Built 1992 talon tsi 6/4 JE/Crower/ARP 2.0 4g63 Turbo
Built '92 idiling-shot of motor-Spearco front mount-2.5" Intercooler piping-evo III 16g-tube manifolds-880 cc injectors-E-Promm w/ 5500 RPM Anti-Lag-Blah Blah Blah...700 HP BIG turbo TO COME...STAY TUNED :)
4g64 DOHC Build-up
Here's a short video of my 4g64 with 4g63 head Build-up.
I still need to tune the motor a little as you can see or hear in the
video, the motor sounds a little rich specially after 7000 rpms. Dyno video coming soon... Hope
you liked it..
700HP+ 1992 EAGLE TALON TSI AWD WALKAROUND!
The current listing on Ebay for the car is here
4G63 Turbo vs Civic GTR turbo 4G63 on L type chassy Lancer made
it to the Championship of the Expert category. Getting set to match up
with our all motor Single Cam TOR Civic GTR. It was definitely a great run
for both cars but in the end our Civic GTR came out VICTORIOUS during the
February 23, 2008 Drag racing event at BRC...
4g63 Turbo Manifold Swap #1
This is one of the problems I found after the Thursday night test & tune.
Over the next 2 days, I kept watching my airflow counts dropping gradually
in my logs and knew what was going down. Then I decided to drive it to
work and it sounded like somebody was running next to me with a
lawnmower... further confirming that I knew what was going on. Yep.
Pre-turboExhaust leak. It still had balls when I mashed
the gas, but I could tell it wasn't right. I was surprised because when I
found the crack, I realized I shouldn't have even been able to spool the turbo. This manifold flows better than the
stock piece, sure... but unless you get one made of inconel, it's a raging
pile of crap. Get rid of it. 304 stainless doesn't cut it. I even had
the lower turbo/Exhaust brace in place, so it wasn't getting
wrenched on accelerating and decelerating. This thing just wore out &
broke off from heat and pressure, and it did it in less than 2000 miles.
Yes, it's the one in the polishing video.
Other things that are a good idea to do...
1) always use factory turbo bolts and
washers. You're supposed to replace them with NEW bolts and washers. Use
FACTORY TORQUE SPECS! 21-23lbs + 60-70°
2) Stainless Steel 3mm turbo gaskets are
re-usable. Worth the investment.
3) Use Stainless Steel ARP head studs. They don't break off like OEM ones
do. This job sucks when you snap off factory studs. Use FACTORY TORQUE
SPECS! 19-21 lbs (even on ARP hardware) for the M8 nuts. 21-23 lbs on the
outer two M10 nuts if you have a 2g.
4) if you have to replace one, just get the EVO manifold. It dwarfs both
the 1g and 2g. The turbo flange is
bigger, so put my turbo port & polish
video to use. It doesn't need to be ported like the 2g part does, and it's
a thicker cast making it last much longer. If you have the cash, go ahead
and buy the Forced Performance cast manifold. You won't regret it.
5) The only people that will know why this video is called Manifold Swap #1
are the people who read the info. I have a brand new FP manifold that's
being ceramic coated, and I had bought it prior to this failure, not
anticipating that it would happen. Lucky me. I hated where the tubular
bits ended up in my engine bay, and they're preventing me from
re-installing my polished valve cover. The only reason I put that thing on
my car was because the 2g stock manifold was ugly. Ugly, sure... but it
works just as good and more reliably than these tubular things. If you buy
a manifold, buy a CAST manifold.
V8 Hunter dsm, beating a built chevy truck (parish lane) at this time the
truck was over 700 hp+. Highway pulls up to 130 mph+