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MagnaFlow Muffler Install - 1991 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup - etrailer.com

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-1991-chevy-S10-MF10784-MF11226.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1991 Chevrolet S-10 we are going to be installing part number MF10784 and part number MF11226. This is going to be a little different from normal applications because we are actually doing a little bit of custom work. We are actually going to be removing the entire Exhaust and replacing it with a MagnaFlow Exhaust cut out and a MagnaFlow wide open muffler. The first steps we are going to show you is how to remove the complete Exhaust and what we are going to have to do is remove it from the hangers and I will show you those locations right now. Before we remove everything we want to put a strap to hold up your Exhaust so it does not fall when you are removing the bolts and mounts. 00:38 The first location we are actually going to remove is going to be the rear most bracket here. That is going to be these two bolts right here. We went ahead and sprayed them down with some lubricant to help get the bolts off since this is an older truck. The second Exhaust mount that we are going to be removing is going to be the one at the back of the muffler which is going to be located here. It is also going to be two bolts holding it into the frame. After we remove the Exhaust mounts your Exhaust will be free hanging on that strap and then we are going to be removing these two bolts right here which will remove the Exhaust from here back and then we will start applying our applications. 01:15 We are going to get started on removing the Exhaust brackets. I just removed one, the other one was kind of rusted on there but we can actually just slide it back over. Then when we remove the Exhaust this will just slide off so we do not need to take out this other bolt. So now we are going to remove the Exhaust system. As you can see we are going to actually take the Sawzall off and cut it off right here. Since this is the factory Exhaust it is all rusted up and there is no way we are going to be able to slide it off so we are just going to cut right at the edge where the old Exhaust is going to be removed. As you can see we went ahead and put a second bearing strap so that when we finish cutting our Exhaust over here that it will not fall. 01:57 As you can see we have it off now so we are just going to maneuver it around our rear end and slide it up over the top of it. It would probably be best to have a second set of hands to help you as well in maneuvering. On this Exhaust cut out here they are provided with two band clamps but since we widened our diameter here they do not fit over the pipe any more so we went ahead and bought some after market pipe brackets. As you can see it just slides over like that and you will be provided those in your kit. On this application we are using these. We will put this on first and we will show you how to do that. Just take the Exhaust cut out and just slide it over our existing pipe and then we are going to take our bracket and slide it up over it and then we can tighten it down on to our muffler to make it a good seal tight. 02:50 Now we are going to put our MagnaFlow Exhaust in to place. You can put it whichever way you want that will best fit your needs. That is how you install this muffler and Exhaust cut out here. The way we did it, we are actually going to need to make an Exhaust hanger for it and you can probably just take your vehicle to any muffler shop and they can get one fabricated for you. It should not cost you that much. Now that we have it all installed we are going to show you a little bit of what it sounds like with the Exhaust. Then we are going to remove the Exhaust cut out and let you hear the sound of that as well. That concludes the installation for part numbers MF10784 and part number MF11226.


 


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MagnaFlow Exhaust System Installation - 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-Exhaust-2009-chevy-silverado-MF16568.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series extended cab short bed we are going to be installing MagnaFlow Exhaust system part number MF16568. We are underneath the vehicle and the first thing I have done is lowered the spare tire out of the way to give us some extra working room. We also want to disconnect the battery. What that is going to do is once we get the system installed we can reconnect it and it will actually reset the computer system so it does not bring up any trouble codes from the new system. The first step before we can install our Exhaust system is to of course remove the factory installed Exhaust. There are four Exhaust hangers that we are going to need to remove the Exhaust off of towards the more rear side of the Exhaust system. 00:39 To the catalytic converter there is a clamp attaching the Exhaust to the converter. We are going to need to loosen that clamp as well. That clamp is going to be reused so we do not want to damage it so set it off to the side. Also to ease in the removal of the factory installed system we are going to need to cut the pipe just rear of the muffler right before the main bend right above the axle. Cut somewhere right in here, that will allow us to take that piece off and then remove the forward section all in one piece. With the cut made and the rear tail pipe removed I am going to go up to the forward side and remove my clamp next. With the clamp loosened up go back through and remove the main Exhaust system off its other three hangers. 01:44 Now it is time to start installing our new system. We are going to start with the inlet tube into the catalytic converter and again we are going to be reusing the clamp that we removed in the previous step. You will notice there is a bend in the inlet tube coming over the cross member. Make sure the bend is going up. We do not want to fully clamp it down just yet. We want to wait until we get all of the pieces in position and then we will come back through and tighten everything down. We are going to tighten it up to hold it into place. Next we are going to put the muffler in to position. We are going to merge the two pieces together using the three inch clamp and it is going to merge up with the factory hanger. Then you need to attach it to the two factory hangers. We are going to start installing back to the tips. This model only had single Exhaust on it but we are putting a dual Exhaust system on it. So we are going to finish out on the passenger side where the factory pipe was and then we will come back through and finish off the driver side. 02:52





Reese 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch 16,000 lbs Review - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Reese-5th-Wheel-Assembly-RP30047.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to assemble part number RP30047 from Reese. This is a 16K fifth wheel hitch. To start off, we are going to take the legs and assemble them on our rails here that are pre-existing on the truck. Then we will take our cross bar assembly that goes across, this will simply sit over the top, you can adjust it up and down as you need to match the height of your trailer. Then slide these bolts from the inside, out. :37 We will put the lock nuts on the outside here. At this point we will tighten down our bolts. Now that we have our legs and cross brace installed, you want to check if you can take the hitch in and out of the rails easily. If you can, that is a good sign and you can put the pins in and assemble the rest of the hitch. We will now install the pins and clips. 1:22 We are going to install our bumpers now. They are going to go on the front side of the hitch. The pin head screw goes through the center of the rubber bumper and a speed nut goes on the bottom. We will take the screw and push it through the bumper, take a screw driver and push it in, it in place, and take the speed nut and snug it up and you are good to go. Our center section that pivots will go in next. It will be held in place by this pin right here. It will get pushed in just like that, and it will have a clip on the other side to hold it in place. Lets go ahead and it in and tap the pin in with a rubber mallet. Then install our safety pin. Next we will go ahead and install our handle with a latch. Right here you want to put your cotter pin and then bend one half over and we should be good. The grip will be slid on the handle, and that will finish our assembly. 2:52 We will show you how the latch works for a king pin on the trailer. Take the handle and pull out, and move it to one side, usually the back, it will catch in the dent here, and lock the jaws open. Back your trailer into it and then pull on your handle here, pull a little bit, and it will lock back into place. Once you have your king pin secured, put the safety latch over the handle here and you could also use a padlock or safety pin to keep everything latched together. Once this is down, you cannot pull the handle out. The range of movement we will show next. It will rock from side to side and also from front to rear. With that, that will finish our assembly of part number RP30047 from Reese.





MagnaFlow Exhaust Installation - 1996 Acura Integra - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Magnaflow-install-1996-acura-Integra.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1996 Acura Integra we are going to install MagnaFlow Exhaust part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance. First off we will give you a sound test of the original Exhaust on there. Then we can compare it to the new one once we have it installed. First we will show you what is going to get replaced in our Exhaust system. Basically this is what is called a Cat-back or from the catalytic converter on back to the tailpipe. This is our converter right here and at this flange point we are going to unbolt right here and from here on back is going to get removed from the vehicle. On the bolts themselves we sprayed down with some penetrate and let it sit for at least an hour or so. The nut on the top is going to be a different size nut also. Leave that alone for now. 00:50 If these break we do not really care because this is all getting replaced anyway. Get this apart. Next spray down the rubber hangers with some more lubricant and we will pry them off. We do not want to damage the rubber hangers because those are going to get reused. The same thing is going to happen again with the muffler. Now if these hangers are already damaged from normal wear and tear you probably want to just replace them and this is going to be the best time to do it now. Now we have got our Exhaust completely off. What we are going to do is take any leftover hangers that had stayed with the Exhaust and remove those and put them back into the factory locations. 01:35 We are going to start installing new parts working our way from front to rear. We are going to slide on a new part. We are going to reuse the original factory nuts. We are just going to start one and get it started and hold everything into place and then we will slide on the rubber hangers. We will run all of these bolts down evenly and then give them a final torque. Working with the next section is going to S curve. Install the clamp, slide it on, and slide this on to the resonator pipe that we just installed. This does not really have anything to support it but the other half so we are going to slide it on for now. The approximate location of the original. Install the muffler and tailpipe and slide that into place. We will hook these up to the rubber hangers by the bumper. Put the S pipe next to the tailpipe itself. There is a little gasket that will go on here. Slide it into position and run the bolts through. This is hardware that does come with the kit and install the flange nuts. 03:28 Position the pipes the way that we want it and make sure it is not rattling up against anything that we do not want it to. Then once we have it the way we want it we will snug down the connections. The last thing we will do is tighten down the band clamp and that requires a specific torque range that is provided in the instructions. With our Exhaust fully installed the only thing we need to do now is turn the engine on and see what we get for sound. At about 20 to 50 miles, you probably want to go back underneath the vehicle again and make sure all of the fasteners are still tight. That sounds pretty good. There you have it for part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust.





Trailer Hitch Installation - 2004 Honda Pilot - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-install-2004-honda-pilot-1.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2004 Honda Pilot we are gong to be installing Curt hitch part number 13328. We are underneath the vehicle, and we need to do a few things in preparation before we can get started installing our trailer hitch. The first thing we are going to do is lower our spare tire and get it out of the way. Next over here on the passenger side we need to go ahead and lower the Exhaust down, it will give us a little more working room. :21 There are three hangers here at the rear that are holding the Exhaust in position. Two here on the inboard side and one here on the outboard side. To lower the Exhaust off its hangers what we are going to do is take a spray lubricant, like a WD-40, and spray down the studs of t he Exhaust hanger. Then we can take either a pair of pliers or a pry bar and separate the rubber hanger from the stud. We want to repeat that for all three hangers, but before we remove them we want to make sure we put a support strap across the front Exhaust tube because when you remove the three hangers the Exhaust could fall and damage your system. :56 With the Exhaust lowered we are taking a look at the driver side frame rail. You can see over here we have a factory installed tow hook, we are going to need to remove this. There are three bolts holding it into position. Those are going to provide our three attaching points over here on the driver side frame rail. Over here on the passenger side we are going to be using the same three weld nuts, you can see there is nothing in position here, the weld nuts are exposed. And then we have two final attachment points here at the backside of the bumper. With our mounting holes pointed out, I am coming over to the passenger side of the vehicle where we had the exposed weld nuts on the frame. Any vehicle that has seen at least one winter is going to have some rust and road grime built up into these weld nuts. As well as the weld nuts in the center of the vehicle. If that is the case, you want to thoroughly clean those out before you attempt to put your bolts in. To do that, we are going to use a spray lubricant, like a WD-40. We just want to spray those threads down and take a wire brush and run that into the weld nuts a few times, you may need to do this a couple of times per weld nut. It is a good idea to do a test fit with your bolts before you put the hitch up in position. 2:10 Now that we have all the weld nuts thoroughly cleaned out, we can go ahead and put our hitch up in position. We just want to make sure over here on the passenger side we go up and over the Exhaust, into the passenger side weld nuts, as well as on the driver side weld nuts we are gong to be using the 12 millimeter bolts along with the conical tooth washers. At the center attaching point, at the back of the bumper we are going to be using the 10 millimeter bolts along with a conical tooth washer. If you notice when putting the bolts on the back side of the bumper that your tab here a little bit of flex to it, or you have a little bit of space here. That is okay because when you tighten these bolts down this tab will flex towards and mount flat with the bumper. Now that we have all our bolts tightened down we are going to go back through and torque them down. You want to check with the directions to verify the appropriate torque rating for each individual bolt. You can see now that I have the bolts here on the bumper torqued down that our hitch is now flat against the bumper. With the bolts torqued down we want to make sure we put our Exhaust back up on its hangers and our spare tire back up in position and our installation will be complete. 3:23 Now with our hitch installed we are going to give you a couple of final dimensions that will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little bit easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to be approximately 16-3/8 inches. From the center of the hitch pin hole to clear the rear edge of the bumper is going to be approximately 5-1/2 inches. This will conclude the installation of Curt hitch part number 13328 on this 2004 Honda Pilot.





Making A Muffler





Electric Exhaust Cutout 5.2 V8 ZJ Grand Cherokee LOUD!
DG Motors: 666c West Hoffman Ave. Lindenhurst, NY 11757 Phone: (631) 957-8464 Here at DG Motors we just installed a Race Ready Performance Electric Exhaust Cutout Stainless Steel No Welding Kit on our very own 1996 V8 Grand Cherokee Limited. This is for all you American Muscle lovers out there! With the flip of a switch our cameraman can choose when to produce pure music and be noticed or when to hang back with low rumble of the Flowmaster Super 44 Series Muffler. Installed before the muffler and after the cat, this cutout is noticeably louder and the Jeep is more responsive down low as well as up top. Stay tuned for more! Thank You Race Ready Performance!!! The no weld kit, everything stainless steel (clamps, y-pipe, turn-down tip, nuts and bolts) all shipped for $313 UPS Ground (took 4-5 days to ship)





2008 Mitsubishi Lancer ES [CVT] - Tsudo N1 Exhaust
There aren't many videos of the Tsudo N1 on a current gen Lancer, much less an installation video. So here ya go. There are NO other mods on this car. Everything is purely stock, except the Exhaust, of course. By the way, if you buy this Exhaust, you're probably going to have to do what I did and use a clamp or something to hold the Exhaust up, or else it'll probably end up falling off and you'll be dragging it down the road.





Sacramento Muffler Flowmaster vs Magnaflow choices for Ford Chevy Dodge
West Coast Muffler 7932 Auburn Blvd. Citrus Heights, CA 95610 916-728-4255 www.westcoastmuffler.com http://www.sacramentocatalyticconverter.com/ A car's Exhaust system plays a major role in controlling the hot gases exiting the motor. Like a musical instrument in the hands of a master musician, systems are tuned to the characteristics of a particular engine. Two of the most popular manufacturers are Flowmaster and Magnaflow. Both brands started in California and are similar to one another in their pursuit of higher flow, better durability and amazing performance tone. But each relies on completely different approaches to achieve the same results. Flowmaster Exhaust Systems The Benefits of a Flowmaster Exhaust System Flowmaster is legendary among hotrod purists and muscle car maniacs for rugged construction and powerful, race-inspired tones. Homegrown with pride, Flowmaster Exhaust systems are made right here in the United States from mandrel bent, aluminized or stainless steel tubing. Their Flowmaster American Thunder Exhausts and the Flowmaster Force II system use battle-tested chambered mufflers to maximize, you guessed it...the flow. Removing the racket, highly engineered baffles cancel excessive noise by bouncing sound waves into each other. As if that's not enough, an area of low pressure is created inside of the muffler to scavenge more Exhaust from the cylinders. What does this mean to you? It's locomotive power that doesn't anger the neighbors while they make breakfast. What's more, each muffler has staying power to match. With no packing to blow out over time, that amazing performance sound lasts the life of your vehicle. Best of all, each kit is custom made for an easy installation. Magnaflow Exhaust Systems The Benefits of a Magnaflow Exhaust System Magnaflow is quickly becoming the system of choice for a smooth, aggressive rumble and low interior resonance. Quality, power and great sound are the objectives and Magnaflow has accomplished the mission with their Exhaust systems. Proving that the underside of your car can look great too, most Magnaflow cat-back systems are composed entirely of stainless steel, with polished muffler cases. And don't worry—there is plenty of zing to match the bling. Straight to the point, Magnaflow mufflers feature a straight-through design for unimpeded Exhaust flow through perforated tubing. Keeping their reputation untarnished even on the inside, each muffler is packed with stainless steel wool, far outlasting the fiberglass used to pack lesser mufflers. Magnaflow Exhaust systems also magnify flow with mandrel bent tubing, further increasing horsepower and torque. Only have a driveway to work with? No problem! Magnaflow kits bolt up in a snap with stainless steel hardware and no modifications using the factory Exhaust hanger. What's the Right Performance Exhaust System for You? When it comes to performance, Flowmaster and Magnaflow have really done their homework. With a ton of great features to add a heartbeat to your ride, both options are a huge upgrade over your factory Exhaust system. Getting Exhausted from trying to decide on which kit to choose? If so, check out our Magnaflow reviews and Flowmaster reviews to see the un-muffled experiences our customers have shared.





How Car Exhaust System Works
Watch the animated video showing the working of an Exhaust system inside a car. Don't forget to share if you like it.





How to Install a 4WDH Cat-Back Exhaust on a WJ Grand Cherokee
http://www.4wd.com/Jeep-Engine-Performance/4Wheel-Drive-Hardware-Exhaust-Systems-for-Jeep.aspx?t_c=74&t_s=49&t_pt =3383&t_pl=104715 - In this video, we're showing you how to install a 4Wheel Drive Hardware cat-back Exhaust system on a WJ Grand Cherokee. This Exhaust (Part #1022020) sounds very similar to 1997-06 TJ Wranglers and 1997-01 XJ Cherokees with 4.0L 6-cylinder engines. Here's how it's done: 1. Unbolt and remove muffler clamp. 2. Persuasion may be needed to remove the Exhaust, especially if it's rusted on like ours was. 3. A sawzall makes quick work of it. 4. Remove the rear hanger after cutting through. 5. We had to use an air chisel to get the muffler off. 6. Install the adapter pipe. 7. Install the new muffler with the outlet facing the outside. 8. Use 2 clamps on the adapter pipe. 9. Slide Exhaust pipe in from the rear. 10. Install rear hanger clamp. 11. Attach Exhaust to muffler. 12. Snug all clamps and check for fit. 13. Tighten all bolts down after alignment. 14. Compare the sound of the factory Exhaust system to the newly installed 4Wheel Drive Hardware Exhaust system. Request Your Free Jeep Parts Catalog from 4WD: http://jo.my/4wd_jeep_parts_catalog Find these quality Exhaust systems and more at www.4WD.com.





Performance Muffler Upgrades [S2 Ep. 4-4]
In the world of hot rodding, when gear heads gather around and start discussing their projects, invariably the conversation drifts into speculation of what the smallest thing is that you can successfully put a V8 engine in. Well today on GEARZ, Stacey pretty much puts an end to that speculation by building a V8 powered BARSTOOL!! It's part go-cart... part garden tractor... part insane... and ALL hot rod. Which of course is what GEARZ is all about! If you like WILD.. then you don't want to miss this show! Then Stacey dives into some Muffler Tech to show you what kind of mufflers there are on the market, and give you some tips that might help you make the right decision when the time comes to stick some cool mufflers on your machine!





Installing SLP Dual exhaust tips on 2008 Avalanche
SLP dual tip tailpipe installation on my 2008 Avalanche, I wanted to show how easy and sweet the dual tip assembly from SLP is. It replaces the resonator and tail pipe just past the rear axle. Not really any louder than the stock muffler, but looks way better than the lam factory setup. does sound a little deeper when idling but when cruzing I can't really notice any difference in sound, I am very happy and if you want to get rid of your ugly factory tail pipe I highly recommend installing this kit. V





Replacing A Muffler On Your Car
Scotty Kilmer, mechanic for the last 46 years, shows how you can replace a noisy broken muffler on your car. It's easier than you may think. And, If you like my car help, be sure to watch my live car talk show every Saturday morning at 10 AM CST on YouTube. I answer your car questions LIVE there. Just check it out at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VognjkYaMjg&list=UUuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA&f eature=c4-overview . And remember, every TUESDAY I upload a new video, so don't miss them.





How To Install Replace Noisy Loud Exhaust Muffler Tailpipe Subaru Legacy Outback 96-99 1AAuto.com
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Mufflers/Subaru/LegacyOutback/1AEMF00012 1A Auto Shows you how to install, repair, fix, change or replace a noisy, loud, or broken muffler. This video is applicable to 1996-1999 Subaru Legacy Outback models.





MAGNAFLOW Installation for 2008 Tundra 5.7L CrewMax
MAGNAFLOW Off-Road Pro Series Exhaust system installation 2008 Toyota Tundra Crewmax 5.7L By Brent Wofford of Wofford Offroad Productions





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