Getting rid of a check engine light with my chevy cobalt @ 100mph (160kmh) 2.2L
This is a video that I have taken randomly on a bridge just for fun and the funny thing is that at the last second when i stop the video, just before that the check engine light disapear when im rolling at 100mph. I never knew what this check engine light was for but its funny to see how it disapeared.
This cobalt is totally stock with the 145hp 2.2L engine.
How to change Automatic Transmission Fluid + Filter in a Chevy Cobalt
This video is to show you how I did the fluid and filter change.
Understand this is only a Drain, Filter Change and Fill not a 100% Fluid
This is not a substitute for your common sense, skill level and reading the
directions! Please work safely!
How to check the level is at 11:07
The vehicle featured was a 2007 Chevy Cobalt with the 4T45-E Automatic
You will need:
Rubber or Nitrile Gloves
7 quarts Dexron VI Automatic Transmission Fluid
Automatic Transmission Filter
3/8" drive ratchet
11mm and 8mm sockets or 7/16" and 5/16"
Floor Jack and Jack Stands (unless you have access to a lift, lucky you)
Large Drain Pan
Old Carpet or Throw Rug to lay on
Funnel with 5/8" Outer Diameter Hose to fit or use what works for you!
Products featured I purchased and use myself:
WIX 58611 Transmission Filter
AMSOIL Low Viscosity ATF
I appreciate sharing, but please give credit or the proper link when
referencing my work. Thank you!
Please Like, Subscribe and Share!
Clear check engine light for less than 5 dollars
More Tutorials on my CHANNEL: http://www.youtube.com/user/moccina
*This video is an EXPERIMENT I wanted to try on my car, and is for
INFORMATIONAL purposes ONLY. This fix is for off-road use. The content
shown in this video is not intended to encourage emissions test cheating.
I enjoy the process of testing theory because you always learn something
new, regardless of the outcome.
Using a spark plug defouler kit, I install a "buffer" in between the
downstream oxygen sensor and the catalytic converter. Quite often,
frustrated car owners get the P0420 code for reasons other than a bad cat.
I have heard of people getting the code just because they removed the
converter and reinstalled it. It can also happen if you run your vehicle
out of gas etc... etc...
It is also common for car owners to get the P0420 code, replace the
converter, and both o2 sensors-- only to have the code come back after 1000
miles or so. This can be a very frustrating, time consuming and of
course-- expensive venture. Here is one way to resolve the issue. Good
luck and have fun!
Check Engine Light Basics - EricTheCarGuy
If you have the code you can look up what it means here
Sorry about the camera focus on this one, whenever I use my wide angle lens
it tends to do this. Aside from that I have a lot of video shot that I
don't intend to post here because of time constraints, these videos will be
made available at a later date through the EricTheCarGuy website. I used
this video because I didn't have anything else this week that I could use
for the show and I like to do at least one a week if I can. I have lots
more scheduled so stay tuned in the coming weeks.
As for Check Engine Lights they come in all shapes and sizes, sometimes
they are easy to diagnose and others can be a bit more challenging. I plan
to do an entire series on this subject so don't consider this the last time
I will cover this. The point of this video is to familiarize yourself
with the basic hook up of a scan tool to read the codes stored in the on
board computer nothing more, I got a bit carried away with my O2 sensor
explanation and had to cut most of it. Much of what I cut from these will
also be available at a later date as a series of "Tips" that may be made
available on future shows or on DVD depending on the subject.
I hope this video is informative if you have any questions you can post
them as a response to this video or visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com,
Click below and Stay Dirty
Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com
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Here are some links to information about retrieving codes from vehicles pre
OBD II. You can also search for OBD I or OBD 0 to get more information
specific to the vehicle that you may be working on.
I hope these help, have a great day.
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee
against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of
this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage
or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this
video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power
tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment,
blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment
seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of
EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any
express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any
injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools,
equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole
responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
Synthetic Oil Basics
Technically, Synthetic Oil originates as traditional mineral based motor
What separates the two is the level of advanced engineering, refinement and
criteria that goes into this modern engine lubricant.
In short, there is no other routine maintenance contributor that can
provide better protection, performance and longevity than today's Synthetic
Extreme Weather Protection:
Under early morning sub-zero winter starts or summertime high temperature
stop-and-go traffic, Synthetic Oils are engineered to deliver vital engine
protection and reliable performance year-round.
Cold Weather Pour Test:
In this laboratory test, a Synthetic-Oil and a Synthetic-Mineral-Blend have
been frozen overnight at minus 40 below.
This pour test illustrates conclusively the cold-start readiness of
Even after six minutes, the blended oil can't keep up.
And, those white globs you see are wax - a standard component of
conventional mineral-based motor oil.
Clearly, Synthetic oil is the best way to ensure that your vital engine
components are adequately lubricated during cold cranking.
New & Old
With very few exceptions, Synthetic Oil is a wise choice for all new and
Modern engine components are built to higher tolerances and levels of
precision and the superior lubricating properties of Synthetic Oil deliver
the finest day-to-day protection against wear.
Older-engines, performance-engines and power-plants-under-heavy-load can
all benefit from the advanced lubrication and low-abrasion attributes of
In all situations, engine seals and gaskets are protected and remain
pliable and effective.
All major auto manufacturers support and specify the use of API certified
lubricants and Synthetic Motor Oil meets and even exceeds all standards and
The advanced additives developed for Synthetic Oil help contribute to
cleaner and more efficient operation during the entire span of the
recommended oil change interval.
Factory Warranties remain intact, un-compromised and supported.
In any case, the best warranty is the one you never have to use and proper
routine maintenance is an effective way to achieve that long-term goal.
Always check your manual and adhere to the manufacturer's recommended
Today's Synthetic Motor Oil is fully compatible with traditional mineral
This means that you can safely upgrade to synthetic oil... or in a pinch,
switch back or partially top-up with conventional mineral oil.
When you factor-in a decrease in engine wear and fuel consumption,
upgrading to Synthetic Oil can add up to long term savings and better
performance throughout the life of your vehicle.
Ultimately, the goal is for fewer repairs, so that you and your car can
spend more of your valuable time on the road and not in the shop.
Since they were first commercially introduced in the mid seventies,
Synthetic Motor Oils have constantly evolved to serve the needs of motorist
and the cars they drive.
Today, there is no better choice than Synthetic Motor Oils for maintaining
engine reliability, performance and protection.
Canadian Tire has the selection, service and know-how to help you with all
your engine lubricant and maintenance needs.
How to clear Check Engine Light and Fault Codes BMW
The method of clearing engine light needs to pass inspection. If you have
check engine light turning on after the car runs for several miles. Park to
nearest Inspection station, and after clearing Check Engine Light, bring in
for inspection. This is good only for car manufactured before 1996 BMW. It
also reset all the fault code BMW.
Below is BMW Fault Codes Table:
How To Clean a Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Here I demonstrate the simple steps involved with cleaning your mass
airflow sensor. In this particular case I was troubleshooting a rough idle
on a 2006 Chevy Colorado 3.5, but these steps can work for almost any
vehicle. If you have any questions feel free to post them and I will do my
best to help!
Here are some of the codes you might see related to your MAF:
P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Malfunction
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0102 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Low Input
P0103 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit High Input
P0104 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Intermittent
P0171 System too Lean (Bank 1)
P0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)
P0175 System too Rich (Bank 2)
Top 5 Used Car Buying Secrets
http://carloansratesnow.com You will learn the Top 5 Used Car Buying
Secrets that unscrupulous dealers & private owners don't want you to
know.http://www.carreality.com Where Cars & Reality Collide.