computer throwing codes p0300- p0304
what could be wrong with this thing?
its the 2.0 dohc engine (i know shitty neon engine lol)
idles bad and misses randomly on all four cylinders.
drives fine and the missing is only noticable when idling.
the computer is not indicating the any of the sensors are bad
thes are the only codes its displaying.
could it be the timing?????
engine compartment to interior to Exhaust...
Mitsubishi Eclipse 1998 Bad Idle High idle
Forgot to mention that when i turn on my AC the car drops down to 1500 but
then out of no where it raises back again to 2500
BTW i tried the BISS and it was all the way in if i loosen it the car idle
and the leak i may have is from turbo
pipe to Intercooler...
it hisses when i rev past 4000 and then the car starts misfiring and
the cars getting on my nerves but...
what can i do helppp!!!
Engine coolant system and compression testing
There are lots of ways to diagnose a head gasket or to check the general
health of an engine, but this video is focusing on 3 major systems.
1) The coolant system
2) The combustion chamber
3) The valvetrain
COOLANT SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST:
The boiling point of water (coolant) RISES under pressure. It's imperative
that the coolant system has NO AIR in it, no leaks, a known-good
thermostat, and a good radiator cap in order to function properly. If the
pressure stamped on your radiator cap is not being achieved, Boyle's law is
not taking affect, and your coolant will boil when the car is being driven
at it's normal operating temperature, and may exhibit signs of a blown head
gasket. Many have cursed the process of burping all the air out, sometimes
even taking several days and heat cycles to complete the process.
The point of a compression test is to diagnose the health of each
combustion chamber. A compression test is a crude test to determine if a
ring, valve seal, valve, or a head gasket problem exists. It will show
immediately in this test because the gauge will not rise to the pressure
specified for your engine. There are 3 numbers you need regarding your
High limit, Low Limit and Range.
The high limit is specified by your car's manufacturer and reflects the
equipment they used to build the engine. If you EXCEED the high limit,
chances are it's caused by excessive carbon build-up, and a Seafoam or MCCC
treatment will usually remove the carbon and return it to an acceptable
value. If that build-up isn't caused by cheap gas, then it's likely the
car has an EGR problem or excessive oil blow-by leading to this situation.
The Low Limit represents the point in which the combustion chamber is not
able to compress the engine's specified fuel to the point where it can
ignite it. Gasoline and air need to be compressed together in order for
the energy stored in that fuel to be released. If it isn't achieved, it
will only burn, and not explode. Lower-than-Low Limit pressure means it's
time to rebuild the engine because one of the sealing components in the
combustion chamber has failed or is in need of servicing. Either way, it's
expensive because working on the combustion chamber requires extensive
disassembly or unusual tools that the average mechanic doesn't have.
Range specifies how many PSI of variance there can be between ALL of your
compression numbers. If there's a large variance on one cylinder, then the
engine will not run smoothly. If a cylinder is below spec, it may feel
like a misfire even though the plug is getting spark. If all the values
are close, the engine idles and revs more smoothly.
Aftermarket cams, pistons, head gaskets or machining will affect the
results of your tests. A higher compression piston or thinner head gasket
can raise the compression numbers slightly. A thicker head gasket or
longer-duration cams will lower compression slightly. I don't know how to
determine exact numbers because I'm not an engineer, but you should
remember that during testing if your engine is modified.
So in a nutshell, you want your numbers to be close and between the high
and low limits. If a test fails, the only way to determine WHAT failed is
to perform a leakdown test. Modifications to the factory internals or
machining WILL change the OEM compression limit values, but NOT the range
I'm not using a real leakdown tester in this video. A real leakdown tester
has a regulator, a pressure gauge, a restrictor, and another pressure
gauge. You measure the value of the post-restrictor gauge vs. the
regulated supply and mark the percentage of pressure-drop. As a general
rule, most cars are healthy around a 20% value. Race engines should be
between 1-10% for highest performance.
I'm using the ghetto method for this test. Get the piston roughly at Top
Dead Center, apply air pressure, fine tune TDC for that piston by turning
the crank with a wrench to see if you can stop all of the airflow. Listen
to the intake for leaking air to determine if there's a bad intake valve.
Listen to the tailpipe for leaking Exhaust valves. If neither are leaking, but air
is still flowing, remove the tool and pour a cap of oil into the spark plug
hole so that it coats the rings to make a better seal. After oiling,
re-install the tool and repeat the test to see if you get better results.
If you do, you have bad rings. If you don't, you have bad valve stem
seals, a blown head gasket, or a cracked head. If you have a cracked head
or bad head gasket, then there will likely be pressure venting through your
coolant system. Taking off the radiator cap and watching for air rising to
the filler neck will point you in the right direction.
Best ENDO in a Talon Ever! 9 second 1g awd dsm drag race, Nick Stack
Nick Stack 1g awd dsm drag race
This is what happens with not enough Boost on the launch and a bad injector clip,
losing contact on the launch.
After tearing the car apart twice in 3 weeks and redoing the wiring harness
twice as well Nick was out for the first time this season. Car was only
running on 3 cylinders and by the time we figured out the cause the lanes
were closed. It was an aftermarket injector clip that appeared to have
never been fully crimped inside the connector since new.
New England Dragway - Epping, NH.
May 10, 2013
New England DSM.
Low rough idle running rich SOLVED
FIXED: It was the map sensor. the wires were barely wrapped and it was not
getting a good connection
black smoke. b18c1 running very rich and rough. idle is low. and when i rev
it, it is still as rough as idle. a lot of gas is getting pumped into the
engine, and i have no idea why. i was messing with the TB before this
info on the engine:
--stock TB, intake mani, fuel rail, sensors besides the 3 bar map
--450cc dsm injectors
--chipped ECU on crome
any info would be great
95 eagle talon tsi problems. rough idle, backfires, and dies DSM 4G63
Just replaced the timing and balance shaft belts. 200 miles later it acts
like it jumped time. The Exhaust is
smoking because i performed a wet compression test so its burning out the
tranny fluid. The engine bay is smoking because it fired up while there
was no valve cover on and it covered everything in oil. alternator will
not charge. Put on a new alternator and it still will not charge.
compression tests good and coil packs are okay. parking lamp wires are
all melted up and shorted so i have the front bumper off to access the
wiring. looks like i need a new ECU. IF ANYBODY HAS ANY IDEAS PLEASE LET
ME KNOW THANK YOU
98 Talon eclipse 2.0 problem missfire all cylinders
computer throwing codes p0300- p0304 what could be wrong with this thing?
its the 2.0 dohc engine (i know shitty neon engine lol) idles bad and
misses randomly on all four cylinders. drives fine and the missing is only
noticable when idling. the computer is not indicating the any of the
sensors are bad thes are the only codes its displaying. could it be the
timing????? engine compartment to interior to Exhaust...