Desooting the intake preheating pipe of an aircooled VW
A blocked pre-heating pipe on a VW aircooled engine may be a major reason for stalling engines shortly after start, especially under humid and or cold weather conditions.
During the restoration of the engine it is quite often forgotten to decarbonize the pre-heating pipe of the intake pipe. You will certainly have heard or read about methods to 'decoke or desoot' this preheating pipe, whatever it is called.
I find it the easiest way to knock the preheating pipe with a hammer so that you 'generate' some trembling of the steel causing soot and rust to come off from the inside of the preheating pipe.
To ensure trembling (resonance) of the steel pipe you can better hold it in one hand and hammer it with your other hand . Do not tighten the pipe in a work bench since this will prevent the steel pipe to 'tremble'.
Knocking with the hammer may take about half an hour to gain a good result, so don't give up !! Do not knock too hard to avoid damages or dents in the pipe. Mind NOT to hammer too hard on the aluminium casted part either (which holds the intake pipe and the preheating pipe together) to avoid cracking of the aluminium. The video shows how much debris came out of this one pipe.
So this way of 'desooting' is worth doing in my opinion, rather than making holes in the pipe which have to be closed by welding afterwards.
Once the hammering operation is finished you can respray the entire intake pipe assembly with zinc spray so that is becomes a genuine look.
After re-installing the intake pipe on the engine you will notice that the left hand and right hand side of the preheating pipe will have the same temperature after the engine has been running for about 4 to 5 minutes from cold (or even in less time) !
Good luck !!!!
Alfred - Belgium
Air Cooled VW Boring for 94's
Here is a real-time video of an air-cooled 1600 VW block being bored for
94mm cylinders at Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine Shop. (949) 631-6376
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Classic VW Engine Rebuild, By Last Chance Auto Restore.com
We began with a dual port 1600 cc engine from a 1973 Volkswagen Beetle.
The engine ran with a miss and was smoking a bit . After performing a
compression test,(both wet and dry) , we determined the crankshaft and
bearings were fine.
We replaced the pistons, pots & rings. We had the valves redone and made
several upgrades along the way.....
VW, CROSS FIRE,OIL INJECTED,MANIFOLD HEATER, AND OIL COOLER
THIS IS THE FINAL DESIGN AFTER OVER A YEAR OF TESTING. BESIDES A 10%
increase in HP, the manifold is now oil injected to eliminate any chance of
carb icing at any cold condition and benifits the engine by cooling the
oil and is returned to the valve covers where is again mists to cool the Exhaust valve stem and springs at this
point its about 100 degrees cooler. They are made in batches of 10 units
..they flow fuel extremely well and will work on any vw upright.including
buses and ghias. with clearance to spare.the runners are 1.1/4inch in
diameter .. and flow 1900 meters. of air .. more that enough for any
engine.made... really big engines flow about 1400m . No special alt or gen
brackets are necessary ..this manifold fits perfectly. Deposits are taken
by the oldest recieved first They come in silver ceramic coating only the
price is 575.00 dollars with a 100 percent refundable 100.00 dollar
1967 VW Bus Engine Backfiring
I just reinstalled the newly cleaned intake manifold and generator - but
I've still got problems. After getting the thing to idle, and testing w/
WD-40, I suspect a vacuum leak in the right end casting. I will pull it
off and try to refit it correctly.
Check out my blog for more progress updates!
New 1600cc vw beetle engine startup
Here a video of my new 1600cc beetle engine.
The video's were taken 1year ago.
This engine sits in my 1965 bug now (watch my other video's).
Engine rebuild by Leo De Rijck-'.
Intro by Wosser1 Productions: http://www.youtube.com/user/wosser3
Thanks for watching!