Strange noise coming from the engine compartment - starts about 20 secs in - seems to start after when the engine's good and warm but not
related to revs. Comes and goes - any ideas?
Update 30/11/08. A few weeks after I posted this clip, one of the idler pulleys seized and the drive belt disintegrated at a repair cost, inc recovery, of £250! However, this was NOT the cause of the noise on this clip... the clutch bearing on the AC compressor was found to be worn - this needed a new compressor - £250 if you hunt around - and a further £180 to fit and re-gas. Owning Saabs is apparently not cheap :-)
Saab 9-5 climate control repairs
My repair of the dual zone climate control system, where one side was stuck
on heater only. I used the on-board diagnostics to identify problems. Both
sides required work for a complete repair.
1999 SAAB 9-5 Whining noise (The dreaded sludge?)
A short clip of our SAAB 9-5 2.0T which has developed a rather annoying
high pitched whine until warm.
This problem (from what I've been reading) stems from oil sludge building
up in the sump which will eventually starve the engine of oil. Heres to
hoping its not quite that serious.
The car is a 1999 and has 156k miles on the clock.
theSAABguy Repairs: 2002 SAAB 9-5 Blower Motor or Fan Speed Controller
In this video I replace a Fan Speed Controller on a 2002 SAAB 9-5. I began
the job believing it could just be the blower motor (which is easier), but
after plugging in the good blower motor I diagnosed the Fan Speed
Controller to be the true culprit. Here is a link of the part which needed
to be replaced: http://www.eeuroparts.com/Main/PartDetail.aspx?id=4869319.
You can follow the directions as seen in this video for both the blower
motor and fan speed controller. However I don't show what I did under the
dash which was the trickiest part.
Enjoy your SAAB.
AC compressor clutch bearing replacement
General procedure to remove and reinstall a/c compressor clutch bearings.
For compressor tools and parts visit our website at
Clutch Removal Tools:
Visit us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/centuryautoair
1999 Saab 9-3 SE Convertible - NO START
After a head gasket replacement, my car will still not start. The timing
looks ok (the Exhaust camshaft might
be off by one tooth) There seems to be fuel getting to the engine, the
battery is good, spark plugs are new. What could be wrong with my car?
Saab 93 Turbo X quick drive
I fall in love with this car everytime I drive it. For people who hate
Saab, drive one. I'm sure you'll change your mind.
How to Reset Saab Trionic 7 Throttle Body Limp Home Mode
Instructional video on how to reset Saab Trionic 7 throttle body in limp
home mode. Applies to any 9-3 or 9-5 Saab with a black Direct Ignition
Cassette and an electronic thottle body. For US market vehicles, any 9-5
and 9-3s from 2000-2002 and 2003 convertibles. www.strictlysaab.com
How To - PDR Paintless Dent Removal / Repair Training Tutorial Saab / Lerning Dents
http://www.denttime.com We quietly demonstrate our line board in action
with the art of paintless dent removal. From door dings to big dents, we
are passionate about our trade. Coming soon, professional training tutorial
PDR videos. We perform paintless dent repair in the following areas: San
Diego, Orange County, Los Angeles, Riverside, Temecula, San Francisco and
1999 Saab 9-3 - Acceleration Problems
My saab started stalling (the engine acts as if it stops running, and then
starts running again). This causes the rpms to fluctuate (sometimes going
down 1500 rpm before coming back up). However, if I let the engine idle,
there is no stalling. The longer I drive it, the worse it gets, until it
stalls when slight pressure is applied to the accellerator. When I turn
off the car and start it back up, it runs normal for a little bit. This
problem has been getting progressively worse and now the car isn't
Also, when the accelerator is pressed hard from idle, there is a dip in the
rpms. However, when in park I can raise the rpms to any level and it will
stay there without fluctuating.
The computer is throwing the code P0108, the map sensor is showing higher
pressure than expected. I have replaced the map sensor and all vacuum
lines connected to the throttle body (they were in bad shape). After doing
both of the above, the car seemed to work fine, then 30 miles down the road
it was back to the same problem. After this I started throwing parts at
it, and replaced the fuel filter, the fuel pressure regulator, and the
spark plugs, I also cleaned out the throttle body. These had no effect.
Just now, I used a baby snot bulb connected to turbo bypass valve to test for leaks, but it
didn't seem to be losing vacuum.