1991 Eagle Talon
1991 EAGLE TALON TSI AWD
GARRET G35 BALL BEARING turbo RATED @ 650HP
38 MM turbo SMART WASTE GATE...
GREDDY BLOW OFF VALVE
CUSTOM MADE 2 1/2 INCH Intercooler PIPING
LARGE FROM MOUNT Intercooler
T turbo MANIFOLD
3 INCH Exhaustturbo BACK
2 BOSCH FUEL PUMPS ONE IN THE TANK AND ONE ON THE LINE
BRAIDED FUEL LINE FROM TANK TO FUEL RAIL AND BACK
FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR
ARIAS FORGED PISTONS RATED @ 800 HORSE POWER
COMETIC HEAD GASGET
ARP HEAD STUDS
PORT AND POLISHED HEAD
EUROTHEYNE ENGINE MOUNTS AND SUSPENSION BUSHINGS
ACT CLUCTCH WITH 26LBS
KYB ADJUSTABLE STRUTS
1.75 INCH DROP LOWERING SPRINGS
FRONT UPPER STRUT BAR
CUSTOM VALVE COVER
SUPER AFC APEXI NEO
UPGRADED FRONT BRAKES WITH 2 PISTON CALIPERS
REAR END FROM A 92 TALON, LIGHTS AND BUMPER
CURRENTLY RUNNING @ 26 POUNDS OF Boost ESTIMATED @ 400HP
MOMO RACING SEATS
MOMO STEARING WHEEL AND HUB
NEW ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY
CAR ALSO COMES WITH EXTRA TRANSMISSION, TRANSFERCASE AND STOCK RIMS.
CONTACT TOM 416-856-5018
Trans & Clutch 1 - Remove Transmission
This is the first in a multi-video series regarding clutch tech. The clutch itself is a simple mechanism, but it's buried deep in the engine, so you can't just cover the clutch. First, you have to cover how to remove the transmission to get to it.
This project started off strange, got kind-of not-good, and then took a turn for the worst. The typical clutch job is not as difficult as the next video will display, but it's good this happened to me because I film this kind of crap. If for some asinine reason you encounter the kind of failure I experienced, you'll know what to do after the next video. Clutch assembly will be covered in a third video.
About the car:
You saw the other assembly video. You know when I put this thing together. You know it doesn't come out to play when it's cloudy. I've had it on the road less than an earl change. Freshly rebuilt TRE Stage 2.5 trans with a brand new ACT 2600 and a sprung 6-puck (MB1-XTG6) on a stock flywheel. This is Transmission #4.
16g turbo Eagle Talon Rear wheel drive runs 10's, drag race Kevin Jewer 10.9
New England Dragway September 9, 2011.
Kevin got bored with the big turbo and decided to see what would happen swapping out his compound setup for a puny big 16g.
Car normally runs 8's with other setup: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF27gn0JDp8
Final pass between him and Nick Stack, Nick got into the low 10's that night: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xmeb1R0e4P0
New England DSM.
Valve Cover Modification and Polishing
Crankcase ventilation in a nutshell:
High cylinder pressures are achieved both on the compression and combustion strokes. As gasses are compressed and exploded, the rings do the best they can with extremely close tolerances (and oil) to hold all that pressure in... but some still makes it past the rings. That's called blow-by. Blow-by is why all combustion engines are inefficient by design, and why they have crankcase breather systems.
Blow-by contains air, water (humidity), fuel, carbon and nitrogen. You don't really want all that stuff in your oil, as they all contribute to oil viscosity breakdown. A breather system works to extract those gasses from the crankcase so they don't condensate into the oil. It does this by connecting the car's air intake system to the crankcase so that blow-by can be re-burnt and transformed into oxides that the catalytic converter can easily break down.
As an engine gets worn, the physical capability of the rings to hold that pressure in is reduced. This results in more blow-by and higher crankcase pressure. High crankcase pressure is bad because it prevents the rings from sealing properly, and can also blow oil seals like valve cover gaskets, front case and rear main seals, etc... as that air tries to escape. This is a fire hazard. Oil burns and it's hard to put out. One of the most common tell-tale signs of high crankcase pressure on a DSM is having to zip-tie your dipstick down. If it's getting blown out, then there's excess pressure pushing it out because it has nowhere to go. Also, on an engine that's holding higher crankcase pressure, that pressure works against your oil pressure, and reduces oil flow to all points in the oil system.
The factory DSM crankcase has 2 ventilation systems. Two. One is a PCV system (Positive Crankcase Ventilation), and the other one is just a simple breather. The PCV system is connected to the intake manifold, and the breather is connected to the air intake in front of the turbo (or anywhere on the intake in front of the throttle plate on non-turbo cars). The PCV valve is designed to CLOSE OFF the port between the crankcase and the intake manifold when the engine is under load (Boost). When higher pressure is in the intake than the crankcase, a valve snaps shut preventing you from Boosting your crankcase. When you are at idle/cruise (vacuum), it pops open letting those gasses get vacuumed out of the crankcase. Vacuum.
The breather always vents back into the intake pre-turbo or pre-throttle plate. That airway is always open. Neither port on either the PCV or the breather are bigger than 1/4", so as much air as you can fit through a single 1/4" hole when you're under Boost... that's all the blow-by it can extract from the crankcase. That might be fine for an 11 PSI factory car, but when some tweaker wants to flow 30, 40, 50+ pounds of Boost, this is a system which is frequently overlooked and in desperate need of attention. You might as well look at your Boost controller as a blow-by increaser if that makes any sense.
You gotta get those gasses out of the crankcase. Crankcase pressure is bad. I'm not going to cover vacuum pumps, venturis or other methods of creating vacuum pressure in the crank case because these advanced techniques are for racing applications with dry-sump oil systems which DSMs do not have from the factory, and few people need.
Aside from the rings, only worn valve seals can contribute to high crankcase pressure, and that usually causes increased oil consumption that's visible (oil smoke) on cold starts and as the car rolls into high Boost after long periods of vacuum. Some people have tools that can allow them to change the valve seals without removing the cylinder head (if the rings are known to be good), but that's far more time consuming and less complete of a fix than removing and rebuilding the cylinder head. If the rings and cylinder bores are in bad shape, then it's a waste of money. Someone who's performed compression and leak-down tests has determined which parts are bad already.
As far as the rest goes, I bypassed my PCV system entirely. There is no vacuum scavenging of gasses from the crankcase on my car. It eliminates the chance of a PCV valve failing and Boosting my crankcase, and since I have a catch can, excessive blow-by is still being captured through condensation. I installed two 3/8" breather ports which flows more than 8 times the air that the original ones could flow. That should prevent pressure from ever building up. The -8AN fittings are compression fittings that don't require gaskets and are extremely easy to work with. They create an airtight seal to my Greddy catch can which I had modified to accept 2 extra fittings. One is plugged. The other has a 5/8" line to the turbine intake to extract gasses back to the engine like it was originally designed to do.
Tom's Turbo Garage: Eagle Talon AWD Turbo Upgrade - Part Two
In this episode, we finish the T3 based PTE 6266 turbo upgrade on my DSM. After getting all of the parts bolted in, we go for a road test to get the initial ECMLink tune nailed down.
You can see a complete modification list and many more photos and details at http://talon.turbomirage.com
For more details on my DIY water alcohol injection setup, please visit http://www.turbomirage.com/water
Thanks for watching!
91 Eagle Talon TSi AWD for sale
I have a 91 Talon awd 5 speed for sale. It is completely stock. Nothing has ever been touched, tampered or removed. It has exactly 51,103 miles. I am the second owner of this gem. It has grey leather interior , with the 'panda' paint sceme. This IS the probably on off the nicest talons left... Gaurentee.
1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD project; from Beginning to current. (Not completed).
In this video I take you on a little journy though the past 5-8 months and the work completed on my Talon. It is nowhere near done quite yet, well...for body it is. There are still many aspects I am planning on hitting, such as the engine..
I will be building a 2.3L stroker with a Holset HX35 turbocharger and the works.. But in time it will happen, certainly not right away. I have yet to apply for a job, but I am working on it. Thanks for watching.