Harley Davidson Magneti Marelli Fuel Injection Settings
This video is about resetting the Throttle Position Sensor of the Magneti
Marelli Fuel Injection System used on some Harley Davidsons from 1995
through 2001. First of all, let me just say, "if it ain't broke, don't fix
it." If your TPS (throttle position sensor) is not defective and has not
been moved from its factory setting, DO NOT TOUCH IT! I have experimented
with changing the settings of the TPS on a few fuel injected machines over
the years and thought this system to be no different. It is, in that it is
very sensitive in how far it is moved. It doesn't take much movement one
way or the other to make it way off from where it should be for a good
running motor. I even had it so far off at one point that it tripped the
check engine light on a test ride! There's a reason the TPS screws have
some sort of epoxy in the heads of them to keep us from tampering with
them! I decided to find the info on resetting it to factory specs (with a
minor change to the cold idle setting) and doing it myself.
So, that being said, if you absolutely HAVE to wrestle with this beast,
maybe this video will help you understand what you are up against. I will
tell you it was difficult to keep the TPS still while tightening it down
while watching the voltmeter. Anyway, thanks for watching, comment as
necessary, especially if I left anything out. Here are the instructions I
found on a forum to tell me how to do this with some minor changes to help
explain the process a little clearer:
Unplug the ISC (cold idle motor/solenoid connector) actuator connector.
Back the cold and warm idle screws out enough so they're not affecting
anything (leaving a gap between the screw ends and the surface they
normally press against to control the idle speed). Backprobe the TPS
connector (stick a small sharp pin into the wire to touch your test meter
probe to) at the GY/V wire (the grey/violet stripe wire on the right side
facing the connector). Connect your volt meter to the probe and ground it
to a GOOD ground. With the bike's ignition on (bike not running), loosen
the TPS screws enough to turn it side to side and adjust until you get the
0.275V figure on the voltmeter. Lock it down there while watching the
voltmeter reading. Next, adjust the cold idle screw by turning it in until
you raise the voltage reading to 0.65V. (Using the procedure in the manual
will almost always produce a cold idle that's low, if you see an older
Power off the bike. Re-connect the ISC (cold idle motor/solenoid connector)
actuator connector. Remove the probe pin and voltmeter and make sure area
is safe to start the bike. As the bike warms up be ready to adjust the warm
idle screw by turning it in to keep the bike from stalling as the cold idle
motor/solenoid relaxes the throttle until it comes to rest against the warm
idle screw. Adjust the warm idle screw for the bike to idle at about 1000
rpm's. The warm idle screw can be reached through an access hole in the
plastic air filter backing plate in case you need to readjust it after
everything has been put back together. Bonus Tip: I covered the TPS wires
with clear nail polish around the area where the pin was pushed into the
wire, both sides, all the way around, to protect the wire from the
Como Funciona a Injeção Eletrônica de Combustível
A injeção eletrônica (português brasileiro) é um sistema de
alimentação de combustível e gerenciamento eletrônico de um motor de um
automóvel - motor a combustão. Sua utilização em larga escala se deve
à necessidade das industrias de automóveis reduzirem o índice de
emissão de gases poluentes. Esse sistema permite um controle mais eficaz
da mistura admitida pelo motor, mantendo-a mais próxima da mistura
estequiométrica (mistura ar / combustível), isso se traduz em maior
economia de combustível já que o motor trabalha sempre com a mistura
adequada e também melhora o desempenho do motor.
O sistema faz a leitura de diversos sensores espalhados em pontos
estratégicos do motor, examina as informações e com base em outras
informações gravadas em sua memória envia comandos para diversos
atuadores espalhados em pontos estratégicos do motor. Esse procedimento é
efetuado varias vezes por minuto com base nos movimentos da cambota.
DIY Fuel Injector Cleaning & Repair
This is the end result of a few hours of work and $60 because I didn't have
a 1/4" NPT tap in any of my kits. I could have done this for less-than
$40. The BG products were donated to the cause.
The REASON you want to use 20 PSI is precisely because of how peak-hold
type injectors work. The injector signal sends a 4v spike to open a
peak-hold type injector quickly, then maintains its open condition with
only 1 volt. Really, it's a current thing and there's a longer
explanation, but that's it in a nutshell. When you put the injector in its
operating pressure, it takes more than a AA battery to open it, but you
don't want to sustain that much current with a momentary switch and your
expensive injectors. This isn't in the video because this warning wouldn't
be as clear. Unless you can simulate the injector pulse precisely, don't
try it. 1.5v is enough to open it below its operating pressure. If you
open it and THEN apply pressure, you can flow as much pressure as you can
throw at it.
I don't discourage anyone from getting their injectors professionally
cleaned and balanced, but in my case, I didn't feel that was necessary.
In my first video, I thanked the seller for these injectors and happy to
know I got a great deal on high quality parts. My gratitude is even
greater because I had problems with them. It gave me an opportunity to
help others troubleshoot these kinds of problems when purchasing used
parts. A different idiot might have blamed the seller for peddling crap,
demanding their money back... but that would only be because they didn't
even know what they were looking at.
This particular idiot knows what high quality parts RC injectors are and
how to clean 'em. $250 + $60 still means I saved about $150 on a brand new
set. We all benefit because I bought these and I'm grateful! Let the good
Fuel Injector Test and Clean
This set of BMW injectors sat in the old motor for some time. This video
shows how this ultrasonic cleaning process can restore the injectors
performance to like new specifications. This set was done in the shop of Mr
Carburetor vs Fuel Injection - Summit Racing 101
What is the difference between a carburetor and fuel injection? Listen as
Dave guides you through 2 barrel carbs, spread bore carbs, race carbs and
compares them to EFI.
To check out Summit Racing's selection of carburetors, click here:
For Fuel Injection EFI systems, click here:
Why Fuel Additives Don't Work The Way You Expect
The Goal - Save Money on Fuel Cost
The Goal - Save Money on Fuel Cost, Maintenance and the Bottom Line In
Order To Reinvest
2 Completely different markets but they both has common goal - To Save
Money On Fuel Cost.
Well there are many fuel additives to choice from but which once can you
trust to used that will not leave something behind. While most additive
will work they tend to use harsh commercials and or petrol based
But in this video are going to share with you a brands ability to burn
clean. Clean means no left over residue once it's introduced to the burn
Take a look and name a winner.
Xp3 Fuel Enhancers are not your everyday fuel additives, nope it's more
then that...it's a fuel enhancers that was produced to burn clean without
increase toxic emissions and without the use of Petrol distillates like
aromatics, Naphtha or Alcohol.
Petrol Fuel Injection Systems
AutoInform http://www.autoinform.co.uk is a FREE bi-monthly online
magazine. In this clip Phillip Ellisden owner of ASNU Injector Diagnostics
discusses the difficulties experienced by technicians dealing with the
modern petrol fuel injection systems
MAP Sensor Quick-Fix
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MAP Sensor Quick-Fix
The MAP sensor, is a 3 wire sensor, that measures intake manifold vacuum.
The ECM,uses this value,to calculate fuel injection open time.
To test the MAP sensor, and circuit, do the following, with MAP sensor
1) First check the ECM circuit, by checking for 5 volts, at one of the 3
MAP sensor wires.
2) Check sensor ground. Check voltage between battery positive, and one of
the MAP sensor wires, either or is fine.
3) Reconnect MAP sensor, then backprobe center wire, should have under 1
volt. That's it for circuit check.
Then, while probing on center signal wire, start engine. If engine won't
start, due to no injection, then it's not the MAP sensor. MAP causes
stumble and rough idle, not no start. If no start, use the No Start
Trubleshooter Software for extended help.
Finally, with MAP sensor, and voltmeter connected, remove MAP sensor, plug
a hose to it, and suck on it. You should see voltage fluctuating. If so,
then engine no start is due to another reason. If engine starts, then use
the waveform database, to determine proper idle running value, and fuel
trims at plus or minus 10%. That's all for the MAP sensor quick fix.