This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under 10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video) was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old stock DSM turbo parts including a worked 14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the internals have changed.
Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking
about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in
the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He
literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just
Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm
likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater
challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all.
Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never
make good use of any larger of a turbo.
I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to
make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is.
This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful
with that downshift.
Hyundai Assembly 5 - Fighting The Valve Clearance
In previous videos I showed the 2 factors that really need to be
scrutinized. Valve clearance and how you degree your camshafts. Of course
we got sidetracked with plenty of other tips and tricks but I wanted to
upload this video to illustrate that the process really isn't as easy as
the animations, demonstrations and explanations make it look. The
reasoning is sound, but the work to execute it can be very tedious.
Setting up the valvetrain on this engine was very tedious. I say "was"
because following this video, we can put that whole topic to bed. This is
what it took. Not many people have the patience to deal with this, and I
wanted to showcase here for those who are at the peak of their frustration
with their builds. This kind of stuff can happen to anyone. Let my pain
and suffering help you not feel so all alone.
My apologies for the lack of new groundbreaking technical info. It's not a
complicated task to install ARP head studs, and that was my plot twist.
There are a couple of hurdles you may encounter depending on the production
year of your engine, but they're well illustrated in this video. I'm not
sure if their installation warrants a video all unto itself, but if you
feel it does, speak up because I have 3 more engines to build. I can still
I just wanted to demonstrate that progress is being made on this, and
despite the long breaks between uploads, a LOT is going on behind the
scenes. This was 20 hours of repetitive work and I hope it's at least
mildly entertaining. For me, this was the most boring video I've ever
edited here because I had to re-live the same steps so many times, over and
over again. I could very easily have inserted an hour of it in the wrong
place and nobody would ever have known because it all looks the same. The
text overlays are there only so you can be aware of what's different. A
voiceover would have been pointless because the techniques illustrated are
discussed ad-nauseum in the Cylinder Head 205 and 206 videos. The valve
cover gasket installation process was covered in "Valve Cover Modification
and Polishing", and the discussion about compression ratios is explained in
"Calculate Your Compression Ratio". If you like the job the parts washer
did, check out my DIY parts washer video. ;)
Cylinder Head 205
Cylinder Head 206
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
DIY Parts Washer
IF you have access to compressed air, you can clean, degrease and restore
the finish on automotive parts (and anything else really, not just DSMs)
using the simple, inexpensive tools and supplies I demonstrate in this
AUDIO TRACK BY: ROJODELCHOCOLATE*
Some things don't fit in a parts washer. Sometimes you can't remove them
from a vehicle. Sometimes you need to bring your parts washer to your
project instead of the other way around. This INEXPENSIVE method for parts
cleaning solves all of those problems. Caked-on grease, grime, carbon and
oil are no match against this simple solution.
For between $6 and $30 you can purchase a siphon-feed blow gun... spray
gun... whatever you want to call it. NAPA sells an American made unit
that's more expensive (like I used here) that occasionally suffer from
quality control issues, and Harbor Freight sells one for $6 that I have no
experience with. The tool is so simple that I can't see why it would work
Mineral spirits (coal oil) is a highly-refined petroleum-based, low-odor,
low-volatility solvent that can be used for many purposes from thinning
paint to serving as thread cutting oil. Automotive professionals found
that it actually lifts oil out of metal. This makes it an ideal choice for
engine parts cleaning. Because most fluids in your car are
petroleum-based, it's the ideal thinner to cut through the grease and wash
away the funk. It has a much higher flash point than other solvents that
are effective at cleaning up grease and oil. It's very similar to
No special breathing aparatus is required. Gloves and googles are
recommended. Because of its rapid evaporation, only minor preparations
need to be made to your workspace to deal with the run-off. Vaporized
mineral spirits evaporate completely just a few feet away from the blow
gun, and drippings evaporate leaving only what washed off of your parts
behind. If cleaning requires the use of brushes to break up soiled areas,
use brushes that are appropriate for the materials you're cleaning.
All in all, this solution costs about $10 for tools, and about $15 a gallon
for mineral spirits. NO auto parts store solution like degreasers, or
stinky, hazardous, toxic chemicals like brake cleaner will deliver these
results. If you do this once, you'll be spoiled rotten. You will keep
coming back to this mobile parts washer again and again whenever you need
to degrease something. It's that good.
Machine shops will clean your parts for you. You can do this without
leaving your garage. Bring your own air compressor, and the bigger the
better because of recovery time... but the siphon action isn't physically
complicated, and anything from a pancake air compressor on-up will work.
Oh... one more thing... Oil the &$^% out of cast iron parts when you're
done. When stripped of oil, they will rust nearly instantly on contact
with water or acids from your skin. Oil them. Soak them in clean oil
Tools you'll need...
Siphon-feed blow gun:
***** In the UK, Mineral Spirits are called White Spirits. *****
In China, White Spirits is pronounced "bok WHY?" with emphasis on why.
Literally translated, that's "white ghost". It also means "egg" but I
believe it's said a little differently.
ba kwai is a derogatory slang term that Chinese use to describe white
people. I'm not kidding. Either way, being called an egg might possibly
bother a white person somewhere? Perhaps this is why I forgot to mention
it in the video? It's too funny of a fact to leave out of the description.
So, go make breakfast and have fun with your cheap, racist parts washer...
no matter what color skin you're wrapped in.
Mineral Spirits can be bought at your local hardware store.
Mineral Spirits MSDS sheet (for the stuff I used in the video):
Paint trays, wire brushes, and empty paint cans are also available at your
local hardware store. I found that a 1 quart can with the lid cut off is
the perfect size for cleaning pistons. Yes, you did see me bust out the
Farberware can opener in my garage. A garage is simply a man's kitchen, so
I see nothing wrong with this. Of course, it can be a woman's kitchen
too... it just needs appliances that are appropriate for use near flammable
liquids IF I'm going to be preparing any food while she fixes my car. I
would never change my car's oil in a kitchen, though. I also wouldn't use
cookware to catch automotive fluids. Just sayin'.
* The man made me an 18 minute song in a day. Maybe some of you write
music? Words can't describe how grateful I am to receive a quarter of an
album from somebody on such short notice, or to explain my gratitude for
New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car
from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of
scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket
performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by
traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to
stick before encountering this.
More on this build...
The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from
Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from
Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget
was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and
it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video.
I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I
could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid
half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides.
Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the
pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water
pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is
an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore
6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion
chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The
radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk
car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my
150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This
is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because
of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the
chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just
that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when
they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful.
Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be
changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the
plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing
anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have
anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that
way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these
generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to
the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough.
In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the
breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in
the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch
harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil
pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and
this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil
pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a
restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing
lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra
cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)...
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Friday Night "Street" challenge.
Racing trailer queens at Richmond Dragway's so-called "street" event again.
Making a few passes with the Hyundai Elantra to illustrate a point.
Someone asked about timeslips recently and I wanted to show one of the
types of information you can gain from examining what's on it. Information
about yourself, and your car. How well you're driving it, and how well
your equipment is working for you.
I built it up with the current video explaining the 60' time measurement
while installing compound tires. I figured that timing was appropriate
since tires have everything to do with traction and acceleration. The 60'
is all about maximizing acceleration over the 1st 60 feet of the track.
The results of running different 60' times show up differently at the end
of the track. A FWD, RWD and AWD car will exhibit different
characteristics based on contact patches, weight distribution and rotating
mass associated with each setup. But FWD is by far the most challenging to
deal with getting up out of the hole.
Mastering the launch with your car means more at the track than making all
the horsepower in
the world at once. Getting it down takes practice. Here's a quick guide
for how to set your expectations. So if drag racing is your thing...
always be convinced you could do it better, and never stop trying to get
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 2
Continued progress on the Hyundai build. I've covered most of this before
in detail, so I'll save you the fancy narrative. The torque settings are
in both the info below, and the video shown on the wrench. You will see
this process again here, and each time new aspects of assembly tools and
materials will be used.
SPECIAL THANKS TO ROJODELCHOCOLATE for the audio track.
Oil Pan Bolts
18 7 M6 x12 5'lbs MD012109
2 7 M6 x8 5'lbs MD167134 (some cars use 10mm shorties but 8mm will
1g Front Case Bolts
4 7 M8 x20 17'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x25 17'lbs MF140227
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233
1 4 M10 x30 22'lbs MF140062 (6-bolt)
1 7 M8 x40 17'lbs MF140233 (7-bolt)
1g oil pump housing bolts
5 4 M8 x20 12'lbs MF140025 (4qty for 7-bolt and add 1 MD141302 screw)
1 10 M8 x16 27'lbs MD040758 (Balance/Stub shaft bolt)
Oil Pump Sprocket Nut
1 11 M10 x 40'lbs MD095237 *use Loctite
1g oil filter housing bolts (that I used w/6-bolt water-cooled OFH)
2 7 M8 x40 14'lbs MF241261
1 7 M8 x20 14'lbs MF140225
1 7 M8 x55 14'lbs MF241264
1 7 M8 x65 14'lbs MF241266
1g Rear Main Seal Housing Bolts
5 7 M6 x16 10'lbs MF140205 (6-bolt)
5 7 M6 x14 10'lbs MF140204 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tesnsioner Bolts
2 7 M8 x51 17'lbs MD129350 (6-bolt)
2 7 M8 x55 17'lbs MD190987 (7-bolt)
1g Timing Tensioner Arm Bolt
1 8 M8 x16 16'lbs MF241251 Bolt
1 x x x x MD129421 Washer
6 11 M12 x22.5 98'lbs MD040557* (ALL Manual transmission 6-bolt cars)
7 11 M12 x21.5 98'lbs MD302074 (ALL Manual transmission 7-bolt turbos)
* Part substitution # 2795A956
Crank Sprocket Bolt & Washer
1 11 M14 x40 87'LBS MD074255 CRANKSHAFT CENTER BOLT
1 x M14 x14.5 MD012455 CRANKSHAFT WASHER
For gasket, seal and service parts information, please refer to my 6-bolt
4g63 shortblock rebuild parts video:
For timing belt service parts information and tools, please refer to my
4g63 Timing Belt Parts video:
In 29 and 3/4 minutes I offer a detailed explanation of how to do a 6-bolt
AND 7-Bolt 4g63 Front Case & Oil Pump Rebuild:
For 33 minutes I cover every oil filter housing including servicing
information, rebuilding, modifying the oil filter housing, and the
unabridged description of how oil pressure works in my 4g63 Oil Filter
Hyundai Assembly 6 - Manifolds & Turbo
I love music videos. They're so much easier to narrate. I don't want to
upset anyone by not providing commentary about what I'm doing or where this
build is going... and this is the video where all that stuff comes
together. Quite frankly, I missed you. I really enjoy these little talks
In this video is a little fabrication, maintenance, comparison and
assembly. Un-boxings, cleanup, break-fix... Variety! You know... The
stuff that keeps happening as you wrap up any build. It's not a longblock
until it has manifolds, and a turbo
build has a few more things than just that in order to make it complete.
My attention has now turned towards preparing the chassis and accessories
for installation and I promise there will be more involved videos following
this one for the hardcore auto techs. Whether you're watching or wrenching
on this one, all this stage does is create anxiety for wanting to hurry up
and finish the install, but don't rush. Do it right!
These are the non-reusable parts for the turbo install. ALL of the other part numbers in
the video were shown:
MF241255 x2 Oil Drain Bolts (upper)
MF101229 x2 Oil Drain Bolts (lower)
MF660031 x2 Oil Drain Gasket (washer)
MR258477 x2 Oil Drain Gasket (flange)
MF660064 x2 Oil Feed Crush Washer (turbo)
MF660063 x2 Oil Feed Crush Washer (head)
MF660065 x4 Coolant Crush Washer (turbo)
MD132656 x4 turbo Bolt (M10 x 80 x
MD132933 x8 turbo Spring Washers
Thank you all for keeping up with this build. Thanks especially for the
kind comments and interest in this project! You guys are the best!
Cylinder Head 205 - Degree DOHC Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and
adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of
several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine
on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your
engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why...
is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome
when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and
they're all defeated here.
The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been
resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care
about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no
less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are
recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it
was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will
change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your
engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same.
I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos
broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to
the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will
be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool
fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning
the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking
your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this
video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to
digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in
length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on
Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion
chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is
their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most
out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those
specifications without additional hardware or without causing a
catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next
video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the
manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process.
It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your
combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional
adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206
should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure
to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine
is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist
Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of
mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its
Major Huge Announcement
This video is a quick update on the projects here on Jafromobile right now,
as well as a tour and history lesson on my latest addition. I'm always
hard at work to bring you all new material based on Mitsubishi production
and partnerships from 1987-1999. Also covered are what's necessary to
resurrect a car that's been sitting for many years. If it's got a 4g63, to
me... it's always worth saving. My channel now has 4 Mitsubishi-powered
projects in the works which should be capable of delivering tons of new
I'd like to welcome all of you from the forums. My history with Mitsubishi
began in 1997, and hasn't taken a day off since. Owning one of these has
been long overdue for me, and you guys have been a wealth of knowledge that
helped me along my travels. An asset to the DSM community, even though
this isn't a DSM.
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
'n all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint all depressed cause I seen this before.
I got my books and my wrench and we'll do it once more.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
If anything you could say that this bling is rare,
and when I saw what broke I stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag
passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions,
3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO!
We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's
bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different
brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and
standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC.
If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done
here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through
11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from
the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for
instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a
demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections.
You gotta do the cooking by the book.
I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular
car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case
study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are
several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that
shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my
videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts.
You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This
car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this
same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having
this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how
and why I do things the way I do when I get there.
This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a
video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month
to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for
YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the
whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a
Hyundai Assembly 4 - Balancing Rods
I edited this video to its finished state, and RojoDelChocolate handed me a
track with no collaboration that was the right length and rhythm. I
literally did nothing to the video once the audio track was dropped in, and
that's just how it went. I can't believe it. It's like when you're
pumping gas into a Ford F150 full-blast and release the pump handle to stop
right on $80.00 even. He's got more musical talent in his pinky fingernail
than I have mechanical ability in my spleen, appendix and tonsils combined.
Thank you RojoDelChocolate.
Here I'm cleaning up the fly cuts, balancing the piston and rod assemblies
and preparing to double-check my valve clearance. I had to start by
cleaning up and re-lubricating every part that was removed to prevent
contamination of the assembly. This is the tedious part of doing the job
We learned that this whole engine assembly was pretty far-gone in previous
videos, way past its service limits, so making it fit and work again takes
extensive testing, machining, and re-testing to ensure all of the parts
fit. This is likely the most challenging build I will perform on any car
in my driveway. It has been so far. But because I have not demonstrated
the basics of engine balancing beyond what a machine shop has to do to zero
balance a flat-plane crankshaft, I thought I'd give it its own video right
here with one of the test assemblies.
When you balance rods by themselves, you balance the big-end and the
pin-bore separately. You get weights of both ends of the rod using a jig
and a process that I don't demonstrate in this video. The reason you do
this is because the position of the weight behaves differently relative to
its distance from the crankshaft pin. Weight on the big end has less of an
effect than if there's extra weight on the pin bore. The best balanced
engines have every part of the piston and rod assemblies balanced
separately within .1 grams using the method I just described, and not the
method shown in this video.
The method shown here involves weighing ALL of the piston and rod assembly
components together, and then taking out the difference just on the casting
lines of the connecting rod. They were already off-balance and had never
been balanced before. This is an improvement, not perfection. It's still
something this engine needed to have done. I'm not using the
big-end/small-end method here because these pistons are pressed-on and if I
try to remove them from the rod, it will shatter the piston skirts. No
thank you. I'm not replacing these pistons.
The reason I grind down the casting lines is because it's weight is in a
neutral territory, extending from the big end to the small end. It's
easier to take an even amount off when you grind across the entire length
of the rods. This method leaves a lot up to assumption as there's no way
to determine which end of the rod is heavier, or if the weight is in a
wrist pin or piston. All this does is ensure the crankshaft is spinning an
even amount of weight on all 4 of its rod journals. Grams of weight turn
into pounds of force at idle speeds. My goal is to remove that vibration
at any and all rotations per minute if I can. So I make them all the same
within 1.0 grams of their combined weight.
If you're assembling and balancing all NEW parts, not parts that have worn
together and need to go back in the same holes... you will have to balance
the individual parts and pieces. This is the poor man's method. Even with
the new parts you still do the poor man's method once you're done balancing
the individual parts and assemble them, but sometimes when you're lucky
with the new parts, you can just swap around the rods, pins and fasteners
to balance the weights on each assembly and not have to grind anything at
all. That's awfully nice when that happens. You know the Hyundai won't
let me get away with that.
Removing stress risers might help strengthen the rods, but it's not what
I'm after here or else I would have removed the whole casting line from all
of them. These rods should be fine for my goals. My goal is to remove
just enough from all of the fatter rods (weight wise) to match the lightest
Balancing an inline 4 engine with a flat-plane crank is easy if you have
already balanced the crankshaft. This crank was already balanced for the
GSX motor on a previous occasion. It's zero'd out. In order to balance
the rotating assembly, all you do is make the piston and rod assemblies
weigh identically to its neighbors. Just 3 grams of weight can produce
over a hundred pounds of lateral forces at red-line so this is an aspect of
engine building that you should not overlook. All you need to do is get
all of them within 1 gram. The scale I'm using measures whole grams, so
that's all I can do anyway. This method is acceptable for balancing a
rotating assembly as long as you're smart about how to remove the weight.