Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just for me. Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all. Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never make good use of any larger of a turbo. I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is. This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful with that downshift.
Hyundai 11 - 1st Startup & Heat Cycle
Thank you for clicking "The Link" in the end of the previous video. On a 1st startup, there are lots of things to pay attention to. It's hard to know which one to look at first, but a good rule of thumb is to start with oil pressure and go from there. If you don't achieve a healthy oil pressure level immediately at startup, shut it down. Failure to pressurize the oil system will quickly kill all of your hard work within seconds as there are no break in lubricants available that will save you from a lack of oil pressure. The reason for this is that your rotating parts float on a cushion of oil. All your main and rod bearings do is regulate the thickness of that oil film layer. If the oil supply runs out, metal-on-metal contact begins and that continues to damage those parts until they receive oil pressure. Everything that needed to be said about the oil pump preparations was in the video. Every car with hydraulic lifters makes lots of noise on their first startup. It's just what they do. If you use a low-temperature grease to prepare your oil pump assembly, then the noise will subside faster. If you use multi-purpose brake grease like I did, then it will take until the engine is at full operating temperature and your radiator fans cut on before it melts, passes through the lifters, and stops blocking oil flow to the valve train. The lifters aren't the only source of oil for the camshafts, and a 4g63 utilizes roller rockers, so during the noisy portion of the break-in, no damage is being caused by this noise. It's just important to try to listen through it and see if there are any other kinds of knocks, squeals or bangs that are out of place. You'll see me do that quite obviously in the video. Don't try to tune or adjust things on a cold engine. Your efforts are useless until its up to its normal operating temperature because there are engine components and ECU routines that change dependent upon the engine temperature. After the engine has warmed up, set your base timing, adjust the idle speed, and then go after other factors that may affect the idle performance. You don't tune your fuel trims, ignition timing or anything else until you achieve a steady, stable, closed loop idle. Lastly, don't drive the car until it's at least idling properly. I will do 2 more heat cycles addressing bugs and tuning issues, and after the 3rd heat cycle I drive 'er around, adjust the clutch, re-torque the axle nuts and then change the oil. Thank you for following this car's build. I can't say that enough. You guys, not me, you guys make all of this possible.
New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to stick before encountering this. More on this build... The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video. I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides. Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore 6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my 150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful. Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough. In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.
How To Turbo Your Car [In 5 Minutes]
In this video, the boys from Mighty Car Mods show you in 5 minutes whats involved in turbo charging your car. For more information about each stage of the process, check out these links: Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUKgKt... Part 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xt0M-B... Part 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8ZDL5... Keep up to date with all things MCM on Facebook here: http://www.facebook.com/mightycarmods Music is "Collide" featuring Erin Renee by Moog [WHITECITYLIGHT REMIX] http://www.mightycarmods.com/collecti... iTunes Version here: https://itunes.apple.com/au/album/col... Also something to note around Mighty Car Mods: we are normal guys and are not trained mechanics. We like to make interesting car mods and show you how we've gone about it, but we can't promise that anything we show you will work for your particular car, or that you won't harm yourself, someone else, your car or your warranty doing it. Please be safe, be responsible and unless you know what you're doing, do not fool around with very serious machinery just because you've seen us make it look so easy. Talk to a qualified mechanic if you are in any doubt.