This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under 10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video) was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old stock DSM turbo parts including a worked 14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the internals have changed.
CRANKWALKED? 7-bolt teardown 1080HD
One for the weekend warriors... Audio track by RojoDelChocolate. And that really is Mr. Chocolate himself playing some jungle-action on his drum kit to a bunch of garage band loops. Give the man some props!
Here's the 48,000 mile-old 7-bolt I blew up this summer after over 150 drag passes, a half dozen Dyno sessions, 4 transmissions, 3 clutches and 10 years of hard all-weather use. The cleanliness of the crankcase and overall lack of carbon buildup is a testament to the quality of Mobil1 Synthetic oil.
Now this is a story all about how
My bearings got flipped-turned upside down
And I'd like to take a minute just sit right there
And tell you how I used to mix and burn my gas and my air.
In RVA suburbs born and raised
On the dragstrip is where I spent most of my days
Chillin out, maxin, relaxing all cool,
And all shooting some BS outside with my tools
When a couple of guys who were up to no good
Started running races in my neighborhood
I heard one little knock and my rods got scared
And said "You put it in the garage until you figure out where..."
I Begged and pleaded that it not be that way,
But it didn't want to start and run another day.
I kissed it goodbye, because the motor punched its ticket
I got out my camera, said "I might as well kick it."
Crankwalk yo this is bad
Drinking metal shavings from an oil pan.
Is this what the rumor of crankwalk is like?
Hmm this won't be alright
But wait I heard knocking, grinding and all that
Is this the type of failure that should happen to this cool cat?
I don't think so, I'll see when I get there
I hope they're prepared for this video I share.
Well I pulled all the bolts and when I came out
There were chunks in my fluids in the pan and they drained out
I aint trying to get depressed cause I got all my spares out.
I sprang into action like lightning disassembled
I whistled while I worked and my hands never trembled
The 7-bolt was FRESH with the shine like a mirror
If anything I can say this bling was rare
What I saw inside the engine stained my underwear.
I turned off the air compressor 'bout 7 or 8
And I yelled to crankcase "Yo holmes, smell ya later"
I looked at my internals they were finally there
To sit on my workbench and stink up the air.
Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just for me.
Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all. Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never make good use of any larger of a turbo. I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is. This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful with that downshift.
4G63 Hyundai Excel Dedication
This a dedication to my old 93 Hyundai Excel with a 4g63t swap out of a eclipse 2.0 turbo. I sold the car to later find out that was a big mistake. Don't know where it is now so I assume that someone took the "good" parts out of the car and scrap the shell. This was the best car I ever had together and I just wanted to make this video in the memory of this car. I know it was just a car but it meant more to me than that, I'm sure some car guy junkies feel the same way about their old cars that regret getting rid of or selling.
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mitsubishi_Sirius_engine
There's also this at EvolutionM:
http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/278462-official-hyundai-2-4l-g4js-4g64-thread.html
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches. Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either. There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into. Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either one of those requires skill.
electric turbo ebay
2000 Hyundai elantra 2.0 electric turbo
had button under throttle, now placed in a switch to activate manually at will.
This video of visible difference.
1g AWD Rear Subframe Bushing Replacement
These are Boostx rear subframe bushings for a 1g AWD. The factory rubber bushings can be affected by heat, cold, oils, age, air, dry rotting... they were 22 years old, and might not have been bad for a stock chassis... but this car isn't stock anymore. We're attempting to replace them in this video in order to stiffen the rear sub-frame and improve this car's launch characteristics. If the bushings are weaker than the power you're putting down vs. the weight you're moving, they can give, affecting toe, camber, caster and generally reduce the traction and handling characteristics of the car. Substituting Polyurethane bushings in place of the factory rubber bushings is a great way to solve this problem.
Removing the factory bushings seems complicated if you've never done it. What it really takes is just patience and fire (and a lot of it). During this video you'll see us get impatient and grab an air chisel. That's the wrong tool for the job. It makes for cool video footage, but it simply can't do what fire does for this job. The torch you use makes a difference. The nozzle on most propane torches is a little too small to do this efficiently. The bigger nozzle the better. You'll see and hear us cover this. You can burn these bushings out with a small fire, but you'll make up for that with your time.
I've received lots of great comments whenever I break out the torch. Yes, I'd love to have an Oxy-acetylene rosebud that can burn through plate steel. Yes, I'd love to have had the foresight to buy a MAP cylinder instead of propane. But the propane method for burning these out is really ideal because it's less likely to melt the steel bushing surrounds. Less of the rubber becomes airborne particulates with a colder flame. But yes, it takes longer. I think we spent a half-hour to 45 minutes torching both sets of bushings out.
Once the majority of the rubber is burnt away from the sleeve, use a brass-bristled wire wheel to remove the rest. We didn't have a brass wheel big enough for the K-member bushings, so we used a steel wheel. Just keep in mind not to be too aggressive or use the wrong tools like carbide bits or grinding stones for the excess because you want to leave as much metal in there as you can. The bushings need to fit tight inside the sleeves when you're done.
There are 6 washers used on the AWD subframe that have rubber castings on them to fit inside the factory rubber bushings. With the poly bushings there are no provisions for these washers the way they are. The rubber is no longer necessary, so burning that off allows you to re-use the washers rather than replace them. Be aware of which washers come from where. 2 of them have dimples in them that recess into the rear "moustache bar, boomerang bar, thing that holds the rear in". You want the big-side of that bushing against the dimpled washer, and the ring side of the bushing against the chassis where those parts meet. If you press the bushing in backwards, there's nothing to hold that spacer ring supplied with those bushings into the assembly. It will just fall off.
I can't wait to hear about how these things work out because my 2g has a 100% factory suspension including the struts that came with it 160,000 miles ago. I'd like to give it the same treatment that this car received.
CAN YOUR JEEP DO THIS??
JEEP JASON SHOWS OFF HIS SUSPENSION FLEX. CAN YOUR LEAF SPRUNG JEEP DO THIS???? NO, I AM NOT TALKING ABOUT YOUR COIL SPRUNG GROCERY GETTER THAT ONLY SEES RTI RAMPS AT THE LOCAL 4X4 SHOWS. I AM TALKING ABOUT A LEAF SPRUNG CJ CRAWL UP A RUTTED SLIPPERY THAN HELL TRAIL? REMEMBER TALK IS CHEAP... PROOF IS IN THE VIDEO!
Hyundai Excel Turbo 2
My Hyundai Excel Fun Project with some light upgrades.
actually i working on a Digital Instrument Cluster..
Blueprint 108 - inspect the deck
There's a reason why there are no subtitled specifications in this video for the block. It's because they don't exist in either service manual, 1g or 2g. You're not supposed to remove material from a block on the deck surface because it has ill effects on parts of the combustion chamber geometry, and alters your compression ratio. It can be done intentionally in some cases for a desired side-affect, but if you have to deck a 4g63 head, it would be advised to use a thicker head gasket. The Mitsubishi Multi-Layered-Steel or MLS gasket is slightly thicker than the OEM composite gasket. Also, HKS, Power Enterprise, Cometic, and other performance brands all make MLS gaskets that are .065 and thicker.
THERE IS ONE ERROR IN THE VIDEO. I said a block with .002" warpage is junk. I was completely and totally wrong. While I don't wish to spread misinformation, I don't think it's a big enough error to warrant re-editing this video. I just wasn't paying attention. .002" warpage on a cylinder head is the service limit before it needs machining. I meant to say .02"... or two HUNDREDTHS (not thousandths) of an inch.
...and here's my justification...
A warped block to me is junk either way even if its minimal because your MLS gasket will never seal unless both the head and the block are perfectly flat. Trust your machine shop to get the values for how much is taken off, and buy the correct thickness gasket for your machine work.
A factory head gasket (composite) is .051"
The MLS Mitsubishi gasket is available in the stock .051 and a .062"
Cometic makes gaskets up to .072"
There are some brands that go as high as .127", but I'd have thrown both the block and head away long before then.
Wheels, Plastidip and Mickeys
What starts as an innocent venture into wheel painting ends in a sticky, sticky episode of badassery.
Plastidip is spray-on rubber. This is the first time I've ever worked with it.
My review: It comes in colors but my favorite is black. It's good stuff. What I did should have had me spraying it on last... because mounting tires will remove it from a wheel. Most people doing this painted their wheels while tires were mounted. This is what happens when you don't. So what? It's spray-on rubber. Spray on some more and you're good.
If you want the BEST results with it (since it can be expensive in some regions), allow no less than 10 minutes between coats, and spray LIGHT COATS. That's capitalized because squeezing out a light coat of spray-on rubber is much easier said than done. It's like lightly-spraying Silly String, or setting your fire extinguisher to "low". Or trying to bathe in a waterfall with good intentions, but getting knocked on your ass by the force of falling water instead. I'm amazed at how easy a product like this is to work with in concept. It sprays differently than paint, but its application is easily mastered once you get the feel for it. I give it... d (ツ) b
