Cylinder Head 106 - Casting & Porting Tech

Description. No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but we're almost there... ...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a 200-series video.

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Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)... In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock second-generation head that I didn't port. In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker. The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400 box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video. My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on a flow bench, I would. There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's sweet spot. Why the Lovell factor is important: https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3346/the-effect-of-valve-size Lovell gas factor calculator: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lovellgascalc.html Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate, and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say, they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance, and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!





Cylinder Head 107 - 4G63 HLA Lifter Tech
I have all 3 revisions of the DSM lifters in this video. This will help you identify which ones are in your cylinder head, as well as illustrate the cleaning process, and each lifters' advantages and disadvantages. WHEN you finally have to perform maintenance on these lifters, they're a bigger pain than a solid lift valvetrain is (ONCE). BUT if you follow the service schedule on a solid lift valvetrain, HLA's are a smaller pain overall. You'll never need feeler gauges to adjust these hydraulic lifters, and you'll never need to know their gap. You can't adjust them. You'll just know whether or not they're good by the amount of noise they make. 3 things can cause trouble with them. Clogged lifters, insufficient oil pressure, or insufficient oil volume. So before you sail your oil pump down the river, you can follow the steps in this video to rule out the first variable. You can actually remove and re-install them without taking the timing belt or camshafts out, but that will be another video. Chances are you already know this. The second and third potential issues COULD be your oil pump, but for your oil light isn't on and if there's ever been machine work in its past history to either the head or the block, I explain in "Cylinder Head 103 - Deck Tech" what a frequently-overlooked part of the cylinder head is that could be a contributor to the issue. That link is in the video. I MENTIONED ANOTHER COOL VIDEO: it was here... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lorANZ1Tptw Thank that author as well. He did a great job! I don't know the guy and claim no credit to his work, I'm just giving him a shout-out.





Cylinder Head 201 - Radius Cut Valve Job
This video covers the complete valve job process that your machinist might perform. If the 100 series videos didn't help you identify and correct a problem with your cylinder head, then this is the next step. This video is brought to you with permission from my machinist in full 1080HD, and covers cleaning up the head inside and out, preparation and setting up a radius cutter, cutting all 16 valve seats, valve grinding, and spans 3.5 hours of actual work in under 30 minutes. There's nothing like this anywhere else on YouTube. THANK YOU BALLOS PRECISION MACHINE. Thank you for the professional explanation and execution of a job excellently-done, and un-precedented access to your facilities. A valve job is done by re-grinding or replacing valves, and then having new seats cut to match the faces of the valves you're using. There are several different machines that might be utilized to achieve this result, but the process is the same no matter how it's done. There are seat cutters that utilize cutting stones. There are valve seat cutters with 3 separate angles installed 120° out-of-phase, and there are single cutters with all 3 angles (radius cutter) that cut with one blade in one pass. The machine demonstrated here is a Sunnen VGS-20 Radius Cutter. This machine (now out of production) produces a gradual curved seat that's superior to the shape of a traditional 3-angle seat. While a radius cutter does contain the 30, 45 and 60 degree angles, it does so without leaving any sharp edges between their faces. My valve selection includes Supertech 1mm oversized nitride-coated stainless steel undercut and back-cut intake valves, and 1mm oversized Inconel back-cut Exhaust valves. Inconel is a high-temperature alloy utilized in marine and forced-induction performance engines that can handle more abuse than steel can without melting. The other characteristics of the valves which are discussed typically yield bigger gains in airflow than simply using a bigger hole and a bigger valve. Why I did this to a perfectly-good cylinder head: I changed cams. Because the valves were previously recessed during another valve job 9 years ago, my valve installed height was increased and this raised the operating positions of my rocker arms. My new camshaft selection dictates using the stock valve install height. The only solutions to this valve install height problem are to either replace the valve seats, or install oversized valves. I opted for the latter.





Cylinder head porting and polishing - how to diy guide
In the video I say "Most of the power comes from properly shaping the short radius" - what is more true is that most power comes from "properly aligning the seats and bowls". The short radius is still very important, so don't overlook anything. The video above is a simple, condensed how to guide on cylinder head porting and polishing. It is meant for novice and inexperienced porters who want to know what is porting and polishing and how to do it with their own cylinder head. Its sort of a porting a polishing guide for dummies if you will. But it is also detailed and specific and guides the average DIY enthusiast in exactly what, where and how to do what needs to be done in order to increase the airflow and thereby the performance of your cylinder head. The head in this video is 4age 16v bigport head from the 4age engine from my 1987 Toyota MR2 AW11. Every cylinder head is different and there are variations in what should be done during a porting and polishing job. The specifics and details of this particular cylinder head porting and polishing job apply best to the 4age bigport head, but the general principles, tools and methods are pretty much the same for any other stage 1 mild porting job and watching this video will give you a better idea of what needs to be done and how much time is needed to successfully perform a porting and polishing job. Check out my blog for more MR2, 4AGE, DIY, and other content. http://www.driving4answers.com/ Here's a nice quote from the jafromobile channel: „There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head„ There is no better way to say it than this. There is no SINGLE RIGHT WAY of porting and polishing a head. Even when it comes to two identical heads (and no two really are). So before posting a hateful comment and telling me I just „ruined my head“ or started the next apocalypse, please have in mind that there are hundreds of different cylinder head applications and dozens of different approaches to porting. The porting and polishing work depends on the particular application of that head. This is a simple, mild stage 1 porting job for a mild 4age 16v bigport engine build. The goal was to improve airflow without drastically changing the shape of the ports. What can not be argued against is that improving airflow improves horsepower, torque and mpg. Porting and polishing improves airflow. This can not be argued against. Removing rough and sharp edges in the combustion chamber helps prevent knocking when engine compression is increased. This also can not be argued against. Everything else is the subject of debate so saying that the way someone ported and polished their head is horrible because it varies from what YOU think is right and best is wrong unless that someone used a hammer and chisel to port their head. Please do the research first and if that research objectively proves that something is wrong you are welcome to comment, and even then constructive criticism is far more helpful than insults. What I have done has not been based on my own theories or knowledge, but on the advice and material from people who have ported dozens of 4age heads and have proven benefits of their work. This video would not have been possible without the input, advice and help from people who have proven experience of porting 4age and other heads. So here's a special thanks to OST, without whose advice and help I could not have ported the 4AGE 16v bigport head you see in this video. Check out his porting services: http://club4ag.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=300 http://s79.photobucket.com/user/oldeskewltoy/library/MOmo?sort=3&page=1 Music Beaster - Awakening - Free Background Music No Copyright Music https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRJGlq7Ov2U Beaster ► Facebook - http://www.facebook.com/BeasterMusic ► YouTube - www.youtube.com/watch?v=VdKhdbCWPyw ► SoundCloud - https://soundcloud.com/beastermusic ► Twitter - https://twitter.com/BeasterMusic ► Mixcloud - http://www.mixcloud.com/beastermusic/




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