Cylinder Head 201 - Radius Cut Valve Job
This video covers the complete valve job process that your machinist might perform. If the 100 series videos didn't help you identify and correct a problem with your cylinder head, then this is the next step. This video is brought to you with permission from my machinist in full 1080HD, and covers cleaning up the head inside and out, preparation and setting up a radius cutter, cutting all 16 valve seats, valve grinding, and spans 3.5 hours of actual work in under 30 minutes. There's nothing like this anywhere else on YouTube. THANK YOU BALLOS PRECISION MACHINE. Thank you for the professional explanation and execution of a job excellently-done, and un-precedented access to your facilities. A valve job is done by re-grinding or replacing valves, and then having new seats cut to match the faces of the valves you're using. There are several different machines that might be utilized to achieve this result, but the process is the same no matter how it's done. There are seat cutters that utilize cutting stones. There are valve seat cutters with 3 separate angles installed 120° out-of-phase, and there are single cutters with all 3 angles (radius cutter) that cut with one blade in one pass. The machine demonstrated here is a Sunnen VGS-20 Radius Cutter. This machine (now out of production) produces a gradual curved seat that's superior to the shape of a traditional 3-angle seat. While a radius cutter does contain the 30, 45 and 60 degree angles, it does so without leaving any sharp edges between their faces. My valve selection includes Supertech 1mm oversized nitride-coated stainless steel undercut and back-cut intake valves, and 1mm oversized Inconel back-cut Exhaust valves. Inconel is a high-temperature alloy utilized in marine and forced-induction performance engines that can handle more abuse than steel can without melting. The other characteristics of the valves which are discussed typically yield bigger gains in airflow than simply using a bigger hole and a bigger valve. Why I did this to a perfectly-good cylinder head: I changed cams. Because the valves were previously recessed during another valve job 9 years ago, my valve installed height was increased and this raised the operating positions of my rocker arms. My new camshaft selection dictates using the stock valve install height. The only solutions to this valve install height problem are to either replace the valve seats, or install oversized valves. I opted for the latter.
HOW TO RESURFACE A WARPED CYLINDER HEAD AT HOME WITH SAND PAPER
This is how to resurface a cylinder head at home using sandpaper a flat sanding block flat straight glass and thick board never be afraid to challenge a task and never back down. God Bless
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)... In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock second-generation head that I didn't port. In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker. The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400 box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video. My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on a flow bench, I would. There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's sweet spot. Why the Lovell factor is important: https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3346/the-effect-of-valve-size Lovell gas factor calculator: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lovellgascalc.html Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate, and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say, they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance, and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Cylinder Head 205 - Degree DOHC Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why... is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and they're all defeated here. The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same. I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on Jafromobile. Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those specifications without additional hardware or without causing a catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process. It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206 should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist pins. Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its peak performance.