Jamie's Boosted Hyundai Elantra (Oct '11)

This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under 10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video. There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video) was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build a whole car. In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old stock DSM turbo parts including a worked 14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the internals have changed.

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New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to stick before encountering this. More on this build... The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video. I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides. Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore 6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my 150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful. Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough. In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.

Hyundai 11 - 1st Startup & Heat Cycle
Thank you for clicking "The Link" in the end of the previous video. On a 1st startup, there are lots of things to pay attention to. It's hard to know which one to look at first, but a good rule of thumb is to start with oil pressure and go from there. If you don't achieve a healthy oil pressure level immediately at startup, shut it down. Failure to pressurize the oil system will quickly kill all of your hard work within seconds as there are no break in lubricants available that will save you from a lack of oil pressure. The reason for this is that your rotating parts float on a cushion of oil. All your main and rod bearings do is regulate the thickness of that oil film layer. If the oil supply runs out, metal-on-metal contact begins and that continues to damage those parts until they receive oil pressure. Everything that needed to be said about the oil pump preparations was in the video. Every car with hydraulic lifters makes lots of noise on their first startup. It's just what they do. If you use a low-temperature grease to prepare your oil pump assembly, then the noise will subside faster. If you use multi-purpose brake grease like I did, then it will take until the engine is at full operating temperature and your radiator fans cut on before it melts, passes through the lifters, and stops blocking oil flow to the valve train. The lifters aren't the only source of oil for the camshafts, and a 4g63 utilizes roller rockers, so during the noisy portion of the break-in, no damage is being caused by this noise. It's just important to try to listen through it and see if there are any other kinds of knocks, squeals or bangs that are out of place. You'll see me do that quite obviously in the video. Don't try to tune or adjust things on a cold engine. Your efforts are useless until its up to its normal operating temperature because there are engine components and ECU routines that change dependent upon the engine temperature. After the engine has warmed up, set your base timing, adjust the idle speed, and then go after other factors that may affect the idle performance. You don't tune your fuel trims, ignition timing or anything else until you achieve a steady, stable, closed loop idle. Lastly, don't drive the car until it's at least idling properly. I will do 2 more heat cycles addressing bugs and tuning issues, and after the 3rd heat cycle I drive 'er around, adjust the clutch, re-torque the axle nuts and then change the oil. Thank you for following this car's build. I can't say that enough. You guys, not me, you guys make all of this possible.

Daewoo Nexia Turbo, Hyundai Elantra Turbo, Dodge Neon Turbo
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Hyundai 16 - Hyundai Wiring Bullshit
These fixes cost me nothing but time. I bought that solenoid a year ago, and the harness connectors were free off of an old Foofy engine. While those things sound like positives, I'm pretty tired of having to hunt through this car to pinpoint and snipe these kinds of bugs. You guys seem to like it, though? Most people won't have this exact problem with their cars, but hopefully you learned something from my troubleshooting methods along the way? Maybe you already know how to do this or maybe you know a better method? F-150 fuel pump issue: http://www.f150forum.com/f38/2013-no-crank-no-start-320247/ Piss excellence: http://www.hulu.com/watch/4850 Electrical Advice: 1. If you're going to install a used wiring harness in a different car, it's a great idea to sit down and probe the harness out for resistance and continuity. Probe your harness out if you want to know for sure what you're working with. 2. The copper crimp bands that the factory splices wires together with will probably work out just fine in a factory installation where the wiring harness fits the car properly and rarely if ever is moved or disconnected. If you're swapping a harness to another car, it's a good idea to solder those crimped connections. Over time both the wiring and the insulation become stiff and brittle. Changing its orientation for a different car only complicates this. 3. If you tape wires tightly together inside a wiring loom, it should only be done if it's serving as an electrical insulator, otherwise; go easy on the tape. Try to keep the tape on the outside of the loom. 4. When testing continuity, always disconnect power, the ECU, and all sensors on a circuit unless you're trying to test the resistance of those components along with your circuit. If you're doing that, ask yourself why? It makes more sense to measure them separately, but some people cut corners. Those people occasionally mis-diagnose the problem and unnecessarily replace an expensive and functional sensor, injector, or solenoid when the fix could have been free all along. 5. A datalogger and a multimeter can help you come to the exact same conclusion, it just takes a wiring diagram to guide you, and the patience to figure out the circuits. If you don't know how to read an electrical diagram, start on page one of the electrical chapter, it explains what all the symbols, numbers, wire colors, harness connector locations and pin configurations look like, and each manufacturer will do it a little differently. The electrical manual is written for mechanics, not engineers. It holds all the keys to unlock itself. 6. The split half troubleshooting theory applies to every complicated thing you'll ever work on. If you don't know what's broken, perform tests that eliminate half your variables each time. With a computer for instance, the first test you would perform for an unknown problem would rule out hardware versus software so that you don't waste time performing unnecessary tests on unrelated components. Keep performing tests that rule out half of the remaining components. The focus narrows. 7. When you're measuring resistance, touch your probes together to test your meter. Subtract that value from your readings when you probe your tested circuit to determine its actual resistance. Most meters don't read 0 ohms when you contact the probes. That resistance when you touch the probes together is not part of your circuit. It's widely-accepted that perfect circuit is .2 ohms. There are times when that will be different because some circuits contains resistors, and some are made from semi or super-conducting materials… but the electrical diagram for that circuit will always note these differences. Pay attention to these because in cases where it's different, if you don't follow those guidelines with your repair, it can fry components. 8. Butane soldering iron. Cars are rarely on your workbench or next to an electrical outlet. Why tether yourself to a 6-foot cord? Why use two electric tools to solder and shrink tubing? Why use an electric tool and your butane lighter? Why not use one butane soldering iron that you can use anywhere to do both jobs? 9. Don't just stretch your harness through the engine bay. Secure it to something. If the plastic clips broke, use zip ties. Think about sharp edges, temperatures and fluids so that you don't short-circuit, melt, freeze, burn, or dissolve your insulation in hydraulic fluid wherever you tie it down. EMI is also a noteworthy problem you can cause, and you'll know you did it wrong if you can hear your ignition whining in your stereo. 10. If it's less than 1 Ω, resistance is futile.