Wheel Bearing Removal with Harbor Freight Universal Tool BMW 3 Series Rear Front

Thanks for Watching! Follow us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/EdzGarage Checkout my other channel KoolVidz https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUQbwbwMvf7x5O-g2GMZgKw I spent about $150 on tools. These tools can be used for any bearings I may need to do in the future. I bought the tools at Harbor Freight.

More Videos...


Wheel Bearing Install with Harbor Freight Universal Bearing Tool BMW 3 Series Rear Front
Thanks for Watching! Follow us on Facebook https://www.facebook.com/EdzGarage Checkout my other channel KoolVidz https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUQbwbwMvf7x5O-g2GMZgKw I spent about $150 on tools. These tools can be used for any bearings I may need to do in the future. I bought the tools at Harbor Freight.





Pulling wheel bearing race with welder
You don't have to use the temp gun just did it so YOU can see how much heat is put into the hub. Tried this a couple of times, I really like it vs cutting and hammering on the wheel bearing race...it feels so civilized. Takes about 3 minutes to weld and use the 2 jaw puller to pull the honda wheel bearing race with a impact wrench. Of course it is no good if you don't have a welding machine. If you use a ring it will not fold up over itself compared to just 2 tabs on the sides and I think a small tack weld is enough to pull this race. If you use a ring/washer just small tack welds should be enough to stop the ring from sliding up off the race allowing you to pull it off the wheel hub and will keep heat down. There is some heat but it dissipates very quickly vs using a torch to heat the race but I think if you keep the heat away from the neck it should be ok. I will have to measure how much heat cutting a race puts out. The cordless impact wrench I am using is a Milwaukee 2763-20 M18 Fuel but I am sure most any impact will be able to do this. Question asked why use the laser temperature gun? Some pictures of failed wheel hubs https://goo.gl/photos/K9nVjGC3d5PDZ6fw8 wheel hubs can fail for other reasons like high milage,accidents,corrosion,abuse. Using the laser temp I can measure how much heat am i putting into the hub by welding on it and where that heat is going in the hub. That is why i made really small welds that were also short in length to keep the heat down. I'm not sure ,maybe you can put a lot of heat into the hub without causing problems but if you don't have to use a lot of heat then that is better. First I want to know what kind of heat is created with those small welds and we can see that with the laser temp gun there is not much heat at all and it dissipates very quickly. Hope that makes sense?





Press in, out and replace wheel bearing and hub with simple tools.
I show you how to replace wheel bearing with simple tools. 23Pcs Front Wheel Drive Bearing Removal Adapter Puller Pulley Tool Kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/23Pcs-Front-Wheel-Drive-Bearing-Removal-Adapter-Pul ler-Pulley-Tool-Kit-/182244109161?hash=item2a6e986b69:i:182244109161





1930s Rotary Jigsaw [Restoration]
This rotary jigsaw was also known at the Cutawl (Model K8). Based on the age of the motor and the history of patents on this machine, I believe it was made sometime in the 1930s. It had many other cutters available for cutting materials such as metal, wood, leather, fabric, drywall, and essentially anything else that is up to 1.25" thick and softer than hardened steel. This restoration was a lengthly process as the motor needed work as well. I am stunned this motor eventually ran so well. There is zero play in any direction other than back and forth when I move the armature. For a motor that is ~85 years old, I was very surprised to see the bronze bushings having essentially no wear. It's possible they were replaced at one point. After doing research on this tool and talking with some collectors and experts, I learned that there were certain parts that were fragile and prone to damage. The large wheel in the back is attached to the main shaft by a pin that does not go through the centre of the shaft, but is offset. This means that over time, the offset pin allowed the wheel to wear around the shaft and starting wobbling itself to the point of bending/breaking the shaft. I chose not to risk it and left the wheel as is. While looking at a parts diagram of this tool, I decided it was too risky to try and hammer and pry off the rotary mechanism as it's filled with small steel balls and retainer rings. These two things are my enemies. All I do is loose them. The part works completely fine, so there is no reason to mess with it. I could actually see myself using this tool for some applications. It has a very natural feel to controlling the direction of cut and I feel like I could be more accurate with this than a modern jigsaw. Hopefully you get a chance to try one of these out one day! Thank you to Evapo-rust for sponsoring this video! Help secure more tools for future videos (if you want): https://www.patreon.com/handtoolrescue Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/handtoolrescue/




Follow