View this BMW Repair Tech Tip - follow this link: http://www.bmpdesign.com/technical/suspension/files/BMW_Control_Arm_Bushing_Failure_on_E30_E36_E46_3-Series.php
This video explains how you can determine if your BMW E30, E36, or E46 3-series is experiencing control arm bushing failure...
How To: Change BMW E46 Lower Control Arm Bushings in 10min
a quick video showing how to change the lower control arm bushings.
Vehicle is a 2001 BMW 325i wagon
Start to finish in real time, might take about 30 min in the driveway, but
a great DIY.
Symptom: A clunk noise when tapping brake pedal
Fix your front end!
BMW 330i, 325i, e46, Lower Control Arms and Tie Rods How to Change out, Repair
How to remove and replace your steering tie rod(s) and lower control arm(s)
in an e46 BMW Sport. If your BMW's front end is clunking when you hit the
brakes or your car wanders on uneven pavement, it's usually your lower
control arm ball joints (built into the lower control arm) or your control
arm bushing. Under normal driving conditions you should replace the lower
control arm bushing every 60k miles and the entire control arm and bushing
as a set every 120k miles. I also replace the steering tie rods because you
are already in the area and it provides better clearance to remove the
lower control arms. Check your tires because if your front suspension has
degraded, you probably are experiencing uneven wear in the tires. Always
wear safety glasses or goggles and gloves for protection. Always get a
proper alignment soon after this procedure.
After hearing from other BMW owners, the part brand recommended would not
be Deutche Parts, but Lemforder, Meyle, Febi, and maybe Karlyn. The
Lemforder and Meyle are more OEM related and have proven to be superior
How to Replace Control Arm Bushings (EASY)
Control Arm Bushing Replacement, This video will show you how to easily
replace Upper Control Arm bushings (press the old ones out and press the
new ones in with common tools). This job is fast and easy and can be done
with basic hand tools and a ball joint or bushing press which you can rent
for free at your local parts store.
You can also use this method to replace bushings in your leaf springs and
pretty much anything that has pressed in bushings!
Get inexpensive bushings here:
Here is the press kit I was using (and I like a lot):
**If the video was helpful, please give it a "thumbs up" and consider
Leave any questions or comments below and I will answer them as well.**
How to Press a Ball Joint
How to Replace a Chevy Upper Control Arm
How to Replace a Ford Upper Control Arm
How to Replace a Lower Control Arm
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Replacing upper / thrust control arm on late model BMW 5, 6, 7 and X series
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In this DIY and How-To video, we'll outline the procedure for control arm
and bushing replacement on an E60, E61 chassis 5-series BMW (3 series
04-10). This procedure can be followed for all 5-series models from 2004
through 2011 (exc 2010 GT), 6-series (E63, 64) 2004 through 2010 (and coupe
through 2013), 7-series (E65, 66) 2001 through 2009 as well as 3-series
06-on (E90, E91, E92. E93 and F30), 5-series 11-on (F07, F10), 6-series
(F12, F13), 7-series (F01, F02), Z4 (E89) and X1, X3, X5 and X6 models
with minor detail differences.
The applicable Bentley repair manual will detail the specific procedures
and torque values for your given BMW model, to include those for the models
and chassis not listed here.
• Upper (thrust/strut) control arm
* New lock-nuts for ball-joint and bushing bolt
* Steering Knuckle Spreader Tool -
• 3/8" drive Torx bit socket set
* 3/8" drive Allen metric bit socket set
* 3/8" drive ratchet and extensions
• 1/2" drive sockets, universal joint, extensions and ratchet, 16mm -
• open-end wrench set, 16mm-21mm
• Various flat-head and phillips screwdrivers
1) Lift and properly support the front of the vehicle, so that the front
wheels are off the ground.
2) Remove the wheel/tire assembly.
3) Remove the under-chassis splash panel(s).
4) Remove the nut on the outer control arm ball joint as follows; Loosen
the nut on the end of the ball joint's through-pin. Once the nut is loose,
the through-pin will rotate with the nut (this is NOT a tapered pin as is
common on earlier designs). Use the applicable Torx or Allen bit, inserted
into the end of the through-pin, to secure the pin and remove the nut.
NOTE: DO NOT use a pickle-fork (or other ball-joint separator tools) to
separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle. The ball-joint through
pin is not tapered and does not require any type of separator tool.
5) Loosen the nut on the through-bolt for the control arm bushing mount.
7) Remove the strut clamp through-bolt and the remaining bolt securing the
swaybar endlink bracket to the steering knuckle. Move the swaybar endlink
8) Use the steering knuckle strut clamp spreader tool to slightly widen
the strut clamp.
9) Pull the steering knuckle assembly down a few inches so that the
control arm ball-joint can be pulled up and out of the steering knuckle
assembly (see step 10 before attempting to pull the ball-joint out).
10) Remove the control arm bushing through-bolt.
11) Remove the control arm ball-joint from the steering knuckle.
12) Install the new control arm by inserting the ball-joint into the
steering knuckle and the bushing up into the mounting bracket. Insert the
13) Push the steering knuckle up to seat the strut fully into the clamping
saddle (a hydraulic jack may be useful to push the steering knuckle
assembly up). Be sure that the strut is properly seated into the clamping
14) Remove the steering knuckle spreader tool.
15) Install the swaybar endlink bracket with the bracket bolt and the
steering knuckle through-bolt. Tighten the bolts to the torque specified
in the Bentley repair manual.
16) Using the Torx or Allen bit and open-end wrench, tighten the ball-joint
hut to the specified torque (Bentley repair manual).
17) Install the control arm bushing through-bolt nut. Do not fully
tighten the nut.
NOTE: The control arm must be positioned at normal ride height before
tightening the control arm bushing through-bolt and nut. This can be
accomplished by carefully (and with extreme caution) jacking under the
control arm ball-joint until the chassis shows signs of lightening on the
jack-stand or by lowering the vehicle onto ramps (so you can still work
under to access the bushing bolt and nut).
12) We're sorry, but the description can not be any longer (youtube
requirement). Watch the video and see our tech blog for the full DIY steps
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