Jamie's Boosted Hyundai Elantra (Oct '11)

This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under 10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video. There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video) was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build a whole car. In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old stock DSM turbo parts including a worked 14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the internals have changed.

More Videos...

Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just for me. Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all. Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never make good use of any larger of a turbo. I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is. This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful with that downshift.

Hyundai 11 - 1st Startup & Heat Cycle
Thank you for clicking "The Link" in the end of the previous video. On a 1st startup, there are lots of things to pay attention to. It's hard to know which one to look at first, but a good rule of thumb is to start with oil pressure and go from there. If you don't achieve a healthy oil pressure level immediately at startup, shut it down. Failure to pressurize the oil system will quickly kill all of your hard work within seconds as there are no break in lubricants available that will save you from a lack of oil pressure. The reason for this is that your rotating parts float on a cushion of oil. All your main and rod bearings do is regulate the thickness of that oil film layer. If the oil supply runs out, metal-on-metal contact begins and that continues to damage those parts until they receive oil pressure. Everything that needed to be said about the oil pump preparations was in the video. Every car with hydraulic lifters makes lots of noise on their first startup. It's just what they do. If you use a low-temperature grease to prepare your oil pump assembly, then the noise will subside faster. If you use multi-purpose brake grease like I did, then it will take until the engine is at full operating temperature and your radiator fans cut on before it melts, passes through the lifters, and stops blocking oil flow to the valve train. The lifters aren't the only source of oil for the camshafts, and a 4g63 utilizes roller rockers, so during the noisy portion of the break-in, no damage is being caused by this noise. It's just important to try to listen through it and see if there are any other kinds of knocks, squeals or bangs that are out of place. You'll see me do that quite obviously in the video. Don't try to tune or adjust things on a cold engine. Your efforts are useless until its up to its normal operating temperature because there are engine components and ECU routines that change dependent upon the engine temperature. After the engine has warmed up, set your base timing, adjust the idle speed, and then go after other factors that may affect the idle performance. You don't tune your fuel trims, ignition timing or anything else until you achieve a steady, stable, closed loop idle. Lastly, don't drive the car until it's at least idling properly. I will do 2 more heat cycles addressing bugs and tuning issues, and after the 3rd heat cycle I drive 'er around, adjust the clutch, re-torque the axle nuts and then change the oil. Thank you for following this car's build. I can't say that enough. You guys, not me, you guys make all of this possible.

Hyundai Assembly 5 - Fighting The Valve Clearance
In previous videos I showed the 2 factors that really need to be scrutinized. Valve clearance and how you degree your camshafts. Of course we got sidetracked with plenty of other tips and tricks but I wanted to upload this video to illustrate that the process really isn't as easy as the animations, demonstrations and explanations make it look. The reasoning is sound, but the work to execute it can be very tedious. Setting up the valvetrain on this engine was very tedious. I say "was" because following this video, we can put that whole topic to bed. This is what it took. Not many people have the patience to deal with this, and I wanted to showcase here for those who are at the peak of their frustration with their builds. This kind of stuff can happen to anyone. Let my pain and suffering help you not feel so all alone. My apologies for the lack of new groundbreaking technical info. It's not a complicated task to install ARP head studs, and that was my plot twist. There are a couple of hurdles you may encounter depending on the production year of your engine, but they're well illustrated in this video. I'm not sure if their installation warrants a video all unto itself, but if you feel it does, speak up because I have 3 more engines to build. I can still do it. I just wanted to demonstrate that progress is being made on this, and despite the long breaks between uploads, a LOT is going on behind the scenes. This was 20 hours of repetitive work and I hope it's at least mildly entertaining. For me, this was the most boring video I've ever edited here because I had to re-live the same steps so many times, over and over again. I could very easily have inserted an hour of it in the wrong place and nobody would ever have known because it all looks the same. The text overlays are there only so you can be aware of what's different. A voiceover would have been pointless because the techniques illustrated are discussed ad-nauseum in the Cylinder Head 205 and 206 videos. The valve cover gasket installation process was covered in "Valve Cover Modification and Polishing", and the discussion about compression ratios is explained in "Calculate Your Compression Ratio". If you like the job the parts washer did, check out my DIY parts washer video. ;) Cylinder Head 205 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wbWWCKPuZG4 Cylinder Head 206 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4s2X3VUwADA Valve Cover Modification and Polishing https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NiIi9EljLSk Calculate Your Compression Ratio https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bWze92nt9OU

Major Huge Announcement
This video is a quick update on the projects here on Jafromobile right now, as well as a tour and history lesson on my latest addition. I'm always hard at work to bring you all new material based on Mitsubishi production and partnerships from 1987-1999. Also covered are what's necessary to resurrect a car that's been sitting for many years. If it's got a 4g63, to me... it's always worth saving. My channel now has 4 Mitsubishi-powered projects in the works which should be capable of delivering tons of new material. I'd like to welcome all of you from the forums. My history with Mitsubishi began in 1997, and hasn't taken a day off since. Owning one of these has been long overdue for me, and you guys have been a wealth of knowledge that helped me along my travels. An asset to the DSM community, even though this isn't a DSM.