Chevy 350 HONE/tear down pt2
I try to manage the camera and a drill with hone tool on it... Sorry im
not the best with a camera. I did major cleaning to the block here and show
you how well I cleaned the cylinders from the rust that was there before.
I try to hone for you to show you how it's done.
Engine rebuild part 1
This series is available on DVD Here is the link
We are rebuilding a GM 350 5.7 engine. Now in this particular case we
are also going to upgrade the engine to a 383 6.0 This is called
building a "stroker" motor. In other words we are increasing the "stroke"
of the engine which increased the torq & horsepower.
If you are able & wanting to rebuild an engine, this video should give you
a good overview of what to do. If you are having someone else build an
engine for you, you will be able to see what's involved in the process
How to Adjust Valve on a Small Block Chevy
Family owned and operated for over 40 years with over 75,000 satisfied
customers. Rated #1 Click on blue link
This video shows our procedure how to properly adjust valves. This works on
all engines with adjustable valve train. Produced by enginefactory.com
Worlds leader in turn key muscle car engines.
How To Clean The Carbon From Top Of Pistons | Using Only Household Products
VISIT THE SITE TO SEE ALL PHOTOS AND VIDEOS ON THIS:
After pulling the GT40 heads from the 5.0 roller motor I discovered that
the tops of the pistons were coated in a thick layer of black carbon
buildup. The cylinder walls (bores) were in great shape with no gouges or
burrs. This left me with 2 options. Option 1 was to disassemble the entire
short block and replace the pistons and parts that were essential after
short block disassembly. Or Option 2 was to try and clean these up and
freshen up the cylinder walls. I chose option 2.
I started by spraying the piston tops with the bathroom cleaner and I let
it soak in for about 10 minutes. Next, I took an SOS or Brillo pad and
soaked it in rubbing alcohol. I started to scrub and scrub until the carbon
began to come off in places. This is a vigorous process that does require
some old fashioned elbow grease but in the end the results are well worth
it. Once all of the carbon was relatively gone off of the flat areas of the
piston I broke out the air grinder with a brass brush for the valve reliefs
The air tools are not essential if you want to take a little extra time
with a brass bristled hand brush. Whatever you do, only use brass! After
all of the carbon was clear I used the steel wool wet with alcohol and
wiped down the cylinder bores and made them shine like new again. I gave
the pistons a final rinse with alcohol and then vigorously oiled the
pistons and the cylinder walls to ensure no surface rust would appear. I
also sprayed them down with Ballistol (gun cleaner all natural)
Anyone can do this with a little time and patients. Just take your time and
you'll love the results!
Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing? Valves not bent? This is how you fix that problem.
In this video I outline the basic valve job procedure. Cleaning the
valves, cleaning the seats, cleaning the combustion chamber and lapping the
valves in to make a better seal.
Here I cover the process start-to-finish. It's the same exact process for
pretty much all non-rotary combustion engines. It takes patience and
perseverance to do this job, but anyone can do it. Reference your service
manual for measurements and service limits. Everything else that's not in
your service manual is in this video.
I apologize for not having broken busted crap to work with in this video.
It's more beneficial to all of you when bad fortune falls on me because it
gets well documented, and many people watching these videos are looking for
answers. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you
chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around
while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If
it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or
missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports.
Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself,
never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They
will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average
PART4 chevy 350 rebuild/PAINT
I put the parts mostly together just to paint. I got Chevy orange/red. It's
a nice color and goes on well. I got 2 cans and did everything you see in
the video with just 1 can. Once all the gaskets and everything are on and
the block is together to say I'll burn another can on it just to be safe ;)
Happy watching and subscribe!
How-To Rebuild the Top End of a Chevy 350 V8 Small Block Engine
Chris Duke from Motorz TV http://www.motorz.tv shows you how to rebuild the
top end of a Chevy 350 V8 small block engine, featuring products from Dart
Machinery and Crower Cams.
Show notes: http://www.motorz.tv/top-end-rebuild/
Watch the complete Chevy 350 engine rebuild series:
1. Tear Down: http://youtu.be/LZO1fWVxN4c
2. Machine Shop: http://youtu.be/e3r3wRBoXkk
3. Bottom End: http://youtu.be/gfrYWKi78zc
4. Top End: http://youtu.be/g46s-Vr4Br0
5. Finale: http://youtu.be/mvJNMN-oP68
Chevy 350 Small Block Rebuild
Bored 40., aluminum angled plug heads by dart, edelbrock performer series
intake, edelbrock 750 carb, comp cams cam, crane cams roller rocker,
chromale pushrods, and alot more stuff
Engine Rebuild class (the engine WORKS!!)
Our nasty Chevy 350 runs.
Motor: Chevy 350, 4 bolt main, .30 over,
Left head: 350 head, Right head: Chevy 305.
History: Came from a local junk yard, all bearing were fried, rings shot.
Oil vally was painted a pretty gold (old racer trick to make the oil flow
better : Didn't work)
Last owner just frankenstein it together.
Goal: needed to fire-up and runs for a few secs.
Summer class 2009 glendale community college AZ
383 Stroker 500HP+ rebuilt
a few days after everything was finished (old 383 Stroker with stock iron
heads)the engine blew up with a broken piston.I will post a video about
that later. Luckily the Engine-Block didn't suffer any damage and after
disassembly of the whole motor it was the perfect 4-Bolt base for a real
500+ HP 383 Stroker. This time I wanted serious horsepower!
So here we go, over 4.700$ in parts later...assembly is finished and right
now the motor waits for going back into the Truck. Still a lot of other
stuff to do at the Truck, but I think the Motor will be in the Truck
running, in about 4-5 Weeks.
The Parts used in the Rebuild 383 Stroker
- Airflow Research 195cc SBC Eliminator Street Heads
- COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam and Lifter Kits
- 1.6 Harland Sharp Roller Rockers
- SCAT Cast Crankshafts
- 6.0 in. SCAT Pro Stock I-Beam Connecting Rods
- Keith Black B122-040 Performance Pistons
- Mahle Piston Rings
- Trick Flow Chromemoly Pushrods
- Hooker Headers 2806HKR - Hooker Super Competition Headers
- ARP Head and Main Cap Bolts
- TCI SFI Approved Flexplate
- Professional Products 6.750 in. Harmonic Damper
- Proform Billet Aluminum Timing Tab with Self-Powered LED Light
- Peter Jackson noisy Gear Drive
- Edelbrock Aluminium Timing Cover
- Edelbrock Air Gap Performer RPM Intake
- Edelbrock 750 Performer Carb
- Fel-Pro Gaskets all arround
- Milodon Freeze Plugs
- MSD Digital E-Curve Distributor
- MSD Blaster 2 Coil
- MSD Super Conductor Wires
- K&N 5" Air Filter
- Proform Engine Dress-Up KIit
- Dual 14" Perma Cool Fans
- Mallory Fuel pressure regulator for return line system
- new Battery
- new 110 Amp Alternator
Still to come:
- True Dual 2,5" Flowmaster 50 Deltaflow Exhaust and 2 electric cutouts
- Driveshaft Safety Loop
- Rear Axle 4.10 Ring and Pinion with my powertrax locker
Many thanks to all the support and the nice guys that helped me to build
this beautiful Motor!!!Thanks guys you're great!!!:)
That's it for now...stay tuned!