No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but we're almost there...
...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a 200-series video.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra
cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)...
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Cylinder Head 201 - Radius Cut Valve Job
This video covers the complete valve job process that your machinist might
perform. If the 100 series videos didn't help you identify and correct a
problem with your cylinder head, then this is the next step. This video is
brought to you with permission from my machinist in full 1080HD, and covers
cleaning up the head inside and out, preparation and setting up a radius
cutter, cutting all 16 valve seats, valve grinding, and spans 3.5 hours of
actual work in under 30 minutes. There's nothing like this anywhere else
THANK YOU BALLOS PRECISION MACHINE. Thank you for the professional
explanation and execution of a job excellently-done, and un-precedented
access to your facilities.
A valve job is done by re-grinding or replacing valves, and then having new
seats cut to match the faces of the valves you're using. There are several
different machines that might be utilized to achieve this result, but the
process is the same no matter how it's done. There are seat cutters that
utilize cutting stones. There are valve seat cutters with 3 separate
angles installed 120° out-of-phase, and there are single cutters with all
3 angles (radius cutter) that cut with one blade in one pass. The machine
demonstrated here is a Sunnen VGS-20 Radius Cutter. This machine (now out
of production) produces a gradual curved seat that's superior to the shape
of a traditional 3-angle seat. While a radius cutter does contain the 30,
45 and 60 degree angles, it does so without leaving any sharp edges between
My valve selection includes Supertech 1mm oversized nitride-coated
stainless steel undercut and back-cut intake valves, and 1mm oversized
Inconel back-cut Exhaust valves.
Inconel is a high-temperature alloy utilized in marine and forced-induction
performance engines that can handle more abuse than steel can without
melting. The other characteristics of the valves which are discussed
typically yield bigger gains in airflow than simply using a bigger hole and
a bigger valve.
Why I did this to a perfectly-good cylinder head:
I changed cams. Because the valves were previously recessed during another
valve job 9 years ago, my valve installed height was increased and this
raised the operating positions of my rocker arms. My new camshaft
selection dictates using the stock valve install height. The only
solutions to this valve install height problem are to either replace the
valve seats, or install oversized valves. I opted for the latter.
Cutting Excess Guide from ProComp 210 SBC Head, custom Porting Combustion Chambers 4
Part Four of Port modificatins on ProComp 210cc aluminum SBC heads. Guide
over hang from installation and correcting the combustion chambers to
unshroud the spark plug is a big deal on these heads. China castings leave
a lot to be desired, but still with all the work you must do it is still
the bargin of the year and is a force to be reckond with when "bang per
buck" is needed. The base of the spark plug should not be exposed in the
chamber, and any valve guide "Overhang" will obstruck flow and create fuel
"sheer" which seperates vapor to droplets that wont burn. Most Big Name
companies will not take time to detial these issues as production cost
prohibit these mods, so have your local machine shop take apart your heads
and look for these problems before you bolt them on your prize engine.
Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem.
In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the
valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the
valves in to make a better seal.
Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for
pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and
perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service
manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in
your service manual is in this video.
I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video.
It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it
gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for
answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you
chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around
while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If
it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or
missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports.
Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself,
never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They
will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average
How to build HORSEPOWER - Ford 461ci Windsor V8 by Dandy Engines
Engine specialists Dandy Engines building a small block Windsor 461ci
stroker for Pat Staplton. Follow the engine assembly as the guys aim to
make more than 820hp naturally aspirated on regular pump unleaded 98-RON.
Pat plans on putting this brute of an engine into a Ford Falcon XD/XF Ute.
[ http://dandyengines.com ]
Creative Commons music license CC 3.0
Jahzzar - Breaking Bad
Edelbrock Foundries and Manufacturing
Edelbrock produces all of our cast items right here in the USA at our two
state of the art foundries. You can be assured that when you are purchasing
an edelbrock casting it is the best quality available. Check it out from
start to finish.
7-Bolt Shortblock Failure - Full Diagnosis
If you are your own mechanic, there is no more important character trait
worthy of development than the ability to own your mistakes. That's where
the line is drawn between good mechanics and bad mechanics. It's not the
failures but how they deal with them that measures their ability.
In short, it's not easy to admit you did something wrong or were negligent.
But if you don't own it and talk about it, it doesn't get fixed, and
nothing positive can come from it. It was my quest to overcome my clutch
issue that lead to the creation of a video. That video is the textbook
perfect guide for how to correctly install a DSM transmission.
Crankwalk as described is caused by a casting defect. This was not a
defect. This was preventable. A lot of people would find something like
this and not tell anyone out of embarrassment. I'm not ashamed. It's my
fault. I got good use out of this engine and it was tough enough to make
it 48K miles since the last rebuild despite my abuse. I'm here to tell you
if you bought a used car that's had its clutch replaced, or if you ever pay
someone else to do it... make sure it has this bolt. It's stashed away
between the starter and the transfer case, so it's hard to see. Make sure
all of your bell housing bolts are torqued properly because fastener
problems can destroy your shortblock, clutch and transmission. If your car
fails because of a mis-aligned transmission, you have no reason to blame
It wasn't until I bought my next AWD car that I discovered there was a
smaller bolt on the other side of the block. I destroyed 3 transmissions
in the GSX first. With the damage already done to my crankshaft, I then
lost a shortblock. It's an ounce of prevention that's worth metric tons on
your bank account.
Grade 10 M8x60 bell housing bolt = MD706012. It gets 22-25'lbs of torque.
Owning my mistake permits me to learn from it through con$equence$, and
never repeat it. What good would it have done anyone else for me to learn
this lesson and not share it? That's why I'm providing this video to all
of you. Sharing it can perhaps help someone else avoid this costly
mistake. This is the final chapter for my 7-bolt, and this book is going
back on the shelf.
Here are some valuable resources if you're trying to read bearing damage:
And of course, now that I've covered the complete oil system, transmission
and driveshaft series of videos, you now have all the tools necessary to
ensure your 4g63 lasts a very long time. Whether the casting defect
exists?... or it's all caused by a bolt, or the harmonics, or whatever...
Sure, crankwalk exists and it's horrible. But with the small amount of
movement required for your crankshaft before it contacts the block isn't
far enough to make your clutch drop to the floor when you turn. You'd be
hearing woodpeckers and jackhammers on the crank long before that clutch
pedal would fall to the floor. Some people are going to hate on me for
saying that. That's fine. I believe all of the people who experienced the
clutch pedal issues had fastener problems on their bell housing.
DSMs get a bad reputation for this but we can change that. Crankwalk is
never the cause of your engine failure. Crankwalk is always a symptom of
the real problem. It's your disease that makes you deny it's your fault.
You've got the 'itis. DSM-itis.
Whenever you dig deeper, you'll discover what applied all of those thrust
loads to your crankshaft to begin with, and it's not going to be a casting
defect that moves your crank .101". Mine only went .014", but all of the
same parts failed.
PLEASE tell me in the comments if you find this bolt is missing from your
How to port and polish high performance v8 heads,tips,tricks and trade secrets exposed
*******CHECK OUT PART 2 *****
COMBUSTION CHAMBERS http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D63jgJs95gY
I look at porting and polishing high performance heads,I been
building engines for 30 years, most of that time in research and
development,I explain in real simple terms air flows and velocities,these
308ci General Motors Holden heads have been transformed over 70 hours,I
show you all the do's and dont's,keep a lookout for the rest of the
rebuild vids, as we head into final assembly,especially dialing in
camshaft's,compression ratio's and everything else that makes internal
combustion engines cranky,Aussie Heads and Race Engines-One Man One Shop
Blueprint 104 - The Crankshaft
It's important to know what you've got even before dealing with the
machinist. If you want to inspect a crankshaft, this is how you do it. I
detail the process of removing the crank and what to measure. All
specifications in this video are illustrated with a 6-bolt 4g63 turbo block, but are all actually the same for
7-bolt engines with the exception of the rod widths.
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Blueprint 106 - Cylinder Bore Inspection
We're close to the end of the 100-level series. In this video I show you
how to measure the cylinder bores using 2 different tools. I compare the
results and illustrate what to look for to determine whether or not your
engine is in-spec.
The block I'm using is a 6-bolt turbo
4g63 from early '92. It has 150,000 miles and this video also serves as a
testimony for the durability of Mitsubishi's cast-iron solid-decked Sirius
I engines. This engine will be cut for a new set of pistons, so these
measurements are needed to determine what size pistons I need to get.
.030" is as far overbored as you should ever take a 4g63. Boring larger
than that will take too much off the side clearances between the cylinder
walls and result in compromised strength from hot spots. The only time
you'll ever need to cut a bigger hole is when an imperfection prevents you
from using the pistons you have, or if you're changing to a larger piston.
If you cut the block to its service limit, you have no room to fix an
imperfection should one develop... so it's best to cut as little as you can
get away with. Boring a cylinder .020" over does not significantly
increase its displacement.
Pro Circuit Engine Porting
An inside look into the Head Modification service offered by Pro Circuit.
There is a fine line to building an engine. If limits are pushed too far
there are reliability issues. Pro Circuit's goal is to give you the very
best in high-performance service without any loss of reliability. Pro
Circuit engine modifications will give you increased from bottom to top.
For more info and pricing (in New Zealand) on 2 or 4 stroke engine work by
Pro Circuit please contact Crown Kiwi Enterprises Ltd. Ph: 06-751 4550
Pro Circuit products are proudly imported & distributed in New Zealand by
Crown Kiwi Enterprises Ltd.
Video courtesy of Pro Circuit Inc.