Stock motor 1G Plymouth Laser AWD 544whp SAE corrected
Took Wilder Garriga's stock motor/head gasket 35R powered Laser AWD back to the Dyno for some tuning on the new cams and dual pump setup. Only changes was adding a 2nd Walbro 255HP pump and dropping in HKS 272 cams with Crower single springs and retainers. Boost was left the same at 30psi for both Dyno sessions. Massive gains for just some cams and tuning heh?
Car picked up 75whp and 64 ft-lbs of torque with uncorrected #'s. Picked up 73whp and 61 ft-lbs of torque with SAE corrected #'s.
SAE corrected Dyno sheet attached, uncorrected #'s were 558.77whp and 435.03 ft-lbs of torque.
9 second turbo 1g awd dsm drag race, Nick Stack 9.6 @ 145 mph
Nick Stack in his 1990 Eclipse GSX making some passes at the Import vs
Nick won the Modified Import Class.
Trying out the new JMF Drag sheet metal intake manifold, tune needs some
tweaking for that larger plenum over the Magnus but it was still running in
the mid 9's.
Inaugural Liberty Engines Import vs Domestic Shootout at New England
6/23/2012 - Epping, NH
New England DSM
9 second 1g awd dsm turbo drag race, Nick Stack 9"s ALL Night 5/30/12
Nick Stack in his 1990 Eclipse GSX doing some test and tune runs.
Made all these passes in a 2 hour span and the car ran great.
Doing some testing on a few new things hoping to push into the very low
Listen close and you can hear the revs go up around the 1000 ft, clutch
starting to slip.
Car has run a best to date of 9.403 @152.61, 1.373 60ft.
New England Dragway - Epping, NH.
May 30, 2012
It's Got Frickin LASER Beams! 10 Second Plymouth Laser Turbo - Kyle Cimbron 10.36 @ 134mph
1g awd DSM Drag Race
Kyle Cimbron running a new best 10.367 @ 134.14 MPH on DOT Street Legal
Hoosiers in his mint condition 1g Plymouth Laser RS.
Won the Forced Induction Sport Class at Import Face Off at New England
Car info:turbo is a FP3565 (old school
Non HTA 35R in FP's bolt on housing) Quartermaster Twin Disc, FIC 950's,
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New England DSM
New England Dragway
1G AWD Dual Fuel Pump Hanger
Here is a link to the fittings mentioned by Jon06IX
This is just one of many ways to turn a stock 1G AWD fuel sending unit into
a full blown dual in-tank hanger. The parts used to construct yours will
depend on many things, but I will explain what I used and why I choose to
go that route. If you are going to dual pumps and modifying your hanger,
you will also need to upgrade the feed line all the way to the rail.
The biggest decision is when and where you want to join the fuel pumps into
one line. This can and has been done inside the tank in which case you
would only have one outlet. I choose to run two 6AN fuel lines 7 feet under
the car and connect them into a Y fitting there. The amount of things that
you are going to shove in the fuel tank is quite impressive and if you try
to add a Y fitting under the hanger it just makes it so much worse.
Once this decision is made, you choose your line size so you know what
fittings to buy. I ended up with two 6AN's feeding one 8AN line, so I
needed two 90* 6AN fittings, two lock nuts, two 6AN hose barb fittings, and
4 Nylon Washers. This constructs the way in and out of the fuel pump with
the hanger installed. To make room for the second fitting I drilled out the
hole where the power wire terminal used to be (mine was already broken).
Don't worry, you will be making a new pathway for the power wire :) I used
Nylon washers due to their compatibility with E85, durability, and air
tight seal that they would create.
You will need your two fuel pumps, a few worm clamps (for the outlet of the
fuel pumps and to secure the pumps) and some SUBMERSIBLE fuel line. This
fuel line is very expensive but is made to be submerged unlike off the
shelf AutoZone fuel line. Both the inside and the outside are coated to
protect against premature failure and deterioration which could very well
save your motor!!! This hose is also compatible with E85.
The Small metal stock that you see being cut needs to be made. The hanger
has a curve to it that allows the pump to line up in the stock location.
During my project, I noticed that this allowed the pump to sit too far back
and sit at an angle. My solution was to get a piece of stock that was the
same width and just thick enough to make my pump sit flush.
Next up is the wiring. You need a path for the wires, but there are no
holes?? I picked up a variety pack of rubber grommets from the hardware
store and found the one to fit my wires. Drill your holes and insert your
grommets. I would highly encourage you to solder all the connections and
heat shrink them. This is to avoid sparks ESPECIALLY inside the fuel tank.
I had to connect the ground wires inside the tank because they were too
short to exit the hanger like the power wires and I wanted a good ground
for the pumps. The rest of the wiring will be covered in a later video.
A BIG Thanks goes out to Jon91TSi from Tuners. He sent me an email
explaining this process and that is what allowed me to successfully
complete this project. Thanks again Jonathan!!!
I hope that his helps you with your project. If you find this entertaining
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