts up out of the way so they are not visible. Now our installation is complete. 3:24 Now that we have our hitch installed, we are going to give you a couple final installed dimensions, which will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to measure 17-3/4 inches. From the center of the pin hole to the clear the rear edge of the bumper is approximately 5 inches. This will conclude the installation of Draw-Tite hitch part number 75528 on a 2010 Buick Enclave.





Making A Muffler





Installing SLP Dual exhaust tips on 2008 Avalanche
SLP dual tip tailpipe installation on my 2008 Avalanche, I wanted to show how easy and sweet the dual tip assembly from SLP is. It replaces the resonator and tail pipe just past the rear axle. Not really any louder than the stock muffler, but looks way better than the lam factory setup. does sound a little deeper when idling but when cruzing I can't really notice any difference in sound, I am very happy and if you want to get rid of your ugly factory tail pipe I highly recommend installing this kit. V





Chevy Big Block Engine Starting
We just finished our new Chevy Big-Block engine, wich will soon find a home in our 1980 Camaro. It is just one of many BBC's that I have built. It is a "street friendly" 10:1 all forged, mechanical roller with too many goodies to list . It sounds crazy and I can't wait to feel the tire shreading performance.





We use our loud exhausts for a purpose
Nissan GTR's revving and popping in Central London.





Performance Muffler Upgrades [S2 Ep. 4-4]
In the world of hot rodding, when gear heads gather around and start discussing their projects, invariably the conversation drifts into speculation of what the smallest thing is that you can successfully put a V8 engine in. Well today on GEARZ, Stacey pretty much puts an end to that speculation by building a V8 powered BARSTOOL!! It's part go-cart... part garden tractor... part insane... and ALL hot rod. Which of course is what GEARZ is all about! If you like WILD.. then you don't want to miss this show! Then Stacey dives into some Muffler Tech to show you what kind of mufflers there are on the market, and give you some tips that might help you make the right decision when the time comes to stick some cool mufflers on your machine!





Solving Engine Performance Issues (Part 1) - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ See Part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAKwCzUE_9M Vacuum leaks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok+ Voltage leaks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-U9WqJfaJs Power Balance http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE Compression testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4 Leak down testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc&feature=relmfu I get a lot of questions via email and over at the forum about the steps to take when you encounter a performance issue like my Subaru's hesitation issue and I often feel like I sound like a broken record when I cover the basic steps that I cover when encountering a situation like that. My main point here is that if you have a performance problem and you're going to throw parts at the problem start with the basics before you to off and start replacing sensors that you suspect are a problem, if you don't have evidence of a faulty sensor then don't start there start with the simple tune up items and check for vacuum leaks and air leaks as I've shown here and I believe you'll have better results and save yourself some money in the process. In short the rule of KISS applies, Keep It Simple Stupid. If you have questions about your own engine performance issues head over to my website and either ask the search function or ask the forum, we'd be happy to help. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- Stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





dodge ram 1500 exhaust stacks magnaflow 4" race muffler
So I got pulled over last weak for being to loud so I decided to try a slightly bigger muffler. Its a magnaflow round race muffler # 14163. Now this is first start up and it still needs the 1200 mile break in so its pretty quiet. Ill make a new vid once its broken in. 2001 dodge ram 1500 5.2 5 speed 5" lift 4" magnaflow race muffler # 14163 4" stacks 3.5" magnaflow cat super swamper ssr's 33/14.5 r16 ebay cold air intake mickey thompson classic 2's





BEST of Start Up sounds!! More than 70 Exhaust Sounds!
To celebrate my 600th video, I have made this compilation: probably all the start up sounds from supercars I've recorded in the past years. It's the largest start-up sound compilation on YouTube right now! I have put them together in one video with more than 70 start up sounds! What's you favorite start up sound? Let me know by leaving a comment behind! Follow me: http://www.Gumbal.tv 1st Channel: http://www.YouTube.com/GUMBAL 2nd Channel: http://www.YouTube.com/GUMBALTV 3rd Channel: http://www.YouTube.com/CarChannelClassic FACEBOOK: http://www.fb.com/GUMBALTV INSTAGRAM: http://www.instagram.com/GUMBALTV TWITTER: http://Twitter.com/GUMBALTV GOOGLE+: https://plus.google.com/+Gumbal Thanks you for watching my videos. All feedback on my videos are appreciated! Don't forget to like the video and subscribe to my channel. More videos coming up! - Hans





Sound Testing Hushpower Pro Series Mufflers
These Hushpower Pro Series mufflers can be used on a wide variety of applications. During rigorous testing, they consistently delivered performance equal to or better than open pipe systems, while dramatically reducing sound levels across the rpm range. Hushpower Pro Series mufflers feature T409 stainless steel internal construction covered by an outer case manufactured from durable 18-gauge black aluminized steel. http://www.summitracing.com/redirect?banner=SocialYT1061





Flowmaster Muffler Comparison
A raw test of 7 different Flowmaster mufflers on one motor. The Motor - Small Block Chevy 406, 11:1 compression, Crane Solid Roller Camshaft, Brodix heads with 2.05- 1.60 titanium valves, Eagle 4340 Crank, Eagle H beam Rods, Manley Forged pistons, Victor Jr Intake manifold, 850 Holley DP, K&N air filter, Moroso 7 qt. pan, 1 7/8 headers, BE COOL radiator with dual 13 inch fans, MSD distributor, MSD coil and MSD 6AL box. Exhaust - Flowmaster 3 inch Scavenger Pipe





1998 Chevrolet Pickup Cat-Back System - Magnaflow dual in-dual out muffler
98 Chevy 5.7L 4x4 with a cat-back system. Magaflow muffer




Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?





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