94 5.0 Mustang GT 125 Shot Vs 4g63 Turbo Dodge Colt From a Dead Stop
94 5.0 Mustang Gt , headers, full Exhaust, CAI, 125hp NOS Dry Kit, U/D pullies, 3.73 Gears, Automatic Vs. Dodge Colt, 4g63 Swap, Big 16g turbo w/ 6cm Exhaust, Big FMIC, 2.5 in I/C piping, 3 in GM MAF & Translator, Greddy BOV, Full Exhaust, 8-10 psi, and some weight reduction, from a Dead Stop
4g63 Turbo Manifold Swap #1
This is one of the problems I found after the Thursday night test & tune. Over the next 2 days, I kept watching my airflow counts dropping gradually in my logs and knew what was going down. Then I decided to drive it to work and it sounded like somebody was running next to me with a lawnmower... further confirming that I knew what was going on. Yep. Pre-turboExhaust leak. It still had balls when I mashed the gas, but I could tell it wasn't right. I was surprised because when I found the crack, I realized I shouldn't have even been able to spool the turbo. This manifold flows better than the stock piece, sure... but unless you get one made of inconel, it's a raging pile of crap. Get rid of it. 304 stainless doesn't cut it. I even had the lower turbo/Exhaust brace in place, so it wasn't getting wrenched on accelerating and decelerating. This thing just wore out & broke off from heat and pressure, and it did it in less than 2000 miles. Yes, it's the one in the polishing video.
Other things that are a good idea to do...
1) always use factory turbo bolts and washers. You're supposed to replace them with NEW bolts and washers. Use FACTORY TORQUE SPECS! 21-23lbs + 60-70°
2) Stainless Steel 3mm turbo gaskets are re-usable. Worth the investment.
3) Use Stainless Steel ARP head studs. They don't break off like OEM ones do. This job sucks when you snap off factory studs. Use FACTORY TORQUE SPECS! 19-21 lbs (even on ARP hardware) for the M8 nuts. 21-23 lbs on the outer two M10 nuts if you have a 2g.
4) if you have to replace one, just get the EVO manifold. It dwarfs both the 1g and 2g. The turbo flange is bigger, so put my turbo port & polish video to use. It doesn't need to be ported like the 2g part does, and it's a thicker cast making it last much longer. If you have the cash, go ahead and buy the Forced Performance cast manifold. You won't regret it.
5) The only people that will know why this video is called Manifold Swap #1 are the people who read the info. I have a brand new FP manifold that's being ceramic coated, and I had bought it prior to this failure, not anticipating that it would happen. Lucky me. I hated where the tubular bits ended up in my engine bay, and they're preventing me from re-installing my polished valve cover. The only reason I put that thing on my car was because the 2g stock manifold was ugly. Ugly, sure... but it works just as good and more reliably than these tubular things. If you buy a manifold, buy a CAST manifold.
Polishing a 2g GSX 4g63 Turbo cylinder head & manifold
The stainless steel manifold had never been polished, but the nice thing about stainless is you don't have to do all the prep-sanding that you do with Aluminum before being able to polish it. Aluminum takes 10x the effort with sanding than it does to polish. Fortunately I had already done all of that to the head and coolant neck back in '05, so all it needed was black rouge to come back to life. Stainless is much more corrosion resistant, but tends to blue itself with heat over time. I think it cleaned up pretty well!
DSM 4g63 Engine Build
This is the video I made for the rebuild I did on my 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD. It took us over 6 months of hard work consisting of many almost sleepless nights, and countless frustrating moments that almost made us walk away.
Engine Work Includes: honed cylinders, decked head and block, head rebuilt, new timing components, water pump, arp main and headstuds, acl race bearings, cometic mls headgasket, new engine gasket set, stock pistons and rods, odds and end stuff.