1952 Mercury KH-7 KH7 Cruiser
Just got back from Mississauga after picking up my new motor, shot a vid.
KH7 History- Mercury racing outboards back in the 50's known as the KG7H/Q
Hurricane were the motor to beat. They were 10hp motors knows as the
"green top" motors, if you don't know much about Mercury's they put out
more like 16+ horsepower, they were the
sleeper motor of the day. The last production motor to have the Hurricane
20 CI powerhead with the integral gas tank was the KH7 Cruiser. Only built
in 1952 it was knows as the "transition motor". Features on the KH7 such as
forward , neutral and reverse as well as a twist grip throttle were not
found on the KG7. It was Mercury's plan to put these features on the 1951
version of the KG7 but were late in production so they included it on the
1952 model and renamed it the KH-7. The 1953 Model was the Mercury Mark 15
which used a remote fuel tank and included all the other features as the
KH-7. IMO this motor is relatively rare, research shows only 10,000 were
produced. This particular model was purchased from a collector in Ontario.
He bought it from a collector in the US. It has the factory lower unit
without the drill modification, does not have a telltale hole drilled in
the block like so many others and has the matching powerhead with lead plug
First Run with Seven Marine 557 hp Outboard
For more videos and boat reviews, visit Boats.com.
Watch 7 Marine 557 Ready for Production:
Boats.com Outboard Expert Charles Plueddeman takes us on a test run with
the largest outboard motor ever built, Seven Marine's 557hp (that's 557 horsepower).
1957 Mercury Mark 10
I run my 1957 Mercury Mark 10 on my 1968 Montgomery Ward Sea King.
Motor details: Twin cylinder (alternate firing order),
forward-neutral-reverse shifting and throttle in the tiller handle,
trolling lever, 10hp @ 4,000 rpm, max 5,000 rpm, adjustable friction
co-pilot, vacuum fuel pump, two prop choices (two and three-blade).
Motor is original except for some assorted gaskets, fuel line, impeller,
tank hose and primer bulb, and fuel pump check valves.
The boat, named "Uncle Herbie" for my great-uncle, was purchased from a
friend for $150 and has a newly painted and textured floor, fuel tank
frame, reinforced and improved transom, and painted seats with no-sink foam
1949 Mercury KF7 Super 10 Lightning
If you like this video please vote for it in the Mercury Films Festival!
This Mercury KF7 Lightning has been completely rebuilt and has about 5
hours on it.The water was a little rough due to some wakeboarders, so it
was difficult to run at full throttle for an extended period.
The Most Common Outboard Engine Issues: Fuel Systems and Flushing
For more how to videos, visit www.boats.com.
Visit our boats.com How-To library, and you'll notice that a lot of the
topics relate to outboard engines. This shouldn't be a surprise, since
outboards have been growing in popularity for many years now. So we decided
to ask Chris Breeden, the service manager at Norfolk Marine and a Yamaha
Master Tech, which outboard problem he saw with the most regularity.
Chris's first answer came without hesitation: fuel systems. Thanks to
modern ethanol issues, fuel systems can be finickier than ever. According
to Chris, the first step in maintaining your fuel system is the use of a 10
micron fuel filter/water separator. Secondly, he notes that adding a fuel
stabilizer to the tank each and every time you fill up is a must. And
particularly on smaller, carbureted motors, the fuel system should be
drained down every time the boat will sit unused for more than a few days
at a time.
The first step in this process is to start the engine, and disconnect the
fuel line. Then let the engine idle until it runs out of fuel. Next, place
a rag under the carburetor and open up the carb drain screw. Once all the
remaining fuel has drained away, the engine can sit for several months
without any issues. Making sure the fuel in your tank stays good is, of
course, a separate issue (for more information on long-term fuel storage,
read Ethanol Winterizing Tips).
The next most common problem Chris sees is damage due to saltwater use
without freshwater flushing. Corrosion and salt build up, anodes melt away,
scaling clogs passages and gets into places it doesn't belong, and then
you're left with major damage and a major repair bill. In fact, Chris
showed us the inside of an outboard that hadn't been flushed regularly and
it was a mess—to the tune of thousands of dollars in repair bills.