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Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics

Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem. In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the valves in to make a better seal. Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in your service manual is in this video. I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video. It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports. Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself, never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average gearhead's garage.


 


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How To Remove and Replace Valves in a Cylinder Head -EricTheCarGuy
If you need to remove a valve from a cylinder head either to replace the valve or replace the valve seals, this video will help you do that. You can also do this process while the cylinder head is still fastened to the engine block with some tools. To do that, put the piston at TDC compression stroke and make sure both valves are closed. You can then run compressed air into the cylinder to hold the valves in place as you compress the valve springs. I often use my compression tester hose to do this. You need to remove the schrader valve first before you attempt this, if not, air will not flow into the cylinder. You can also use a piece of rope or equivalent to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder while you work. This method works well if you're just replacing the valve seals. You won't be able to use the large spring compressor however. You'll have to use the Lisle or some other type of compressor do manage that task. Here's some useful links for you. Tools. Large Spring Compressor: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/gearwrench-383d-valve-spring-compressor/#oid=100 2_1 Lisle Spring Compressor Tool: http://www.jbtoolsales.com/lisle-36050-valve-keeper-remover-and-installer-k it/#oid=1002_1 I had a heck of a time trying to find the Honda special tool and was not able to provide a link for you. Sorry about that. The Lisle tool will work just fine, OR I've seen some home made versions of that type of extension that looked like they'd work pretty well. Related videos. Basic Parts of an Engine: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saPGX-1qC4M Civic Engine R&R Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Me9w6aIqJ48 Tahoe Engine R&R Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aMkqWMvcdiQ Dodge Ram Engine R&R Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oc3zSgEA8Jk Sonoma Engine R&R Part 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ivqj2LjE28 Articles. How to Find Leaks: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/finding-and-fixing-fluid-leaks Discussion about this video: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/kunena/18-The-EricTheCarGuy-Video-Forum/50319- how-to-remove-replace-valves-in-a-cylinder-head#92526 The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com EricTheCarGuy code lookup: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/obd-code-lookup Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy?fref=ts Twitter: https://twitter.com/EricTheCarGuy Google+: https://plus.google.com/100195180196698058780/posts Information on Premium Membership: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/premium-content-streaming-etcg-content Stay Dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





HOW TO RESURFACE A WARPED CYLINDER HEAD AT HOME WITH SAND PAPER
This is how to resurface a cylinder head at home using sandpaper a flat sanding block flat straight glass and thick board never be afraid to challenge a task and never back down. God Bless





BDA Cylinder Head Repair after valve and seat damage
BDA Cylinder Head Repair by Vulcan Engineering after valve & Seat damage. www.vulcanengines.com





Engine Exterior Cleaning
Cleaning the exterior of my engine block with citrus degreaser and aluminum brush. Scrubbing away the grime can help detect oil leaks but can also make them worse. Cleaning is a double-edge sword. It's always best to bring leaks to the forefront instead of keeping them hidden by grime. My philosophy is not to hide the leaks but to detect and fix them. Adam Singer is co-creator of the music track (collaboration).





Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)... In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock second-generation head that I didn't port. In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker. The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400 box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video. My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on a flow bench, I would. There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's sweet spot. Why the Lovell factor is important: https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3346/the-effect-of-valve-size Lovell gas factor calculator: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lovellgascalc.html Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate, and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say, they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance, and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!





Cylinder Head 102 - Hydro Test Valves
If you noticed a drop in compression on one cylinder, and pouring a cap of oil through the spark plug holes didn't fix it, then it's likely you experienced a leaky valve or a burnt valve seat. What this test does is show you where it was leaking. Typically it takes a valve job to repair, but this can also occur on a freshly-machined head if any work was done improperly or out-of-center. I'm using tap water for the test because both cylinder heads I'm testing will receive extensive machine work and cleaning before being re-used. If you were to do this test on a freshly-machined head, you'd want to use deionized water as it contains none of the salts (sodium, chlorine, etc...) that would leave deposits and corrode metal parts.





Cylinder Head 101 - Remove Cams Rockers & Lifters
Going through a 4g63 Cylinder Head? You're on the right channel. I don't know how many parts there will be to this series, I suppose it could go on forever... We all have different ways of doing it, and I'm going to show you mine. This video won't put a dent in most people's grey matter outside of entertainment value... but I tried to keep it fun. I'd like to leave at least a small dent. But no music in these because they're going to cover a lot of ground and fast. I'm not doing anything difficult. This part of this job really isn't. Most everybody pays someone else to do the complicated stuff for them, and those people do it every day so it's still easy unless you earn your money to pay for it from difficult and degrading means. But this video's about getting started. There's some safety and organization tips to be aware of before diving in. Stuff that could help people whether or not they even own a Mitsubishi. Everything else is in the videos!





How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy
How To Torque Cylinder Head Bolts - EricTheCarGuy http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ Well this was a fun one to make. I believe I covered everything but if you feel I haven't please let me know in the comments below as well as any tips you might have to add as well. I'm not trying to make a big deal about "pound feet" or "foot pounds" I'm just trying to put that out there, the important thing is that you get the proper torque and get the job done right in my opinion, what you decide to call it is up to you. --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





Cylinder Head 104 - Remove Valves & Springs
Just one of many ways to remove valves from a cylinder head. I haven't seen a valve compressor like this one on YouTube yet. I know it's nobody makes them like this, because this one is a custom hack job specifically for 4g63 heads... but it's extremely effective and easy to use. Since I don't own a valve grinder, valve spring pressure testers (for installed height measurement), or valve seat grinding stones... there are several services I'm unable to perform myself. But since I can get the head disassembled to this state, it would be easier and cheaper for me to have them serviced by someone who does. Valve grinding machine time is cheaper if they don't have to tear down the head. You can lap them in yourself, but if the seat's in really bad shape, it will require attention to allow any of those efforts to be worthwhile. Valve seat grinding if necessary needs to be done with the proper tools, and if the seats must be replaced, then it can get expensive. Usually $20-ish a hole. Sometimes an oversized bore can be cut into a factory seat. I'm ordering a set of valves to see if that's possible.





New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to stick before encountering this. More on this build... The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video. I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides. Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore 6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my 150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful. Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough. In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.





How to change Head Gasket on VW 1.9d engines
How to change timing belt on a volkswagon caddy van 1.9 standard diesel engine. Same procedure for most diesel engines. Also useful if changing timing belt, tensioner, cylinder head etc. - Stanley 3/8 Ratchet: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0024LEASQ/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=163 4&creative=6738&creativeASIN=B0024LEASQ&linkCode=as2&tag=yt-links-21&linkId =CA3SPYGOTNOLTOIJ - Tengtools 1/2 Torque Wrench: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000Y8N07S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=163 4&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B000Y8N07S&linkCode=as2&tag=yt-links-21&linkI d=XGY6A5CJMDILEFMT - VW Locking Tool: http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00512TNHS/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=163 4&creative=19450&creativeASIN=B00512TNHS&linkCode=as2&tag=yt-links-21&linkI d=VQJHTIVJURVIGHFR - - - - - - - - - - - - - Due to factors beyond the control of FixItSam, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. FixItSam assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. FixItSam recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of FixItSam, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not youtube.com/fixitsam.





Installing Piston Rings The Easy Way "NO TOOLS"!
In this video I show and explain the easiest way to install your piston rings with out breaking them. I if you need to Clock your Rings, I made a video for that also..If your looking for the diagram for the ring clocking specs you can find it on my web site www.Nthefastlane.com Click the "Filling Cabinet Tab" Help Support My Channel: https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=9ZT925 NTLR5E6 Visit me at: http://www.Nthefastlane.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Nthefastlane Google+: https://plus.google.com/117540915227325837174





Block Preparation Part 1
Preparation for powder coating and Glyptal application. Audio track is an original performance by Rojo Del Chocolate. My block is being powder coated rather than painted. It's just something I do. The GSX had it on the last block so it's getting it again. Since the tools are so similar and the mess is the same, I'm going ahead and preparing it for the Glyptal application as well. These 2 coatings will require being baked separately. The powder coating is baked on at a hotter temperature than the Glyptal, so it's going first. The surface preparation instructions for Glyptal is as follows: Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scale. The last sentence is what's covered in this video. The 2nd sentence happens next (although it's already degreased), and I'll get it back from powder coat with it in the state described in sentence #1 completed. If following these instructions to the letter of the law. Second and third opinions in... the main journal is fine. You'll notice that I didn't coat the main caps, or "suitcase handles". I'm not going to. You bang around on these installing and removing them, and I don't want to risk chipping them once they're coated. They're below the windage area, and there will also be an un-coated main bearing girdle down there. This video covered 25 hours of actual work. Yes, I kept changing into the same filthy clothes every shoot because I wanted it to look consistent. You have to take your time doing this kind of work, and be VERY VERY CAREFUL! If for some reason you're crazy enough to attempt what I do in this video, you do so at your own risk. This is an elective treatment that I've never done, but I am by no means the first person to do it. I'm learning about it just like the rest of you.





How to Reseat / Lap Valves (Basic Valve Job)
In this video i'm explaining how to reseat or lap valves in a flathead or overhead valve engine. Also can be called a valve job, but this is not a complete valve job. I also used to much valve grinding compound, it does not require a whole lot. Usually when a engine needs this done is when a engine has low compression that is found to be leaking around the valves, or sometimes a engine will backfire do to the valves not closing completely/properly. Thanks for watching.





COMP Cams How to Set a Valve Lash
Valve lash is the mechanical clearance in the valvetrain from the valve tip to the rocker in a pushrod engine using solid lifters. Watch as COMP Cams explain how to make lash valve adjustments with the proper tools. http://www.summitracing.com/redirect?banner=SocialYT1189





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