How To Build a Chevy 383 Stroker - Part 1: Block & Crank
This is a new multi part series on how to assemble a small block Chevy 383 stroker motor (actually it is an internal combustion engine - "motors" are electric - but I digress LOL).
MOST of the assembly applies to any small block engine. I have divided up the assembly procedure into many parts so you can skip to the specific part you are looking for, i.e: crank, camshaft, timing chain or how to adjust rockers.
This whole series was shot by myself with my iPhone so presenting, filming and assembling could all be done smoother but "ir-regardless" I hope it helps.
PS - For those of you who who did NOT get the joke and are taking the "engine" and "motor" thing WAYYY too seriously, here are a couple instructional aides to help you figure out why you have no sense of humor.... also I would never use "ir-regardless" in proper English.
Thank you. Shannon http://www.corvettesandcustoms.org
How to Build a Chevy 383 Stroker: Part 2 - How to Install Pistons
Part 2 of "How to build a small block Chevy." It could be a 283, 327, 350,
383 or 400 engine. This segment shows how to install rings, bearings and
how to use a torque wrench for the newbies. Again, hard to film with an
iPhone while you are doing the work but hope this helps.
Inside Look at Building a Reliable and Professional Stroker Engine
STATEMENT- If you are in the market and unsure what to look for or what the
company can offer allow us the opportunity to educate you. As always we
want each and every enthusiast to buy with confidence.
This video illustrates the various steps that need to be taken to build a
powerful and reliable engine combination. Prestige Motorsports builds
engines for all varieties of street and offroad uses but the process never
cuts the crutial coners that create future failures. Every engine goes
through hours of precise machining, cleaning, QC and strategic assembly.
CALL US AT 704 782 7170 OR VISIT OUR SITE www.prestigemoto.com
The Ultimate Small Block Stroker Engine Build -- Part 1
Part 2 in this series is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_Bu8sEeNFg
The first video in a series building a big inch stroker motor. We're
cramming 427 cubic inches into a small block Chevy with all off-the-shelf
For the rest of the videos in the series, build sheets and even Dyno results, check out
ltimate-stroker/ . Thanks
We're constantly uploading great new videos. Please subscribe so you won't
MORE INTERNET GOODNESS:
Chevy 383 Stroker 650 hp
First time cranking the beast.AND THIS CARB WAS SHIT SO I REPLACED IT I WAS
ONLY USING TO TEST AND TUNE WHILE ON THE STAND- Engine Contents:
BRAND NEW DART 4 BOLT MAIN BLOCK
Heads - Dart Pro 1 Aluminum series CNC PORTED 320 CFM
Carburetor - QUICK FUEL Q-950 RACE SERIES CARBURETOR
Distributor - COMPLETE MSD DISTRIBUTOR SYSTEM WITH AL6 BOX AND COIL with 3
step and crank trigger
Hooker Super comp headers Ceramic coated
Intake Manifold -Team-G High rise intake CNC port matched
Fuel Pump - 400 GPH HIGH VOLUME Holley
Water Pump - CSR electric
Valve Covers - CUSTOM Chevy engraved and clear coated
Wires - MSD PERFORMANCE WIRES
Spark Plugs - NGK PERFORMANCE
Forged Pistons -J&E FULLY FORGED PISTONS
Forged Rods -Manley Push Rods
Crankshaft - Callies Magnum 4340 FORGED 3.75" STROKE CRANKSHAFT
Rod Bolts - ARP
Roller Camshaft - COMP CAMS ROLLER CAM
Valve Springs -Manley Nex Tek Triple Valve Springs w/ Titanium Retainers
Hydraulic Roller Lifters - COMP CAMS ROLLER LIFTERS
Double Roller Timing Set - PRECISION TRUE ROLLER
Timing Cover - CHROME GM PERFORMANCE BOWTIE
Head Bolts - ARP stainless
Flexplate - SFI PRECISION
Harmonic Balancer - ATI Performance Products SFI Rated Balancer
383 Stroker First Start!
**See the engine in action here:**
First start of my new 383 Stroker. This will be going into my 1980 vette.
Here are the specs:
1988 350 hydraulic roller block. 4 bolt main, 1pc RMS. Bored .030 over.
Eagle 383 stroker nodular cast crank, lightened and internally balanced
Eagle forged 6" connecting rods
Forged and coated Mahle flat top pistons
7qt Moroso pan kicked out for clearance. Moroso pump and pickup.
Edelbrock 2204 cam lift .539/.548 duration 296/300
64cc Edelbrock Aluminum E-tec heads, 170cc int.
Crane Cam Gold Race extruded full roller aluminum rocker arms 1.5 ratio
Edelbrock hardened pushrods
Edelbrock Rollin' Thunder hydraulic lifters
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake
Headers to be determined...
Final CR 11.0:1. Power expectations around 500hp/500tq
How to Assemble a Chevy Engine Part 1
This video will show you how to assemble a Chevy engine (or any engine)
starting from the basic block. It goes through installing the crankshaft,
checking for the right clearences using plastic gage, installing the rings
on the pistons, installling the piston in the block, checking the rod
bearing clearence, torquing all the bolts to the collect specifications,
installing the rear main seal, and demonstrating how the motor works from
the bottom view and top view.
How to Build a Chevy 383 Part 5 - Lifters & Rockers
Final part in the series "How to build a 383 Stroker Engine" explains how
to install hydraulic lifters and roller rockers and how to adjust rockers
quickly, easily and properly. This video also gives tips on installing
timing covers and valve covers so you will never have a leak!
More info, photos and videos are available at
Produced in conjunction with http://www.snowproductions.net
Hope this series has helped a few people and thank you for your support!
SB Chevy 383 Stroker Race Engine 620 HP 536 TQ Dyno
CNC Motorsports Chevy 383 stroker, Eagle Crankshaft, Eagle H Beam rods, SRP
Pistons, AFR aluminum cylinder heads. We build custom street/strip race
engines. Give us a call 800-341-1528 or 605-692-1697.. Check out our web
"WARNING" DON'T- bolt on "New in the Box" heads on your motor without. 1.0
This is one of MANY of the sets of heads through the years of doing heads.
I cannot tell you enough that you DON'T bolt on a new set of heads that are
out of the box that the company claims "ready to bolt on"!!! I know that
many of you out there are going to say "that is ridicules, why would I buy
a new set of heads to take to a machine shop to have them tore back down
and possibly a valve job and guide work done? The reason is simple and can
be explained in TWO WORDS....MASS PRODUCTION!!! All of the companies are
guilty from AFR to World Products and all the letters in-between (Brodix,
Dart, Indy, Trick Flow, GM) I have seen the following during the course of
my 24 years of doing these things, and are as follows:
1. Seen daylight through the valves using a flashlight at the entrance of
the port pointing to the valve seat
2. Seen the heads WARPED as much as .015 on the deck surface requiring the
heads to be surfaced (GM was real bad about this with the Vortec 906 and
3. Uneven Valve guide clearances, of inconsistent measurements of Taper
from top to bottom of the valve guides. This can cause Valves to stick, or
to Smoke excessively. Remember, the life of the Valve Job is the
straightness and Taper of the valve guide!
4. THE VALVE JOB IS 85% OF THE TIME "OUT OF ROUND" AND OUT OF CONCENTRIC AS
MUCH AS .006, CAUSING LEAKAGE AND BACKDRAFT PRESSURES RESULTING IN MAJOR horsepower LOSSES!!!!
These are just a FEW of the major reasons to have the heads ordered BARE,
order the parts on your own to assure you don't get CHINA VALVES, along
with CHINA SPRINGS, CHINA Guides and Studs!!! Remember, if the difference
between an assembled set and bare set is just $150.00 to $200.00 then you
got China parts all through the head (I have actually seen China writing on
guide plates and marks of China on Studs and Valves....... This is part 1
of "WHY you don't put new heads on your engine without first going through
the heads by taking them to a well versed and good reputable shop before
putting them on your engine.