3 years progress on my 1 7 mk4 fiesta
this is my progress vid for my mk4 fiesta...the engine is no longer in the
car, its sitting in the garage after a full rebuild having throttle bodies
should be in and mapped by april 09 and at fitp this year......
Old Top Gear, Autumn Series, 1997, Episode 1, 1/2
The first prog' in the Autumn '97 series Jeremy Clarkson tests the 'new'
Ford Puma, There is also a feature where the rector of Basildon had some
roads closed to raise money by featuring some amazing old racing cars.
Ford Fiesta 1.0 Ecoboost 125PS Acceleration 0-100 0-200 Top Speed Test
Here we have the new Ford Fiesta (MK7) 1.00 EcoBoost Titanium from the model year 2014
facelift. We test the acceleration 0-100, 0-200 km/h and make a top speed
test. We drive the version with 125PS. The top speed is specified to work
at 196 Km/h. So this little car is fast. If you want better performance,
you should take the Ford Fiesta ST 1.6l EcoBoostturbo
and 182 hp.
If you like this video, please visit my youtube channel for sound, drive &
grip, acceleration and top speed videos, car reviews, tests and much more.
Red MK4 Fiesta
My 1998 MK4 Fiesta, Video showing before & after of the modifications I
hatton's shawspeed powered zetec s
1.6 16v zetec se,1.7 puma inlet,longlife cat back,miltek 4-2-1 manifold and
decat,ss4 cams,hd big endbolts,omex rev limiter,omex launch control,
for now :P
Ford Fiesta, Ka, Puma heater control valve - failure of pattern-part HCV
This is an in-depth analysis of why a cheap pattern-part Heater Control
Valve failed after a few months normal use.
I've returned to the subject of Ford heater control valves (HCV) because
it's an important topic and one that affects several Ford models sold in
the UK, Europe and in the US. Earlier this year I made several 'how to'
videos on how to replace your Fiesta, Ka, or Puma heater control valve
which are well known to fail in the closed position so no cabin heat or
open position (full heat). There have been incidents where HCV failure has
also been put down to fragments of the unit breaking up and clogging the
cooling system but the common reason for HCV faults is seal failure which
causes either coolant leak from unit 'tell-tale' hole or simple reluctance
to work due to coolant leaking past seals into the solenoid and either
corroding it solid or affecting ability for the coil to provide the
magnetic field needed to move the plunger open or shut. Older HCV's were
sealed so even if it failed the coolant would stay in the system. Later
units have a small hole which allows coolant to flow out if the seals have
let go - which is what happened to my Fiesta a few months ago. This was the
second HCV (bought from an online auction site for £14). In hindsight I
should have bought a Ford or equivilent OEM part as the pattern-part was
cheaply made. As you will see from this video the quality of the materials
for the seals is dubious and the design is such that the main circular
gasket or diaphragm incorporates a very thin extruded seal which wraps
around the plunger stem. This almost paper-thin rubber has torn thus
allowing pressurised hot coolant to flow into the solenoid body and out the
drain hole. This hole is large enough to almost empty the car's coolant
tank in less than 3 miles. I only discovered it after suddenly smelling hot
coolant inside the car while driving. Luckily I managed to top it up and
limp home. The basic Fiesta doesn't have a temperature gauge but it does
have an engine overheat warning light. Luckily this didn't come on as I
spotted the leak in time. Incidentally this HCV is also used in the Mk I
Ford Ka, the Puma and certain Fiesta models. My Fiesta was a 1999 1.3
Endura-E OHV unit.
Several Ford based forums including the Honest John forum mention the HCV
causing overheating. This is either down to the leaking problem I just
described or it's due to pieces of the valve or unit breaking off and
clogging up the narrow radiator, matrix, or cylinder head coolant passages.
In normal operation when the HCV is closed such as during the summer
months, coolant doesn't flow around the heater matrix. Because the system
is in parallel the flow around the engine and radiator isn't affected.
When some owners have reported their heater has failed and the car has
overheated, there are usually other issues with the cooling system such as;
1)Too low a coolant level caused by bad maintenance, or leak from HCV or
other component of the cooling system.
2)Incorrect antifreeze concentration or system being filled with normal
3)Severe rust and limescale build up - especially in the iron block/head
OHV Endura- E engine
5)Hose collapse on low pressure side of the pump caused by old soft hoses.
6)Engine cooling fan failure. Normally spotted when stuck in traffic
7)Pump falt - impeller worn out due to cavitation, plasic impeller
separating from shaft, pump drive belt snapping or slipping.
When my car's original HCV failed in the closed position, the car operated
normally but the heater didn't work. There was no overheating because the
rest of the system was in good condition. Don't underestimate how little it
takes to clog up a cooling system. Think of it a bit like your kettle at
home. Even a thin layer of limescale will reduce heat transfer from head
and block to the water. Add some rust and and low antifreeze concentration
and you can see why engines can overheat.
Antifreeze not only protects against freezing but also from boiling. If
coolant boils it produces air bubbles and vapour which leads to airlocks,
lack of heat transfer and localised thermal stress - especially around
cylinder head. Antifreeze also inhibits corrosion, helps lube the water
pump seals. If you mix your own coolant, use de-ionised or soft water -
never tap water except in an emergency - and aim for a 50:50 ratio of
antifreeze to water. You can buy de-ionised water from retailers that sell
car batteries. Halfords sell five litre containers of de-ionised water.
They also sell ready mixed antifreeze/summercoolant so check your car
handbook to see what type your's needs. Most Fords need the long life red
coolant. Dont mix red with the old blue or green antifreeze. It will gel up
and cause flow and cooling problems.
Anyway, thanks for watching and reading this, drop me a message or a
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