4g63's are famous for hosing crankshaft thrust bearings. This video illustrates the process of how to check the thrust bearing clearance whether the motor's in the car or not. Of course in my case the motor's on a stand for this video. Lucky for me!
In cases where the engine is still in the car, the same procedures can be used so long as the indicator is attached to the engine block. The plunger can be set up touching either the inside of the crank pulley or by removing the clutch cover plate and contacting the flywheel.
What the thrust bearing does, is prevent the crankshaft from having lateral movement in the main bearings. If a crankshaft develops excessive movement here, clutch engagement and hydraulic problems will begin showing up, followed shortly thereafter by catastrophic failure of main bearings, rod bearings, connecting rod failures, oil pressure problems, or even broken blocks, crankshafts and rods in extreme cases. It's important that every 4g63 turbo engine is within spec on this measurement.
When the crankshaft aggressively wears through the thrust bearing developing lateral play, this is called "crankwalk". On some block castings, replacing the bearings will NOT fix the problem. An engine block that is prone to crankwalking can not be fixed. The only option in these cases is to replace the shortblock and rotating assembly with new or used parts that are stronger than the one you've unfortunately encountered. For the 2g guys, the best option for repairing this problem is to remove the 7-bolt turbo shortblock your car came with and replace it with a 6-bolt from a 89-92.5 production date turbo DSM. Non-turbo blocks CAN be used; however, the block will not have oil squirters that aim towards the back of the pistons. That stream of oil aides lubrication to the wrist pins, cylinder bores, and somewhat cools the pistons. All good things on a turbo setup. Aside from that difference, there are no other differences between the non-turbo and turbo blocks. The pistons and thus the compression ratios are different, but that's it. Oil squirters can be machined into the main galleries of a non-turbo block, but it's more trouble than it's worth unless you can't find a turbo block.
There are tons of differing theories about what causes crankwalk. Nearly all of them are plausible and logical arguments. I will not get into those debates in this video in order to focus on procedures for testing and replacement. Please feel free to google "crankwalk 4g63" and read the volumes of information available already. The arguments and gathered data are older than the Eclipse itself and in abundant supply on the internets. Magnus, RRE, VFAQ, and many other parts vendors have lengthy write-ups on their own research and development. The bottom line is that the 6-bolt shortblocks are LESS likely to suffer from this.
Next time you see someone with a video that looks like it was shot with a potato asking "does this sound like crankwalk", you can send them this video. There's a reason for every noise, rather than focus on the sound, focus on eliminating the real problem. KNOW if it's out of spec.
Blueprint 103 - Connecting Rods
Connecting rods are the crux of the engine. They're responsible for
carrying the force of the explosions that occur in the combustion chamber
and using it to turn the crankshaft. Oil clearance specifications of the
"big end" and "small end" are crucial to maintaining consistent oil
In this video we take 3 measurements:
Rod Journal (also called Crank Pin) Diameters
"Big End" Bore diameter
Using the Journal diameters and the "Big End" Bores, you can calculate your
oil clearances of each bearing. The process is illustrated here. Anyone
rebuilding an engine who doesn't know its history should check all of these
clearances whether or not they're re-using the rods. If the crank,
bearings or connecting rods are going to be replaced, it's imperative that
you measure the new parts as well to ensure they're in spec.
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 engine's
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
Hyundai Assembly 4 - Balancing Rods
I edited this video to its finished state, and RojoDelChocolate handed me a
track with no collaboration that was the right length and rhythm. I
literally did nothing to the video once the audio track was dropped in, and
that's just how it went. I can't believe it. It's like when you're
pumping gas into a Ford F150 full-blast and release the pump handle to stop
right on $80.00 even. He's got more musical talent in his pinky fingernail
than I have mechanical ability in my spleen, appendix and tonsils combined.
Thank you RojoDelChocolate.
Here I'm cleaning up the fly cuts, balancing the piston and rod assemblies
and preparing to double-check my valve clearance. I had to start by
cleaning up and re-lubricating every part that was removed to prevent
contamination of the assembly. This is the tedious part of doing the job
We learned that this whole engine assembly was pretty far-gone in previous
videos, way past its service limits, so making it fit and work again takes
extensive testing, machining, and re-testing to ensure all of the parts
fit. This is likely the most challenging build I will perform on any car
in my driveway. It has been so far. But because I have not demonstrated
the basics of engine balancing beyond what a machine shop has to do to zero
balance a flat-plane crankshaft, I thought I'd give it its own video right
here with one of the test assemblies.
When you balance rods by themselves, you balance the big-end and the
pin-bore separately. You get weights of both ends of the rod using a jig
and a process that I don't demonstrate in this video. The reason you do
this is because the position of the weight behaves differently relative to
its distance from the crankshaft pin. Weight on the big end has less of an
effect than if there's extra weight on the pin bore. The best balanced
engines have every part of the piston and rod assemblies balanced
separately within .1 grams using the method I just described, and not the
method shown in this video.
The method shown here involves weighing ALL of the piston and rod assembly
components together, and then taking out the difference just on the casting
lines of the connecting rod. They were already off-balance and had never
been balanced before. This is an improvement, not perfection. It's still
something this engine needed to have done. I'm not using the
big-end/small-end method here because these pistons are pressed-on and if I
try to remove them from the rod, it will shatter the piston skirts. No
thank you. I'm not replacing these pistons.
The reason I grind down the casting lines is because it's weight is in a
neutral territory, extending from the big end to the small end. It's
easier to take an even amount off when you grind across the entire length
of the rods. This method leaves a lot up to assumption as there's no way
to determine which end of the rod is heavier, or if the weight is in a
wrist pin or piston. All this does is ensure the crankshaft is spinning an
even amount of weight on all 4 of its rod journals. Grams of weight turn
into pounds of force at idle speeds. My goal is to remove that vibration
at any and all rotations per minute if I can. So I make them all the same
within 1.0 grams of their combined weight.
If you're assembling and balancing all NEW parts, not parts that have worn
together and need to go back in the same holes... you will have to balance
the individual parts and pieces. This is the poor man's method. Even with
the new parts you still do the poor man's method once you're done balancing
the individual parts and assemble them, but sometimes when you're lucky
with the new parts, you can just swap around the rods, pins and fasteners
to balance the weights on each assembly and not have to grind anything at
all. That's awfully nice when that happens. You know the Hyundai won't
let me get away with that.
Removing stress risers might help strengthen the rods, but it's not what
I'm after here or else I would have removed the whole casting line from all
of them. These rods should be fine for my goals. My goal is to remove
just enough from all of the fatter rods (weight wise) to match the lightest
Balancing an inline 4 engine with a flat-plane crank is easy if you have
already balanced the crankshaft. This crank was already balanced for the
GSX motor on a previous occasion. It's zero'd out. In order to balance
the rotating assembly, all you do is make the piston and rod assemblies
weigh identically to its neighbors. Just 3 grams of weight can produce
over a hundred pounds of lateral forces at red-line so this is an aspect of
engine building that you should not overlook. All you need to do is get
all of them within 1 gram. The scale I'm using measures whole grams, so
that's all I can do anyway. This method is acceptable for balancing a
rotating assembly as long as you're smart about how to remove the weight.
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission
failure. This time I installed some new goodies...
Tubular Exhaust Header
Magnus Intake Manifold
Magnus heat barrier gasket
Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body
Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal
-6AN turbo coolant lines
ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners
new timing belt
new accessory belts
ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts
FIC -8AN fuel rail
deleted breather port
added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover
polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal
JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate
new Chrysler coils
Glyptal Application Process
In this video I detail the application process of a popular crankcase
coating... that is... if crankcase coatings are actually popular.
In this video, 98 coffee filters gave up the ghost. 238 q-tips paid the
ultimate sacrifice. Almost a dozen brushes were executed, and 3 aerosol
caps dispatched to their graves. Also, during the battle, several Dremel
tools were maimed, one severely.
Look, I'm doing everything I can to liven this topic up and make it
interesting. Cleaning and painting are about the least interesting things
someone else can watch. It's absolutely painful to edit, I know that much.
It's not so bad for the guy doing the actual painting, but I'm doing my
best to keep people's attention.
This is a full month's work in a half hour. I had to space the job out
because of my filming environment and the toxicity of materials I was
working with. Take my warnings and advice in the video seriously. They're
the words of someone who's done the job. They help set expectations.
The most useful thing I can do is post links to other discussions that have
already occurred, and to make room for places where people have posted
their experience with failures of engine coatings. Despite my searching, I
can not find any pictures or video. I found ONE plausible description of
the kind of failure that can occur with improper application, but it was
still a third-hand report. There are fans of this product posting in these
threads. If you are considering this treatment, WEIGH THE PROS & CONS FOR
YOUR BUILD, and YOUR HEALTH. Don't do this just because I did it.
So until anyone provides photo or video evidence, here are the links to
threads where it was discussed. This google search is mean. It's too
direct and to-the-point. It might hurt somebody's feelings? Yes, I've
read them all.
Blueprint 104 - The Crankshaft
It's important to know what you've got even before dealing with the
machinist. If you want to inspect a crankshaft, this is how you do it. I
detail the process of removing the crank and what to measure. All
specifications in this video are illustrated with a 6-bolt 4g63 turbo block, but are all actually the same for
7-bolt engines with the exception of the rod widths.
Blueprint 107 - piston-to-cylinder wall clearance
This video covers how easy it is to calculate piston-to-cylinder wall
clearance. It's too easy. This is important because too loose of a gap
and the rings won't seal properly. Too tight and the pistons will scuff
the cylinder walls, ruining the bores.
We've touched on thermal expansion several times now, and the reason it
keeps coming up is because turbo engines
achieve much higher cylinder pressures, and therefore generate more heat
than a normally aspirated combustion chamber experiences. This affects the
growth of the metal parts when they're at operating temperatures, so turbo pistons need more cylinder wall
clearance to account for this.
I will cover the ring grooves, compression and oil rings in a 200-series
video while assembling this engine with new pistons. For now, these will
just be saved for a rainy day. After all, I have a stock bore stock 4g63
engine in the Colt.
Cylinder Head 108 - 4g63 Rockers
Cleaning and inspection of 4g63 rocker arms. Part 8 of the head series,
and probably the easiest one yet to either watch or perform. No precision
measurements required, no disassembly or special tools required. If you've
got an air compressor and a pick, and a little bit of patience, you can do
this part of the job without expending any major effort.
This is one of those things that during the course of your build, you can
do unconsciously. You just need to soak them, poke them, and inspect them.
In this video I show you how.
Some parts of the wheel Mitsubishi didn't want to re-invent each time they
developed a new motor. These rocker arms are prevalent in millions of
Mitsubishi, Plymouth, Chrysler, Dodge, Eagle, Hyundai and even some Kia
engines. A good rule of thumb is... everything with a 4g6x DOHC or 6g72
and 6g74 engine uses these rocker arms. From 4x4's to economy cars, these
parts are everywhere. You just need to know what cars they're in and you
can harvest a full set for a fraction of the cost of one of these things
new. If you watch this video, you'll see how to pick a winner.
Check this link for 6g7x donor cars.
I didn't really want to see any of my rockers damaged, but really I'm lucky
some were because it gave me an opportunity to show you some bad ones.
Mine suffered from oil starvation caused by rod bearing failures. That
loss of oil pressure in addition to oil passages being blocked quickly took
a toll. Just 5000 miles earlier I changed to 3g lifters and they were all
fine, so this happened quickly. HKS 264/272 cams didn't help anything once
the oil supply was compromised, but this was discovered before a more
expensive failure in the valvetrain could develop.
Remember that sharing is caring. Hit the like and subscribe buttons
because YouTube shows all of us a little more love when you do. :)
Many of you have seen this one before. I apologize if bringing it back
Domestickilla gave me a crankshaft, and it's a nice one that I want to
clean up and use again. You'll be seeing a lot of it and because of this,
this video deserves to be here. I fixed what I broke, and this was my
In this video Ballos Precision Machine demonstrates magnetic dye penetrant
testing, crankshaft polishing and inspecting the balance of a "butchered"
4g63 6-bolt crankshaft.
How to build a 4g63 Coil On Plug Assembly
This is just like all other do it yourself projects.
1) Buy parts that make doing the job easiest for you. 2) Put the stuff
together. 3) Install it.
No really, I used the JMFabrications Coil Plate, ordered all new UF269
Chrysler coils and wiring from Toyota. This video is intended to
compliment thread #290665 at DSMTuners dot com which contains wiring
diagrams and part numbers for these specific products.
The only thing I did different was use 3/16" grommets in the harness holes
rather than elongating them to prevent wire chaffing. I went a little
overboard with the convoluted tubing, but it looks fantastic.
you can get coils from Chrysler models...
2003-2003 300M PRO-AM
2002-2003 300M SPECIAL
2002-2003 CONCORDE LIMITED
2002-2003 CONCORDE LXI
2000-2000 INTREPID ES
2000-2002 INTREPID R/T
2002-2003 INTREPID SE
2003-2003 INTREPID SXT
What isn't covered in that thread is the necessity of a capacitive
discharge system. In order for this to be any kind of upgrade a CDI is
required. The factory coil pack on these cars is good for 30+ PSI.
How to Assemble a Chevy Engine Part 1
This video will show you how to assemble a Chevy engine (or any engine)
starting from the basic block. It goes through installing the crankshaft,
checking for the right clearences using plastic gage, installing the rings
on the pistons, installling the piston in the block, checking the rod
bearing clearence, torquing all the bolts to the collect specifications,
installing the rear main seal, and demonstrating how the motor works from
the bottom view and top view.
Cylinder Head 104 - Remove Valves & Springs
Just one of many ways to remove valves from a cylinder head. I haven't
seen a valve compressor like this one on YouTube yet. I know it's nobody
makes them like this, because this one is a custom hack job specifically
for 4g63 heads... but it's extremely effective and easy to use.
Since I don't own a valve grinder, valve spring pressure testers (for
installed height measurement), or valve seat grinding stones... there are
several services I'm unable to perform myself. But since I can get the
head disassembled to this state, it would be easier and cheaper for me to
have them serviced by someone who does.
Valve grinding machine time is cheaper if they don't have to tear down the
head. You can lap them in yourself, but if the seat's in really bad shape,
it will require attention to allow any of those efforts to be worthwhile.
Valve seat grinding if necessary needs to be done with the proper tools,
and if the seats must be replaced, then it can get expensive. Usually
$20-ish a hole. Sometimes an oversized bore can be cut into a factory
seat. I'm ordering a set of valves to see if that's possible.