Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo powered Datsun 1200 Ute by Jett Racing. Racing in the Pro Compact class at the 2012 Sport Compact Brisbane Jamboree.
Nissan SR20 dyno tuning - Adicted Performance
Adam's Nissan SR20 pumps out over 500hp on pump fuel and even more on race
octane at Adicted Performance. The 2L engine features a forged bottom end,
upgraded cams and valve-train components and is Boosted by a Garrett GTX35-63R turbo and Haltech Platinum EFI system. Built to
be a reliable street engine, the Nissan will make its way into a Datsun
PAC Performance 20B turbo Mazda 6 SP
PAC Performance giving their new 20B triple rotary turbo powered Mazda 6 a blast at the Sport
Compact Brisbane Jamboree. The car immediately ran a personal best pass of
Wild Mercedes - Blown V8 powered
A blown small block V8 certainly wakes this old Merc up and charges hard to
an 8-second pass at the APSA Pro Street Shootout at Willowbank Raceway,
BOOSTING a V8 Chevy - KANARIS Engines
Small block Chev V8 on the Dyno in naturally aspirated and
turbocharged form. Built by KANARIS
Engines, the 380-cubic inch motor features much required strong internals,
a Garrett GT47/88 turbo, custom water Intercooler and blow through C&S
Specialties carb on pump unleaded fuel. The engine will be going into a
Holden HQ 4-door street car. [ http://www.kanarisengines.com ]
Creative Commons music license CC 3.0
Music: Severed Fifth
4G63 Mitsubishi Powered Mustang - WTF?!
Never would have thought we would see a 122ci 4G63 Mitsubishi powered Fox
Body Mustang when we went
to Georgia for the LIGHTS OUT V drag race (DVD Pre Order -
This unique x275 car, built by CDub Racing out of Louisville, KY caught
everyones attention at the race just by the freak noise that it put out
compared to the rest of the field.
Full article on the car -
traktor racing volvo terror
out drift with Volvo terror with b21et engine from Volvo 240 turbo first test
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1wAYXPNVdfE&feature=plcp builder named
Rickard Nilsson filmmaker named Mikael Karlsson swe news
Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an
original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate.
My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I
do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again.
Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead
and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings
will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a
hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first.
The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows:
Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust
and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral
spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale.
The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence
happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from
powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If
following these instructions to the letter of the law.
Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine.
You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm
not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I
don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the
windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down
This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the
same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent.
You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY
CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in
this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that
I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm
learning about it just like the rest of you.
2600hp Ford Falcon??? The DIRTY BIRD
One badass bird! This 1968 Ford Falcon running on 275 Drag Radials lays
down around 2600hp through its 449ci Small Block Ford with a pair of 88mm
turbos, watch it tear down the track at
the North Star Dragaway x275 race.
Mazda RX3 tags the wall - MRHELI
King of the 2-step, Frank 'Mr Heli' Canistra hasn't raced the RX3 in some 2
years. The 13B rotary turbo powered
Mazda sedan ran strong all day going into the low 8s but got loose late in
the night. Frank did a great job of steering out of what could have been a
heavier hit and the good news is that he walked away unhurt.
APSA Pro Street Shootout round 3, Sydney Dragway, Australia - May 18th
Eagle Talon AWD Turbo Upgrade - Part Two
In this episode, we finish the T3 based PTE 6266 turbo upgrade on my DSM. After getting all of the
parts bolted in, we go for a road test to get the initial ECMLink tune
You can see a complete modification list and many more photos and details
Join me on Facebook at:
For more details on my DIY water alcohol injection setup, please visit
Thanks for watching!
The content provided in this video is for informational use only. Video
content is provided at the viewers own risk and the viewer will not hold
the parties involved in creating, producing or delivering this information
liable for any loss, injury, claim, liability, or damage of any kind
resulting in any way from any errors in or omissions from the information.
Thanks for understanding.
Pro Street Shootout APSA
Both Pro Street Blown and Un-Blown classes qualifying at the APSA FUCHS
Shootout held at Calder Park Raceway.
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait
worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where
the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the
failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent.
But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and
nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch
issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook
perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a
defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like
this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my
fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make
it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you
if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay
someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away
between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure
all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener
problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car
fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a
smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions
in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then
lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on
your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and
never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn
this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all
of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly
mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going
back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission
and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to
ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect
exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever...
Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of
movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't
far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be
hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch
pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for
saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the
clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is
never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of
the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault.
You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust
loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting
defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the
same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your