This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under 10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video) was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old stock DSM turbo parts including a worked 14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the internals have changed.
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
Audio track by RojoDelChocolate.
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up summer 2011 after over 150 drag
passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions,
3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use.
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
And all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint trying to get depressed cause I got all my spares out.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
The 7-bolt was FRESH with the shine like a mirror
If anything I can say this bling was rare
What I saw inside the engine stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Blueprint 108 - inspect the deck
There's a reason why there are no subtitled specifications in this video
for the block. It's because they don't exist in either service manual, 1g
or 2g. You're not supposed to remove material from a block on the deck
surface because it has ill effects on parts of the combustion chamber
geometry, and alters your compression ratio. It can be done intentionally
in some cases for a desired side-affect, but if you have to deck a 4g63
head, it would be advised to use a thicker head gasket. The Mitsubishi
Multi-Layered-Steel or MLS gasket is slightly thicker than the OEM
composite gasket. Also, HKS, Power Enterprise, Cometic, and other
performance brands all make MLS gaskets that are .065 and thicker.
THERE IS ONE ERROR IN THE VIDEO. I said a block with .002" warpage is
junk. I was completely and totally wrong. While I don't wish to spread
misinformation, I don't think it's a big enough error to warrant re-editing
this video. I just wasn't paying attention. .002" warpage on a cylinder
head is the service limit before it needs machining. I meant to say
.02"... or two HUNDREDTHS (not thousandths) of an inch.
...and here's my justification...
A warped block to me is junk either way even if its minimal because your
MLS gasket will never seal unless both the head and the block are perfectly
flat. Trust your machine shop to get the values for how much is taken off,
and buy the correct thickness gasket for your machine work.
A factory head gasket (composite) is .051"
The MLS Mitsubishi gasket is available in the stock .051 and a .062"
Cometic makes gaskets up to .072"
There are some brands that go as high as .127", but I'd have thrown both
the block and head away long before then.
1g AWD Rear Subframe Bushing Replacement
These are Boostx rear subframe
bushings for a 1g AWD. The factory rubber bushings can be affected by
heat, cold, oils, age, air, dry rotting... they were 22 years old, and
might not have been bad for a stock chassis... but this car isn't stock
anymore. We're attempting to replace them in this video in order to
stiffen the rear sub-frame and improve this car's launch characteristics.
If the bushings are weaker than the power you're putting down vs. the
weight you're moving, they can give, affecting toe, camber, caster and
generally reduce the traction and handling characteristics of the car.
Substituting Polyurethane bushings in place of the factory rubber bushings
is a great way to solve this problem.
Removing the factory bushings seems complicated if you've never done it.
What it really takes is just patience and fire (and a lot of it). During
this video you'll see us get impatient and grab an air chisel. That's the
wrong tool for the job. It makes for cool video footage, but it simply
can't do what fire does for this job. The torch you use makes a
difference. The nozzle on most propane torches is a little too small to do
this efficiently. The bigger nozzle the better. You'll see and hear us
cover this. You can burn these bushings out with a small fire, but you'll
make up for that with your time.
I've received lots of great comments whenever I break out the torch. Yes,
I'd love to have an Oxy-acetylene rosebud that can burn through plate
steel. Yes, I'd love to have had the foresight to buy a MAP cylinder
instead of propane. But the propane method for burning these out is really
ideal because it's less likely to melt the steel bushing surrounds. Less
of the rubber becomes airborne particulates with a colder flame. But yes,
it takes longer. I think we spent a half-hour to 45 minutes torching both
sets of bushings out.
Once the majority of the rubber is burnt away from the sleeve, use a
brass-bristled wire wheel to remove the rest. We didn't have a brass wheel
big enough for the K-member bushings, so we used a steel wheel. Just keep
in mind not to be too aggressive or use the wrong tools like carbide bits
or grinding stones for the excess because you want to leave as much metal
in there as you can. The bushings need to fit tight inside the sleeves
when you're done.
There are 6 washers used on the AWD subframe that have rubber castings on
them to fit inside the factory rubber bushings. With the poly bushings
there are no provisions for these washers the way they are. The rubber is
no longer necessary, so burning that off allows you to re-use the washers
rather than replace them. Be aware of which washers come from where. 2 of
them have dimples in them that recess into the rear "moustache bar,
boomerang bar, thing that holds the rear in". You want the big-side of
that bushing against the dimpled washer, and the ring side of the bushing
against the chassis where those parts meet. If you press the bushing in
backwards, there's nothing to hold that spacer ring supplied with those
bushings into the assembly. It will just fall off.
I can't wait to hear about how these things work out because my 2g has a
100% factory suspension including the struts that came with it 160,000
miles ago. I'd like to give it the same treatment that this car received.
Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking
about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in
the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He
literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just
Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm
likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater
challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all.
Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never
make good use of any larger of a turbo.
I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to
make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is.
This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful
with that downshift.
Wheels, Plastidip and Mickeys
What starts as an innocent venture into wheel painting ends in a sticky,
sticky episode of badassery.
Plastidip is spray-on rubber. This is the first time I've ever worked with
My review: It comes in colors but my favorite is black. It's good stuff.
What I did should have had me spraying it on last... because mounting tires
will remove it from a wheel. Most people doing this painted their wheels
while tires were mounted. This is what happens when you don't. So what?
It's spray-on rubber. Spray on some more and you're good.
If you want the BEST results with it (since it can be expensive in some
regions), allow no less than 10 minutes between coats, and spray LIGHT
COATS. That's capitalized because squeezing out a light coat of spray-on
rubber is much easier said than done. It's like lightly-spraying Silly
String, or setting your fire extinguisher to "low". Or trying to bathe in
a waterfall with good intentions, but getting knocked on your ass by the
force of falling water instead. I'm amazed at how easy a product like this
is to work with in concept. It sprays differently than paint, but its
application is easily mastered once you get the feel for it. I give it...
d (ツ) b
Install Clutch in a 1g Turbo DSM swapped Elantra
You guys asked for an update on a different project. I've been working on
the GSX since November and this is one I could squeeze out without getting
in the way of other projects.
TRADE YA needs a clutch. It needs some other things, too, but I'm starting
with the clutch. In this video I stay on point with the
used-or-junkyard-parts build theme. This car doesn't deserve new parts and
I've done all of this before, just never in one video. I need something to
run at the track while I'm waiting for parts, polishing and machining. I'm
closest to having that happening with the Elantra right now so let's get
this over with.
Consider this the cliff notes of the transmission series, and another step
towards making a free car built from used parts run 12's.
Driveshaft 102 - Remove Universal Joints
This is how I prefer to press out U-joints. I don't have a bearing press
yet, but you don't have to have one to do this. There are many ways to do
this job, and some work better than others. Each method comes with a
different set of advantages and disadvantages; however, I am from the
school that teaches not to beat on your driveshaft with a hammer.
I've seen so many people banging and pounding on their u-joints with a
hammer and to me it just doesn't make any sense. I really don't believe
that's the best way to do it. Maybe they like the sound of banging on
steel pipes? Maybe they hate their neighbors? Maybe they just can't shake
a certain ex girlfriend from their thoughts and it brings them some relief?
I say, why risk damaging the saddles and ruining the part? Why bang on a
brand new universal joint with 4 sets of needle bearings in it? To save
time? I refuse to beat on my driveshaft. So you're going to see a
different method than the mainstream. If you can press it out, why on
earth would you bang on it if you have other tools that can do a better
Since the 2-jaw puller is needed to do other parts of this job, might as
well put 'er to good use and get 'er done.
GSX Startup (Nov. '09)
I wanted to deliver a video without my normal beats and fast-forward edits.
I wanted to represent this moment for the subscribers, fans and friends
exactly the way it happened.
4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination
on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video
will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video
of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in
the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by
combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater
degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft
belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When
that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft,
wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it
can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over
10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and
heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have
balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at
home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy
punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not
enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil
filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's
regulated at 15 PSI.
Tom's Turbo Garage: Turbo Miata Differential Upgrade - Part One
In this episode, we begin work on our turbocharged 1992 Mazda Miata differential upgrade
by getting the parts we need and tearing all of the stock stuff out. Also,
Torch the giant Lego man makes his triumphant return by offering some of
his unique skills.
You can see a modification list, photos and complete build details at
For go fast parts, installation, design, fabrication and tuning, visit
http://www.jayracing.com I use their parts and so should you! Tell 'em
Tom sent ya!
Thanks for watching!
Timing belt replacement Hyundai Elantra 2000 2.0L Part 1. Remove Replace Install Water pump
http://autotechviewpoint.com/tipjar Timing belt replacement Hyundai
Elantra 2000 2.0L Part 1. Remove Replace Install. Water pump replacement.
Check out the timing belt kit here on Amazon, just copy and paste the link
below it will take right to the kit!
2000 Elantra 2.0 Liter 4 cylinder.
Amazon has anything and everything you need, you can get there here through
my affiliate link, just copy and paste to get to the automotive section:
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LOOK! The update is actually typed here in the description.
The gear-head in me never stops. I took a vacation. It still doesn't stop
when I do that, either. It's just who I am. I owe you all an update.
This has been the longest break in uploading I've ever taken. I've never
posted anything personal like this before. I probably won't leave this up
for long, but several of you have sent me messages checking on me to make
sure I'm okay... and this is the easiest way to reach you all at once.
The GSX build has to take a very temporary back seat. Call it a Rebecca
Black... whatever you want... it's generating a stockpile I can't work
around and front-seat passengers must take first-priority. My shelves are
full of disassembled cars and it's become one of them. The main problem is
that the middle of the garage... where the car should be... It's filled up
with a yellow thing. A yellow thing that I love and want to finish. I hit
a roadblock, but I bought the thing that lets me cut the thing out of the
other thing so I can weld it in that thing. I've got it all figured out
now... I had to take a break to figure it out.
I went to California for a week.
The Galant: This thing so far has cost me a lot of money since the last
video, and those efforts have yet to fix the problem. I love the Galant,
and it's getting a lot of my resources lately... but its problems take time
and space to resolve. It's parts are practically as big as the car. I
have nowhere to put them.
The GSX: see... here I go again, I just can't stop thinking about it. I
need a CLEAN garage to build the motor.
The Hyundai: We learned that putting drag radials on a 102 mph Hyundai
still nets you a 102 mph because it needs a clutch for all that extra
traction. I need a garage to install a clutch.
That's the update on my projects. I'm still working very hard on them to
get all of them done, but I just have to finish what started on the Colt
first... even though it takes time.
What will follow immediately since I know other car people might enjoy the
car things I saw on vacation... I look to these events for inspiration and
they really get my creative chemistry flowing. I don't care how old
something is, it just has more character. I don't care what brand it is,
they all have their merits. Everything mechanical tells a story. The
history of previous attempts to re-engineer the automobile are why we drive
DSMs today. We're always re-engineering these things ourselves. It's
important to see how other people do things, or else there's no way to
learn from someone else's failures... and there's no way to measure your
own success... see how to set your goals...
Thank you for watching my videos, and I hope you can excuse me posting
these events the way they occurred. They're all in vivid 1080HD as I was
testing a Sony HXR-NX70U with a Merlin2 steadicam. I think many of you
would be interested in seeing this material. DSM content is forthcoming,
and will be uploaded very soon.
2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission
failure. This time I installed some new goodies...
Tubular Exhaust Header
Magnus Intake Manifold
Magnus heat barrier gasket
Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body
Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal
-6AN turbo coolant lines
ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners
new timing belt
new accessory belts
ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts
FIC -8AN fuel rail
deleted breather port
added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover
polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal
JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate
new Chrysler coils
Trans & Clutch 8 - Adjust the Clutch
This video assumes you have already bled the clutch. If you haven't, stop.
You have to have every bit of air out of the clutch hydraulics before
beginning these procedures.
Clutch adjustment is key on 4g63 cars. Preloading the clutch can lead to
catastrophic engine main thrust bearing failure. The clutch hydraulics
need to have enough fluid volume flowing through them to fully-actuate the
slave, but enough pedal travel to allow it to flow back to the reservoir
This video covers the basics of how to do this. Also included are part
numbers for 1g and 2g clutch pedal and linkage assemblies and a brief
documentary of one of my previous failures.
For the most comprehensive information about how all of the clutch
hydraulic components work together, what happens when you get it wrong,
what the accepted procedure is to adjust your clutch if you need to
visualize it in a list... turn to the community! Dang you guys are the
best! Below are some great resources you can use to help with your
Recess begins now!
Jackstransmissions also has a clutch video uploaded here on YouTube.