Drag Racing 1/4 Mile times 0-60 Dyno Fast Cars Muscle Cars

How to adjust your chain

I show you how to adjust your chain


 


More Videos...


How To Adjust Your Motorcycle Chain
CanyonChasers use their venerable SV650 to walk you through the process of adjusting a motorcycle chain and ensuring that the rear wheel is properly aligned so that you'll get the most life out of your chain and sprockets.





Chain/Sprockets Remove & Replace on a Honda VLX 600
In our first how-to video, we'll show you the basics to changing the chain and sprockets on Steve's Honda VLX 600. Link to full Cyclum Insanus Episode 1 video: http://youtu.be/4-R9RDY-jTE Twitter: @cycluminsanus - http://twitter.com/cycluminsanus Email: cycluminsanus@gmail.com Music is used under license by FreeStockMusic.com http://www.freestockmusic.com/license-agreement/





How to Clean Motorcycle Chain - Lubricate a Motorcycle Chain
If you have any further questions on this video, please feel free to ask them below. Cleaning and lubricating a motorcycle chain not only extends the life of those parts, but it maintains drive efficiency. In other words, it ensures your bike keeps going as fast as it was designed to. In this video, we'll demonstrate how to quickly and easily clean your motorcycle chain and then lubricate it. See the full article at TheRideAdvice.com at http://therideadvice.com/clean-lubricate-motorcycle-chain/ Cleaning and lubricating a motorcycle chain is one of the easiest ways to dip your feet into bike maintenance. And while with modern chains such as the O-ring and X-ring chain, lubrication is provided by grease sealed into the working area between the O-rings, you still need to lubricate the areas of the chain – the parts that are exposed to the environment and make contact with front and rear sprockets of your bike. Some will argue that given the cost to replace both a bike chain and sprockets, it isn’t worth the money on cleaning and lubrication products, nor the time to apply them. To a degree, this is true. It certainly isn’t as important to maintain your chain and sprockets nearly as much as say, ensuring your front brake pads are in top order or that you have enough pressure in your tires. But nevertheless, by cleaning and lubricating your chain you will decrease friction and heat on it which will not only extend chain and sprocket life, but improve the efficiency of the drive too. That means better bike performance and surely that is worth some time and money? If you are going to do this, you’re really going to want a rear stand. Yes, it can be done without one, but the only way to do it is by moving the bike forwards (or backwards) to rotate the chain which is a time consuming process. Cleaning the Chain Regardless of what product you use or what method you employ to clean your chain, it’s best to warm it up first by going for a 10 to 15 minute ride. This will make it much easier to get rid of the grime and grit that will have accumulated on your chain after only a few hundred miles (or less). When applying cleaning product to a chain, avoid any solvents. Between the inner and outer side plates of the chain is rubber and while it’s hardy, you will shorten your chains life with products that are designed to dissolve things. Kerosene (or Paraffin as it’s called in some parts of the world) is fine and generally very cheap to buy. If you really want to go all out, you can purchase a specially formulated motorcycle chain cleaner, such as Motul Chain Clean or Motorex Chain Clean. They’re a little more expensive than straight kerosene, probably only make cleaning the chain slightly easier, but come in a handy aerosol can. Whatever product you choose, cleaning is just a simple matter of applying the solution and if it’s particularly dirty, use a brush to scrub whatever else remains. A toothbrush will do the job, but a grunge brush will be much more effective (and not much more expensive, either). Place some rags or cardboard behind the chain where you’re spraying and scrubbing to prevent the cleaning liquid and the grime from getting on other parts of your bike. Once you’ve finished cleaning the chain, let it sit for around 10 minutes to allow the cleaning solution to dry. Again, if your chain was particularly dirty, give it a quick spray with the garden hose afterwards. Chain Lubrication It’s recommended that for lubricating your chain you buy a specific lubricant made for motorcycle chains. Many people go for WD-40 because it’s cheap and almost everyone has a can at home. But don’t use it for your chain. It contains petroleum based oils that are corrosive to rubber which your chain contains in-between the side plates. It will also attract more dirt, dust and other particles onto your chain, defeating the purpose of cleaning the chain in the first place. Lastly, it evaporates within a few weeks, meaning you could be riding around with an unlubricated chain which will ensure a short sprocket and chain life. Other reasons to use a proper motorcycle chain lubricant is that in addition to penetrating the chain, it will turn ‘sticky’ so that it doesn’t fling off onto other parts of your bike when you’re riding at 60 mph. Again, products like Motul Street Chain Lube are a good choice and at around $10 for a 10 oz can, it’s not considerably more expensive than WD-40 anyway. When lubricating your chain, you can either be very precise and spray only between the end plates (you’re targeting the rubber between each plate) and on the rollers, or spray the thing like it’s a cockroach you’re trying to drown. Either way works, it’s just up to you whether you want to be slow and precise, thus reducing the amount of lubricant you use and saving a bit of money in the long term.





Ducatitech.com "HowTo" Adjust your Valves (Part 1)
Part 1: Learn how to adjust the valves of your Ducati. A series of DIY Ducati Maintenance Videos by Ducatitech.com. This video applies to all 2 Valve Ducatis.





Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?




Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

1967 Plymouth GTX : 10.460 @ 122.630
Bob, Engine: 446, Tires: Hossier


2000 Ford Crown Victoria LX: 10.582 @ 127.710
Rich, Engine: 4.6 2v, Turbos: 76mm Tires: 295-50-16's


1968 Plymouth GTX : 11.309 @ 122.050
Jake France, Engine: 500,


2003 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport Vortech Supercharger: 11.459 @ 119.650
T. Metzger, Engine: 4.6 DOHC Intech V8, Supercharger: Vortech s-trim Turbos: n/a Tires: BFG drag radials (track)


2010 Jaguar XFR : 11.736 @ 119.400
Fadhel Abbass, Engine: 5.0, Supercharger: Supercharger Tires: Michelin Supersport


2010 Jaguar XFR XF-R: 11.950 @ 119.040
Billy Renkart,


1968 Plymouth GTX : 12.530 @ 108.000
Jerry A. Wilson, Engine: 440 c.i., Tires: firestone 10


2010 Jaguar XFR : 12.610 @ 115.330
NA, Engine: V8 Supercharged: 510HP, Tires: Dunlop SP Sport Maxx


2010 Jaguar XFR : 12.710 @ 115.220
NA, Engine: V8 Supercharged 510HP,


2005 Ford Crown Victoria CVPI: 12.830 @ 105.500
Grant Wollam, Engine: stock teksid block,


1999 Ford Crown Victoria Base with Nitrous: 12.955 @ 103.730
Andy, Engine: 4.6l PI '00 Mustang GT, Tires: 26x10.5 ET Streets


2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport: 13.190 @ 104.300
Chris Rudgell, Engine: 4.6 2V N/A, Tires: Nitto


1989 Ford Crown Victoria LX: 13.211 @ 104.550
Milo S, Engine: Ford 393W (351W stroker), Tires: F: stock size, R: BFG drag radial 275/50


2002 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport N/A: 13.310 @ 101.130
Chris Ridgell, Engine: 4.6, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: N/A Tires: NITTO 555R


2001 Ford Crown Victoria police inteceptor: 13.410 @ 99.860
Russ, Engine: Forged Higher compression 4.6L, Tires: 26x10.5 rear and 26x5 fronts


1999 Ford Crown Victoria P71: 13.540 @ 99.980
Dan, Engine: PI 4.6L V8, Tires: Fronts Stock, Rear's MT's ET Street Drag Radials


1970 Plymouth GTX : 13.620 @ 101.000
mario, Engine: 440, Tires: 275/60/15


2003 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor ZEX Nitrous: 13.644 @ 101.790
Cody Allison, Engine: 4.6L SOHC, Tires: stock


1998 Ford Crown Victoria CVPI: 13.648 @ 98.640
Elmer Williams, Engine: 281,


2001 Ford Crown Victoria LX Sport: 13.800 @ 99.000
T.Stafne, Engine: 4.6L 2V SOHC, Supercharger: Eaton M90S Tires: 255/50/16


 


©2015 DragTimes - Disclaimer - Contact Us