94 5.0 Mustang GT 125 Shot Vs 4g63 Turbo Dodge Colt From a Dead Stop
94 5.0 Mustang Gt , headers, full Exhaust, CAI, 125hp NOS Dry Kit, U/D pullies, 3.73 Gears, Automatic Vs. Dodge Colt, 4g63 Swap, Big 16g turbo w/ 6cm Exhaust, Big FMIC, 2.5 in I/C piping, 3 in GM MAF & Translator, Greddy BOV, Full Exhaust, 8-10 psi, and some weight reduction, from a Dead Stop
Mustang 5.0 vs Honda Civic Turbo b18 highway run!
"WHITE LIGHTNING" 5.0 Mustang, full Exhaust, f303 cam, carbuerated with a 3.73 gear
and aluminum heads 12.7@113mph...
"BLACK Boost" Honda Civic turbo b18 @ 12psi
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4g63 Turbo Manifold Swap #1
This is one of the problems I found after the Thursday night test & tune.
Over the next 2 days, I kept watching my airflow counts dropping gradually
in my logs and knew what was going down. Then I decided to drive it to
work and it sounded like somebody was running next to me with a
lawnmower... further confirming that I knew what was going on. Yep.
Pre-turboExhaust leak. It still had balls when I mashed
the gas, but I could tell it wasn't right. I was surprised because when I
found the crack, I realized I shouldn't have even been able to spool the turbo. This manifold flows better than the
stock piece, sure... but unless you get one made of inconel, it's a raging
pile of crap. Get rid of it. 304 stainless doesn't cut it. I even had
the lower turbo/Exhaust brace in place, so it wasn't getting
wrenched on accelerating and decelerating. This thing just wore out &
broke off from heat and pressure, and it did it in less than 2000 miles.
Yes, it's the one in the polishing video.
Other things that are a good idea to do...
1) always use factory turbo bolts and
washers. You're supposed to replace them with NEW bolts and washers. Use
FACTORY TORQUE SPECS! 21-23lbs + 60-70°
2) Stainless Steel 3mm turbo gaskets are
re-usable. Worth the investment.
3) Use Stainless Steel ARP head studs. They don't break off like OEM ones
do. This job sucks when you snap off factory studs. Use FACTORY TORQUE
SPECS! 19-21 lbs (even on ARP hardware) for the M8 nuts. 21-23 lbs on the
outer two M10 nuts if you have a 2g.
4) if you have to replace one, just get the EVO manifold. It dwarfs both
the 1g and 2g. The turbo flange is
bigger, so put my turbo port & polish
video to use. It doesn't need to be ported like the 2g part does, and it's
a thicker cast making it last much longer. If you have the cash, go ahead
and buy the Forced Performance cast manifold. You won't regret it.
5) The only people that will know why this video is called Manifold Swap #1
are the people who read the info. I have a brand new FP manifold that's
being ceramic coated, and I had bought it prior to this failure, not
anticipating that it would happen. Lucky me. I hated where the tubular
bits ended up in my engine bay, and they're preventing me from
re-installing my polished valve cover. The only reason I put that thing on
my car was because the 2g stock manifold was ugly. Ugly, sure... but it
works just as good and more reliably than these tubular things. If you buy
a manifold, buy a CAST manifold.
Polishing a 2g GSX 4g63 Turbo cylinder head & manifold
The stainless steel manifold had never been polished, but the nice thing
about stainless is you don't have to do all the prep-sanding that you do
with Aluminum before being able to polish it. Aluminum takes 10x the
effort with sanding than it does to polish. Fortunately I had already done
all of that to the head and coolant neck back in '05, so all it needed was
black rouge to come back to life. Stainless is much more corrosion
resistant, but tends to blue itself with heat over time. I think it
cleaned up pretty well!