How to Assemble a Chevy Engine Part 1
This video will show you how to assemble a Chevy engine (or any engine)
starting from the basic block. It goes through installing the crankshaft,
checking for the right clearences using plastic gage, installing the rings
on the pistons, installling the piston in the block, checking the rod
bearing clearence, torquing all the bolts to the collect specifications,
installing the rear main seal, and demonstrating how the motor works from
the bottom view and top view.
Chevy 350 Engine Rebuild Part 7
Installing Lifters, Push rods, & rocker arms. Also, adjusting rockers.
This is part 7 in a multi-part series on rebuilding this engine. Thanks
Firing up A Brand New Chevy 409 Engine
My dad and I built a Chevy 409ci engine, and we fired it up for the first
time today. It has a roller camshaft and valve train setup, so it didn't
need the always worrysome break in procedure that a flat tappet engine
requires. This video is from the second time we ran it, as we had to shut
it down on the first try, due to a coolant leak. All of the smoke is from
the anti-freeze on the headers, and the fact that they're brand new
headers. Here's a spec list on the engine:
1963 Chevrolet 409 block (stock bore)
1961 409 forged crankshaft
Stock connecting rods
1963 high performance forged pistons
11:1 compression ratio
ARP Main Studs, Rod Bolts, Head bolts, and accessory bolts
Edelbrock Performer RPM aluminum cylinder heads
Comp Cams hydraulic roller 236/242 duration at .050-inch lift, .578/.593
max lift, 110 LSA
Comp Cams roller lifters, pushrods, Comp Ultra Pro Magnum 1.7:1 rocker arms
Edelbrock Performer RPM dual quad intake with dual 500cfm four-barrel
Edelbrock as-cast finned aluminum valve covers (air cleaner not pictured)
Edelbrock aluminum water pump
Pertronix billet distributor, coil and plug wires
Hooker 1-7/8-inch Super Competition headers
Engine break-in and initial tuning is being performed on a home-made engine
run in stand, complete with a battery, fuel supply and cooling system. Stay
tuned for more videos on this engine, as we tune it, in preparation for
some Dyno time.
Auto Mechanics: Water Cooled Engines: "Water Boy" 1936 Chevrolet 11min
more at http://auto-parts.quickfound.net/
"A DRAMATIZATION OF THE COOLING SYSTEM OF THE AUTOMOBILE, SHOWING HOW THE
WATER CIRCULATES AROUND THE CYLINDERS, COOLING THEM AND IN TURN BEING
COOLED BY THE AIR DRAWN IN THROUGH THE RADIATOR."
Public domain film from the Library of Congress Prelinger Archive, slightly
cropped to remove uneven edges, with the aspect ratio corrected, and mild
video noise reduction applied.
The soundtrack was also processed with volume normalization, noise
reduction, clipping reduction, and equalization (the resulting sound,
though not perfect, is far less noisy than the original).
...Cars and trucks using direct air cooling (without an intermediate
liquid) were built over a long period from the very beginning and ending
with a small and generally unrecognized technical change. Before World War
II, water-cooled cars and trucks routinely overheated while climbing
mountain roads, creating geysers of boiling cooling water. This was
considered normal, and at the time, most noted mountain roads had auto
repair shops to minister to overheating engines....
... The subject of boiling engines was addressed, researched, and a
solution found. Previous radiators and engine blocks were properly designed
and survived durability tests, but used water pumps with a leaky
graphite-lubricated "rope" seal (gland) on the pump shaft. The seal was
inherited from steam engines, where water loss is accepted, since steam
engines already expend large volumes of water. Because the pump seal leaked
mainly when the pump was running and the engine was hot, the water loss
evaporated inconspicuously, leaving at best a small rusty trace when the
engine stopped and cooled, thereby not revealing significant water loss.
Automobile radiators (or heat exchangers) have an outlet that feeds cooled
water to the engine and the engine has an outlet that feeds heated water to
the top of the radiator. Water circulation is aided by a rotary pump that
has only a slight effect, having to work over such a wide range of speeds
that its impeller has only a minimal effect as a pump. While running, the
leaking pump seal drained cooling water to a level where the pump could no
longer return water to the top of the radiator, so water circulation ceased
and water in the engine boiled. However, since water loss led to overheat
and further water loss from boil-over, the original water loss was hidden.
After isolating the pump problem, cars and trucks built for the war effort
(no civilian cars were built during that time) were equipped with
carbon-seal water pumps that did not leak and caused no more geysers.
Meanwhile, air cooling advanced in memory of boiling engines... even though
boil-over was no longer a common problem. Air-cooled engines became popular
throughout Europe. After the war, Volkswagen advertised in the USA as not
boiling over, even though new water-cooled cars no longer boiled over, but
these cars sold well, and without question. But as air quality awareness
rose in the 1960s, and laws governing Exhaust emissions were passed, unleaded gas
replaced leaded gas and leaner fuel mixtures became the norm. These
reductions in the cooling effects of both the lead and the formerly rich
fuel mixture, led to overheating in the air-cooled engines. Valve failures
and other engine damage was the result. Volkswagen responded by abandoning
their (flat) horizontally opposed air-cooled engines, while Subaru took a
different course and chose liquid-cooling for their (flat) engines.
Today practically no air-cooled automotive engines are built, air cooling
being fraught with manufacturing expense and maintenance problems.
Motorcycles had an additional problem in that a water leak presented a
greater threat to reliability, their engines having small cooling water
volume, so they were loath to change; today most larger motorcycles are
water-cooled with many relying on convection circulation with no pump...