Magneti Marelli petrol fuel injector tester and cleaner with UV cleaner

Magneti Marelli petrol fuel injector tester and cleaner with UV cleaner

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Fuel injector cleaning without expensive tools
Homemade adapter = Quick and easy cleaning and testing. Here's where you can get valve stems: http://amzn.to/2hkSvla Because you asked: The trigger start blow torch I use: http://amzn.to/2heTQMI





RC Injectors
Don't know much about fuel injectors? We took a tour of RC Injectors shop to see how to bring old injectors back to life. SUBSCRIBE to the POWERTV YOUTUBE Channel -- http://www.youtube.com/subscription_center?add_user=powertv ***** Visit Power Automedia's Online Magazines! Power Automedia is the #1 Automotive Performance Digital Publisher! Ford & Mustang - http://www.stangtv.com LSX GM - http://www.lsxtv.com Hot Rods & Muscle Cars - http://www.streetlegaltv.com Drag Racing - http://www.dragzine.com Street Rods! - http://www.rodauthority.com Chevy Muscle Cars - http://www.chevyhardcore.com Engine Performance - http://www.enginelabs.com Corvette - http://www.corvetteonline.com Dirt Track - http://www.onedirt.com





Petrol Injector Tester & Cleaner
Fuel Injector Tester & Cleaner





Reset Harley Davidson Magneti Marelli Fuel Injection TPS Settings
This video is about setting the Throttle Position Sensor and cold idle motor of the Magneti Marelli Fuel Injection System used on some Harley Davidsons from 1995 through 2001. I found information on a forum that showed different cold idle voltage settings for the 1340 engine (1340 Domestic/HDI 0.61 to 0.64) volts and the 1450 (1450 Domestic/HDI 0.64 to 0.68) volts twin cam engine that came out in 1999. First of all, let me just say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." If your TPS (throttle position sensor) is not defective and has not been moved from its factory setting, DO NOT TOUCH IT! There's a reason the TPS screws have some sort of epoxy in the heads of them to keep us from tampering with them! I decided to find the info on resetting it to factory specs (with a minor change to the cold idle setting) and doing it myself. So, that being said, if you think you HAVE to wrestle with this beast, maybe this video will help you understand what you are up against. I will tell you it was difficult to keep the TPS still while tightening it down while watching the voltmeter. Anyway, thanks for watching, comment as necessary, especially if I left anything out. I recommend taking your machine to a dealer to have this work performed. Here are the instructions I found on a forum to tell me how to do this with some minor changes to help explain the process a little clearer: Unplug the ISC (cold idle motor/solenoid connector) actuator connector. Back the cold and warm idle screws out enough so they're not affecting anything (leaving a gap between the screw ends and the surface they normally press against to control the idle speed). Backprobe the TPS connector (stick a small sharp pin into the wire to touch your test meter probe to) at the GY/V wire (the grey/violet stripe wire on the right side facing the connector). Connect your volt meter to the probe and ground it to a GOOD ground. With the bike's ignition on (bike not running), loosen the TPS screws enough to turn it side to side and adjust until you get the 0.275V figure on the voltmeter. Lock it down there while watching the voltmeter reading. Next, adjust the cold idle screw by turning it in until you raise the voltage reading to 0.65V. (Using the procedure in the manual will almost always produce a cold idle that's low, if you see an older manual). Click here to read full forum posts: http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index.php?topic=14394.0 Also check this link to the service bulletin from August of 2000 for step by step reset: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uac t=8&ved=0CB4QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.harley-heaven.com%2FM1105_idle_speed _MM.pdf&ei=6VOHVdG7L5OHyATh3YDQDA&usg=AFQjCNG9W5gjzOGCazFcM0lg_fJ9FZdHYA&si g2=iEwg_JosCxbqYfkoo1_idg Power off the bike. Re-connect the ISC (cold idle motor/solenoid connector) actuator connector. Remove the probe pin and voltmeter and make sure area is safe to start the bike. As the bike warms up be ready to adjust the warm idle screw by turning it in to keep the bike from stalling as the cold idle motor/solenoid relaxes the throttle until it comes to rest against the warm idle screw. Adjust the warm idle screw for the bike to idle at about 1000 rpm's. The warm idle screw can be reached through an access hole in the plastic air filter backing plate in case you need to readjust it after everything has been put back together. Bonus Tip: I covered the TPS wires with clear nail polish around the area where the pin was pushed into the wire, both sides, all the way around, to protect the wire from the elements. If you like or found this video to be helpful, donate to my channel, thanks! https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=34EBA5 FB5S7PS Mark Young recommends that a qualified person who is willing to accept full responsibility for any actions based within this video. Due to factors beyond the control of this video uploaded by Mark Young, there is no guarantee against accuracy, unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  Mark Young assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video.  Mark Young recommends safe practices when working with any tools, chemicals or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of this video uploaded by Mark Young, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result due to the information contained in this video, expressly or implied, is the sole responsibility of the user and not Mark Young. This agreement also extends to anyone one else associated with this video and Mark Young.




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