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Panasonic TV Repair-Power Supply Repair Kit ETX2MM70 - No Power-2 or 10 Blinking Light
Repair Kit includes parts for symptoms that include no power and 2 or 10 blinks of front light. CLICK HERE to Purchase Replacement Kit: http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sj-ETX2MM70&utm_source=you tube&utm_medium=ETX2MM70repairkit&utm_campaign=ETX2MM70repairkit The Panasonic ETX2MM702MFN Power Supply Component Repair Kit includes all of the necessary components to repair common failures on the main power supply board. Symptoms include: No power and if you have two or ten blinks on the front light. After I have removed the power board from the panel, I will start removing components. The first piece that I will remove is a heatsink. I am starting by desoldering these points on the bottom side of the board. I will use my desolder gun to heat up the solder and then the vacuum in the desolder gun sucks up the excess solder. You could also use a solder sucker or solder iron and wick. Some of the solder points may be difficult to reach. Use caution to not damage the board, and if needed remove other heat sinks to gain access to the solder points. I have flipped the board over and will now pull out the heat sink. Again, I will use my desolder gun to release the smaller satellite boards from the power supply. Those boards are green and have highlighted them with a red circle. After I have desoldered the satellite board, I can reach under the power supply and free that satellite board. I will repeat the same process on the other satellite board. We do not show it in the video, but after desoldering the satellite board, I will gently pull it loose from the power supply. I will need to remove this heat sink from the board, so that I can access the solder points underneath it. I will flip the board over and desolder the heat sink by desoldering these solder points on the top side. I can wiggle the heat sink to loosen it from the board. Next, I will desolder the fuse solder points on the bottom side of the board, then remove the fuse from the board. Next, I will use my solder iron and solder wick to clean up the pads on the board and remove the excess solder. I hold the wick on the pad and then apply pressure and heat with the iron to the wick. I will clip the wick as I use it to get a fresh piece every so often. After I have cleaned up the pads, I will put the fuse on the top side of the board and push the legs through the proper holes. Then I can solder the legs to the board using my iron and solder. Be sure to clip the legs close to the board. Next, I will solder the large heat sink back to the board. When replacing transistors, you will want to bend the pins to match the transistor you are removing. This is important, because it allows the transistor to fit through the board properly. To remove the transistor, use the screw driver to unscrew it from the heat sink. Then you can screw the replacement transistor in the same spot while pointing it in the same direction as the original. After that, you can put the heat sink back on the front side of the board and slide it through the holes. I will solder the heat sink on the bottom side of the board. Again, be sure to clip the legs after you are done soldering. Next, I will use my desolder gun to clean the points of the satellite board. I will place my tweezers onto the capacitor on the satellite board and use my heat gun to loosen it from the board. After it has loosened, I will lift it from the board with my tweezers. Since the heat gun melted part of the mat on my desk, I will place the satellite board onto the heat sink on the board. I am using the heat sink as the platform because it is metal and will not melt. Normally I would use my pre-heater, but not everyone will have a pre-heater. When removing the IC from the satellite board, I will place my tweezers on the legs of the IC and then use my heat gun to heat up the component. After the IC has been loosened from the board, I will pull it off with my tweezers. Then I will use my solder wick and iron to clean up the pads. Next, I will apply some solder paste onto the pads for the capacitor. I will use my tweezers to hold the capacitor in place, while I apply heat with my heat gun to secure the component to the board. After I have placed the IC on the board, I will apply pressure with the tweezers to hold it in place and then run some solder flux over the legs. Then, I will add a little bit of solder onto my iron and then run the iron over the legs to solder this side. TV Models: TH-42PZ85U TH-42PZ80U TH-42PZ800U TH-C42FD18 TH-42PZ8BA TH-42PZ81B TH-C46FD18 TH-46PZ80U TH-46PZ85U TX-P46G10B TH-46PZ8BA TH-46PZ82BA TH-46PZ800U TH-46PZ850U TH-50PZ85U TH-50PZ80U TH-50PZ800U TH-50PZ85UA TH-50PZ81B TH-50PZ850U TH50PF11UK TH-50PZ80B TH-C50FD18 TH-58PZ800B TH-58PZ800U TH-58PZ850U TH-65PF11UK TH-65VX100U TH-65PZ850U VP504FHDTV10A TV Repair Made Easy™ © 2015 ShopJimmy.com, LLC.





Comparison of Kuro 9G (PDP-LX5090) plasma & 2011 Panasonic PDP drive method
In this comparison, the stark difference between the two panels is quite visible. The Kuro uses a sequential sub-drive method with short but numerous subfields (28 SF on normal mode, 14 SF on energy save mode.) The subfields increase linearly in intensity. In the Panasonic drive method, the subfields vary significantly in size and they are scattered across the overall frame. Also, the dithering in the Panasonic is considerably more aggressive although is visually less noticeable compared to the Kuro. The primary advantage of the Panasonic drive method is flicker and power consumption are both considerably reduced. Also, the more optimised phosphor, with higher efficiency is visible. Of particular note is how the red phosphor now decays very quickly, with the green also being improved somewhat, reducing motion blur and eye-scan flicker. On the Kuro, the red and green phosphors decay slowly, resulting in the panel appearing to alternate between blue and yellow (in reality, the red and green simply decay later causing the tint effect.) The main disadvantage is that odd numbered subfields cause "dynamic false contouring", which is a fancy term for making moving objects look like they are an oil painting with multiple bands at colour transition points. This only happens in certain scenes and movement rates but is a small penalty for an otherwise improve drive method. This is one of the coolest things about PDPs for me, how they create the actual display image, because the display is binary only, a lot of "human factors" engineering goes on, basically, figure out how to trick the eye into seeing a full colour image. And it works really, really well.





Energy power consumption wattage Panasonic flat screen tv
A standard flat panel TV connected to a power consumption meter. Unit displayed in Watts. Meter shows average of ~70-120W





Panasonic new high performance, low power consumption TV ...
More informations and videos on http://www.cinenow.co.uk Panasonic new high performance, low power consumption TV panels (ISE 2009)




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