Mazda MX6 - How to Upgrade Your Struts & Springs
Upgrading ND28's GoldMember MX-6 using Tokico Blues (HB/HP Series) with
Megan Racing (lowering) springs. The setup will cost about $400-$500
(depending on vendors) and can be completed in a weekend.
The end result is a medium spring rate which is still comfortable yet
provides less body roll in the corners and makes spirited driving much more
enjoyable. In my opinion this kit is a very nice upgrade for those who
want a great balance of performance and comfort.
Tokico TOHB3081 - Front Right
Tokico TOHB3082 - Front Left
Tokico TOHB3083 - Rears
Megan Racing springs - MX6 Kit #MR-LS-FP93L4
ND28's Build Topic on Mazda626.net:
Mazda 626 GE FS w OPT
Prezentacja mojego auta w 6 odcinku 9 serii OPT. Zapraszam do oglądania i
- What year is this car ?
- What made you modify this car ?
+ Actually, I don't know ... I have this car in my familly for 10 years,
even my grandma drove it (joke of course)
- She really drove this car ?
+ Yes she did
- What kind of engine was here originally ?
- And she was getting it's top speed ?
+ Of course ...
- Don't tell me that she had it on those orange wheels ...
+ No, no, no ... she had just cheap plastic covers on stock 14" rims
- Ok, but those rims aren't really from Mazda, right ?
+ That's right - it's from EVO IX
- And it fits without any modifications ?
+ Yes, bolt pattern, offset, everything was perfect for 626
- Hmmm ... but Mazda also had some nice wheels
+ True, but if you want to earn nice fitment you have to buy spacers,
because of too hight offset
- Engine is changed or just modified ?
+ It's changed, and than modified
- New engine is from 626 too ?
+ Yes, 1.8 had 100HP, 2.0 had 115HP
- And now it has ?
- How did you earn this extra power ?
+ Higher compression pistons, cams, Exhaust, intake etc
- Where did you get all those parts for this car, you know - it's not as
populat as BMW, or Honda for example ...
+ I know, it was hard. But I imported some of them from US, thaere is also
a company in Canada (Corksport) that have some parts from j-spec version of
this engine (FS-ZE)
- When did you start modifying your car ?
+ Something like 4 years ago I guess ...
- And you start really seriously, right ?
+ Not exactly, you know how it looks when you begin - some shity parts,
that don't work like they should, cheap plastic shift knobs etc ..
- Hahaha ... yeah, I now - I did the same when I had my firs car
- Audio system is good, right ?
+ Yeah, now it's pretty good, you can check how it bounce if you want ...
- Ok, let's hear it ...
+ (audio presentation)
- Shit ... I like this guy ... he got me.
- I have to ask you one more thing (showing the tow hook) ... What the fu*
is this ?
+ Hahaha ... when you make your car in JDM style, you need to have it. It
also helps a lot when parking ... if you know what I mean ...
- Ok, I thought it's for some kind of assembly for a parachute to stop this
+ No, it don't accelerate good enought to need this
- Are you going to do something else with your car, or maybe you wanna sell
+ Actually I was thinking 'bout selling it
- How much ?
+ Let's say 12 000zł (~4000$)
- Ok, looks like it's worth it ... let me look under the bonnet
+ Let's go than ...
- Uuu ... now I see whats what ... can you start and rev it ?
+ Of course ... (engine rev)
- Great car man
Mazda 626 - IAC Cleaning Part 1 of 3
Visit Mazda626.net for more information, images of plunger assembly, and
discussions about this video.
FIRST THING TO DO: REMOVE THE THROTTLE BODY. The IAC will come out with
it. It's much easier to work on outside of the car instead of sweating
your ass off in the middle of summer! I actually spent about 6-8 hours
trying to remove 1 stripped screw. This car is 16 years old now so cutting
off bolts and screws comes with the territory. Wish I knew the other half
of the screws were not threaded before I started to dissemble it. It is
not possible clean the IAC in place you must remove it. I also recommend
removing the throttle body FIRST! Like always, I learned that the hard
Mazda 626 IAC / Mazda MX-6 IAC / Ford Probe IAC
My new car: 1994 Mazda MX6 LS MTX 2.5L KL-DE
And this her running much much better:
This is day 1.
Just got this hard to find(at least in my area) '94 MX-6 LS manual with the
V6 and low miles.
*Power door locks
*Power leather seats(driver)
*Power mirrors(heated too)
*Leather interior. Steering wheel and shift knob are leather as well.
The car is all stock, unmolested, 15" OEM factory alloys, trunk wing(with
Only has 97K miles
Now the bad: The engine is running rough, it misfires upon acceleration,
the muffler came undone(hence the loud Exhaust), drivers seat is torn, door cards are
loose, etc... It needs some TLC which the car will finally get ;-)
I never realized how well my 1994 626 2.0L FS 4 cylinder runs until I drove
the MX-6, the 626 has been babied and it has 249k miles and still running
I plan on restoring the MX-6 and then possibly start modding / upgrading
it, only time will tell as I'm still working on my 626, here you can find
my build thread:
Stay tuned ;-)
Mazda MX-3 V6
Ballade à bord d'une Mazda mx3
dsl pour le bruit d'air encore présent...
Mazda 626, 2.0D Comprex
Menší důkaz o kvalitě japonských vozů!
.. další video z filmového studia Nikoly Alexij ALNIfilm!
Mazda 626 - Head Reassembly 5
Installation of e-Bay header (Exhaust
manifold), front EGR pipe fitting, ignition coil, fuel filter, fuel lines,
power steering pump, alternator belt, power steering & A/C belt, and valve
Special thanks to EricTheCarGuy for detailing the break-in procedure for
installing a rebuilt engine. Cranking with no spark or fuel really does
help a lot! Absolutely recommend checking out his video if you are going
through a rebuild.