This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under 10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video) was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old stock DSM turbo parts including a worked 14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the internals have changed.
Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking
about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in
the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He
literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just
Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm
likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater
challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all.
Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never
make good use of any larger of a turbo.
I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to
make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is.
This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful
with that downshift.
Friday Night "Street" challenge.
Racing trailer queens at Richmond Dragway's so-called "street" event again.
Making a few passes with the Hyundai Elantra to illustrate a point.
Someone asked about timeslips recently and I wanted to show one of the
types of information you can gain from examining what's on it. Information
about yourself, and your car. How well you're driving it, and how well
your equipment is working for you.
I built it up with the current video explaining the 60' time measurement
while installing compound tires. I figured that timing was appropriate
since tires have everything to do with traction and acceleration. The 60'
is all about maximizing acceleration over the 1st 60 feet of the track.
The results of running different 60' times show up differently at the end
of the track. A FWD, RWD and AWD car will exhibit different
characteristics based on contact patches, weight distribution and rotating
mass associated with each setup. But FWD is by far the most challenging to
deal with getting up out of the hole.
Mastering the launch with your car means more at the track than making all
the horsepower in
the world at once. Getting it down takes practice. Here's a quick guide
for how to set your expectations. So if drag racing is your thing...
always be convinced you could do it better, and never stop trying to get
DIY Parts Washer
IF you have access to compressed air, you can clean, degrease and restore
the finish on automotive parts (and anything else really, not just DSMs)
using the simple, inexpensive tools and supplies I demonstrate in this
AUDIO TRACK BY: ROJODELCHOCOLATE*
Some things don't fit in a parts washer. Sometimes you can't remove them
from a vehicle. Sometimes you need to bring your parts washer to your
project instead of the other way around. This INEXPENSIVE method for parts
cleaning solves all of those problems. Caked-on grease, grime, carbon and
oil are no match against this simple solution.
For between $6 and $30 you can purchase a siphon-feed blow gun... spray
gun... whatever you want to call it. NAPA sells an American made unit
that's more expensive (like I used here) that occasionally suffer from
quality control issues, and Harbor Freight sells one for $6 that I have no
experience with. The tool is so simple that I can't see why it would work
Mineral spirits (coal oil) is a highly-refined petroleum-based, low-odor,
low-volatility solvent that can be used for many purposes from thinning
paint to serving as thread cutting oil. Automotive professionals found
that it actually lifts oil out of metal. This makes it an ideal choice for
engine parts cleaning. Because most fluids in your car are
petroleum-based, it's the ideal thinner to cut through the grease and wash
away the funk. It has a much higher flash point than other solvents that
are effective at cleaning up grease and oil. It's very similar to
No special breathing aparatus is required. Gloves and googles are
recommended. Because of its rapid evaporation, only minor preparations
need to be made to your workspace to deal with the run-off. Vaporized
mineral spirits evaporate completely just a few feet away from the blow
gun, and drippings evaporate leaving only what washed off of your parts
behind. If cleaning requires the use of brushes to break up soiled areas,
use brushes that are appropriate for the materials you're cleaning.
All in all, this solution costs about $10 for tools, and about $15 a gallon
for mineral spirits. NO auto parts store solution like degreasers, or
stinky, hazardous, toxic chemicals like brake cleaner will deliver these
results. If you do this once, you'll be spoiled rotten. You will keep
coming back to this mobile parts washer again and again whenever you need
to degrease something. It's that good.
Machine shops will clean your parts for you. You can do this without
leaving your garage. Bring your own air compressor, and the bigger the
better because of recovery time... but the siphon action isn't physically
complicated, and anything from a pancake air compressor on-up will work.
Oh... one more thing... Oil the &$^% out of cast iron parts when you're
done. When stripped of oil, they will rust nearly instantly on contact
with water or acids from your skin. Oil them. Soak them in clean oil
Tools you'll need...
Siphon-feed blow gun:
***** In the UK, Mineral Spirits are called White Spirits. *****
In China, White Spirits is pronounced "bok WHY?" with emphasis on why.
Literally translated, that's "white ghost". It also means "egg" but I
believe it's said a little differently.
ba kwai is a derogatory slang term that Chinese use to describe white
people. I'm not kidding. Either way, being called an egg might possibly
bother a white person somewhere? Perhaps this is why I forgot to mention
it in the video? It's too funny of a fact to leave out of the description.
So, go make breakfast and have fun with your cheap, racist parts washer...
no matter what color skin you're wrapped in.
Mineral Spirits can be bought at your local hardware store.
Mineral Spirits MSDS sheet (for the stuff I used in the video):
Paint trays, wire brushes, and empty paint cans are also available at your
local hardware store. I found that a 1 quart can with the lid cut off is
the perfect size for cleaning pistons. Yes, you did see me bust out the
Farberware can opener in my garage. A garage is simply a man's kitchen, so
I see nothing wrong with this. Of course, it can be a woman's kitchen
too... it just needs appliances that are appropriate for use near flammable
liquids IF I'm going to be preparing any food while she fixes my car. I
would never change my car's oil in a kitchen, though. I also wouldn't use
cookware to catch automotive fluids. Just sayin'.
* The man made me an 18 minute song in a day. Maybe some of you write
music? Words can't describe how grateful I am to receive a quarter of an
album from somebody on such short notice, or to explain my gratitude for
Major Huge Announcement
This video is a quick update on the projects here on Jafromobile right now,
as well as a tour and history lesson on my latest addition. I'm always
hard at work to bring you all new material based on Mitsubishi production
and partnerships from 1987-1999. Also covered are what's necessary to
resurrect a car that's been sitting for many years. If it's got a 4g63, to
me... it's always worth saving. My channel now has 4 Mitsubishi-powered
projects in the works which should be capable of delivering tons of new
I'd like to welcome all of you from the forums. My history with Mitsubishi
began in 1997, and hasn't taken a day off since. Owning one of these has
been long overdue for me, and you guys have been a wealth of knowledge that
helped me along my travels. An asset to the DSM community, even though
this isn't a DSM.
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 3
I have bad news. The big camera's playback heads bit the dust from
extensive prolonged use. I wore out the tape drive. No manner of cleaning
tapes can fix what it's been through. I've talked many times about how
much footage goes into one of my 15 to 30 minute videos, and for every hour
of video footage I've shot, the camera does double-duty because after
shooting, it has to be played back in real time during capture. I've done
more than 130 videos this way, probably over 2000 hours of use in the
harshest of environments, and it just couldn't handle it any longer. I
shot several more tapes beyond what's in this video that I can't even
import because the play heads failed. I don't know if any of that video
even stuck to the tapes?
The lost footage from the last video was an early and un-recognized sign of
what was soon to come. I know I joked about it, but in reality it's really
not very funny at all. I can't afford a backup for a piece of equipment
like this, so it's something I don't have. As bad as this news might feel
to you, I feel it 21,000 times over and I mean that. This couldn't come at
a worse time and expense for me, and at a point where my production was
really starting to wrap up on this project to move on to bigger and better
things. It's the only camera I have that can do what I do here on this
channel, so I'm forced to stop production for now.
Even though my camera is huge, 7 year old HDV technology, these things
still sell for several thousand dollars used because they record
un-compressed video unlike every other flash storage based solution
available at twice the price. 3CCD 1080/60i HD cameras that shoot to tape
have advantages that you can't affordably achieve with solid-state media.
I have to use un-compressed footage to do what I do here or else there's
nothing left of the video quality after 7 exports and a final mpeg
compression. The Sony Action Cam can't do it, we learned that in a
previous test video. Even if it could, it can't do close-ups and
everything's fisheyed. Buying a low-end 4K camera is impractical because I
can't efficiently or effectively edit that video without a $9,000 computer.
Jafromobile is just not that big of a channel, and I do this completely
un-sponsored and at my own expense with the help of a handful of friends
who volunteer their talent, time and information. It's the epitome of
low-budget and what it earns still doesn't come close covering the
channel's equipment and expenses as they occur.
People have urged that I do a kickstarter, but I can't bring myself to ask
for that from the community. I don't sell a product or offer services so
there is no profit margin. I can't accept money for something that happens
only at the speed of my available resources. To me, this channel is my
proverbial gift horse to all of you.
I know what you're thinking and I realize this is a grim conclusion to this
video. It sounds like I'm down for the count, but don't rush to the down
vote button just yet. As of the upload date of this video, I'm paying out
of pocket to fix a ridiculously expensive 3CCD 1080HD broadcast quality
video camera so that these projects can resume, and so that I can bring the
final assembly steps to you in the same quality you've grown used to seeing
here on Jafromobile.
If I wear out a camera every 3 years, then so be it. This is love, and no
expense is too great. The big camera is being fixed by its manufacturer,
and I'm expecting the repair to cost as much as replacing it. I sincerely
hope that's not the case. Hopefully my production only has to take a short
break. Once production resumes and I can import these tapes, I've got some
really awesome stuff coming up and I hope every last one of you is here to
see it. I may have a few other backlogged nuggets I can upload, and as
always I'm happy to discuss this in the comments and provide updates on the
repair as I get them.
Update: Awaiting quote due by 5/16 according to the repair agreement.
5/9/2014 9:17:00 AM DELIVERED NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 5:36:00 AM DESTINATION SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 12:04:00 AM ARRIVAL SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/12/2014 - Repair paid in full $440. Far less than I was expecting. I'm
glad they still make parts for 7 year old professional equipment. Thank
You Canon, USA! Repair should be complete within 7 business days from
receipt of payment. The quote only took them 24 hours and they quoted a
week just for the estimate, so at this rate I should be back up and running
once again very soon. Thank ALL of you for your kind words, HUGE
generosity, and all of the moral support. I swear I have the best
subscribers on YouTube!
Hyundai Assembly 6 - Manifolds & Turbo
I love music videos. They're so much easier to narrate. I don't want to
upset anyone by not providing commentary about what I'm doing or where this
build is going... and this is the video where all that stuff comes
together. Quite frankly, I missed you. I really enjoy these little talks
In this video is a little fabrication, maintenance, comparison and
assembly. Un-boxings, cleanup, break-fix... Variety! You know... The
stuff that keeps happening as you wrap up any build. It's not a longblock
until it has manifolds, and a turbo
build has a few more things than just that in order to make it complete.
My attention has now turned towards preparing the chassis and accessories
for installation and I promise there will be more involved videos following
this one for the hardcore auto techs. Whether you're watching or wrenching
on this one, all this stage does is create anxiety for wanting to hurry up
and finish the install, but don't rush. Do it right!
These are the non-reusable parts for the turbo install. ALL of the other part numbers in
the video were shown:
MF241255 x2 Oil Drain Bolts (upper)
MF101229 x2 Oil Drain Bolts (lower)
MF660031 x2 Oil Drain Gasket (washer)
MR258477 x2 Oil Drain Gasket (flange)
MF660064 x2 Oil Feed Crush Washer (turbo)
MF660063 x2 Oil Feed Crush Washer (head)
MF660065 x4 Coolant Crush Washer (turbo)
MD132656 x4 turbo Bolt (M10 x 80 x
MD132933 x8 turbo Spring Washers
Thank you all for keeping up with this build. Thanks especially for the
kind comments and interest in this project! You guys are the best!
GSX Startup (Nov. '09)
I wanted to deliver a video without my normal beats and fast-forward edits.
I wanted to represent this moment for the subscribers, fans and friends
exactly the way it happened.
Wheels, Plastidip and Mickeys
What starts as an innocent venture into wheel painting ends in a sticky,
sticky episode of badassery.
Plastidip is spray-on rubber. This is the first time I've ever worked with
My review: It comes in colors but my favorite is black. It's good stuff.
What I did should have had me spraying it on last... because mounting tires
will remove it from a wheel. Most people doing this painted their wheels
while tires were mounted. This is what happens when you don't. So what?
It's spray-on rubber. Spray on some more and you're good.
If you want the BEST results with it (since it can be expensive in some
regions), allow no less than 10 minutes between coats, and spray LIGHT
COATS. That's capitalized because squeezing out a light coat of spray-on
rubber is much easier said than done. It's like lightly-spraying Silly
String, or setting your fire extinguisher to "low". Or trying to bathe in
a waterfall with good intentions, but getting knocked on your ass by the
force of falling water instead. I'm amazed at how easy a product like this
is to work with in concept. It sprays differently than paint, but its
application is easily mastered once you get the feel for it. I give it...
d (ツ) b
Hyundai Assembly 5 - Fighting The Valve Clearance
In previous videos I showed the 2 factors that really need to be
scrutinized. Valve clearance and how you degree your camshafts. Of course
we got sidetracked with plenty of other tips and tricks but I wanted to
upload this video to illustrate that the process really isn't as easy as
the animations, demonstrations and explanations make it look. The
reasoning is sound, but the work to execute it can be very tedious.
Setting up the valvetrain on this engine was very tedious. I say "was"
because following this video, we can put that whole topic to bed. This is
what it took. Not many people have the patience to deal with this, and I
wanted to showcase here for those who are at the peak of their frustration
with their builds. This kind of stuff can happen to anyone. Let my pain
and suffering help you not feel so all alone.
My apologies for the lack of new groundbreaking technical info. It's not a
complicated task to install ARP head studs, and that was my plot twist.
There are a couple of hurdles you may encounter depending on the production
year of your engine, but they're well illustrated in this video. I'm not
sure if their installation warrants a video all unto itself, but if you
feel it does, speak up because I have 3 more engines to build. I can still
I just wanted to demonstrate that progress is being made on this, and
despite the long breaks between uploads, a LOT is going on behind the
scenes. This was 20 hours of repetitive work and I hope it's at least
mildly entertaining. For me, this was the most boring video I've ever
edited here because I had to re-live the same steps so many times, over and
over again. I could very easily have inserted an hour of it in the wrong
place and nobody would ever have known because it all looks the same. The
text overlays are there only so you can be aware of what's different. A
voiceover would have been pointless because the techniques illustrated are
discussed ad-nauseum in the Cylinder Head 205 and 206 videos. The valve
cover gasket installation process was covered in "Valve Cover Modification
and Polishing", and the discussion about compression ratios is explained in
"Calculate Your Compression Ratio". If you like the job the parts washer
did, check out my DIY parts washer video. ;)
Cylinder Head 205
Cylinder Head 206
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
Cylinder Head 206 - Valve Clearance (& LSA)
This video is the companion and continuation video for Cylinder Head 205.
In Cylinder Head 205 we covered the tools and technique for setting valve
timing versus the factory-recommended specifications. It didn't work,
thus; this video. How do I know it didn't work? Watch this video.
The reason this is a companion video is because anyone changing their valve
timing must also CHECK their valve clearance or risk bending valves. If I
can install aftermarket cams, then I have made significant changes to my
valve clearance. If I move cam gears on an engine that was previously
running, then I have made significant changes to my valve clearance. If I
have milled my head or block, I have made significant changes to my valve
clearance. If I have installed larger valves, I have made significant
changes to my valve clearance. Mitsubishi doesn't build a whole lot of
wiggle room into their valvetrains. They keep the valves pretty tight to
maximize performance and a 4g63 IS an interference engine. Note that if
you follow the recommendations in this video and damage your valvetrain
that I am not responsible. Here I demonstrate all of the techniques to
ensure that damage never occurs because these tests are performed PRIOR to
the engine ever starting, and prove that clearance is adequate for THE
PARTS I SHOW HERE ON CAMERA. There can be components installed in other
rotating assemblies that require additional clearance to be built into your
valve clearance such as aluminum rods, or other alloys employed in the
casting and forging of rotating assembly parts and valves. I strongly urge
you to check with those manufacturers for their recommendations regarding
thermal expansion, stretch, bounce rocker gap or float prior to making any
adjustments, and use this video only as a documentation of my experience.
In other words, it's my opinion. What works in your engine will likely be
very different from mine, but the tests and the math shown here will work
the same with your build.
To find your intake valve clearance... Add your intake valve opening
degrees (btdc) to your intake valve closing degrees (abdc) to 180°.
IO + IC + 180 = DURATION
DURATION ÷ 2 = LOBE CENTERLINE
LOBE CENTERLINE - IO = INSTALLED INTAKE CENTERLINE
To find your Exhaust valve
clearance... Add your Exhaust valve
opening degrees (bbdc) to your intake valve closing degrees (atdc) to
EO + EC + 180 = DURATION
DURATION ÷ 2 = LOBE CENTERLINE
LOBE CENTERLINE - EC = INSTALLED Exhaust CENTERLINE
To get your Lobe Separation Angle, ADD your INSTALLED INTAKE CENTERLINE to
your INSTALLED Exhaust CENTERLINE and
divide that result by 2.
Intake Centerline + Exhaust Centerline
÷ 2 = LSA
Tight Lobe Separation Angles
* MOVE TORQUE LOWER IN THE POWER BAND
* INCREASE MAXIMUM TORQUE OUTPUT
* INCREASE CYLINDER PRESSURE
* INCREASE CRANKING COMPRESSION
* INCREASE EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION
* INCREASE COMBUSTION CHAMBER SCAVENGING EFFECT
* SHORTEN YOUR POWER BAND
* REDUCE IDLE VACUUM!
* REDUCE IDLE STABILITY
* INCREASE LIKELIHOOD OF KNOCK!
* INCREASE OVERLAP
* DECREASE PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE!
Wide Lobe Separation Angles
* MOVE TORQUE HIGHER IN THE POWER BAND
* DECREASE MAXIMUM TORQUE OUTPUT
* LENGTHEN YOUR POWER BAND
* DECREASE CYLINDER PRESSURE
* DECREASE LIKELIHOOD OF KNOCK
* DECREASE CRANKING COMPRESSION
* DECREASE EFFECTIVE COMPRESSION
* INCREASE IDLE VACUUM
* IMPROVE IDLE STABILITY
* DECREASE OVERLAP
* DECREASE COMBUSTION CHAMBER SCAVENGING EFFECT
* INCREASE PISTON TO VALVE CLEARANCE
There's more that I want to say about Lobe Separation Angle (LSA). If
you're tuning a DOHC engine with cam gears, you're very lucky to go through
all this trouble. The pushrod and SOHC crowd can't change their lobe
separation angles without replacing their camshaft, and on many engines
that means removing the cylinder heads. On a 4g63 with adjustable gears,
you loosen the lock bolts, turn, lock it back down and you've adjusted your
LSA. This is a luxury which if you've never had to build a SOHC or a
pushrod engine and install camshafts that you take for granted. DOHC
tuning permits the ability to alter the opening and closing events of the
valves independently of one another and perfect the valve timing during
tuning without having to completely remove and replace the valvetrain.
What this also means is that the pushrod crowd needs to know and understand
a lot more about their camshaft profiles prior to making their purchase as
we [the DOHC crowd] do. They have to be on their A-game when they drop the
coin on a new cam or else things get expensive really quick. Lobe
separation angle says more about how camshafts behave than duration and
lift, but all 3 should be carefully scrutinized when you're making that
Yes, I did actually animate my engine's valve timing exactly the way HKS
said to set it up. Yes those are all actual photos of my parts. Yes that
was the biggest Photoshop file I've ever created.
LOOK! The update is actually typed here in the description.
The gear-head in me never stops. I took a vacation. It still doesn't stop
when I do that, either. It's just who I am. I owe you all an update.
This has been the longest break in uploading I've ever taken. I've never
posted anything personal like this before. I probably won't leave this up
for long, but several of you have sent me messages checking on me to make
sure I'm okay... and this is the easiest way to reach you all at once.
The GSX build has to take a very temporary back seat. Call it a Rebecca
Black... whatever you want... it's generating a stockpile I can't work
around and front-seat passengers must take first-priority. My shelves are
full of disassembled cars and it's become one of them. The main problem is
that the middle of the garage... where the car should be... It's filled up
with a yellow thing. A yellow thing that I love and want to finish. I hit
a roadblock, but I bought the thing that lets me cut the thing out of the
other thing so I can weld it in that thing. I've got it all figured out
now... I had to take a break to figure it out.
I went to California for a week.
The Galant: This thing so far has cost me a lot of money since the last
video, and those efforts have yet to fix the problem. I love the Galant,
and it's getting a lot of my resources lately... but its problems take time
and space to resolve. It's parts are practically as big as the car. I
have nowhere to put them.
The GSX: see... here I go again, I just can't stop thinking about it. I
need a CLEAN garage to build the motor.
The Hyundai: We learned that putting drag radials on a 102 mph Hyundai
still nets you a 102 mph because it needs a clutch for all that extra
traction. I need a garage to install a clutch.
That's the update on my projects. I'm still working very hard on them to
get all of them done, but I just have to finish what started on the Colt
first... even though it takes time.
What will follow immediately since I know other car people might enjoy the
car things I saw on vacation... I look to these events for inspiration and
they really get my creative chemistry flowing. I don't care how old
something is, it just has more character. I don't care what brand it is,
they all have their merits. Everything mechanical tells a story. The
history of previous attempts to re-engineer the automobile are why we drive
DSMs today. We're always re-engineering these things ourselves. It's
important to see how other people do things, or else there's no way to
learn from someone else's failures... and there's no way to measure your
own success... see how to set your goals...
Thank you for watching my videos, and I hope you can excuse me posting
these events the way they occurred. They're all in vivid 1080HD as I was
testing a Sony HXR-NX70U with a Merlin2 steadicam. I think many of you
would be interested in seeing this material. DSM content is forthcoming,
and will be uploaded very soon.
Hyundai Assembly 7 - Chassis Preparation
This car had issues. I don't want to drag the chassis preparation out into
13 videos so I put it all right here. This is the first Jafromobile 1-hour
special. Really it's 20 hours, but I won't make you sit through all that.
This is the video where you'll see the direction of the Hyundai project
come together. RojoDelChocolate lent me a helping hand at the end, and
helped me get the car to the point where the engine can be installed.
The build videos were great and all... but after taking drastic measures to
increase airflow on this odd-ball project car, it's clear the rest of the
chassis is not quite up to the task. Half of what I do here is to fix
cosmetic and safety-related issues, but the other half is crucial to being
able to supply this engine with the fuel it needs, as well as enough power
to all the fancy new-fangled devices that will be taxing the alternator. I
feel like I do a pretty good job at describing most of it in the video, but
for those of you who want specifics and engineering details behind these
modifications, specifics about the products I'm using, my parts and
equipment list is below, as well as links to these manufacturer's sites and
data from other people's research...
ECMlink v3 - http://www.ecmtuning.com/
Innovate LC-2 Wideband o2 sensor -
JayRacing Alternator Relocation Kit -
Snap-On Torque Wrenches -
Products I used came from:
...and Snap-On dealer Adeel Soyfoo
Stevetek fuel system upgrade:
GM alternator install: (merged thread and more, read it ALL)
Fuel parts used:
25 feet of Russell aluminum tubing. Steel works best, I was being lazy.
3 qty 90° -6AN HOSE END fittings
1 qty -6AN 90° female/female fitting
1 qty straight -6AN HOSE END fitting
1 qty 45° -6AN HOSE END fitting
3 feet of Nylon braided rubber and PTFE hose
2 qty 5/16" tubing to -6AN compression fitting adapters
2 qty 3/8" tubing to -6AN compression fitting adapters
1 qty -6AN high-flow 40 micron fuel filter
1 qty Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator (with gauge)
4 qty RC PL4-750 fuel injectors
1 qty "big flange" DSM fuel rail to -6AN adapter*
1 qty "small flange" DSM fuel rail to -6AN adapter*
* 1g and 2g cars use different flange combinations.
Big time shout-out to Bad Obsession Motorsport! If you have not watched
their channel, you should.