I'm reviewing an ebay 20g TD05 internally-gated turbocharger. You've seen me open it, assess it, and port it. Now I'm going to install it and see how it fits on my car. Its dimensions are close enough to a Mitsubishi turbo that it fits well, but it didn't play nice with my aftermarket stuff as the video illustrates.
You'll see what I mean...
The wastegate actuator nipple aims straight toward the compressor housing, and I don't like it. I fixed it with a pair of pliers and an allen wrench at 5:55 in a way that's far less likely to break it. The flanges and bolt centers lined up fine and without any issues, though others have claimed to have had them with this turbo. The compressor cover is an obvious giveaway regarding identifying this turbo. It does not wear the cast-in designation TD05H that the Mitsubishi turbos do, but for $228, what do you expect?
If you chose to go this route, just manage your expectations. Be aware that it might not bolt up perfectly to your particular car, and be willing to fix what isn't perfect.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 engine's
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
First ebay 20g drag passes
I made 2 passes. On the first one, nearly everything that could go wrong
did. But I'm a persistent bastard. I fixed it all, found everybody and then
made this run. It wasn't until after I got home that I realized I had no
in-car video footage of the first run when I broke despite having set it
up... I kicked the alternator belt off no-lift-to-shifting into 4th gear
around 800 feet and coasted to a 13.3 at 82mph against a 10 second Mustang. Overheating with no power
steering I limped it back and put the belt back on, only burning myself 9
times, and then got back out and made this run. The guys in front of us
broke, too. I guess it was contagious? This run is on 93 octane pump
gas. I shouldn't have been in such a hurry. It left me a little
unprepared. You learn things about other things while doing things--is the
best I can explain it. It didn't knock at all, so clearly the new injectors
are working fine... but I didn't take time to burp the coolant system, so
it ran hot. My alternator belt was loose, and it bailed on me. I was
focusing on explaining the video (I deleted that scene from frustration)
rather than putting the car back together, and failed to plug in a very
important sensor. I would have caught it, but didn't get a chance to look
at the logs until I got home. I have to operate so many pieces of equipment
in addition to actually driving that it's very distracting. The guy in
my second race had a beautiful 1967 Dodge Dart, and he was a very good
sport! It was a great race where adrenaline is involved, and I was focused
but wary of whether or not the alternator belt would stay on. I really
appreciate the guys that keep old muscle alive. That car's almost 50 years
old. That's making history right there... He cut a great 60 foot after they
cleaned up the track, but I wish that car didn't break in his lane prior to
his pass if it was a problem for his run. I tried to leave nothing out
and keep it short & sweet. I was lucky to have a track-side cameraman for
the second race. Thanks Taylor! Having that sensor plugged in would have
left me much more confident in the log data and offer a much better
assessment of this turbo, but it is what
it is. Here it is...
Cylinder Head 205 - Degree 4g63 Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and
adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of
several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine
on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your
engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why...
is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome
when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and
they're all defeated here.
The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been
resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care
about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no
less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are
recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it
was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will
change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your
engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same.
I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos
broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to
the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will
be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool
fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning
the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking
your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this
video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to
digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in
length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on
Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion
chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is
their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most
out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those
specifications without additional hardware or without causing a
catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next
video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the
manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process.
It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your
combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional
adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206
should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure
to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine
is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist
Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of
mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its
Honda ebay review
This is a review about ebay and their products, I ran a little about how
nobody wants to try anything but yet they want to knock it.. And for all
the haters there is something special at the end for you ;)
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 3
I have bad news. The big camera's playback heads bit the dust from
extensive prolonged use. I wore out the tape drive. No manner of cleaning
tapes can fix what it's been through. I've talked many times about how
much footage goes into one of my 15 to 30 minute videos, and for every hour
of video footage I've shot, the camera does double-duty because after
shooting, it has to be played back in real time during capture. I've done
more than 130 videos this way, probably over 2000 hours of use in the
harshest of environments, and it just couldn't handle it any longer. I
shot several more tapes beyond what's in this video that I can't even
import because the play heads failed. I don't know if any of that video
even stuck to the tapes?
The lost footage from the last video was an early and un-recognized sign of
what was soon to come. I know I joked about it, but in reality it's really
not very funny at all. I can't afford a backup for a piece of equipment
like this, so it's something I don't have. As bad as this news might feel
to you, I feel it 21,000 times over and I mean that. This couldn't come at
a worse time and expense for me, and at a point where my production was
really starting to wrap up on this project to move on to bigger and better
things. It's the only camera I have that can do what I do here on this
channel, so I'm forced to stop production for now.
Even though my camera is huge, 7 year old HDV technology, these things
still sell for several thousand dollars used because they record
un-compressed video unlike every other flash storage based solution
available at twice the price. 3CCD 1080/60i HD cameras that shoot to tape
have advantages that you can't affordably achieve with solid-state media.
I have to use un-compressed footage to do what I do here or else there's
nothing left of the video quality after 7 exports and a final mpeg
compression. The Sony Action Cam can't do it, we learned that in a
previous test video. Even if it could, it can't do close-ups and
everything's fisheyed. Buying a low-end 4K camera is impractical because I
can't efficiently or effectively edit that video without a $9,000 computer.
Jafromobile is just not that big of a channel, and I do this completely
un-sponsored and at my own expense with the help of a handful of friends
who volunteer their talent, time and information. It's the epitome of
low-budget and what it earns still doesn't come close covering the
channel's equipment and expenses as they occur.
People have urged that I do a kickstarter, but I can't bring myself to ask
for that from the community. I don't sell a product or offer services so
there is no profit margin. I can't accept money for something that happens
only at the speed of my available resources. To me, this channel is my
proverbial gift horse to all of you.
I know what you're thinking and I realize this is a grim conclusion to this
video. It sounds like I'm down for the count, but don't rush to the down
vote button just yet. As of the upload date of this video, I'm paying out
of pocket to fix a ridiculously expensive 3CCD 1080HD broadcast quality
video camera so that these projects can resume, and so that I can bring the
final assembly steps to you in the same quality you've grown used to seeing
here on Jafromobile.
If I wear out a camera every 3 years, then so be it. This is love, and no
expense is too great. The big camera is being fixed by its manufacturer,
and I'm expecting the repair to cost as much as replacing it. I sincerely
hope that's not the case. Hopefully my production only has to take a short
break. Once production resumes and I can import these tapes, I've got some
really awesome stuff coming up and I hope every last one of you is here to
see it. I may have a few other backlogged nuggets I can upload, and as
always I'm happy to discuss this in the comments and provide updates on the
repair as I get them.
Update: Awaiting quote due by 5/16 according to the repair agreement.
5/9/2014 9:17:00 AM DELIVERED NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 5:36:00 AM DESTINATION SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 12:04:00 AM ARRIVAL SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/12/2014 - Repair paid in full $440. Far less than I was expecting. I'm
glad they still make parts for 7 year old professional equipment. Thank
You Canon, USA! Repair should be complete within 7 business days from
receipt of payment. The quote only took them 24 hours and they quoted a
week just for the estimate, so at this rate I should be back up and running
once again very soon. Thank ALL of you for your kind words, HUGE
generosity, and all of the moral support. I swear I have the best
subscribers on YouTube!
Boost Leak Testing 202: Hair Spray 1080HD
Why do I know about this?
I'm tired of being the one knowing all the weird crap. If everyone knows
it, it won't be weird anymore. It will be commonplace. By the time I'm
done sealing up all of my own Boost
leaks, all of you will also be experts as well. I'm sure most of you would
teach me something, too... but you subscribed, so here it comes...
something I learned in my travels...
Also, thanks Ilya M. I've only heard about it twice in my life. It worked
great for the one time I've ever needed it, and I'm a huge fan.
DIY Parts Washer
IF you have access to compressed air, you can clean, degrease and restore
the finish on automotive parts (and anything else really, not just DSMs)
using the simple, inexpensive tools and supplies I demonstrate in this
AUDIO TRACK BY: ROJODELCHOCOLATE*
Some things don't fit in a parts washer. Sometimes you can't remove them
from a vehicle. Sometimes you need to bring your parts washer to your
project instead of the other way around. This INEXPENSIVE method for parts
cleaning solves all of those problems. Caked-on grease, grime, carbon and
oil are no match against this simple solution.
For between $6 and $30 you can purchase a siphon-feed blow gun... spray
gun... whatever you want to call it. NAPA sells an American made unit
that's more expensive (like I used here) that occasionally suffer from
quality control issues, and Harbor Freight sells one for $6 that I have no
experience with. The tool is so simple that I can't see why it would work
Mineral spirits (coal oil) is a highly-refined petroleum-based, low-odor,
low-volatility solvent that can be used for many purposes from thinning
paint to serving as thread cutting oil. Automotive professionals found
that it actually lifts oil out of metal. This makes it an ideal choice for
engine parts cleaning. Because most fluids in your car are
petroleum-based, it's the ideal thinner to cut through the grease and wash
away the funk. It has a much higher flash point than other solvents that
are effective at cleaning up grease and oil. It's very similar to
No special breathing aparatus is required. Gloves and googles are
recommended. Because of its rapid evaporation, only minor preparations
need to be made to your workspace to deal with the run-off. Vaporized
mineral spirits evaporate completely just a few feet away from the blow
gun, and drippings evaporate leaving only what washed off of your parts
behind. If cleaning requires the use of brushes to break up soiled areas,
use brushes that are appropriate for the materials you're cleaning.
All in all, this solution costs about $10 for tools, and about $15 a gallon
for mineral spirits. NO auto parts store solution like degreasers, or
stinky, hazardous, toxic chemicals like brake cleaner will deliver these
results. If you do this once, you'll be spoiled rotten. You will keep
coming back to this mobile parts washer again and again whenever you need
to degrease something. It's that good.
Machine shops will clean your parts for you. You can do this without
leaving your garage. Bring your own air compressor, and the bigger the
better because of recovery time... but the siphon action isn't physically
complicated, and anything from a pancake air compressor on-up will work.
Oh... one more thing... Oil the &$^% out of cast iron parts when you're
done. When stripped of oil, they will rust nearly instantly on contact
with water or acids from your skin. Oil them. Soak them in clean oil
Tools you'll need...
Siphon-feed blow gun:
***** In the UK, Mineral Spirits are called White Spirits. *****
In China, White Spirits is pronounced "bok WHY?" with emphasis on why.
Literally translated, that's "white ghost". It also means "egg" but I
believe it's said a little differently.
ba kwai is a derogatory slang term that Chinese use to describe white
people. I'm not kidding. Either way, being called an egg might possibly
bother a white person somewhere? Perhaps this is why I forgot to mention
it in the video? It's too funny of a fact to leave out of the description.
So, go make breakfast and have fun with your cheap, racist parts washer...
no matter what color skin you're wrapped in.
Mineral Spirits can be bought at your local hardware store.
Mineral Spirits MSDS sheet (for the stuff I used in the video):
Paint trays, wire brushes, and empty paint cans are also available at your
local hardware store. I found that a 1 quart can with the lid cut off is
the perfect size for cleaning pistons. Yes, you did see me bust out the
Farberware can opener in my garage. A garage is simply a man's kitchen, so
I see nothing wrong with this. Of course, it can be a woman's kitchen
too... it just needs appliances that are appropriate for use near flammable
liquids IF I'm going to be preparing any food while she fixes my car. I
would never change my car's oil in a kitchen, though. I also wouldn't use
cookware to catch automotive fluids. Just sayin'.
* The man made me an 18 minute song in a day. Maybe some of you write
music? Words can't describe how grateful I am to receive a quarter of an
album from somebody on such short notice, or to explain my gratitude for
4g63 Block Cleanup & Oil System Mods
With no data other than another person's testimony and from observing the
condition of failed rod bearings I was able to determine this engine
suffered problems from high oil pressure. There are 3 modifications that
wanted to perform to its oil system, and 2 parts I chose to replace. All
of the videos that go into greater detail about these modifications and
parts are linked from this video. Though I've covered these topics, this
is a video of the work being done to the Hyundai because it's part of its
Also in the process I've stripped and removed all gaskets in preparation
for parts washing. All of these tasks can be completed without an air
compressor by taking your time with a razor blade or using electric
grinding tools. If you're doing this kind of work, I strongly suggest for
time's sake that you use an air compressor. If you have access to an air
compressor and any of these [cheap] tools, then you can do these kinds of
modifications for less than $20. NAPA sells everything but the spudger
(below) individually so there's no need to buy these consumable supplies in
3m bristle discs:
I used this cleaning up the oil pan. It's a spudger. An electronics tool.
I also used 3m Scotch Brite wheels to clean the oil pan's gasket surface.
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
Junkyard Turbo Swap! Chevy-Powered 1971 Datsun 240Z Autocross Thrash - Roadkill Ep. 26
What do you get when you cross a rusted 1971 Datsun 240Z with a Chevy 4.3L
V6 and a turbo from a Ford Power Stroke
Diesel? The Rotsun! During Roadkill Episode 25, Freiburger and Finnegan
revived the Rotsun expecting it to dominate in the 9-car autocross showdown
of previous Roadkill project cars. It also needed to beat a 2014 Kia Rio 5,
but failed to do so with the Rotsun shamefully breaking down before
completing a decent lap. So in this episode: revenge. After swapping in the
mismatched turbo and making nearly 400
rear-wheel horsepower, the guys head to
the autocross at the Goodguys 5th Spring Nationals in Scottsdale, Arizona
and mingle with fans on their way to a rematch with that dastardly Kia.
Roadkill appears every fourth Friday on the Motor Trend channel.
Subscribe now to make sure you're in on all the action!
Facebook - https://www.facebook.com/RoadkillShow,
http://facebook.com/motortrendmag & http://facebook.com/hotrodmag
Twitter - http://twitter.com/motortrend &
Google+ - https://plus.google.com/1018679678590...
Website - http://www.motortrend.com & http://www.hotrod.com
Boost Leak Testing 201: Using the tool.
This is the second part of the Boost
leak testing series. In this video, several examples of possible leaks you
might find are exhibited, as well as suggested fixes. Hopefully this video
helps turbo cars around the world to be
healthier and more powerful.
High-speed turbo balancing machine turbo Technics introduced the VSR Mk3
"Core" balancing machine in 1999, following 15 years production of the
previous Mk2 machine. Within months, its clever design and many unique
features became the talking point of the turbocharger industry. Following worldwide
acclaim, and the only VSR (Vibration Sorting Rig) to meet full factory
approval by GARRETT, KKK (3K Borg Warner) and IHI, the machine soon became
regarded as the accepted "Industry standard" for all turbocharger repair businesses and aftermarket
re-manufacturers. For full details of our current range of balancing
machines, please visit http://www.turbotechnics.com
** Please note that this video was made some years ago, and does NOT show
our current specification. ** Thanks for watching.
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 2
Continued progress on the Hyundai build. I've covered most of this before
in detail, so I'll save you the fancy narrative. The torque settings are
in both the info below, and the video shown on the wrench. You will see
this process again here, and each time new aspects of assembly tools and
materials will be used.
SPECIAL THANKS TO ROJODELCHOCOLATE for the audio track.
Oil Pan Bolts
18 7 M6 x12 5'lbs MD012109
2 7 M6 x8 5'lbs MD167134 (some cars use 10mm shorties but 8mm will
1g Front Case Bolts
4 7 M8 x20 17'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x25 17'lbs MF140227
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233
1 4 M10 x30 22'lbs MF140062 (6-bolt)
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 (7-bolt)
1g oil pump housing bolts
5 4 M8 x20 12'lbs MF140025 (4qty for 7-bolt and add 1 MD141302 screw)
1 10 M8 x16 27'lbs MD040758 (Balance/Stub shaft bolt)
Oil Pump Sprocket Nut
1 11 M10 x 40'lbs MD095237 *use Loctite
1g oil filter housing bolts (that I used w/6-bolt water-cooled OFH)
2 7 M8 x40 14'lbs MF241261
1 7 M8 x20 14'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x55 14'lbs MF241264
1 7 M8 x65 14'lbs MF241266
1g Rear Main Seal Housing Bolts
5 7 M6 x16 10'lbs MF140205 (6-bolt)
5 7 M6 x14 10'lbs MF140204 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tesnsioner Bolts
2 7 M8 x51 17'lbs MD129350 (6-bolt)
2 7 M8 x55 17'lbs MD190987 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tensioner Arm Bolt
1 8 M8 x16 16'lbs MF241251 Bolt
1 x x x x MD129421 Washer
6 11 M12 x22.5 98'lbs MD040557* (ALL Manual transmission 6-bolt cars)
7 11 M12 x21.5 98'lbs MD302074 (ALL Manual transmission 7-bolt turbos)
* Part substitution # 2795A956
Crank Sprocket Bolt & Washer
1 11 M14 x40 87'LBS MD074255 CRANKSHAFT CENTER BOLT
1 x M14 x14.5 MD012455 CRANKSHAFT WASHER
For gasket, seal and service parts information, please refer to my 6-bolt
4g63 shortblock rebuild parts video:
For timing belt service parts information and tools, please refer to my
4g63 Timing Belt Parts video:
In 29 and 3/4 minutes I offer a detailed explanation of how to do a 6-bolt
AND 7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild:
For 33 minutes I cover every oil filter housing including servicing
information, rebuilding, modifying the oil filter housing, and the
unabridged description of how oil pressure works in my 4g63 Oil Filter
How to Turbo - Part 1
After buying a Euro car last episode, Marty discovers he has not yet found
his perfect vehicle... In this extended episode, we reveal what he got, and
show how to make it faster.
Wanna show the world that you fix your own shizzle? MCM stickers, ti shirts
and other mad shizuoika available here:
Official Site: http://www.mightycarmods.com
Music from the episode is available here:
http://www.mightycarmods.com/collections/music (Forced Induction by MOOG
was featured in this episode)
Also something to note around Mighty Car Mods: we are normal guys and are
not trained mechanics. We like to make interesting car mods and show you
how we've gone about it, but we can't promise that anything we show you
will work for your particular car, or that you won't harm yourself, someone
else, your car or your warranty doing it. Please be safe, be responsible
and unless you know what you're doing, do not fool around with very serious
machinery just because you've seen us make it look so easy. Talk to a
qualified mechanic if you are in any doubt.