No really guys, what can I type here? I just went on for 18 minutes without shutting up. I apologize for deviating from my normal format, but we're almost there...
...when I port a head, there will be no voiceover, and it will be a 200-series video.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 engine's
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Cutting Excess Guide from ProComp 210 SBC Head, custom Porting Combustion Chambers 4
Part Four of Port modificatins on ProComp 210cc aluminum SBC heads. Guide
over hang from installation and correcting the combustion chambers to
unshroud the spark plug is a big deal on these heads. China castings leave
a lot to be desired, but still with all the work you must do it is still
the bargin of the year and is a force to be reckond with when "bang per
buck" is needed. The base of the spark plug should not be exposed in the
chamber, and any valve guide "Overhang" will obstruck flow and create fuel
"sheer" which seperates vapor to droplets that wont burn. Most Big Name
companies will not take time to detial these issues as production cost
prohibit these mods, so have your local machine shop take apart your heads
and look for these problems before you bolt them on your prize engine.
Edelbrock Foundries and Manufacturing
Edelbrock produces all of our cast items right here in the USA at our two
state of the art foundries. You can be assured that when you are purchasing
an edelbrock casting it is the best quality available. Check it out from
start to finish.
Blueprint 106 - Cylinder Bore Inspection
We're close to the end of the 100-level series. In this video I show you
how to measure the cylinder bores using 2 different tools. I compare the
results and illustrate what to look for to determine whether or not your
engine is in-spec.
The block I'm using is a 6-bolt turbo
4g63 from early '92. It has 150,000 miles and this video also serves as a
testimony for the durability of Mitsubishi's cast-iron solid-decked Sirius
I engines. This engine will be cut for a new set of pistons, so these
measurements are needed to determine what size pistons I need to get.
.030" is as far overbored as you should ever take a 4g63. Boring larger
than that will take too much off the side clearances between the cylinder
walls and result in compromised strength from hot spots. The only time
you'll ever need to cut a bigger hole is when an imperfection prevents you
from using the pistons you have, or if you're changing to a larger piston.
If you cut the block to its service limit, you have no room to fix an
imperfection should one develop... so it's best to cut as little as you can
get away with. Boring a cylinder .020" over does not significantly
increase its displacement.
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Cylinder Head 102 - Hydro Test Valves
If you noticed a drop in compression on one cylinder, and pouring a cap of
oil through the spark plug holes didn't fix it, then it's likely you
experienced a leaky valve or a burnt valve seat. What this test does is
show you where it was leaking. Typically it takes a valve job to repair,
but this can also occur on a freshly-machined head if any work was done
improperly or out-of-center.
I'm using tap water for the test because both cylinder heads I'm testing
will receive extensive machine work and cleaning before being re-used. If
you were to do this test on a freshly-machined head, you'd want to use
deionized water as it contains none of the salts (sodium, chlorine, etc...)
that would leave deposits and corrode metal parts.
How To Remove and Replace Valves in a Cylinder Head -EricTheCarGuy
If you need to remove a valve from a cylinder head either to replace the
valve or replace the valve seals, this video will help you do that. You can
also do this process while the cylinder head is still fastened to the
engine block with some tools. To do that, put the piston at TDC compression
stroke and make sure both valves are closed. You can then run compressed
air into the cylinder to hold the valves in place as you compress the valve
springs. I often use my compression tester hose to do this. You need to
remove the schrader valve first before you attempt this, if not, air will
not flow into the cylinder. You can also use a piece of rope or equivalent
to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder while you work. This
method works well if you're just replacing the valve seals. You won't be
able to use the large spring compressor however. You'll have to use the
Lisle or some other type of compressor do manage that task. Here's some
useful links for you.
Large Spring Compressor:
Lisle Spring Compressor Tool:
I had a heck of a time trying to find the Honda special tool and was not
able to provide a link for you. Sorry about that. The Lisle tool will work
just fine, OR I've seen some home made versions of that type of extension
that looked like they'd work pretty well.
Basic Parts of an Engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saPGX-1qC4M
Civic Engine R&R Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Me9w6aIqJ48
Tahoe Engine R&R Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMkqWMvcdiQ
Dodge Ram Engine R&R Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oc3zSgEA8Jk
Sonoma Engine R&R Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ivqj2LjE28
How to Find Leaks:
Discussion about this video:
The best place for answers to your automotive questions:
EricTheCarGuy code lookup: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/obd-code-lookup
Information on Premium Membership:
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee
against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of
this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage
or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this
video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power
tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment,
blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment
seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of
EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any
express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any
injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools,
equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole
responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
How to build HORSEPOWER - Ford 461ci Windsor V8 by Dandy Engines
Engine specialists Dandy Engines building a small block Windsor 461ci
stroker for Pat Staplton. Follow the engine assembly as the guys aim to
make more than 820hp naturally aspirated on regular pump unleaded 98-RON.
Pat plans on putting this brute of an engine into a Ford Falcon XD/XF Ute.
[ http://dandyengines.com ]
Creative Commons music license CC 3.0
Jahzzar - Breaking Bad
Blueprint 104 - The Crankshaft
It's important to know what you've got even before dealing with the
machinist. If you want to inspect a crankshaft, this is how you do it. I
detail the process of removing the crank and what to measure. All
specifications in this video are illustrated with a 6-bolt 4g63 turbo block, but are all actually the same for
7-bolt engines with the exception of the rod widths.
The Ultimate Small Block Stroker Engine Build -- Part 1
Part 2 in this series is here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_Bu8sEeNFg
The first video in a series building a big inch stroker motor. We're
cramming 427 cubic inches into a small block Chevy with all off-the-shelf
For the rest of the videos in the series, build sheets and even Dyno results, check out
ltimate-stroker/ . Thanks
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