I'm reviewing an ebay 20g TD05 internally-gated turbocharger. You've seen me open it, assess it, and port it. Now I'm going to install it and see how it fits on my car. Its dimensions are close enough to a Mitsubishi turbo that it fits well, but it didn't play nice with my aftermarket stuff as the video illustrates.
You'll see what I mean...
The wastegate actuator nipple aims straight toward the compressor housing, and I don't like it. I fixed it with a pair of pliers and an allen wrench at 5:55 in a way that's far less likely to break it. The flanges and bolt centers lined up fine and without any issues, though others have claimed to have had them with this turbo. The compressor cover is an obvious giveaway regarding identifying this turbo. It does not wear the cast-in designation TD05H that the Mitsubishi turbos do, but for $228, what do you expect?
If you chose to go this route, just manage your expectations. Be aware that it might not bolt up perfectly to your particular car, and be willing to fix what isn't perfect.
Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO!
We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's
bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different
brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and
standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC.
If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done
here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through
11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from
the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for
instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a
demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections.
You gotta do the cooking by the book.
I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular
car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case
study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are
several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that
shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my
videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts.
You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This
car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this
same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having
this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how
and why I do things the way I do when I get there.
This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a
video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month
to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for
YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the
whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a
DIY Parts Washer
IF you have access to compressed air, you can clean, degrease and restore
the finish on automotive parts (and anything else really, not just DSMs)
using the simple, inexpensive tools and supplies I demonstrate in this
AUDIO TRACK BY: ROJODELCHOCOLATE*
Some things don't fit in a parts washer. Sometimes you can't remove them
from a vehicle. Sometimes you need to bring your parts washer to your
project instead of the other way around. This INEXPENSIVE method for parts
cleaning solves all of those problems. Caked-on grease, grime, carbon and
oil are no match against this simple solution.
For between $6 and $30 you can purchase a siphon-feed blow gun... spray
gun... whatever you want to call it. NAPA sells an American made unit
that's more expensive (like I used here) that occasionally suffer from
quality control issues, and Harbor Freight sells one for $6 that I have no
experience with. The tool is so simple that I can't see why it would work
Mineral spirits (coal oil) is a highly-refined petroleum-based, low-odor,
low-volatility solvent that can be used for many purposes from thinning
paint to serving as thread cutting oil. Automotive professionals found
that it actually lifts oil out of metal. This makes it an ideal choice for
engine parts cleaning. Because most fluids in your car are
petroleum-based, it's the ideal thinner to cut through the grease and wash
away the funk. It has a much higher flash point than other solvents that
are effective at cleaning up grease and oil. It's very similar to
No special breathing aparatus is required. Gloves and googles are
recommended. Because of its rapid evaporation, only minor preparations
need to be made to your workspace to deal with the run-off. Vaporized
mineral spirits evaporate completely just a few feet away from the blow
gun, and drippings evaporate leaving only what washed off of your parts
behind. If cleaning requires the use of brushes to break up soiled areas,
use brushes that are appropriate for the materials you're cleaning.
All in all, this solution costs about $10 for tools, and about $15 a gallon
for mineral spirits. NO auto parts store solution like degreasers, or
stinky, hazardous, toxic chemicals like brake cleaner will deliver these
results. If you do this once, you'll be spoiled rotten. You will keep
coming back to this mobile parts washer again and again whenever you need
to degrease something. It's that good.
Machine shops will clean your parts for you. You can do this without
leaving your garage. Bring your own air compressor, and the bigger the
better because of recovery time... but the siphon action isn't physically
complicated, and anything from a pancake air compressor on-up will work.
Oh... one more thing... Oil the &$^% out of cast iron parts when you're
done. When stripped of oil, they will rust nearly instantly on contact
with water or acids from your skin. Oil them. Soak them in clean oil
Tools you'll need...
Siphon-feed blow gun:
***** In the UK, Mineral Spirits are called White Spirits. *****
In China, White Spirits is pronounced "bok WHY?" with emphasis on why.
Literally translated, that's "white ghost". It also means "egg" but I
believe it's said a little differently.
ba kwai is a derogatory slang term that Chinese use to describe white
people. I'm not kidding. Either way, being called an egg might possibly
bother a white person somewhere? Perhaps this is why I forgot to mention
it in the video? It's too funny of a fact to leave out of the description.
So, go make breakfast and have fun with your cheap, racist parts washer...
no matter what color skin you're wrapped in.
Mineral Spirits can be bought at your local hardware store.
Mineral Spirits MSDS sheet (for the stuff I used in the video):
Paint trays, wire brushes, and empty paint cans are also available at your
local hardware store. I found that a 1 quart can with the lid cut off is
the perfect size for cleaning pistons. Yes, you did see me bust out the
Farberware can opener in my garage. A garage is simply a man's kitchen, so
I see nothing wrong with this. Of course, it can be a woman's kitchen
too... it just needs appliances that are appropriate for use near flammable
liquids IF I'm going to be preparing any food while she fixes my car. I
would never change my car's oil in a kitchen, though. I also wouldn't use
cookware to catch automotive fluids. Just sayin'.
* The man made me an 18 minute song in a day. Maybe some of you write
music? Words can't describe how grateful I am to receive a quarter of an
album from somebody on such short notice, or to explain my gratitude for
Trans & Clutch 4 - Installing The Clutch
What you wanted to know about clutches but were afraid to ask.
I'm putting a ACT MB1-XTSS on the car in this video. Step height, clutch
dowell pins, bolt part numbers, alignment and various clutch parts are
described in this video. It's part of an all-inclusive drivetrain tech
piece I'm working on that's broken up into sections to maintain focus on
the individual processes involved.
Garage Modification 3
For those of you that read video info... I made YouTube Partnership 2
weeks ago. It's taken almost 3 years an over 4000 hours of work, but I
made it! Thank you for your support, time, comments, ratings and
generosity! Thank you for helping me cross the half-million view mark and
more than 1500 subscribers! The growth my channel has experienced is both
flattering and unexpected. I'm just a random guy doing what I [usually]
love to do and filming it. I'm grateful to everyone who favorites my
videos and also helped your subscribers find me. Those who posted my
videos in forums... Just... Thank you! Whether or not what I do helps you
build a better car, you're helping me to build a better cars in many
different ways, and there's no greater gift you could give to a guy like
What this video is about? I've run out of space. I like efficiency. I'm
saving energy and adding comfort to a room I spend a LOT of time in.
The shelves I bought were nearly $100 each, and I figured I could buy
enough material to finish an attic in my garage for less than half of that
and end up with far more storage. That's what this is. I got a little
sidetracked from just finishing the walls, I'll admit, but I'm really happy
with the results! I vinyl-wrapped the attic insulation for an additional
vapor barrier, to keep the attic insulation up (because it was starting to
sag), and for added R-value. It made a HUGE difference! Especially the
added ceiling. Now on an overcast day when it's over 90° F outside, I can
get the garage down to 65°-66°F with just a window unit. Almost there.
I'm using 19/32" OSB particle board for everything because sheet rock is
just too delicate for the kind of mechanic I am. It costs the same but is
far more durable than drywall. Yes, I eyeballed lots of stuff and nailed
it because that's how I roll. I've knocked out the section in the corner
behind the compressor, the corner behind the workbench, the back wall, and
installed conduit for future upgrades.
Where I'm at with the garage right now allows me to now put a car back
inside. I've got one wall and a workbench left to finish, but that's going
to wait a bit for now. It's going to be a big job that I need to gather
things for, and I need to get some other videos up here first for the
faithful. I made and posted this just because I want you to know that
progress is being made for the sake of the channel, also to improve the
scenery because 1080HD isn't kind, and to show why I've been "gone" for so
This video spans over 40 hours of work because a lot of it happened
off-camera gathering materials and doing math. It took eleven 85 minute
HDV tapes, 2.7 TB of disk space total just to make a 817 MB flattened
movie. RojoDelChocolate once again comes through with a dynamite audio
track for the occasion. The disco ball is courtesy of my previous bachelor
pad, and desperately needs to be connected to a garage door opener.
Grinding Oil Return Channels
I started cleaning the rust out, and got carried away. I didn't want to do
as extensive of a cleanup job as I did on the GSX, but still wanted to make
improvements because of the kinds of oil-related problems it experienced.
There's a method to this madness. It will make more sense once I get
around to bolting the oil pan back on. The techniques in this video are
things I had to do right now if I was going to do them at all. Some of
them really needed to be done anyway.
You really don't see people do these tricks on imports. Just because you
don't see it, it doesn't mean it can't help. I hope you enjoyed the motor
oil drag races in the middle of the video. They speak for the science
behind this mod... without having to get all scientific. Those results
speak clearly for themselves, and there's plenty of chances to get
scientific as the Glyptal treatment of the GSX is completed.
In this video...
I used steel wire cup brushes for both an air DIY grinder, and a Dremel to
remove the rust.
I used a cone-shaped carbide double-cut burr to smooth the crankcase.
I polished the crankcase with coarse and medium sanding rolls for both an
air DIY grinder and a Dremel.
I used a 1/4" ball carbide double-cut burr to grind the channel.
I used a pack of Harbor Freight #95947 10-Piece Tube Brush Kit.
4g63 Block Cleanup & Oil System Mods
With no data other than another person's testimony and from observing the
condition of failed rod bearings I was able to determine this engine
suffered problems from high oil pressure. There are 3 modifications that
wanted to perform to its oil system, and 2 parts I chose to replace. All
of the videos that go into greater detail about these modifications and
parts are linked from this video. Though I've covered these topics, this
is a video of the work being done to the Hyundai because it's part of its
Also in the process I've stripped and removed all gaskets in preparation
for parts washing. All of these tasks can be completed without an air
compressor by taking your time with a razor blade or using electric
grinding tools. If you're doing this kind of work, I strongly suggest for
time's sake that you use an air compressor. If you have access to an air
compressor and any of these [cheap] tools, then you can do these kinds of
modifications for less than $20. NAPA sells everything but the spudger
(below) individually so there's no need to buy these consumable supplies in
3m bristle discs:
I used this cleaning up the oil pan. It's a spudger. An electronics tool.
I also used 3m Scotch Brite wheels to clean the oil pan's gasket surface.
How To Install a Turbo Timer
In this episode the boys teach you how to install a turbo timer.
GET MAD MCM Gear gear here including Stickers, Magazines, DVDs, clothing,
mods and music at http://www.mightycarmods.com
Discuss this episode here on the MCM forum:
Music In This Video
"A Place To Hide" Featuring JS7 by MOOG
Available on iTunes here:
Non-iTunes version here:
"Forced Induction" by Moog. Available here:
Non-iTunes version available here:
Keep up to date with everything MCM here on Facebook
Also something to note around Mighty Car Mods: we are normal guys and are
not trained mechanics. We like to make interesting car mods and show you
how we've gone about it, but we can't promise that anything we show you
will work for your particular car, or that you won't harm yourself, someone
else, your car or your warranty doing it. Please be safe, be responsible
and unless you know what you're doing, do not fool around with very serious
machinery just because you've seen us make it look so easy. Talk to a
qualified mechanic if you are in any doubt.
Boost Leak Testing 201: Using the tool.
This is the second part of the Boost
leak testing series. In this video, several examples of possible leaks you
might find are exhibited, as well as suggested fixes. Hopefully this video
helps turbo cars around the world to be
healthier and more powerful.
Trans & Clutch 1 - Remove Transmission
This is the first in a multi-video series regarding clutch tech. The
clutch itself is a simple mechanism, but it's buried deep in the engine, so
you can't just cover the clutch. First, you have to cover how to remove
the transmission to get to it.
This project started off strange, got kind-of not-good, and then took a
turn for the worst. The typical clutch job is not as difficult as the next
video will display, but it's good this happened to me because I film this
kind of crap. If for some asinine reason you encounter the kind of failure
I experienced, you'll know what to do after the next video. Clutch
assembly will be covered in a third video.
About the car:
You saw the other assembly video. You know when I put this thing together.
You know it doesn't come out to play when it's cloudy. I've had it on the
road less than an earl change. Freshly rebuilt TRE Stage 2.5 trans with a
brand new ACT 2600 and a sprung 6-puck (MB1-XTG6) on a stock flywheel.
This is Transmission #4.
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 2
Continued progress on the Hyundai build. I've covered most of this before
in detail, so I'll save you the fancy narrative. The torque settings are
in both the info below, and the video shown on the wrench. You will see
this process again here, and each time new aspects of assembly tools and
materials will be used.
SPECIAL THANKS TO ROJODELCHOCOLATE for the audio track.
Oil Pan Bolts
18 7 M6 x12 5'lbs MD012109
2 7 M6 x8 5'lbs MD167134 (some cars use 10mm shorties but 8mm will
1g Front Case Bolts
4 7 M8 x20 17'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x25 17'lbs MF140227
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233
1 4 M10 x30 22'lbs MF140062 (6-bolt)
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 (7-bolt)
1g oil pump housing bolts
5 4 M8 x20 12'lbs MF140025 (4qty for 7-bolt and add 1 MD141302 screw)
1 10 M8 x16 27'lbs MD040758 (Balance/Stub shaft bolt)
Oil Pump Sprocket Nut
1 11 M10 x 40'lbs MD095237 *use Loctite
1g oil filter housing bolts (that I used w/6-bolt water-cooled OFH)
2 7 M8 x40 14'lbs MF241261
1 7 M8 x20 14'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x55 14'lbs MF241264
1 7 M8 x65 14'lbs MF241266
1g Rear Main Seal Housing Bolts
5 7 M6 x16 10'lbs MF140205 (6-bolt)
5 7 M6 x14 10'lbs MF140204 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tesnsioner Bolts
2 7 M8 x51 17'lbs MD129350 (6-bolt)
2 7 M8 x55 17'lbs MD190987 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tensioner Arm Bolt
1 8 M8 x16 16'lbs MF241251 Bolt
1 x x x x MD129421 Washer
6 11 M12 x22.5 98'lbs MD040557* (ALL Manual transmission 6-bolt cars)
7 11 M12 x21.5 98'lbs MD302074 (ALL Manual transmission 7-bolt turbos)
* Part substitution # 2795A956
Crank Sprocket Bolt & Washer
1 11 M14 x40 87'LBS MD074255 CRANKSHAFT CENTER BOLT
1 x M14 x14.5 MD012455 CRANKSHAFT WASHER
For gasket, seal and service parts information, please refer to my 6-bolt
4g63 shortblock rebuild parts video:
For timing belt service parts information and tools, please refer to my
4g63 Timing Belt Parts video:
In 29 and 3/4 minutes I offer a detailed explanation of how to do a 6-bolt
AND 7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild:
For 33 minutes I cover every oil filter housing including servicing
information, rebuilding, modifying the oil filter housing, and the
unabridged description of how oil pressure works in my 4g63 Oil Filter
Trans & Clutch 9 - 2g Shifter Tech
Detailing common failures in 2g DSM shifters, repairing a stock shifter,
the B&M Short Shifter, the Symborski Shifter Bushing set, bronze shifter
linkage bushings, and fixing sloppiness in all of my shifter's parts.
You like how all the part numbers are at the end of the video? Cool! Then
click the like button because I work cheap!
High-speed turbo balancing machine turbo Technics introduced the VSR Mk3
"Core" balancing machine in 1999, following 15 years production of the
previous Mk2 machine. Within months, its clever design and many unique
features became the talking point of the turbocharger industry. Following worldwide
acclaim, and the only VSR (Vibration Sorting Rig) to meet full factory
approval by GARRETT, KKK (3K Borg Warner) and IHI, the machine soon became
regarded as the accepted "Industry standard" for all turbocharger repair businesses and aftermarket
re-manufacturers. For full details of our current range of balancing
machines, please visit http://www.turbotechnics.com
** Please note that this video was made some years ago, and does NOT show
our current specification. ** Thanks for watching.