Connecting Rod Weight Reduction

Here's another weight reduction method used by John @ Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine. Check it out!

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Connecting Rod Balancing
See how connecting rods are balanced by John Edwards @ Costa Mesa R&D, 949-631-6376

1500 hp vs. 500 hp Connecting Rods
Follow me on Instagram: In this episode, a 1500 hp rated forged billet I-beam connecting rod is compared against a 500 hp rated stock cast connecting rod. The geometry, stronger material, and lower mass help to increase the load carrying capacity of the new connecting rod. |MY MODS| ENGINE - BOSS 5.0 cast iron block - Manley Pro Series I-beam rods - Manley forged pistons (with MMR coating) - MMR 4.75 stroker crank forged 4340 - MMR/Ford Racing Stage 3 ported heads - MMR/Comp Stage 3 turbo cams - Livernois cam phaser lockouts - Ford Racing 3V air intake manifold (carbon hydro-dipped) - APR 2000 head studs, rod bolts, side bolts, main cap studs - Ford Racing twin 62 mm throttle body - C&L 95 mm cold air intake - MMR billet oil pump gears - MMR 7 quart oil pan (red) - Moroso welded aluminum valve covers - Powder coated timing cover (black) - MSD Blaster Coils - Steeda aluminum belt tensioner - Romac Pro Harmonic Balancer TRANSMISSION/DRIVELINE - Tremec T-56 Magnum XL 6-speed (Ford Racing packaged) - SFI certified bell housing - McLeod RXT 1200 twin-disk clutch - McLeod aluminum 8-bolt flywheel with steel insert - APR 2000 flywheel bolts - JPC clutch line upgrade - Driveshaft shop one-piece aluminum driveshaft (for T-56 transmission) WHEELS/TIRES - Wheels: Forgestar CF5V 19” diameter x 12” wide with 6 mm offset wheels (all four corners) - Front tires: Continental Extreme Contact P305/30ZR19 (102Y) - Rear tires: Kumho Ecsta V720 ACR P355/30ZR19 (99Y) - McGard black lug nuts with locks ENGINE BAY - Trufiber carbon fiber full-length radiator cover - Moroso welded aluminum radiator expansion tank - Moroso welded aluminum power steering tank - Ford Racing Boss 302 style strut tower brace (carbon dipped) EXTERIOR - Trufiber widebody fender flares - Trufiber carbon fiber decklid panel - Raxiom smoked projector lights (GEN 5 style) - Raxiom smoked vector tail lights with white diffusers (GEN 6) - CDC chin spoiler (carbon fiber wrapped) - CDC chin splitter (carbon fiber wrapped) - MMD ducktail spoiler (carbon fiber wrapped) - SVE Bullet style grill - Trufiber 3 inch cowl hood - Custom painted hood, roof, trunk - MGP red brake caliper covers INTERIOR - Brushed aluminum interior kit - Autometer Nexus Boost, fuel pressure, A/F ratio gauges - Autometer Nexus trans. temp, oil temp, Exhaust temp gauges - Speed of Sound A-pillar gauge pod - Speed of Sound dash gauge pod FUEL - Kenne Bell Boost-a-pump - Ford Racing 47 lb/hr injectors COOLING - Mishimoto performance radiator - Ford Racing performance radiator fan - Mishimoto 170 F thermostat - Mishimoto silicon hose kit (black) CHASSIS/SUSPENSION - Eibach Pro suspension kit (with sportline springs in front) - BMR tubular K-member - BMR tubular front lower control arms (A-arms) - BMR adjustable rear upper control arm - BMR upper control arm mount - BMR adjustable rear lower control arms (spherical & poly) - BMR lower control arm relocation brackets - J&M adjustable panhard bar Exhaust - BBK tuned length shorty headers - BBK 2.75 inch X-pipe (catted and off-road, can switch) - MBRP 3 inch catback Exhaust TUNING - Custom tune from Chris Groves @ The Dyno Edge PLANNED FUTURE MODS - turbohorsepower twin turbo kit - Boost controller - Injector Dynamics 1300 fuel injectors - 1000+ hp return style fuel system (not sure which brand yet) - Stronger axles - New differential & gears - APR Performance carbon fiber diffuser - APR Performance carbon fiber side skirts - APR Performance carbon fiber rear lip splitters

Honda D16 Connecting Rod Lightening
Watch as John Edwards @ Costa Mesa R&D Automotive Machine Shop takes a set of D16 Honda rods and lightens them on the engine lathe. He removed over 40 grams of material! (949) 631-6376 Don't forget o 'Click' and SUBSCRIBE!

Hyundai Assembly 4 - Balancing Rods
I edited this video to its finished state, and RojoDelChocolate handed me a track with no collaboration that was the right length and rhythm. I literally did nothing to the video once the audio track was dropped in, and that's just how it went. I can't believe it. It's like when you're pumping gas into a Ford F150 full-blast and release the pump handle to stop right on $80.00 even. He's got more musical talent in his pinky fingernail than I have mechanical ability in my spleen, appendix and tonsils combined. Thank you RojoDelChocolate. Here I'm cleaning up the fly cuts, balancing the piston and rod assemblies and preparing to double-check my valve clearance. I had to start by cleaning up and re-lubricating every part that was removed to prevent contamination of the assembly. This is the tedious part of doing the job right. We learned that this whole engine assembly was pretty far-gone in previous videos, way past its service limits, so making it fit and work again takes extensive testing, machining, and re-testing to ensure all of the parts fit. This is likely the most challenging build I will perform on any car in my driveway. It has been so far. But because I have not demonstrated the basics of engine balancing beyond what a machine shop has to do to zero balance a flat-plane crankshaft, I thought I'd give it its own video right here with one of the test assemblies. When you balance rods by themselves, you balance the big-end and the pin-bore separately. You get weights of both ends of the rod using a jig and a process that I don't demonstrate in this video. The reason you do this is because the position of the weight behaves differently relative to its distance from the crankshaft pin. Weight on the big end has a greater effect than if there's extra weight on the pin bore, but they both matter as do their combined weights. The best balanced engines have every part of the piston and rod assemblies balanced separately within .1 grams using the method I just described, and not the method shown in this video. The method shown here involves weighing ALL of the piston and rod assembly components together, and then taking out the difference just on the casting lines of the connecting rod. They were already off-balance and had never been balanced before. This is an improvement, not perfection. It's still something this engine needed to have done. I'm not using the big-end/small-end method here because these pistons are pressed-on and if I try to remove them from the rod, it will shatter the piston skirts. No thank you. I'm not replacing these pistons. The reason I grind down the casting lines is because it's weight is in a neutral territory, extending from the big end to the small end. It's easier to take an even amount off when you grind across the entire length of the rods. This method leaves a lot up to assumption as there's no way to determine which end of the rod is heavier, or if the weight is in a wrist pin or piston. All this does is ensure the crankshaft is spinning an even amount of weight on all 4 of its rod journals. Grams of weight turn into pounds of force at idle speeds. My goal is to remove that vibration at any and all rotations per minute if I can. So I make them all the same within 1.0 grams of their combined weight. If you're assembling and balancing all NEW parts, not parts that have worn together and need to go back in the same holes... you will have to balance the individual parts and pieces. This is the poor man's method. Even with the new parts you still do the poor man's method once you're done balancing the individual parts and assemble them, but sometimes when you're lucky with the new parts, you can just swap around the rods, pins and fasteners to balance the weights on each assembly and not have to grind anything at all. That's awfully nice when that happens. You know the Hyundai won't let me get away with that. Removing stress risers might help strengthen the rods, but it's not what I'm after here or else I would have removed the whole casting line from all of them. These rods should be fine for my goals. My goal is to remove just enough from all of the fatter rods (weight wise) to match the lightest one. Balancing an inline 4 engine with a flat-plane crank is easy if you have already balanced the crankshaft. This crank was already balanced for the GSX motor on a previous occasion. It's zero'd out. In order to balance the rotating assembly, all you do is make the piston and rod assemblies weigh identically to its neighbors. Just 3 grams of weight can produce over a hundred pounds of lateral forces at red-line so this is an aspect of engine building that you should not overlook. All you need to do is get all of them within 1 gram. The scale I'm using measures whole grams, so that's all I can do anyway. This method is acceptable for balancing a rotating assembly as long as you're smart about how to remove the weight.