How To Swap Pistons on Connecting Rod at Home - 4.8 Flat Tops into a 5.3 LS1
In this video I am pulling one piston out at at time from a 160k mile 5.3.
This 5.3 will be going into my 1987 C10. I then show the removal of the
dished 5.3 piston from the connecting rod and then the mount of used 4.8
flat top pistons back onto the connecting rod. Then the 4.8 piston and rod
are inserted back into the block. This is all happening at home in my
garage with basic tools. I do use a press to remove the 5.3 piston but you
could easily use the propane torch for the removal by reversing the
mounting procedure that I show with the torch.
By installing flat top 4.8 pistons into a 5.3 the compression will change
from 9.5:1 to 10.6:1.
I just started this engine up last week. I did a compression test, it came
back good. I've got a video of it running on the stand here:
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A Better Way to Install Rods on Pistons
Installing spiral locks into a performance piston is a pain. I've found a
tool that can make your life a lot easier when it comes to building
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Installing Piston Rings The Easy Way "NO TOOLS"!
In this video I show and explain the easiest way to install your piston
rings with out breaking them.
I if you need to Clock your Rings, I made a video for that also..If your
looking for the diagram for the ring clocking specs you can find it on my
web site www.Nthefastlane.com Click the "Filling Cabinet Tab"
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How To: Pressing Press-Fit Wrist Pins At Home
This video describes an easy method of pressing wrist pins into pistons.
This method is better than using a hydraulic press because it doesn't put
stress on any of the components.
Of course, luck would have it that the pin I was pressing for this
demonstration stopped short because I didn't have everything lined up
perfectly, so it snagged and the rod cooled before I got it the whole way
through (like I said, you have to work QUICKLY! :) No big deal though.
The particular piston/rod set I was working on at the time was a set of Evo
9 pistons and 1G 4G63 DSM rods to be put into the block that is seen behind
How To Clean The Carbon From Top Of Pistons | Using Only Household Products
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After pulling the GT40 heads from the 5.0 roller motor I discovered that
the tops of the pistons were coated in a thick layer of black carbon
buildup. The cylinder walls (bores) were in great shape with no gouges or
burrs. This left me with 2 options. Option 1 was to disassemble the entire
short block and replace the pistons and parts that were essential after
short block disassembly. Or Option 2 was to try and clean these up and
freshen up the cylinder walls. I chose option 2.
I started by spraying the piston tops with the bathroom cleaner and I let
it soak in for about 10 minutes. Next, I took an SOS or Brillo pad and
soaked it in rubbing alcohol. I started to scrub and scrub until the carbon
began to come off in places. This is a vigorous process that does require
some old fashioned elbow grease but in the end the results are well worth
it. Once all of the carbon was relatively gone off of the flat areas of the
piston I broke out the air grinder with a brass brush for the valve reliefs
The air tools are not essential if you want to take a little extra time
with a brass bristled hand brush. Whatever you do, only use brass! After
all of the carbon was clear I used the steel wool wet with alcohol and
wiped down the cylinder bores and made them shine like new again. I gave
the pistons a final rinse with alcohol and then vigorously oiled the
pistons and the cylinder walls to ensure no surface rust would appear. I
also sprayed them down with Ballistol (gun cleaner all natural)
Anyone can do this with a little time and patients. Just take your time and
you'll love the results!
How to: Assemble Pistons with Rods
In this quick video I show you how to put together your piston and rod
assembly and get it ready for installation onto the crankshaft.
Here are the current specs for my KA build for those who are interested:
- .020" overbore
- Wiseco .020" over forged pistons
- Eagle H-beam rods
- Stock Crank
- No line boring or honing
- Clevite Main Bearings (In my other video, I showed you how to choose the
proper bearings for your KA. I'm going with the Clevite "standard" bearings
really for experimentation purposes, to see how they hold up.)
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