My saab started stalling (the engine acts as if it stops running, and then starts running again). This causes the rpms to fluctuate (sometimes going down 1500 rpm before coming back up). However, if I let the engine idle, there is no stalling. The longer I drive it, the worse it gets, until it stalls when slight pressure is applied to the accellerator. When I turn off the car and start it back up, it runs normal for a little bit. This problem has been getting progressively worse and now the car isn't driveable.
Also, when the accelerator is pressed hard from idle, there is a dip in the rpms. However, when in park I can raise the rpms to any level and it will stay there without fluctuating.
The computer is throwing the code P0108, the map sensor is showing higher pressure than expected. I have replaced the map sensor and all vacuum lines connected to the throttle body (they were in bad shape). After doing both of the above, the car seemed to work fine, then 30 miles down the road it was back to the same problem. After this I started throwing parts at it, and replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pressure regulator, and the spark plugs, I also cleaned out the throttle body. These had no effect. Just now, I used a baby snot bulb connected to turbo bypass valve to test for leaks, but it didn't seem to be losing vacuum.
~ 700hp Turbo Saab, 312kmh (194mph)
Extreme turbo Saab + 300 kmh
Many viewers have misunderstood this video, so I explain it a little:
-Speed at finish line (1mile/1609m) is measured. Time is not measured.
-First Saab does 1st and 2nd gear with ~half throttle. Second Saab has limited Boost for 1st and 2nd gear.
- three extra seconds between 0-100kmh typically means ~30meters wasted. But three extra seconds used in speeds close to 300kmh, means almost 300meters wasted.
Here is equally powerful RWD cars (if not even more HP's) These RWD's are a lot faster between 0-150kmh, but these Saabs are faster from 150kmh-300kmh. You get the point when you compare speeds at finish line. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=urWWdomnncw
-A Saab 9-5 driver pushes a little too much throttle @3rd gear and looses traction. He lifts a throttle and pushes it back, but too much again and then he gears up 4th, a bit earlier than planned. (optimal is@205kmh).
Earlier that summer I broke one gearbox when pushing too hard on 3rd gear.
With new gearbox and at later event, I drove very gently on first three gears to avoid breaking it again. I pushed WOT for the first time on 4th gear @ 190kmh. You can hear it clearly on following video. Engine tone changes totally around 200kmh. Incar video is from 299kmh pull (at 1 mile race) Something happened to camera during the run. So I didn't get any incar video from a 305kmh pull. To see that run from the start line, please see my other videos.
Here is incar video until camera dies. Start is @1min. http://youtu.be/M4NNX4Ygnwc
MAP Sensor & Wiring Diagram
MAP Sensor & Wiring Diagram
Amazon Printed Books
Amazon Kindle Edition
The MAP sensor or manifold air pressure sensor is a main input to the ECM or engine control module. This sensor detect the intake manifold pressure change value and converts it into a signal voltage. Get the scoop on the MAP sensor from an electronic point of view and towards reading wiring diagrams.
Presented using advanced software CG animation technology to help you understand. Part of our wiring diagram and electronic series shown here on this channel. Enjoy...
Amazon Printed-Books & Kindle:
Google Play Android APPs:
Amazon Video DVDs:
Barnes & Noble Nook:
Apple iTunes iPad:
Volvo 850 problem..Need advice!!
Having some problems with my 96' Volvo 850. Recently changed spark plugs as well as fuel injectors to try and fix problem, didn't work.
Its reving up without me even touching the gas, and burning real rich. Its almost as if its reving up to try and keep itself going. Hooked up an obd scanner that said it was something to do with the mass air flow because of a high input. But i have no clue what i'd have to do to fix that. Also, my Exhaust output is smelling like burnt gas.
I don't know if its because of a bad catalytic converter and I'm not getting enough air flow, the air flow sensor, bad o2 sensor or what. It's just running real rough at the moment.
Oh and that oil behind my car isn't from my vehicle, its from another p.o.s i have lol. But yeah i have no clue as to what the problem is or how to fix it. Anyone had a similar problem or some professional advice? I'd appreciate it much. Thank you.
2002 Saab 9-3 SE Hatchback Start Up, Engine, and In Depth Tour
In this video I give a full in depth tour of the 2002 Saab 9-3 SE Hatchback. I take viewers on a close look through the interior and exterior of this car while showing details, over viewing of features, and noting unique styling cues to the vehicle itself. I also show the engine and the details of it, start it up and see how it sounds under acceleration. A thorough tour/review of this car designed to give others a greater overall appreciation of the vehicle.
[Solved - bad timing chain] Saab 9-5 2.0t -99 | Knocking sound
A video showing the knocking sound I hear especially when my engine is cold. It appears to come from around the area where the chain is, but I'm not sure what's causing the sound.... Any ideas?
The car runs just fine and I've just recently changed all the fluids and they are still at the same levels as they were when I filled them up.
John's 2000 Dodge Ram Sport fuel pressure
The Ram uses the same pressure regulation system that the Intrepid and other LH cars do. So to see if the fluctuations on the Intrepid were indeed a problem, we decided to see how steady the fuel pressure was on the Ram since it is running well. The needle on the meter was almost dead on, confirming our suspicion that the Intrepid needs a regulator.
Pressure for the Ram is lower than the LH, the FSM states 52PSI +/- 5PSI. Its a bit on the low side on this truck, but still within spec given the tolerance of the instrument.
As for the truck its a 2000 Ram Sport with the 5.9L Magnum V8. (360 LA small block). It's yet another project for my friend and I to work on. The plan is to clean up the paint a bit, put in a new dash, some new speakers and mod the engine to make 350HP or so. (headers, dual Exhaust, new intake manifold, a bit of head work, and some software). It will still be a work truck but it sure will be fun to work in when it is done!