I'm reviewing an ebay 20g TD05 internally-gated turbocharger. You've seen me open it, assess it, and port it. Now I'm going to install it and see how it fits on my car. Its dimensions are close enough to a Mitsubishi turbo that it fits well, but it didn't play nice with my aftermarket stuff as the video illustrates.
You'll see what I mean...
The wastegate actuator nipple aims straight toward the compressor housing, and I don't like it. I fixed it with a pair of pliers and an allen wrench at 5:55 in a way that's far less likely to break it. The flanges and bolt centers lined up fine and without any issues, though others have claimed to have had them with this turbo. The compressor cover is an obvious giveaway regarding identifying this turbo. It does not wear the cast-in designation TD05H that the Mitsubishi turbos do, but for $228, what do you expect?
If you chose to go this route, just manage your expectations. Be aware that it might not bolt up perfectly to your particular car, and be willing to fix what isn't perfect.
More ebay 20g drag passes
Trolled by mother nature.
I thought plugging in my o2 sensor might make a difference. Scarily that's
not how things worked out. My fuel trims are all jacked up with or without
it. Airflow counts are down. I have more to do to this thing, but in an
effort to keep things real, I'm uploading what happened and what I found in
The PRIMARY reason for racing is development of both self and your
equipment. If your goal is to have an awesome street car, you can't
fully-achieve that goal without rigorous testing where numbers and facts
are clearly evident. You JUST CAN'T do that on the STREET. There are no
numbers on the street, no measurement of a baseline nor any improvements
you might make. There's no measurement of a drivers' skill outside of,
"did you win or didn't you?"
I didn't come to the track with the expectation of MY driving needing to be
improved. I was simply getting numbers, so I wasn't a tree-nazi like I was
in the Friday Night No-Lift-To-Shift video. There was more incentive for
me to just not red-light and see what she'll do.
This evening I didn't feel like the track crew were on their A-game.
Sometimes they held staged cars for an inordinately long period of time...
which once I'm staged, I'm on the rev limiter, and once they left me there
awaiting the tree for over 20 seconds, heating my car up and leaving me
disadvantaged out of the hole. Other times they treated the starting
lanes, dried off my opponent's side but not mine, not giving instruction to
hold or wait. In fact, one guy was signaling me forward while another crew
member was standing in front of my car spraying the lane. What do you
expect for only $15? I'm grateful for them, but the communication could
stand improvement over what I saw tonight.
Perhaps I'm just a bit miffed with my setup and looking for someone else to
blame? The track officials certainly don't deserve any for how it ran this
Porting an eBay 20g turbocharger
The price of this turbo will make it a
popular purchase, so I figured I'd air out some tech about ways to improve
it. This thing is not for everybody. I wouldn't feel comfortable bolting
it on my car the way it comes out of the box. I could complain about its
flaws except that so far absolutely none of them have been a deal-breaker
for me. To me it's like an empty canvas. I promise to eat those words if
it happens, and share my poop. Usually I can easily correct these flaws
myself and so can you.
If this thing turns out to perform well with what I do to it... It could
easily be a cheap, quick ticket to an 11-second car. Something you could
do with a free running 1g, a hacksaw, and about $500 worth of fuel
upgrades. Yeah, that would be ridiculous, and I'm bolting it onto a
well-modified car... But that being possible speaks volumes for what a DSM
can really do.
This is no big deal to me. I'd rather guinea pig my car for you in HD so
you guys can decide whether or not you'd spend your money on this. Really
it's an experiment because this isn't my daily-driver, and it contributes
to building a better Colt.
Tools I used involve:
Milwaukee model ???? 1/4" straight-shaft electric DIY grinder
Cone and ball-shaped double-cut burs
180 grit high-speed flap wheel
Dremel with a flex-shaft and a tiny 320-grit flap wheel
a zip tie
10mm combination wrench
tiny flat-blade screwdriver (00) for the e-clip on the wastegate
How to Turbo - Part 1
After buying a Euro car last episode, Marty discovers he has not yet found
his perfect vehicle... In this extended episode, we reveal what he got, and
show how to make it faster.
Wanna show the world that you fix your own shizzle? MCM stickers, ti shirts
and other mad shizuoika available here:
Official Site: http://www.mightycarmods.com
Music from the episode is available here:
http://www.mightycarmods.com/collections/music (Forced Induction by MOOG
was featured in this episode)
Also something to note around Mighty Car Mods: we are normal guys and are
not trained mechanics. We like to make interesting car mods and show you
how we've gone about it, but we can't promise that anything we show you
will work for your particular car, or that you won't harm yourself, someone
else, your car or your warranty doing it. Please be safe, be responsible
and unless you know what you're doing, do not fool around with very serious
machinery just because you've seen us make it look so easy. Talk to a
qualified mechanic if you are in any doubt.
First ebay 20g drag passes
I made 2 passes. On the first one, nearly everything that could go wrong
did. But I'm a persistent bastard. I fixed it all, found everybody and then
made this run. It wasn't until after I got home that I realized I had no
in-car video footage of the first run when I broke despite having set it
up... I kicked the alternator belt off no-lift-to-shifting into 4th gear
around 800 feet and coasted to a 13.3 at 82mph against a 10 second Mustang. Overheating with no power
steering I limped it back and put the belt back on, only burning myself 9
times, and then got back out and made this run. The guys in front of us
broke, too. I guess it was contagious? This run is on 93 octane pump
gas. I shouldn't have been in such a hurry. It left me a little
unprepared. You learn things about other things while doing things--is the
best I can explain it. It didn't knock at all, so clearly the new injectors
are working fine... but I didn't take time to burp the coolant system, so
it ran hot. My alternator belt was loose, and it bailed on me. I was
focusing on explaining the video (I deleted that scene from frustration)
rather than putting the car back together, and failed to plug in a very
important sensor. I would have caught it, but didn't get a chance to look
at the logs until I got home. I have to operate so many pieces of equipment
in addition to actually driving that it's very distracting. The guy in
my second race had a beautiful 1967 Dodge Dart, and he was a very good
sport! It was a great race where adrenaline is involved, and I was focused
but wary of whether or not the alternator belt would stay on. I really
appreciate the guys that keep old muscle alive. That car's almost 50 years
old. That's making history right there... He cut a great 60 foot after they
cleaned up the track, but I wish that car didn't break in his lane prior to
his pass if it was a problem for his run. I tried to leave nothing out
and keep it short & sweet. I was lucky to have a track-side cameraman for
the second race. Thanks Taylor! Having that sensor plugged in would have
left me much more confident in the log data and offer a much better
assessment of this turbo, but it is what
it is. Here it is...
Boost Leak Testing 202: Hair Spray 1080HD
Why do I know about this?
I'm tired of being the one knowing all the weird crap. If everyone knows
it, it won't be weird anymore. It will be commonplace. By the time I'm
done sealing up all of my own Boost
leaks, all of you will also be experts as well. I'm sure most of you would
teach me something, too... but you subscribed, so here it comes...
something I learned in my travels...
Also, thanks Ilya M. I've only heard about it twice in my life. It worked
great for the one time I've ever needed it, and I'm a huge fan.
DIY Fuel Injector Cleaning & Repair
This is the end result of a few hours of work and $60 because I didn't have
a 1/4" NPT tap in any of my kits. I could have done this for less-than
$40. The BG products were donated to the cause.
The REASON you want to use 20 PSI is precisely because of how peak-hold
type injectors work. The injector signal sends a 4v spike to open a
peak-hold type injector quickly, then maintains its open condition with
only 1 volt. Really, it's a current thing and there's a longer
explanation, but that's it in a nutshell. When you put the injector in its
operating pressure, it takes more than a AA battery to open it, but you
don't want to sustain that much current with a momentary switch and your
expensive injectors. This isn't in the video because this warning wouldn't
be as clear. Unless you can simulate the injector pulse precisely, don't
try it. 1.5v is enough to open it below its operating pressure. If you
open it and THEN apply pressure, you can flow as much pressure as you can
throw at it.
I don't discourage anyone from getting their injectors professionally
cleaned and balanced, but in my case, I didn't feel that was necessary.
In my first video, I thanked the seller for these injectors and happy to
know I got a great deal on high quality parts. My gratitude is even
greater because I had problems with them. It gave me an opportunity to
help others troubleshoot these kinds of problems when purchasing used
parts. A different idiot might have blamed the seller for peddling crap,
demanding their money back... but that would only be because they didn't
even know what they were looking at.
This particular idiot knows what high quality parts RC injectors are and
how to clean 'em. $250 + $60 still means I saved about $150 on a brand new
set. We all benefit because I bought these and I'm grateful! Let the good
Precision Turbo PT6766 compared to the Ebay T70 + installation and tuning
I just recieved my new Precision turbo
Billet Wheel 505-6766 with .96 A/R and T4 flange. It is a work of ART!
This thing spools up instantly and stays spooled longer than my ebay T70
ever dreamed of. The ebay turbo held up
great for 11k miles but it never responded like the new Precision does.
Now I'm working out the bugs in the car to take advantage of the new-found
air supply. I had to greatly increase fueling at all Boost levels to get the AFR back down to 10.9.
And the sound of this thing is nothing short of amazing!
Engine is a stock (polished) tpi intake, mildly ported L98 aluminum heads,
8.6:1 cmpression, 224/224 @ .050" hydraulic roller comp cams custom grind
and SRP -24cc dish pistons.
Turbo Honda Civic - complete how to
This is how I installed a cheap ebay turbo on a 95 honda civic del sol -and then tore
it up before I sold it.
90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 00 01 02 03 04 05 06 7 08 09 honda acura
accord prelude civic crx Camaro integra toyota corolla
camry supra nissan lexus mazda mitsubishi eclipse evo gsx gst is300 sc300
s2000 350z 370z 1.5 1.5l 1.6 1.6l 1.8 1.8l 2.0 2.0l 2.2 2.2l 2.4 2.4l Intercoolerturbochargers turbocharger twin turboturbos
john caleb warren how to complete how-to turbocharge ac a/c Boost swap leak coolant oil cooler dx lx ex ls
gs rs gsr gs-r zc vtec v-tec ohc sohc dohc eg si bov works delsol del sol
wiring problem runs running rough bad ting knock rod piston smoking smoke
leaking overheating return line relay rough paint painting
fix GOT BOOST o2 dump housing
It's a pipe! It's a cheap upgrade. It's going to be awesome but it's not
perfect. There, I fixed it.
In this video I install a GOT Boost
external dump o2 housing onto a turbo
I'm fiddling with. The product is sold as "ported" and it is indeed in
comparison to the factory part... but there are a variety of Exhaust housings this could be port-matched to,
so I'm glad it didn't arrive with this done for some other turbo. It can benefit from a little tweaking.
The technique I'm using here is gasket matching. Using the gasket as a
guide, cut the ports so that both flange surfaces match. Radius your steps
or remove them if there's enough material to play with. Polish off the
Mine wasn't flat and I'm glad. Because I got to show you how to fix it at
600x and save you hours of footage of me filing it flat. Stroke hand files
in ONLY ONE DIRECTION. They're not made to use like hacksaws. It destroys
them. At the speed the video plays, you can't really pick that out of it
but I was very careful to preserve my file. I've had it for 15 years.
DIY Parts Washer
IF you have access to compressed air, you can clean, degrease and restore
the finish on automotive parts (and anything else really, not just DSMs)
using the simple, inexpensive tools and supplies I demonstrate in this
AUDIO TRACK BY: ROJODELCHOCOLATE*
Some things don't fit in a parts washer. Sometimes you can't remove them
from a vehicle. Sometimes you need to bring your parts washer to your
project instead of the other way around. This INEXPENSIVE method for parts
cleaning solves all of those problems. Caked-on grease, grime, carbon and
oil are no match against this simple solution.
For between $6 and $30 you can purchase a siphon-feed blow gun... spray
gun... whatever you want to call it. NAPA sells an American made unit
that's more expensive (like I used here) that occasionally suffer from
quality control issues, and Harbor Freight sells one for $6 that I have no
experience with. The tool is so simple that I can't see why it would work
Mineral spirits (coal oil) is a highly-refined petroleum-based, low-odor,
low-volatility solvent that can be used for many purposes from thinning
paint to serving as thread cutting oil. Automotive professionals found
that it actually lifts oil out of metal. This makes it an ideal choice for
engine parts cleaning. Because most fluids in your car are
petroleum-based, it's the ideal thinner to cut through the grease and wash
away the funk. It has a much higher flash point than other solvents that
are effective at cleaning up grease and oil. It's very similar to
No special breathing aparatus is required. Gloves and googles are
recommended. Because of its rapid evaporation, only minor preparations
need to be made to your workspace to deal with the run-off. Vaporized
mineral spirits evaporate completely just a few feet away from the blow
gun, and drippings evaporate leaving only what washed off of your parts
behind. If cleaning requires the use of brushes to break up soiled areas,
use brushes that are appropriate for the materials you're cleaning.
All in all, this solution costs about $10 for tools, and about $15 a gallon
for mineral spirits. NO auto parts store solution like degreasers, or
stinky, hazardous, toxic chemicals like brake cleaner will deliver these
results. If you do this once, you'll be spoiled rotten. You will keep
coming back to this mobile parts washer again and again whenever you need
to degrease something. It's that good.
Machine shops will clean your parts for you. You can do this without
leaving your garage. Bring your own air compressor, and the bigger the
better because of recovery time... but the siphon action isn't physically
complicated, and anything from a pancake air compressor on-up will work.
Oh... one more thing... Oil the &$^% out of cast iron parts when you're
done. When stripped of oil, they will rust nearly instantly on contact
with water or acids from your skin. Oil them. Soak them in clean oil
Tools you'll need...
Siphon-feed blow gun:
***** In the UK, Mineral Spirits are called White Spirits. *****
In China, White Spirits is pronounced "bok WHY?" with emphasis on why.
Literally translated, that's "white ghost". It also means "egg" but I
believe it's said a little differently.
ba kwai is a derogatory slang term that Chinese use to describe white
people. I'm not kidding. Either way, being called an egg might possibly
bother a white person somewhere? Perhaps this is why I forgot to mention
it in the video? It's too funny of a fact to leave out of the description.
So, go make breakfast and have fun with your cheap, racist parts washer...
no matter what color skin you're wrapped in.
Mineral Spirits can be bought at your local hardware store.
Mineral Spirits MSDS sheet (for the stuff I used in the video):
Paint trays, wire brushes, and empty paint cans are also available at your
local hardware store. I found that a 1 quart can with the lid cut off is
the perfect size for cleaning pistons. Yes, you did see me bust out the
Farberware can opener in my garage. A garage is simply a man's kitchen, so
I see nothing wrong with this. Of course, it can be a woman's kitchen
too... it just needs appliances that are appropriate for use near flammable
liquids IF its food preparation that we're talking about. I would never
change my car's oil in a kitchen, though. I also wouldn't use cookware to
catch automotive fluids. Just sayin'.
* The man made me an 18 minute song in a day. Maybe some of you write
music? Words can't describe how grateful I am to receive a quarter of an
album from somebody on such short notice, or to explain my gratitude for
How to Rebuild a Turbo - Part 1 of 2
Rebuilding a td05h 16g turbo. This
process can be applied to many journal bearing turbochargers. :) It definitely comes in handy to
know how to do this when you are in this type of hobby.
4/25/12: Small explanation on the balancing of the rotating assembly since
I get so many comments regarding it. This particular turbocharger, td05h, has its rotating assembly
components balanced separately. This means each individual part (compressor
wheel, turbine wheel/shaft) gets balanced separately. This allows for easy
interchangeability of parts in case they need replacing. This is why I am
able to install a td05 20g wheel on this turbo without having to balance the entire
rotating assembly. THIS IS NOT THE CASE FOR ALL turboS OUT THERE. You need to research whether
your specific turbo (if it's not td05h)
was balanced as an assembly or "component balanced" like I explained above.
I hope this information helps. Good luck in your projects. Stay Boostin'
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