Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times 0-60 Dyno Fast Cars Muscle Cars

MagnaFlow Muffler Install - 1991 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup - etrailer.com

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-1991-chevy-S10-MF10784-MF11226.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1991 Chevrolet S-10 we are going to be installing part number MF10784 and part number MF11226. This is going to be a little different from normal applications because we are actually doing a little bit of custom work. We are actually going to be removing the entire Exhaust and replacing it with a MagnaFlow Exhaust cut out and a MagnaFlow wide open muffler. The first steps we are going to show you is how to remove the complete Exhaust and what we are going to have to do is remove it from the hangers and I will show you those locations right now. Before we remove everything we want to put a strap to hold up your Exhaust so it does not fall when you are removing the bolts and mounts. 00:38 The first location we are actually going to remove is going to be the rear most bracket here. That is going to be these two bolts right here. We went ahead and sprayed them down with some lubricant to help get the bolts off since this is an older truck. The second Exhaust mount that we are going to be removing is going to be the one at the back of the muffler which is going to be located here. It is also going to be two bolts holding it into the frame. After we remove the Exhaust mounts your Exhaust will be free hanging on that strap and then we are going to be removing these two bolts right here which will remove the Exhaust from here back and then we will start applying our applications. 01:15 We are going to get started on removing the Exhaust brackets. I just removed one, the other one was kind of rusted on there but we can actually just slide it back over. Then when we remove the Exhaust this will just slide off so we do not need to take out this other bolt. So now we are going to remove the Exhaust system. As you can see we are going to actually take the Sawzall off and cut it off right here. Since this is the factory Exhaust it is all rusted up and there is no way we are going to be able to slide it off so we are just going to cut right at the edge where the old Exhaust is going to be removed. As you can see we went ahead and put a second bearing strap so that when we finish cutting our Exhaust over here that it will not fall. 01:57 As you can see we have it off now so we are just going to maneuver it around our rear end and slide it up over the top of it. It would probably be best to have a second set of hands to help you as well in maneuvering. On this Exhaust cut out here they are provided with two band clamps but since we widened our diameter here they do not fit over the pipe any more so we went ahead and bought some after market pipe brackets. As you can see it just slides over like that and you will be provided those in your kit. On this application we are using these. We will put this on first and we will show you how to do that. Just take the Exhaust cut out and just slide it over our existing pipe and then we are going to take our bracket and slide it up over it and then we can tighten it down on to our muffler to make it a good seal tight. 02:50 Now we are going to put our MagnaFlow Exhaust in to place. You can put it whichever way you want that will best fit your needs. That is how you install this muffler and Exhaust cut out here. The way we did it, we are actually going to need to make an Exhaust hanger for it and you can probably just take your vehicle to any muffler shop and they can get one fabricated for you. It should not cost you that much. Now that we have it all installed we are going to show you a little bit of what it sounds like with the Exhaust. Then we are going to remove the Exhaust cut out and let you hear the sound of that as well. That concludes the installation for part numbers MF10784 and part number MF11226.


 


More Videos...


MagnaFlow Exhaust System Installation - 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-install-magnaflow-Exhaust-2009-chevy-silverado-MF16568.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2009 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Series extended cab short bed we are going to be installing MagnaFlow Exhaust system part number MF16568. We are underneath the vehicle and the first thing I have done is lowered the spare tire out of the way to give us some extra working room. We also want to disconnect the battery. What that is going to do is once we get the system installed we can reconnect it and it will actually reset the computer system so it does not bring up any trouble codes from the new system. The first step before we can install our Exhaust system is to of course remove the factory installed Exhaust. There are four Exhaust hangers that we are going to need to remove the Exhaust off of towards the more rear side of the Exhaust system. 00:39 To the catalytic converter there is a clamp attaching the Exhaust to the converter. We are going to need to loosen that clamp as well. That clamp is going to be reused so we do not want to damage it so set it off to the side. Also to ease in the removal of the factory installed system we are going to need to cut the pipe just rear of the muffler right before the main bend right above the axle. Cut somewhere right in here, that will allow us to take that piece off and then remove the forward section all in one piece. With the cut made and the rear tail pipe removed I am going to go up to the forward side and remove my clamp next. With the clamp loosened up go back through and remove the main Exhaust system off its other three hangers. 01:44 Now it is time to start installing our new system. We are going to start with the inlet tube into the catalytic converter and again we are going to be reusing the clamp that we removed in the previous step. You will notice there is a bend in the inlet tube coming over the cross member. Make sure the bend is going up. We do not want to fully clamp it down just yet. We want to wait until we get all of the pieces in position and then we will come back through and tighten everything down. We are going to tighten it up to hold it into place. Next we are going to put the muffler in to position. We are going to merge the two pieces together using the three inch clamp and it is going to merge up with the factory hanger. Then you need to attach it to the two factory hangers. We are going to start installing back to the tips. This model only had single Exhaust on it but we are putting a dual Exhaust system on it. So we are going to finish out on the passenger side where the factory pipe was and then we will come back through and finish off the driver side. 02:52





Reese 5th Wheel Trailer Hitch 16,000 lbs Review - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Reese-5th-Wheel-Assembly-RP30047.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today we are going to assemble part number RP30047 from Reese. This is a 16K fifth wheel hitch. To start off, we are going to take the legs and assemble them on our rails here that are pre-existing on the truck. Then we will take our cross bar assembly that goes across, this will simply sit over the top, you can adjust it up and down as you need to match the height of your trailer. Then slide these bolts from the inside, out. :37 We will put the lock nuts on the outside here. At this point we will tighten down our bolts. Now that we have our legs and cross brace installed, you want to check if you can take the hitch in and out of the rails easily. If you can, that is a good sign and you can put the pins in and assemble the rest of the hitch. We will now install the pins and clips. 1:22 We are going to install our bumpers now. They are going to go on the front side of the hitch. The pin head screw goes through the center of the rubber bumper and a speed nut goes on the bottom. We will take the screw and push it through the bumper, take a screw driver and push it in, it in place, and take the speed nut and snug it up and you are good to go. Our center section that pivots will go in next. It will be held in place by this pin right here. It will get pushed in just like that, and it will have a clip on the other side to hold it in place. Lets go ahead and it in and tap the pin in with a rubber mallet. Then install our safety pin. Next we will go ahead and install our handle with a latch. Right here you want to put your cotter pin and then bend one half over and we should be good. The grip will be slid on the handle, and that will finish our assembly. 2:52 We will show you how the latch works for a king pin on the trailer. Take the handle and pull out, and move it to one side, usually the back, it will catch in the dent here, and lock the jaws open. Back your trailer into it and then pull on your handle here, pull a little bit, and it will lock back into place. Once you have your king pin secured, put the safety latch over the handle here and you could also use a padlock or safety pin to keep everything latched together. Once this is down, you cannot pull the handle out. The range of movement we will show next. It will rock from side to side and also from front to rear. With that, that will finish our assembly of part number RP30047 from Reese.





MagnaFlow Exhaust Installation - 1996 Acura Integra - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Magnaflow-install-1996-acura-Integra.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 1996 Acura Integra we are going to install MagnaFlow Exhaust part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance. First off we will give you a sound test of the original Exhaust on there. Then we can compare it to the new one once we have it installed. First we will show you what is going to get replaced in our Exhaust system. Basically this is what is called a Cat-back or from the catalytic converter on back to the tailpipe. This is our converter right here and at this flange point we are going to unbolt right here and from here on back is going to get removed from the vehicle. On the bolts themselves we sprayed down with some penetrate and let it sit for at least an hour or so. The nut on the top is going to be a different size nut also. Leave that alone for now. 00:50 If these break we do not really care because this is all getting replaced anyway. Get this apart. Next spray down the rubber hangers with some more lubricant and we will pry them off. We do not want to damage the rubber hangers because those are going to get reused. The same thing is going to happen again with the muffler. Now if these hangers are already damaged from normal wear and tear you probably want to just replace them and this is going to be the best time to do it now. Now we have got our Exhaust completely off. What we are going to do is take any leftover hangers that had stayed with the Exhaust and remove those and put them back into the factory locations. 01:35 We are going to start installing new parts working our way from front to rear. We are going to slide on a new part. We are going to reuse the original factory nuts. We are just going to start one and get it started and hold everything into place and then we will slide on the rubber hangers. We will run all of these bolts down evenly and then give them a final torque. Working with the next section is going to S curve. Install the clamp, slide it on, and slide this on to the resonator pipe that we just installed. This does not really have anything to support it but the other half so we are going to slide it on for now. The approximate location of the original. Install the muffler and tailpipe and slide that into place. We will hook these up to the rubber hangers by the bumper. Put the S pipe next to the tailpipe itself. There is a little gasket that will go on here. Slide it into position and run the bolts through. This is hardware that does come with the kit and install the flange nuts. 03:28 Position the pipes the way that we want it and make sure it is not rattling up against anything that we do not want it to. Then once we have it the way we want it we will snug down the connections. The last thing we will do is tighten down the band clamp and that requires a specific torque range that is provided in the instructions. With our Exhaust fully installed the only thing we need to do now is turn the engine on and see what we get for sound. At about 20 to 50 miles, you probably want to go back underneath the vehicle again and make sure all of the fasteners are still tight. That sounds pretty good. There you have it for part number MF15653 from MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust.





Trailer Hitch Installation - 2010 Buick Enclave - etrailer.com
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Hitch-Install-2010-Buick-Enclave.aspx Videos are provided as a guide only. Refer to manufacturer installation instructions and specs for complete information. Today on this 2010 Buick Enclave we are going to be installing Draw-Tite hitch part number 75528. This installation will also apply to Hidden Hitch part number 87435. We are looking at the underside of the vehicle. On this Enclave you can see we have this fascia door covering. We want to remove that. There are two screws here on the bottom holding it in. Then we can just set it off to the side. :26 The next thing we want to do is go ahead and lower down our Exhaust to give us more room to gain access to the frame. This particular model has duel Exhaust so we are going to need to lower both sides down. There are two sets of hangers per side that we need to remove the Exhaust off of. To lower the Exhaust down off its hangers we need to take a spray lubricant, like a WD-40 and spray the studs down. Then we can take a pair of pliers or a pry bar and separate the two pieces. We will repeat that for the outboard side one as well. :56 We are going to repeat the same thing for the driver side Exhaust as well. Before we take those down off the hangers we want to go ahead and support the main cross tube of the Exhaust system because once we lower it off of both sides the system is going to want to fall if it is not properly supported it could damage it. With the Exhaust lowered we can go ahead and point out the mounting holes we are going to be using to install our trailer hitch. Starting over on the driver side, you can see we have two existing weld nuts here at the bottom of the frame. These are going to provide our two attaching points for the driver side. That is going to be the same on the passenger side as well. Into those weld nuts we are going to be mounting the 12 millimeter bolts along with the conical tooth washers. Moving on to the center of the vehicle we have two attaching points here as well just behind the fascia door that we had removed earlier. To use these mounting holes we are going to be using the handle nut assembly along with the 1/2 inch hex bolt and conical tooth washer. What we are going to do with the handle nut is feed it through the square hole and lay it inside the frame over the attaching hole. What we are going to do is take and bend it so it sits like so right over the hole. When we put the hitch up we will put our hex bolt into place. We want to do that for both of the holes. 2:07 Now that we have all the mounting holes pointed out we can put our hitch up into position. Before I put the hex bolt into the handle nut here, we do need to put a small spacer in between the hitch and the frame. Now that we have all the bolts into place and snugged down, we are going to go back through and torque each one of the bolts down. You want to check with the directions to verify the appropriate torque rating for each individual bolt. Once we have all the bolts torqued down we want to put the Exhaust back up on its hangers. Make sure we remove our safety strap when we are done. And then if you would like, you can take and bend the handle nuts up out of the way so they are not visible. Now our installation is complete. 3:24 Now that we have our hitch installed, we are going to give you a couple final installed dimensions, which will help make choosing your hitch accessories a little easier. From the top of the receiver tube opening to the ground is going to measure 17-3/4 inches. From the center of the pin hole to the clear the rear edge of the bumper is approximately 5 inches. This will conclude the installation of Draw-Tite hitch part number 75528 on a 2010 Buick Enclave.





How Car Exhaust System Works
Watch the animated video showing the working of an Exhaust system inside a car. Don't forget to share if you like it.





Performance Muffler Upgrades [S2 Ep. 4-4]
In the world of hot rodding, when gear heads gather around and start discussing their projects, invariably the conversation drifts into speculation of what the smallest thing is that you can successfully put a V8 engine in. Well today on GEARZ, Stacey pretty much puts an end to that speculation by building a V8 powered BARSTOOL!! It's part go-cart... part garden tractor... part insane... and ALL hot rod. Which of course is what GEARZ is all about! If you like WILD.. then you don't want to miss this show! Then Stacey dives into some Muffler Tech to show you what kind of mufflers there are on the market, and give you some tips that might help you make the right decision when the time comes to stick some cool mufflers on your machine!





Installing SLP Dual exhaust tips on 2008 Avalanche
SLP dual tip tailpipe installation on my 2008 Avalanche, I wanted to show how easy and sweet the dual tip assembly from SLP is. It replaces the resonator and tail pipe just past the rear axle. Not really any louder than the stock muffler, but looks way better than the lam factory setup. does sound a little deeper when idling but when cruzing I can't really notice any difference in sound, I am very happy and if you want to get rid of your ugly factory tail pipe I highly recommend installing this kit. V





Solving Engine Performance Issues (Part 1) - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ See Part 2 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAKwCzUE_9M Vacuum leaks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok+ Voltage leaks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-U9WqJfaJs Power Balance http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bAOmUjAjNjE Compression testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X_tbksFYhl4 Leak down testing http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc&feature=relmfu I get a lot of questions via email and over at the forum about the steps to take when you encounter a performance issue like my Subaru's hesitation issue and I often feel like I sound like a broken record when I cover the basic steps that I cover when encountering a situation like that. My main point here is that if you have a performance problem and you're going to throw parts at the problem start with the basics before you to off and start replacing sensors that you suspect are a problem, if you don't have evidence of a faulty sensor then don't start there start with the simple tune up items and check for vacuum leaks and air leaks as I've shown here and I believe you'll have better results and save yourself some money in the process. In short the rule of KISS applies, Keep It Simple Stupid. If you have questions about your own engine performance issues head over to my website and either ask the search function or ask the forum, we'd be happy to help. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- Stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





How to Install a Cheap Exhaust System and Muffler: 2003 Ford F150
In this video, we show you how to install an Exhaust system from the catalytic converter on back. We got a 20 dollar Cherrybomb turbo muffler from Autozone, and it really made the ride quieter. It's hard to hear the Exhaust tone due to the California emission dual catalytic converter package.





How To Install Replace Noisy Loud Exhaust Muffler Tailpipe Subaru Legacy Outback 96-99 1AAuto.com
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/Mufflers/Subaru/LegacyOutback/1AEMF00012 1A Auto Shows you how to install, repair, fix, change or replace a noisy, loud, or broken muffler. This video is applicable to 1996-1999 Subaru Legacy Outback models.





1965 Chevelle Quarter Panel Install Pt. 1 V8TV
http://www.v8tvshow.com - PART 1 - Quarter panels are one of the most rust and dent-prone parts of musclecars, and our 1965 Chevelle had some of each. Mostly dents. Thankfully, OPGI came out with new reproduction full quarter panels for 1965 Chevelles. In this video, we show you how to remove your old panel and install the new. Also applies to other GM A Bodies like Skylarks, Cutlasses, GTOs and others.





Chevy Big Block Engine Starting
We just finished our new Chevy Big-Block engine, wich will soon find a home in our 1980 Camaro. It is just one of many BBC's that I have built. It is a "street friendly" 10:1 all forged, mechanical roller with too many goodies to list . It sounds crazy and I can't wait to feel the tire shreading performance.





How to Choose the Right Cherry Bomb Muffler
This video walks you through the entire Cherry Bomb line-up of mufflers, from the Vortex to the Pro to the famous red Glasspack.





Magnaflow muffler comparison
A comparison between my old glasspack mufflers and the new Manaflow's I just fitted. It's much quieter and has a better tone with the Magnaflow's.





Magnaflow Auspuffanlagen
Kalifornien ist die Brutstätte brachialen Auspuffsounds. Motorvision blickt hinter die Kulissen des Auspuffherstellers Magnaflow.




Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?





Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

1956 Chevrolet Pickup : 9.000 @ 149.000
Al Lyda, Engine: Chev 565 CI, Tires: goodyear


1972 Nissan PICKUP : 9.300 @ 144.000
Ronald Folck, Engine: l6, Turbos: 1


1972 Nissan PICKUP : 9.300 @ 144.000
ronald folck, Engine: nissan L-6, Turbos: turbonetics


1927 Datsun Pickup LS1800: 9.376 @ 149.600
Jesse Baumbach, Engine: CA18DET, Turbos: Garrett T25


1971 Datsun Pickup PL521: 10.022 @ 131.500
Nick Caffarel, Engine: 2.5 rb25det, Turbos: t3/t4 .63 ar AGP Tires: 15x10.5x28


1968 Datsun Pickup : 10.120 @ 130.240
hank, Engine: 383 stroker, Supercharger: no Turbos: no Tires: 26x4-15, 32x14-15


1985 Nissan PICKUP 720 doublecab: 10.150 @ 137.340
434, Engine: SBC 434ci, Supercharger: none Turbos: none Tires: M/T


1966 Ford Pickup f-100: 10.390 @ 128.060
John A. Mikeska, Engine: 466 Ford, Supercharger: n/a Turbos: n/a Tires: Goodyear


1985 Nissan PICKUP 720 doublecab: 10.520 @ 129.780
434, Engine: SBC 434 ci, Supercharger: none Turbos: none Tires: M/T


1987 Toyota Pickup : 11.260 @ 120.180
Brandon Stevens, Engine: 357ci sb chevy, Tires: m/t 29x15.5 and skinnys up front


1951 Chevrolet Pickup Step Side: 11.265 @ 114.670
Mark Acton, Engine: 350 chevy, Supercharger: no Turbos: no Tires: MT 33-15-15 rear


1993 Toyota Pickup : 11.340 @ 123.000
Dave G, Engine: Toyota 22r, Turbos: Turbonetics 60-1 Tires: MT ET streets 28x11.50x15


1999 Chevrolet Pickup : 11.359 @ 117.070
Moze Collins, Engine: 6.0l, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: 82mm Tires: Continental Cross Contact UHP


2002 Chevrolet Pickup Silverado: 11.478 @ 118.960
C.J. Quinton, Engine: 408, Supercharger: Procharger D1SC Tires: Yokohama


1950 Chevrolet Pickup 3100: 11.602 @ 114.910
Ron Plender, Engine: 292 CID inline 6 cylinder,


1950 Chevrolet Pickup 3100: 11.720 @ 113.110
Ron Plender, Engine: 292 CID inline 6 cylinder, Tires: MT 29.5 X 9


1993 Toyota Pickup : 11.800 @ 120.000
Dave G, Engine: LC Engineering Stage Five, Turbos: Turbonetics 60-1 Tires: Mickey Thomspon Et streets 28x11.50x15


1955 Ford Pickup F100: 11.990 @ 132.000
GLENN, Engine: 377 STROKER,


1988 Toyota Pickup Hilux: 12.075 @ 110.750
Robert Conquer, Engine: 22R, Tires: Mickey Thompson E.T. Drag 26 x 8 x 14


1969 Datsun Pickup : 12.200 @ 115.000
Larry West, Engine: hi-perf. 350, Tires: p275/50/15


 


©2014 DragTimes - Disclaimer