Basically its a time line of my whole motor rebuild for my 1987 Iroc-Z chevy Camaro. Its now a re-crosshatched and decked 357ci block with a Scat 9000 crankshaft. Hypereutectic Pistons, 062 Vortec Heads, Delta Cam 211In 211Ex 440 lift. port and polished heads and intake manifold. New bearings, Rings, Ect.. its my first motor rebuild and i cant wait to get it on the road! ~~UPDATE the Camaro has reached 10,000 miles!
Replacing valve stem seals in 305 H.O. small block chevy from 1986 Monte Carlo SS
I'm putting the original 305HO back in the Monte after taking the ZZ3 out for my Iroc project. This is mainly to make the car mobile but it may end up tagged with this engine for a while. Previous owner reported that this 305 has over 100k miles on it and has been out of the car since 1997. He said it smoked during startup and sure enough the valve stem seals were worn out. Hopefully this will fix the issue.
Firing up our first sbc 350 rebuild
This is the first start up of our first engine rebuild. My brother and I basically rebuilt this small block 350 ourselves. We aren't all that experienced with rebuilding engines so we were a bit nervous.
It has an RV cam and just headers (no mufflers at the moment)
Engine Rebuild class (the engine WORKS!!)
Our nasty Chevy 350 runs.
Motor: Chevy 350, 4 bolt main, .30 over,
Left head: 350 head, Right head: Chevy 305.
History: Came from a local junk yard, all bearing were fried, rings shot. Oil vally was painted a pretty gold (old racer trick to make the oil flow better : Didn't work)
Last owner just frankenstein it together.
Goal: needed to fire-up and runs for a few secs.
Summer class 2009 glendale community college AZ
Looking at my Chevy 383 Ported "Revised" Pro Comp Aluminum Heads rat rod sbc
I was asked what I do to port a set of Revised Pro Comp heads.
There are so many things to touch upon but I'll just mention what I did on these to be quick.
A little about me,,I've been building engines for 30 years now. I've been porting heads about 20 years. I try to keep up with whats going on and I continually study online.
I buy new books and engine building software(Desk-top Dyno/Dragstrip,etc).
I'm impressed with the software results.
Anyway,,When I saw these heads online I wanted to see just how they stacked up to Darts,Brodix,Edelbrock,etc.
I had also read where people were bashing them.
Some said they were cheaply made castings, others bashed 'em because they're made overseas.
Then later they re-emerged as "New & Improved".
I have a friend that sells them online and he built up a 383 and we ported a set and they did very well,,especially for the {lack of) money.
When I first looked at 'em I didn't like the areas in the ports that are under the valve seats.
I point out the areas at the start of the vid.
There are small areas under the valve seats that are noticably machined away. It's nothing to be concerned with as none have ever failed that I know of.
There are great photos online that show these heads aggressively CNC Ported,they're so huge that the Intake Ports run into Int bolt hole bosses(I can email you the pics if you need them). Thats too big as they'll have to run sleeves in the mounting holes.
Something that I recommend too is to look at the ports online of the major manufactuers of racing heads,,or if available look at ones being built at a local machine shop.
When I port a set of heads I make a thickness gauge out of coat hangers. When finished it looks like an "X".
It accurately reflects how thick the metal is while porting so that you don't go too far and it helps to get ports consistent ( I'll add that 'how too' later).
One unusual thing that I do is lap the valves to the seats with an electric drill motor. It's reversible and takes just a second for each valve and seat to show the correct "grey ring". It takes about 3 minutes to do each head. The results are outstanding with the seats showing concentricity.
Most local machine shops just cut the valves, then the seats,,then assemble them.
If you do the solvent test they usually leak,,sometimes badly. Thats cylinder leak down,,less power,smoking,blow by,etc.
So you get what you pay for.
What I mean is that I ALWAYS disassemble the stuff at home and inspect the work. When I find a problem I take it back to the machine shop.Most machine shops don't like a guy who knows how to inspect the work. A good machine shop is really hard to find not just the work but the people there.
I know of a few local machine shops in central Arkansas that will do bad work for one customer and great work for another intentially.A lot of times they're racing rivals. Remember, when you get crappy work and run it ~ it'll run crappy or not work,,or last very long.
So when you take the stuff apart at home you can see who your friends are. I think it's important to spend your money where the quality of the work is at the forefront of the business.Thats why I drive to a good place with modern machines and trained people. You can have an intelligent conversation and get what you ask and pay for.
One more thing,,Try my drill method for lapping the valves,,it works really smoothly.Second thing,,the old notion of polishing the ports has been proven wrong scientifically,especially on the Intakes. They need a slight texture,,look up why.Too much to go into here.
Theres even guys who epoxy pebbles or marbles on the bottoms of their racing boats to ride more on air,,reducing friction.
On the motor,, I'll start the engine in the next few days and then later toss it into an 86 S-10. It'll have an old school turbo 350 with shift kit and an old Vega Stall Convertor.
I can port a set of these heads in a day and a half for about $300.oo The Iron stock type heads are harder and take more time and cost a little more. I've ported about 30 sets now and got to run half of them and got to see how they do. Porting works! and makes quite a difference.
Thanks for looking.
Engine rebuild part 2
setting the crank in place and checking to be sure everything clears
one badass sbc chevy 350 2008
1/18/2013
I'm not building 350's anymore
I build strickly 383 chevys with all new parts no more rebuilt or used blocks and heads
I start with a new dart block and new pro aluminium heads I have 4 different packages stage 1 stage 2 stage 3 stage 4 and stage 5 between 375 HP - 555 HP your choose all between 5000 - $ 6800 dollars shipped to your door if your with in the 48 states.
heres a pic/video of the motor i had for sale..it is now sold and runs 11.85 in the guys malibu with a msd distributor different carb intake a lumpyer cam this video is for fun...and for all you engine builders out there the way it sits in the video she would do a good high 12 low 13 in a heavy car...you may think yours is better...but mine is all new top to bottom and costs a third to build compared to what half of you charge but for the real people that can appreciate it thanx for watching
Engine Block Cleaning
http://www.TiredIronVideos.com/
Learn how to clean your engine block properly.
