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Cd4e Meenan transmission

This video is of a CD4E transaxle. This transmission is used in a variety of applications including Ford Escapes, Mercury Mariner ,Mazda Tributes, and a variety of passenger cars. The CD4E transmission is used because it is a compact design that fits many front wheel drive applications. The CD4E transmission has five sets of clutches, two sprags and one band. Many of the problems we see here at Meenan Transmission that occur with the CD4E transmissions are control related. This transmission has a control solenoid pack that contains multiple solenoids that control shift functions, pressure rise, and torque converter lock up functions. This solenoid pack can malfunction and this can cause some drivability concerns. It can also cause a malfunction indicator light to come on or the over drive light to blink. The other more common control related problem is with the pressure regulator section of the valve body. This occurs over time and can lead to a condition where line pressure can go beyond normal and acceptable levels. This over pressure condition can cause internal parts failure. This will likely require removal of the transmission and disassembly for full evaluation. Some of the parts that are prone for failure the forward/direct clutch drum and the overdrive band. When we rebuild CD4E at Meenan Transmissions we take all steps necessary to ensure that a repeat occurrence of these failures can't take place by performing control system modifications that address the route cause of the parts failure. CD4E transmissions after they are rebuilt and modified have proven to be a trouble free reliable transmission and can provide years of trouble free service. SM ____________________________________________________________


 


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Part 4: Removal Planetary Gear Sets, One Way Clutch, Output Shaft, Servo Assemblys
There is a fibro washer there, just take it out. Next is take out the circlip, you need some circlips that go inside out, these are an udjustable set that can do both ways. This is a set which i bought from snap on, part number is PRH32. I have had these for quiet a number of years so i dont know if they are still available.. but see your local tool guy and he will be able to let you know. O.k , so i just remove these circlips... thats our circlip there then we are going to pull our front planetary gear out. Thats our planet if you want to come over here Frank. You have our front planet, our anulus and our washer as well. For a standard rebuild there is nothing wrong with them, they are reusable but we are going to be replacing them with an upgraded 4 pinion planetary gear set. The way you check these planets is by moving the gear side by side and checking the side washers for excess clearance. 10 or so thou is fine. I am also checking them for axial movement or any rock. We are checking the pins for wear. Lets put together the planetary, the anulus and the washer as a set and set them aside. Now.. this is what you call a shell or a bell. Others call it bell others call it shell. The 3 holes are were our washer sits. Next one is another planetary gear, this is our rear planet this works in reverse to give us another ratio. Next in line we have our rear band drum. Thats the drum the rear band wraps around, check this for wear marks or heat spots were the band has been running on. This is quiet good but if you have a lathe give the drum a polish and create a new surface for the drum to run on. Next i will pull the output shaft out. We still have our remaining guts to go, our rear band and our rear one way clutch ( sprag). Once i remove the shaft we can check the output shaft bearing for any wear. There is no washers or any other bearings to check and dont be afraid to loose any parts from here as there is no more loose components. We have our governor in tact and our 2 governor rings. Going back into the case now, before we are able to remove our rear band we need to release our band. We can achieve this by undoing the band udjustment nut , unwinding the udjustment and creating enough slack to pry out our rear band. Next we can remove the one way clutch assembly including all its rollers and ellements. For our rebuild we will be using a modified bolt in sprag to handle the high horsepower. Finally, we can flip our transmission on its side and remove our servo assemblys. We can achieve this by using a G clamp and while compressing the servo piston retainer we can pry out the retainer circlip. I will remove both the front and rear servo's and once this is done, we have completely disasembled our 727 torqueflte transmission. It is getting pretty dark here now, we will knock of work and tomorrow i will show you in our next video how to rebuild a 727 race torquflite to suit 600 horse power.




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