No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but we're almost there...
...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a 200-series video.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 engine's
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Edelbrock Foundries and Manufacturing
Edelbrock produces all of our cast items right here in the USA at our two
state of the art foundries. You can be assured that when you are purchasing
an edelbrock casting it is the best quality available. Check it out from
start to finish.
How to build HORSEPOWER - Ford 461ci Windsor V8 by Dandy Engines
Engine specialists Dandy Engines building a small block Windsor 461ci
stroker for Pat Staplton. Follow the engine assembly as the guys aim to
make more than 820hp naturally aspirated on regular pump unleaded 98-RON.
Pat plans on putting this brute of an engine into a Ford Falcon XD/XF Ute.
[ http://dandyengines.com ]
Creative Commons music license CC 3.0
Jahzzar - Breaking Bad
Cutting Excess Guide from ProComp 210 SBC Head, custom Porting Combustion Chambers 4
Part Four of Port modificatins on ProComp 210cc aluminum SBC heads. Guide
over hang from installation and correcting the combustion chambers to
unshroud the spark plug is a big deal on these heads. China castings leave
a lot to be desired, but still with all the work you must do it is still
the bargin of the year and is a force to be reckond with when "bang per
buck" is needed. The base of the spark plug should not be exposed in the
chamber, and any valve guide "Overhang" will obstruck flow and create fuel
"sheer" which seperates vapor to droplets that wont burn. Most Big Name
companies will not take time to detial these issues as production cost
prohibit these mods, so have your local machine shop take apart your heads
and look for these problems before you bolt them on your prize engine.
Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO!
We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's
bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different
brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and
standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC.
If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done
here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through
11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from
the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for
instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a
demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections.
You gotta do the cooking by the book.
I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular
car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case
study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are
several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that
shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my
videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts.
You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This
car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this
same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having
this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how
and why I do things the way I do when I get there.
This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a
video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month
to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for
YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the
whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
Blueprint 106 - Cylinder Bore Inspection
We're close to the end of the 100-level series. In this video I show you
how to measure the cylinder bores using 2 different tools. I compare the
results and illustrate what to look for to determine whether or not your
engine is in-spec.
The block I'm using is a 6-bolt turbo
4g63 from early '92. It has 150,000 miles and this video also serves as a
testimony for the durability of Mitsubishi's cast-iron solid-decked Sirius
I engines. This engine will be cut for a new set of pistons, so these
measurements are needed to determine what size pistons I need to get.
.030" is as far overbored as you should ever take a 4g63. Boring larger
than that will take too much off the side clearances between the cylinder
walls and result in compromised strength from hot spots. The only time
you'll ever need to cut a bigger hole is when an imperfection prevents you
from using the pistons you have, or if you're changing to a larger piston.
If you cut the block to its service limit, you have no room to fix an
imperfection should one develop... so it's best to cut as little as you can
get away with. Boring a cylinder .020" over does not significantly
increase its displacement.
The Ultimate Small Block Stroker Engine Build -- Part 1
Part 2 in this series is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_Bu8sEeNFg
The first video in a series building a big inch stroker motor. We're
cramming 427 cubic inches into a small block Chevy with all off-the-shelf
For the rest of the videos in the series, build sheets and even Dyno results, check out
ltimate-stroker/ . Thanks
We're constantly uploading great new videos. Please subscribe so you won't
MORE INTERNET GOODNESS:
How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy
How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy
Well this was a fun one to make. I believe I covered everything but if you
feel I haven't please let me know in the comments below as well as any tips
you might have to add as well. I'm not trying to make a big deal about
"pound feet" or "foot pounds" I'm just trying to put that out there, the
important thing is that you get the proper torque and get the job done
right in my opinion, what you decide to call it is up to you.
Click below and Stay Dirty
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Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee
against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of
this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage
or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this
video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power
tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment,
blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment
seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of
EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any
express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any
injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools,
equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole
responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
Pistons Cast VS Forged
Which is better and how can you tell them apart? Groutaone official race
gear found here http://www.groutaone.com/
Cylinder Head 102 - Hydro Test Valves
If you noticed a drop in compression on one cylinder, and pouring a cap of
oil through the spark plug holes didn't fix it, then it's likely you
experienced a leaky valve or a burnt valve seat. What this test does is
show you where it was leaking. Typically it takes a valve job to repair,
but this can also occur on a freshly-machined head if any work was done
improperly or out-of-center.
I'm using tap water for the test because both cylinder heads I'm testing
will receive extensive machine work and cleaning before being re-used. If
you were to do this test on a freshly-machined head, you'd want to use
deionized water as it contains none of the salts (sodium, chlorine, etc...)
that would leave deposits and corrode metal parts.