This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under 10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video) was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old stock DSM turbo parts including a worked 14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the internals have changed.
New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car
from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of
scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket
performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by
traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to
stick before encountering this.
More on this build...
The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from
Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from
Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget
was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and
it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video.
I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I
could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid
half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides.
Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the
pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water
pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is
an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore
6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion
chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The
radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk
car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my
150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This
is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because
of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the
chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just
that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when
they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful.
Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be
changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the
plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing
anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have
anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that
way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these
generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to
the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough.
In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the
breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in
the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch
harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil
pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and
this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil
pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a
restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing
lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.
CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag
passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions,
3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
And all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint trying to get depressed cause I got all my spares out.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
The 7-bolt was FRESH with the shine like a mirror
If anything I can say this bling was rare
What I saw inside the engine stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking
about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in
the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He
literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just
Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm
likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater
challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all.
Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never
make good use of any larger of a turbo.
I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to
make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is.
This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful
with that downshift.
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
DIY Parts Washer
IF you have access to compressed air, you can clean, degrease and restore
the finish on automotive parts (and anything else really, not just DSMs)
using the simple, inexpensive tools and supplies I demonstrate in this
AUDIO TRACK BY: ROJODELCHOCOLATE*
Some things don't fit in a parts washer. Sometimes you can't remove them
from a vehicle. Sometimes you need to bring your parts washer to your
project instead of the other way around. This INEXPENSIVE method for parts
cleaning solves all of those problems. Caked-on grease, grime, carbon and
oil are no match against this simple solution.
For between $6 and $30 you can purchase a siphon-feed blow gun... spray
gun... whatever you want to call it. NAPA sells an American made unit
that's more expensive (like I used here) that occasionally suffer from
quality control issues, and Harbor Freight sells one for $6 that I have no
experience with. The tool is so simple that I can't see why it would work
Mineral spirits (coal oil) is a highly-refined petroleum-based, low-odor,
low-volatility solvent that can be used for many purposes from thinning
paint to serving as thread cutting oil. Automotive professionals found
that it actually lifts oil out of metal. This makes it an ideal choice for
engine parts cleaning. Because most fluids in your car are
petroleum-based, it's the ideal thinner to cut through the grease and wash
away the funk. It has a much higher flash point than other solvents that
are effective at cleaning up grease and oil. It's very similar to
No special breathing aparatus is required. Gloves and googles are
recommended. Because of its rapid evaporation, only minor preparations
need to be made to your workspace to deal with the run-off. Vaporized
mineral spirits evaporate completely just a few feet away from the blow
gun, and drippings evaporate leaving only what washed off of your parts
behind. If cleaning requires the use of brushes to break up soiled areas,
use brushes that are appropriate for the materials you're cleaning.
All in all, this solution costs about $10 for tools, and about $15 a gallon
for mineral spirits. NO auto parts store solution like degreasers, or
stinky, hazardous, toxic chemicals like brake cleaner will deliver these
results. If you do this once, you'll be spoiled rotten. You will keep
coming back to this mobile parts washer again and again whenever you need
to degrease something. It's that good.
Machine shops will clean your parts for you. You can do this without
leaving your garage. Bring your own air compressor, and the bigger the
better because of recovery time... but the siphon action isn't physically
complicated, and anything from a pancake air compressor on-up will work.
Oh... one more thing... Oil the &$^% out of cast iron parts when you're
done. When stripped of oil, they will rust nearly instantly on contact
with water or acids from your skin. Oil them. Soak them in clean oil
Tools you'll need...
Siphon-feed blow gun:
***** In the UK, Mineral Spirits are called White Spirits. *****
In China, White Spirits is pronounced "bok WHY?" with emphasis on why.
Literally translated, that's "white ghost". It also means "egg" but I
believe it's said a little differently.
ba kwai is a derogatory slang term that Chinese use to describe white
people. I'm not kidding. Either way, being called an egg might possibly
bother a white person somewhere? Perhaps this is why I forgot to mention
it in the video? It's too funny of a fact to leave out of the description.
So, go make breakfast and have fun with your cheap, racist parts washer...
no matter what color skin you're wrapped in.
Mineral Spirits can be bought at your local hardware store.
Mineral Spirits MSDS sheet (for the stuff I used in the video):
Paint trays, wire brushes, and empty paint cans are also available at your
local hardware store. I found that a 1 quart can with the lid cut off is
the perfect size for cleaning pistons. Yes, you did see me bust out the
Farberware can opener in my garage. A garage is simply a man's kitchen, so
I see nothing wrong with this. Of course, it can be a woman's kitchen
too... it just needs appliances that are appropriate for use near flammable
liquids IF its food preparation that we're talking about. I would never
change my car's oil in a kitchen, though. I also wouldn't use cookware to
catch automotive fluids. Just sayin'.
* The man made me an 18 minute song in a day. Maybe some of you write
music? Words can't describe how grateful I am to receive a quarter of an
album from somebody on such short notice, or to explain my gratitude for
Block Cleanup & Oil System Mods
With no data other than another person's testimony and from observing the
condition of failed rod bearings I was able to determine this engine
suffered problems from high oil pressure. There are 3 modifications that
wanted to perform to its oil system, and 2 parts I chose to replace. All
of the videos that go into greater detail about these modifications and
parts are linked from this video. Though I've covered these topics, this
is a video of the work being done to the Hyundai because it's part of its
Also in the process I've stripped and removed all gaskets in preparation
for parts washing. All of these tasks can be completed without an air
compressor by taking your time with a razor blade or using electric
grinding tools. If you're doing this kind of work, I strongly suggest for
time's sake that you use an air compressor. If you have access to an air
compressor and any of these [cheap] tools, then you can do these kinds of
modifications for less than $20. NAPA sells everything but the spudger
(below) individually so there's no need to buy these consumable supplies in
3m bristle discs:
I used this cleaning up the oil pan. It's a spudger. An electronics tool.
I also used 3m Scotch Brite wheels to clean the oil pan's gasket surface.
Major Huge Announcement
This video is a quick update on the projects here on Jafromobile right now,
as well as a tour and history lesson on my latest addition. I'm always
hard at work to bring you all new material based on Mitsubishi production
and partnerships from 1987-1999. Also covered are what's necessary to
resurrect a car that's been sitting for many years. If it's got a 4g63, to
me... it's always worth saving. My channel now has 4 Mitsubishi-powered
projects in the works which should be capable of delivering tons of new
I'd like to welcome all of you from the forums. My history with Mitsubishi
began in 1997, and hasn't taken a day off since. Owning one of these has
been long overdue for me, and you guys have been a wealth of knowledge that
helped me along my travels. An asset to the DSM community, even though
this isn't a DSM.
Driveshaft 102 - Remove Universal Joints
This is how I prefer to press out U-joints. I don't have a bearing press
yet, but you don't have to have one to do this. There are many ways to do
this job, and some work better than others. Each method comes with a
different set of advantages and disadvantages; however, I am from the
school that teaches not to beat on your driveshaft with a hammer.
I've seen so many people banging and pounding on their u-joints with a
hammer and to me it just doesn't make any sense. I really don't believe
that's the best way to do it. Maybe they like the sound of banging on
steel pipes? Maybe they hate their neighbors? Maybe they just can't shake
a certain ex girlfriend from their thoughts and it brings them some relief?
I say, why risk damaging the saddles and ruining the part? Why bang on a
brand new universal joint with 4 sets of needle bearings in it? To save
time? I refuse to beat on my driveshaft. So you're going to see a
different method than the mainstream. If you can press it out, why on
earth would you bang on it if you have other tools that can do a better
Since the 2-jaw puller is needed to do other parts of this job, might as
well put 'er to good use and get 'er done.
4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination
on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video
will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video
of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in
the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by
combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater
degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft
belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When
that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft,
wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it
can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over
10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and
heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have
balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at
home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy
punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not
enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil
filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's
regulated at 15 PSI.
Out with the old, in with the new.
I bet you were expecting a different car. Sorry.
I didn't want to, nor did I ask to troll you with this video. It's just
what it is. I set out to burn some rubber, drop some bass, and have some
fun in the Hyundai... and this is what happened.
Testing in this video... aside from the opening scene, I shot this video at
1080p30 using an head-mounted Sony HDR-AS30V Action Cam. The camera was
contained in the incuded waterproof case because I needed to test the audio
with it. It sounds great with out it. It sounds only good with it. This
is a test to see how I can adjust my shooting style to add 1st-person
perspective to my videos for everyone's benefit. The follow-up video will
be shot entirely with the "big camera" (Canon XH-A1s)
Grinding Oil Return Channels
I started cleaning the rust out, and got carried away. I didn't want to do
as extensive of a cleanup job as I did on the GSX, but still wanted to make
improvements because of the kinds of oil-related problems it experienced.
There's a method to this madness. It will make more sense once I get
around to bolting the oil pan back on. The techniques in this video are
things I had to do right now if I was going to do them at all. Some of
them really needed to be done anyway.
You really don't see people do these tricks on imports. Just because you
don't see it, it doesn't mean it can't help. I hope you enjoyed the motor
oil drag races in the middle of the video. They speak for the science
behind this mod... without having to get all scientific. Those results
speak clearly for themselves, and there's plenty of chances to get
scientific as the Glyptal treatment of the GSX is completed.
In this video...
I used steel wire cup brushes for both an air DIY grinder, and a Dremel to
remove the rust.
I used a cone-shaped carbide double-cut burr to smooth the crankcase.
I polished the crankcase with coarse and medium sanding rolls for both an
air DIY grinder and a Dremel.
I used a 1/4" ball carbide double-cut burr to grind the channel.
I used a pack of Harbor Freight #95947 10-Piece Tube Brush Kit.
Blueprint 108 - inspect the deck
There's a reason why there are no subtitled specifications in this video
for the block. It's because they don't exist in either service manual, 1g
or 2g. You're not supposed to remove material from a block on the deck
surface because it has ill effects on parts of the combustion chamber
geometry, and alters your compression ratio. It can be done intentionally
in some cases for a desired side-affect, but if you have to deck a 4g63
head, it would be advised to use a thicker head gasket. The Mitsubishi
Multi-Layered-Steel or MLS gasket is slightly thicker than the OEM
composite gasket. Also, HKS, Power Enterprise, Cometic, and other
performance brands all make MLS gaskets that are .065 and thicker.
THERE IS ONE ERROR IN THE VIDEO. I said a block with .002" warpage is
junk. I was completely and totally wrong. While I don't wish to spread
misinformation, I don't think it's a big enough error to warrant re-editing
this video. I just wasn't paying attention. .002" warpage on a cylinder
head is the service limit before it needs machining. I meant to say
.02"... or two HUNDREDTHS (not thousandths) of an inch.
...and here's my justification...
A warped block to me is junk either way even if its minimal because your
MLS gasket will never seal unless both the head and the block are perfectly
flat. Trust your machine shop to get the values for how much is taken off,
and buy the correct thickness gasket for your machine work.
A factory head gasket (composite) is .051"
The MLS Mitsubishi gasket is available in the stock .051 and a .062"
Cometic makes gaskets up to .072"
There are some brands that go as high as .127", but I'd have thrown both
the block and head away long before then.
Tom's Turbo Garage: Eagle Talon AWD Turbo Upgrade - Part Two
In this episode, we finish the T3 based PTE 6266 turbo upgrade on my DSM. After getting all of the
parts bolted in, we go for a road test to get the initial ECMLink tune
You can see a complete modification list and many more photos and details
For more details on my DIY water alcohol injection setup, please visit
Thanks for watching!
WORLD Racing Presents: Descendant Engine Build
In this video Engine Builder, Gary Kubo and Team Manager, Rob Cardona
explain some of the dynamics that go in to assembling one of our WORLD
Racing engines while giving you some insight on why we choose to use the
high quality components we do and how these components contribute to our
success in racing.
WORLD Racing offers various packages for the 2AZ-FE and 2AR-FE engines
found in late model Scion tC's and xB's.
Built, Balanced & Blue Printed by WORLD Racing
JE 253055 Pistons w/ Heavy Duty .210" Wall Wristpin
BC BC625+ Connecting Rods w/ARP 625+ Custom Age Fasteners (4340E
Descendant Main Studs
Descendant 3/8 inch Head Studs (1/2 inch available by request)
OEM Oil Pump - Blueprinted
OEM Water Pump
New Bearings: Race Specific Rod Bearings, Seals, Chains, & Gaskets
BC 0341T turbo Cams - Stage II
BC 1340 Heavy Duty Valve Springs
BC 2340 Titanium Retainers
BC 3344 35.0mm Intake Valves (+1mm)
BC 3345 30.5mm Exhaust Valves(+1mm)
Descendant Intake Manifold by Golden Eagle Manufacturing
Race Cylinder Head by Port Flow:
Includes disassembly and cleaning of cylinder head plus inspection prior to
port & polishing, multi-angle valve job, de-shroud valve area in chamber,
polish of chambers, surface deck, assembly of cylinder head and finally we
check cam lash.
These engines are designed to produce up to 1,100HP depending on fuel,
climate, engine management and turbo
sizing. Please call one of our professionals for more specific details and
WORLD Racing Inc.
WORLD Motorsports West
2170 W. 190th Street
Torrance, CA 90504
WORLD Racing uses the highest quality components available on the market
BC (Brian Crower)
Golden Eagle Manufacturing
Port Flow Design - Competition Cylinder Heads