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1987 Shelby Charger GLHS #477 - Engine - FOR SALE BY OWNER - October, 2012

IF INTERESTED, PLEASE EMAIL ME AT 1987chargerglhs477@gmail.comSEE PICTURES AT http://1987chargerglhs477.wordpress.com/ This car has a little over 51,000 actual and documented miles at the time of this video upload. The turbo is very strong, does not blow any blue smoke or burn oil. The engine compartment is still real clean. I removed the air conditioning compressor, refrigerant lines and condenser back in 1997. The previous owner said that the compressor seal had leaked oil (which is evident from the oil streak on the hood blanket) and never got it repaired. Honestly, I never cared to repair it either. Any 4-cylinder engine I've owned totally sucked when the air conditioning compressor kicked on. But all of the parts are included. Aside from the compressor seal, all of the other parts including the condenser appears to be in very good shape. The Koni adjustable shocks & struts are original and have not leaked. They work excellent (I've always had them on the lowest setting) and include the adjustment key. The driver-side ball joint dust boot has had a split in it since the day I owned it. I bought an original Mopar stock ball joint with intentions on getting it replaced but never had the time. There is a slight rattle from it but it is nothing that I felt needed to be replaced immediately. I installed a K&N air filter, replaced the charge air temperature sensor, resealed the valve cover the proper way, replaced the Hall-effect sensor, and cap/rotor and wires. The oil pan should eventually be resealed, as it shows a small drop after a full week of driving. Again, nothing that I would say needs to be done right away. With the Mopar Performance Stage II computer, I've installed Bosch Platinum spark plugs that is one hotter than specified by the Shelby engine decal up by the radiator panel. If you look close in front of the radiator, I've installed a bug screen to protect the fins of the radiator and Intercooler. It hasn't affected cooling at all, and the fins aren't smushed over from stones. It can be removed if desired, but I would keep it on. You will also see a reversed-stamped VIN on the body next to the driver headlight that matches the vehicle VIN. This will prove that the car is a true GLHS and not a clone. I've modified the backer plate under the hood vent. Originally it was completely blocked off by Shelby. However, I felt it was important to relieve underhood heat when the engine was shut off, so I made and installed an aluminum scoop which helped to vent the heat while funneling rain water away from the motor. It just made sense. The sunroof can be raised, or removed and stored in the trunk, and does not leak.


 


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1987 Shelby Charger GLHS #477 - FOR SALE BY OWNER - Interior driver-side - October, 2012
IF INTERESTED, PLEASE EMAIL ME AT 1987chargerglhs477@gmail.com SEE PICTURES AT http://1987chargerglhs477.wordpress.com/ I pointed out a scuff line on the driver's window tint that was caused by the inside felt window guide. It didn't scratch the glass. The aftermarket tint is applied on the driver-side windows, the passenger-side windows and the rear hatch. It is not too dark, has good visibility at night, and no wrinkle spots or sun fading. This is a good quality tint and appears to be professionally installed. No rust under the doors, and the door hinge pins are very secure. The door weatherstrip has come loose for about 2 feet on the bottom of the driver's door. It is intact, not damaged and can possibly be glued back on or completely replaced if desired. Carpets are 95% clean, no missing patches or ripped piles. Just one small stain that appear to be from boots, and can probably be cleaned using a good carpet cleaner. I always used the original Mopar floor mats, which are in real good condition and are included. Clean non-smoking interior. Seats are 95% and work as they should, just like everything else. I had seat covers on them since Day 2. Momo leather shift knob is 98% and the leather wrapped steering wheel is 95%. Only 3 small surface scuffs on the wheel, but both the steering wheel and the shift knob are nice and black with no dry rot whatsoever. I replaced the original radio for a Chrysler Infinity from a 1989 Lebaron turbo 2.5, and it was a simple swap. Same connectors I believe. It sounds so much better than stock, but I will also include the stock radio with the sale. Previous owner had an expensive stereo in it which he removed before selling it to me. You will see Dynamat on the trunk floor and spare wheel compartment because he had a speaker back there. Even the glovebox door strap is intact! The AutoMeter Boost gauge will stay with the car and works excellent. The needle does not flutter since I think it is a liquid-filled gauge. It should light up with the instrument panel but I think the bulb is burned out. All other interior lights work as they should. I removed the Boost gauge that the previous owner installed because it was on the A-pillar and forced you to take your eyes off the road. Also, I installed this so that it could be easily unplugged and stowed in the glovebox to avoid theft. I didn't cut or drill any holes during installation and it can be easily removed. The sun visors stay put. There are a few areas of the headliner that are beginning to settle. Nothing major, can possibly be fixed with a spray adhesive.





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1987 Shelby Charger GLHS #477 - Engine Running (part 2) - FOR SALE BY OWNER - October, 2012
IF INTERESTED, PLEASE EMAIL ME AT 1987chargerglhs477@gmail.com SEE PICTURES AT http://1987chargerglhs477.wordpress.com/ No squeaky belts. I've always used Mobil 15w50 or 20w50 full synthetic oil and the Fram PH3512 oil filter. Changed twice a year - coming out of storage and mid way through the season. You can hear the cooling fan running. It comes on as it should and quickly cools down the engine. The instrument cluster gauges all work and indicate no problems. I haven't noticed the common idle speed racing trouble that some other 2.2 L owners have experienced, but I occasionally get the problem that the engine doesn't hold idle after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery (I pull the battery before storage). This was a very common problem, don't be alarmed and is only temporary. I thought the idle speed controller was bad but it's not. Simply keep the battery connected, start the engine (from cold) and hold the idle with your foot for a bit until the engine temp reaches normal. Or, if you can drive heal-toe, drive it around town and it will be corrected before you know it. Dodge told me the computer just needs to relearn all of the idle settings. By the way, I saw mid- to upper 20 MPG while enjoying the car and not driving like a pussy foot.





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