This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under 10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video) was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old stock DSM turbo parts including a worked 14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the internals have changed.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 engine's
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Cylinder Head 205 - Degree 4g63 Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and
adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of
several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine
on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your
engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why...
is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome
when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and
they're all defeated here.
The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been
resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care
about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no
less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are
recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it
was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will
change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your
engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same.
I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos
broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to
the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will
be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool
fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning
the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking
your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this
video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to
digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in
length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on
Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion
chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is
their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most
out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those
specifications without additional hardware or without causing a
catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next
video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the
manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process.
It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your
combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional
adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206
should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure
to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine
is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist
Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of
mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 3
I have bad news. The big camera's playback heads bit the dust from
extensive prolonged use. I wore out the tape drive. No manner of cleaning
tapes can fix what it's been through. I've talked many times about how
much footage goes into one of my 15 to 30 minute videos, and for every hour
of video footage I've shot, the camera does double-duty because after
shooting, it has to be played back in real time during capture. I've done
more than 130 videos this way, probably over 2000 hours of use in the
harshest of environments, and it just couldn't handle it any longer. I
shot several more tapes beyond what's in this video that I can't even
import because the play heads failed. I don't know if any of that video
even stuck to the tapes?
The lost footage from the last video was an early and un-recognized sign of
what was soon to come. I know I joked about it, but in reality it's really
not very funny at all. I can't afford a backup for a piece of equipment
like this, so it's something I don't have. As bad as this news might feel
to you, I feel it 21,000 times over and I mean that. This couldn't come at
a worse time and expense for me, and at a point where my production was
really starting to wrap up on this project to move on to bigger and better
things. It's the only camera I have that can do what I do here on this
channel, so I'm forced to stop production for now.
Even though my camera is huge, 7 year old HDV technology, these things
still sell for several thousand dollars used because they record
un-compressed video unlike every other flash storage based solution
available at twice the price. 3CCD 1080/60i HD cameras that shoot to tape
have advantages that you can't affordably achieve with solid-state media.
I have to use un-compressed footage to do what I do here or else there's
nothing left of the video quality after 7 exports and a final mpeg
compression. The Sony Action Cam can't do it, we learned that in a
previous test video. Even if it could, it can't do close-ups and
everything's fisheyed. Buying a low-end 4K camera is impractical because I
can't efficiently or effectively edit that video without a $9,000 computer.
Jafromobile is just not that big of a channel, and I do this completely
un-sponsored and at my own expense with the help of a handful of friends
who volunteer their talent, time and information. It's the epitome of
low-budget and what it earns still doesn't come close covering the
channel's equipment and expenses as they occur.
People have urged that I do a kickstarter, but I can't bring myself to ask
for that from the community. I don't sell a product or offer services so
there is no profit margin. I can't accept money for something that happens
only at the speed of my available resources. To me, this channel is my
proverbial gift horse to all of you.
I know what you're thinking and I realize this is a grim conclusion to this
video. It sounds like I'm down for the count, but don't rush to the down
vote button just yet. As of the upload date of this video, I'm paying out
of pocket to fix a ridiculously expensive 3CCD 1080HD broadcast quality
video camera so that these projects can resume, and so that I can bring the
final assembly steps to you in the same quality you've grown used to seeing
here on Jafromobile.
If I wear out a camera every 3 years, then so be it. This is love, and no
expense is too great. The big camera is being fixed by its manufacturer,
and I'm expecting the repair to cost as much as replacing it. I sincerely
hope that's not the case. Hopefully my production only has to take a short
break. Once production resumes and I can import these tapes, I've got some
really awesome stuff coming up and I hope every last one of you is here to
see it. I may have a few other backlogged nuggets I can upload, and as
always I'm happy to discuss this in the comments and provide updates on the
repair as I get them.
Update: Awaiting quote due by 5/16 according to the repair agreement.
5/9/2014 9:17:00 AM DELIVERED NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 5:36:00 AM DESTINATION SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 12:04:00 AM ARRIVAL SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/12/2014 - Repair paid in full $440. Far less than I was expecting. I'm
glad they still make parts for 7 year old professional equipment. Thank
You Canon, USA! Repair should be complete within 7 business days from
receipt of payment. The quote only took them 24 hours and they quoted a
week just for the estimate, so at this rate I should be back up and running
once again very soon. Thank ALL of you for your kind words, HUGE
generosity, and all of the moral support. I swear I have the best
subscribers on YouTube!
New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car
from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of
scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket
performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by
traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to
stick before encountering this.
More on this build...
The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from
Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from
Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget
was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and
it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video.
I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I
could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid
half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides.
Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the
pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water
pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is
an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore
6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion
chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The
radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk
car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my
150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This
is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because
of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the
chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just
that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when
they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful.
Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be
changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the
plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing
anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have
anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that
way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these
generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to
the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough.
In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the
breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in
the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch
harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil
pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and
this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil
pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a
restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing
lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.
Jamie's 92 Hyundai Elantra with bastard 4g63 swap
There's a history both behind this car, and the friendship with this
person. I met him 10 years ago following a random conversation that I
injected myself into between 2 strangers at an auto parts store. I had
just bought a '92 Civic CX with crap compression and was picking up some
service parts to keep it limping and useful while I built my DSM. I
overheard him mention "4g63" to somebody as I walked by, so I turned around
and introduced myself without any clue that he was one of the "realest"
people I've ever known.
What occurred for me in the following discussion was an awakening on my
part. He led me to an adjacent parking lot where an un-assuming Hyundai
Elantra sat. This isn't the one, but is one of many factory cars that he's
swapped a 4g63 into. What he managed to get through my big thick skull was
there were lots of great inconspicuous chassis that you can simply bolt a
4g63 into. Over time it became evident where you can find lots of "racing"
parts, from factory equipment on various mini-vans, station wagons, much of
the Hyundai line-up from '92-'95. During the "DSM Years", there were
plenty of cars from other manufacturers that made dynamite donors, and this
sparked my ability to be frugal in some of my ventures.
If you ever meet Jamie, expect his knowledge of car parts both inside and
outside the realm of Mitsubishi to be as unassuming on the surface as the
car in this video. He has true talent. Finds peace and happiness in a
junkyard full of decay, and skills that create useful high-performance art
from what many consider rubbish. Because he's already taken time walking
around with parts from one car and bolting them on to others to see if
they'll fit, worked as a machinist's apprentice rebuilding everything under
the sun, and done the tech work to analyze failures in all of it, he's
often my go-to guy for advice when things aren't working correctly. Many
times he's come through for me in a pinch and shed light on something I
didn't understand. That goes both for examples in the automotive domain,
and in real life when I've hit hard times. Many of my parts for the Colt
came from his past builds on various Mitsubishis and Hyundais. In fact...
many of my Colt parts have come from this very car.
He gave this chassis to somebody, and they returned it later because life
didn't let them finish it. I don't think it took even a month once he put
his mind to working on it to get it in this state, and it was
motorless-and-in-pieces. I can't wait to see these parts get bolted on
this car. I think we'll have a new textbook definition of sleeper when
Major Huge Announcement
This video is a quick update on the projects here on Jafromobile right now,
as well as a tour and history lesson on my latest addition. I'm always
hard at work to bring you all new material based on Mitsubishi production
and partnerships from 1987-1999. Also covered are what's necessary to
resurrect a car that's been sitting for many years. If it's got a 4g63, to
me... it's always worth saving. My channel now has 4 Mitsubishi-powered
projects in the works which should be capable of delivering tons of new
I'd like to welcome all of you from the forums. My history with Mitsubishi
began in 1997, and hasn't taken a day off since. Owning one of these has
been long overdue for me, and you guys have been a wealth of knowledge that
helped me along my travels. An asset to the DSM community, even though
this isn't a DSM.
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
'n all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint all depressed cause I seen this before.
I got my books and my wrench and we'll do it once more.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
If anything you could say that this bling is rare,
and when I saw what broke I stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag
passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions,
3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
LOOK! The update is actually typed here in the description.
The gear-head in me never stops. I took a vacation. It still doesn't stop
when I do that, either. It's just who I am. I owe you all an update.
This has been the longest break in uploading I've ever taken. I've never
posted anything personal like this before. I probably won't leave this up
for long, but several of you have sent me messages checking on me to make
sure I'm okay... and this is the easiest way to reach you all at once.
The GSX build has to take a very temporary back seat. Call it a Rebecca
Black... whatever you want... it's generating a stockpile I can't work
around and front-seat passengers must take first-priority. My shelves are
full of disassembled cars and it's become one of them. The main problem is
that the middle of the garage... where the car should be... It's filled up
with a yellow thing. A yellow thing that I love and want to finish. I hit
a roadblock, but I bought the thing that lets me cut the thing out of the
other thing so I can weld it in that thing. I've got it all figured out
now... I had to take a break to figure it out.
I went to California for a week.
The Galant: This thing so far has cost me a lot of money since the last
video, and those efforts have yet to fix the problem. I love the Galant,
and it's getting a lot of my resources lately... but its problems take time
and space to resolve. It's parts are practically as big as the car. I
have nowhere to put them.
The GSX: see... here I go again, I just can't stop thinking about it. I
need a CLEAN garage to build the motor.
The Hyundai: We learned that putting drag radials on a 102 mph Hyundai
still nets you a 102 mph because it needs a clutch for all that extra
traction. I need a garage to install a clutch.
That's the update on my projects. I'm still working very hard on them to
get all of them done, but I just have to finish what started on the Colt
first... even though it takes time.
What will follow immediately since I know other car people might enjoy the
car things I saw on vacation... I look to these events for inspiration and
they really get my creative chemistry flowing. I don't care how old
something is, it just has more character. I don't care what brand it is,
they all have their merits. Everything mechanical tells a story. The
history of previous attempts to re-engineer the automobile are why we drive
DSMs today. We're always re-engineering these things ourselves. It's
important to see how other people do things, or else there's no way to
learn from someone else's failures... and there's no way to measure your
own success... see how to set your goals...
Thank you for watching my videos, and I hope you can excuse me posting
these events the way they occurred. They're all in vivid 1080HD as I was
testing a Sony HXR-NX70U with a Merlin2 steadicam. I think many of you
would be interested in seeing this material. DSM content is forthcoming,
and will be uploaded very soon.
Out with the old, in with the new.
I bet you were expecting a different car. Sorry.
I didn't want to, nor did I ask to troll you with this video. It's just
what it is. I set out to burn some rubber, drop some bass, and have some
fun in the Hyundai... and this is what happened.
Testing in this video... aside from the opening scene, I shot this video at
1080p30 using an head-mounted Sony HDR-AS30V Action Cam. The camera was
contained in the incuded waterproof case because I needed to test the audio
with it. It sounds great with out it. It sounds only good with it. This
is a test to see how I can adjust my shooting style to add 1st-person
perspective to my videos for everyone's benefit. The follow-up video will
be shot entirely with the "big camera" (Canon XH-A1s)
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking
about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in
the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He
literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just
Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm
likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater
challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all.
Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never
make good use of any larger of a turbo.
I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to
make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is.
This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful
with that downshift.
Hyundai Elantra - 2014
En este video os hago una review en profundidad del "Hyundai Elantra FL
MY14 MPI Techno" de 2014. Interiores, exterior, sonido del motor, ...
Año de fabricación: 2014
Cilindrada: 1.600 cc
Potencia: 132 cv
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► Canales / Channels:
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1g AWD Rear Subframe Bushing Replacement
These are Boostx rear subframe
bushings for a 1g AWD. The factory rubber bushings can be affected by
heat, cold, oils, age, air, dry rotting... they were 22 years old, and
might not have been bad for a stock chassis... but this car isn't stock
anymore. We're attempting to replace them in this video in order to
stiffen the rear sub-frame and improve this car's launch characteristics.
If the bushings are weaker than the power you're putting down vs. the
weight you're moving, they can give, affecting toe, camber, caster and
generally reduce the traction and handling characteristics of the car.
Substituting Polyurethane bushings in place of the factory rubber bushings
is a great way to solve this problem.
Removing the factory bushings seems complicated if you've never done it.
What it really takes is just patience and fire (and a lot of it). During
this video you'll see us get impatient and grab an air chisel. That's the
wrong tool for the job. It makes for cool video footage, but it simply
can't do what fire does for this job. The torch you use makes a
difference. The nozzle on most propane torches is a little too small to do
this efficiently. The bigger nozzle the better. You'll see and hear us
cover this. You can burn these bushings out with a small fire, but you'll
make up for that with your time.
I've received lots of great comments whenever I break out the torch. Yes,
I'd love to have an Oxy-acetylene rosebud that can burn through plate
steel. Yes, I'd love to have had the foresight to buy a MAP cylinder
instead of propane. But the propane method for burning these out is really
ideal because it's less likely to melt the steel bushing surrounds. Less
of the rubber becomes airborne particulates with a colder flame. But yes,
it takes longer. I think we spent a half-hour to 45 minutes torching both
sets of bushings out.
Once the majority of the rubber is burnt away from the sleeve, use a
brass-bristled wire wheel to remove the rest. We didn't have a brass wheel
big enough for the K-member bushings, so we used a steel wheel. Just keep
in mind not to be too aggressive or use the wrong tools like carbide bits
or grinding stones for the excess because you want to leave as much metal
in there as you can. The bushings need to fit tight inside the sleeves
when you're done.
There are 6 washers used on the AWD subframe that have rubber castings on
them to fit inside the factory rubber bushings. With the poly bushings
there are no provisions for these washers the way they are. The rubber is
no longer necessary, so burning that off allows you to re-use the washers
rather than replace them. Be aware of which washers come from where. 2 of
them have dimples in them that recess into the rear "moustache bar,
boomerang bar, thing that holds the rear in". You want the big-side of
that bushing against the dimpled washer, and the ring side of the bushing
against the chassis where those parts meet. If you press the bushing in
backwards, there's nothing to hold that spacer ring supplied with those
bushings into the assembly. It will just fall off.
I can't wait to hear about how these things work out because my 2g has a
100% factory suspension including the struts that came with it 160,000
miles ago. I'd like to give it the same treatment that this car received.