How to Remove a 2.8 V6 Engine from a Pontiac FIero step-by-step (HD)
This is a video giving a visual step-by-step process on how to remove the
2.8 liter V6 engine from a Pontiac Fiero using basic tools. The only tools
that you may need to rent, borrow or buy is an engine hoist and some 4
wheel moving dolly's. I've attempted to make this video as visual as
possible so that anyone could see how to remove the engine using basic
This video can also be a useful guide when reinstalling the engine as is
shows how things were disconnected. Most of the disassembly steps can be
done in any order with the exception of a few parts.
Please comment and share with other Fiero enthusiasts.
If I do not know how to do something, I usually turn to YouTube FIRST to
see if there is a video on it. Since I use YouTube to teach me things I
figured I'd pay it forward and post videos of what I know.
My '84 Fiero (Bought It New, Had It Ever Since)
Its on-again, off-again development took 6 years before it finally saw the
light of day. Like almost every inexpensive sports car through history, it
used numerous components from high-volume production cars to keep costs
Pontiac's crack marketing department predicted total sales of 60,000 that
first year. Imagine their surprise when 30,000 people placed orders for the
car sight unseen. By the time of its official introduction in September of
1983, there was a six-month waiting list. By model-year's end, 136,840
Fieros had flowed out the doors of its Pontiac, MI assembly plant, a record
for any mid-engined car.
It was chosen as the Pace Car for the Indianapolis 500 that year, powered
by a Pontiac 2.7L Super Duty 4 making 232 h.p. The 2000 Pace Car replicas
sold to the public had the standard 92 h.p. Iron Duke 4.
Its Enduraflex body panels, bolted to a driveable space frame, never dented
and never rusted. The lower door and fender panels would even bounce back
from minor impacts. What GM learned about these body panels with the Fiero
was applied to its first-generation minivans and its Saturn line of small
This one was my first, and only new car. 29 years (as of April 9, 2013),
165,000 miles, (27,000 miles on this engine), two owners (for the first
four years, the bank owned it. LOL). I ordered it in October 1983 from
Townsend Pontiac in Merrillville, IN; it finally came in April 1984.
Mine is a Sport Coupe (the middle model), red with a gray interior and
alloy wheels, and looks exactly like the Fieros Pontiac used in their print
and TV advertising in '84. For this model year only, the engine cover
grille was cast magnesium. The rear trunk held 5 upright sacks of
groceries, the front compartment two more. (You listening, Solstice?)
It went 50,000 miles the first 3 years, thanks to a long daily commute; it
took eight years to go the next 50,000. It took another 14 years after that
to get to 140,000+ miles. Not that it had an easy life, being a daily
driver in Chicago winters, where they throw salt on the street if a snow
cloud passes overhead (notice I didn't say it actually had to snow.)
It's a 30-footer; from that distance, it could pass for new. As you get
closer, you notice the stone chips, the clearcoat peeling off the wheels,
the ripped driver's seat, and the swirl marks in the paint. But then, if
any of you look like you did 26 years ago, raise your hands. Those of you
who weren't even born 26 years ago can recuse yourselves.
It's on its second hood medallion; the first and only time I left the car
parked outside my house overnight in 1987, someone tried to pry the first
one off, and nearly succeeded. This is its second clutch and its second set
of headlight motors, and its third set of tires (Eagle GT2's -- Goodyear no
longer makes 215/60R14 tires, so my next set will have to be BF Goodrich).
The old Iron Duke had to be replaced at 138,500 miles; with the new Duke,
rebuilt by ATK, it's even faster
than it was when new. The 4-speed has gone all the way
Other than that, it's original and bone stock, an increasing rare commodity
in the Fiero world of turbo-V6 and
small-block V8 engine swaps and one-off wheels, bodies and colors.
The only real problem I've had with this car is crappy repairs by
mechanics, both dealer and independent, who shouldn't have been allowed to
change a trunk light by themselves.
The Recall was the worst. The mechanics at my friendly local Pontiac dealer
would loosen parts to get to other parts and forget to tighten them back,
causing a noticeable rattle (hardly the car's fault) and refused to take
responsibility for their shoddy work; I ended up tightening those parts
After 16 years of these kinds of repairs, through my local Fiero club,
Northern Illinois Fiero Enthusiasts, I finally found a dealer mechanic,
Dave Armstrong, who knew what the hell he was doing; he's the reason my car
is still on the road. I found out from him that even when Fieros were still
being made, it was OPTIONAL for Pontiac mechanics to be trained to work on
them. If you brought your Fiero in for service, it was strictly luck
whether you got a qualified technician (like Dave)or a clueless hack.
A possible consequence of getting a dealer hack, going to an independent
mechanic or doing a backyard DIY repair? If the Fiero's cooling system was
not flushed and refilled according to a specific procedure (clearly
outlined in the owner's manual and, I would imagine, the dealer shop
manual), the car ended up with HALF the antifreeze/coolant it was designed
to hold. And there were engine fires? Gee, I wonder why.
Dave was the go-to Fiero guru at Jacobs Twin Pontiac in Chicago; now he's
got his own garage near Harlem and Irving Park, doing a land-office
business. It couldn't happen to a more deserving guy. He'll get your Fiero
(or any other GM car) running right.
Contact him at 773-282-1444.
Performance Clutch - Explained
What is a performance clutch? Clutch kit? How does a performance clutch
work? A performance clutch basically involves three changes over
traditional organic clutches. This video features a Yonaka performance
clutch kit. A performance clutch has a higher clamping force on the
pressure plate (via the diaphragm spring). Performance clutches use
different materials which can absorb less heat and that don't lose
performance at higher temperatures. Finally, performance clutches use a
"puck" design, 3 puck, 4 puck, 6 puck, which increase the pressure on the
friction material, to prevent slip.
Performance Clutch Kit:
Clutches - http://youtu.be/pJj8NvDUSFs
Multi-Plate Clutches - http://youtu.be/SQvFg4WbdZ4
Please feel free to rate, comment, and subscribe!
And don't forget to check out my Facebook page:
Also check out my official website: Make suggestions, participate in
forums, learn through logically ordered lessons, read FAQs, and plan your
Now on Twitter:
NEW VIDEO EVERY WEDNESDAY!
Fiero electric motor transaxle first test
This is a major milestone in my 1986 Pontiac Fiero electric car conversion
project. After numerous delays getting the correct adapting hardware for
the new motor to the old transaxle, we finally mounted the clutch and motor
assembly onto the transaxle and frame of the car. With everything in place,
I applied a regular 12 car battery to the motor and amazingly, it ran
without a hitch! See my website (www.roboticmayhem.com) for more
information on this project.
Before replacing your car's clutch, check the master / slave cylinder. Could Save Big $$.
Before replacing your car's clutch, check the master / slave cylinder.
Could Save Big $$.
On the way to work one day I noticed that my clutch pedal was softer than
Over time, the clutch pedal got softer, spongier, and it was harder to
The clutch would engage or disengage about 4 inches off the floor, then it
was 3 inches, then 2 inches, finally 1 off the floor and I couldn't shift
into first gear and all the other gears were very tight and there was some
My first thought was that I was going to have to spend at least 450 bucks
to replace the clutch, pressure plate, throw out bearing.
Basically, all the things that you'd need replace for a clutch job.
After some thought and research, I realized it was either the clutch slave
clutch master cylinder.
When I was able to shift gears, there was NO slipping, grinding, whining,
and the gears shifted easily.
If you have slipping, grinding, whining and the it's hard to get into gear,
you may need a clutch. Provided your clutch pedal is acting like usual.
But you should check fluid levels in the clutch master / slave cylinders.
If the fluid is low add some to it, look for leaks.
If you add fluid and it goes away, chances are you have a leak.
That may be the cause of your problem.
It is possible that you may have to adjust the clutch cable.
That wasn't the case for me. The cable was fine and still tight.
I've been pretty vague on actual specifics in this video.
It's more for general information. Or really basic troubleshooting.
It's something to check before you commit to a new clutch..
My repair was 30 bucks, Not 450 Bucks!
Very happy about that!
Anybody else ever replaced a clutch master / slave cylinder?