Pajero starting problem

2.5TD 1991 starts like this from cold. Any ideas?

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Fixed Rough Idle and Cold Start Mitsubishi
Found out it was fuel pressure loss that caused the long cranks after sitting and odd idling. Didnt cost anything to fix!

Mitsubishi Pajero/ Shogun 2.8 Poor cold starting fix - Heater plugs and relay 4M40T Engine
Now the cold weather is here, I have finally had to fix the poor starting Pajero. It was assumed that new heater plugs would fix the problem as the plugs had not been changed in 20k. It needed plugs but the real problem lied with the relay, I managed to find one in a local breakers for £5. It now starts perfectly! Please subscribe, rate and comment!

Stalling Issue with my Mitsubishi Pajero
***UPDATE*** I fixed the Pajero. For me it was the Injection Pump Front Seal and I had it replaced for about $200 labour, depending on how much your mechanic charges for labour. My Pajero has issues staying running upon the first startup, sometimes it does this multiple times though. It's a 1996 Mitsubish Pajero, 2.8 Litre 4 cyl Diesel engine, 4M40 engine type, automatic transmission. Right Hand Drive - From Japan. Sometimes it stalls out right away, sometimes it takes a minute like it did with this video. Sometimes it will only happen once, sometimes it happens multiple times. Usually it will not die out once the engine has been warmed up and been running for a bit, though I've had the engine die out like this while doing 100km/h on the highway. I know it's coming because the engine RPM slowly starts to go down and has pretty much ZERO throttle response. If you know what causes this type of stalling, please let me know! Sorry the video is sideways, I don't know why it ended up like that - it looked fine on my phone!! It doesn't really matter though, the point still gets across.

Starter Motor Troubleshooting Tips DIY - How to diagnose starter problems
Video to show how to trouble shoot a starter motor when it won't start the car. Provides a procedure to follow to diagnose starter motor problems. One measurement I didn't have time to add was to verify the solenoid operation by measuring the voltage drop across it while triggered. When you turn the key to START and you get 12V on the trigger wire, put one volt meter probe on the big silver solenoid battery cable nut . Put the other volt meter probe on the lower black solenoid nut attached to the braided wire going to the motor. When triggered, you should see less than 0.1V between the two cable nuts on the solenoid. If you measure more than this then the solenoid electrical contacts inside are pitted or worn out and this is preventing enough current from flowing in the starter to make strong enough torque to turn the engine. Instead of turning the engine you will only hear a clicking noise when turning the key. Battery Voltage - %Charged 12.6V 100% 12.4V 75% 12.2V 50% Allowable Voltage Drop in the starter circuit 0.2V from battery +ve lug to starter solenoid silver nut. 0.1V from solenoid sliver nut to braided strap on starter body 0.2V from battery -ve lug to starter body metal.