There's a history both behind this car, and the friendship with this person. I met him 10 years ago following a random conversation that I injected myself into between 2 strangers at an auto parts store. I had just bought a '92 Civic CX with crap compression and was picking up some service parts to keep it limping and useful while I built my DSM. I overheard him mention "4g63" to somebody as I walked by, so I turned around and introduced myself without any clue that he was one of the "realest" people I've ever known.
What occurred for me in the following discussion was an awakening on my part. He led me to an adjacent parking lot where an un-assuming Hyundai Elantra sat. This isn't the one, but is one of many factory cars that he's swapped a 4g63 into. What he managed to get through my big thick skull was there were lots of great inconspicuous chassis that you can simply bolt a 4g63 into. Over time it became evident where you can find lots of "racing" parts, from factory equipment on various mini-vans, station wagons, much of the Hyundai line-up from '92-'95. During the "DSM Years", there were plenty of cars from other manufacturers that made dynamite donors, and this sparked my ability to be frugal in some of my ventures.
If you ever meet Jamie, expect his knowledge of car parts both inside and outside the realm of Mitsubishi to be as unassuming on the surface as the car in this video. He has true talent. Finds peace and happiness in a junkyard full of decay, and skills that create useful high-performance art from what many consider rubbish. Because he's already taken time walking around with parts from one car and bolting them on to others to see if they'll fit, worked as a machinist's apprentice rebuilding everything under the sun, and done the tech work to analyze failures in all of it, he's often my go-to guy for advice when things aren't working correctly. Many times he's come through for me in a pinch and shed light on something I didn't understand. That goes both for examples in the automotive domain, and in real life when I've hit hard times. Many of my parts for the Colt came from his past builds on various Mitsubishis and Hyundais. In fact... many of my Colt parts have come from this very car.
He gave this chassis to somebody, and they returned it later because life didn't let them finish it. I don't think it took even a month once he put his mind to working on it to get it in this state, and it was motorless-and-in-pieces. I can't wait to see these parts get bolted on this car. I think we'll have a new textbook definition of sleeper when he's done.
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
More ebay 20g drag passes
Trolled by mother nature.
I thought plugging in my o2 sensor might make a difference. Scarily that's
not how things worked out. My fuel trims are all jacked up with or without
it. Airflow counts are down. I have more to do to this thing, but in an
effort to keep things real, I'm uploading what happened and what I found in
The PRIMARY reason for racing is development of both self and your
equipment. If your goal is to have an awesome street car, you can't
fully-achieve that goal without rigorous testing where numbers and facts
are clearly evident. You JUST CAN'T do that on the STREET. There are no
numbers on the street, no measurement of a baseline nor any improvements
you might make. There's no measurement of a drivers' skill outside of,
"did you win or didn't you?"
I didn't come to the track with the expectation of MY driving needing to be
improved. I was simply getting numbers, so I wasn't a tree-nazi like I was
in the Friday Night No-Lift-To-Shift video. There was more incentive for
me to just not red-light and see what she'll do.
This evening I didn't feel like the track crew were on their A-game.
Sometimes they held staged cars for an inordinately long period of time...
which once I'm staged, I'm on the rev limiter, and once they left me there
awaiting the tree for over 20 seconds, heating my car up and leaving me
disadvantaged out of the hole. Other times they treated the starting
lanes, dried off my opponent's side but not mine, not giving instruction to
hold or wait. In fact, one guy was signaling me forward while another crew
member was standing in front of my car spraying the lane. What do you
expect for only $15? I'm grateful for them, but the communication could
stand improvement over what I saw tonight.
Perhaps I'm just a bit miffed with my setup and looking for someone else to
blame? The track officials certainly don't deserve any for how it ran this
Wheels, Plastidip and Mickeys
What starts as an innocent venture into wheel painting ends in a sticky,
sticky episode of badassery.
Plastidip is spray-on rubber. This is the first time I've ever worked with
My review: It comes in colors but my favorite is black. It's good stuff.
What I did should have had me spraying it on last... because mounting tires
will remove it from a wheel. Most people doing this painted their wheels
while tires were mounted. This is what happens when you don't. So what?
It's spray-on rubber. Spray on some more and you're good.
If you want the BEST results with it (since it can be expensive in some
regions), allow no less than 10 minutes between coats, and spray LIGHT
COATS. That's capitalized because squeezing out a light coat of spray-on
rubber is much easier said than done. It's like lightly-spraying Silly
String, or setting your fire extinguisher to "low". Or trying to bathe in
a waterfall with good intentions, but getting knocked on your ass by the
force of falling water instead. I'm amazed at how easy a product like this
is to work with in concept. It sprays differently than paint, but its
application is easily mastered once you get the feel for it. I give it...
d (ツ) b
4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination
on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video
will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video
of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in
the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by
combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater
degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft
belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When
that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft,
wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it
can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over
10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and
heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have
balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at
home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy
punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not
enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil
filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's
regulated at 15 PSI.
2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission
failure. This time I installed some new goodies...
Tubular Exhaust Header
Magnus Intake Manifold
Magnus heat barrier gasket
Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body
Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal
-6AN turbo coolant lines
ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners
new timing belt
new accessory belts
ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts
FIC -8AN fuel rail
deleted breather port
added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover
polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal
JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate
new Chrysler coils
Jamie's Boosted Hyundai Elantra (Oct '11)
This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A
few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under
10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to
this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video)
was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a
box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra
gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build
a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old
stock DSM turbo parts including a worked
14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video
of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the
internals have changed.
The Zero F**ks Given RX7 - /TUNED
Would you drive a car built by a teenager in his parents driveway with no
safety features whatsoever? We did, and now we'll tell you why this ugly
RX7 is so brilliant.
2g 7-bolt 4g63 Engine Removal & Disassembly
Tearing down the GSX to see what broke, and what I need to buy. Sitting
for a year and letting the battery drain took a toll on the polished
finish... and it looks like a piece of 4th gear wanted to take a look at
the outside world. Holy transmission case, and it's off to TRE to see
what's salvageable. Looks like the clutch could stand to be replaced, too.
Timing belt has taken some abuse from the higher rev limit and I was
expecting that. EGT probe is fried and I don't even care. Since I'm
running DSMlink and can log Boost,
I'm removing all my gauges anyway. Front case seal (freeze plug) is
leaking a tad, and the crank seal shows signs of excessive crankcase
pressure. I'm going to make some changes... I've got a lot of other
tricks up my sleeve, so stay tuned.
4g63 Coil On Plug 201
This is a continuation from my earlier coil-on-plug how-to video. I was
troubleshooting an ignition problem where I couldn't Boost over 14 PSI without misfiring or
backfiring despite having an ignition amplifier, and this is what worked to
completely resolve my troubles.
There's lots of information about what parts work well on a 4g63 (and their
relevance) as well as lots of reports about people having ignition problems
once they're installed. I noticed that there's not really any instruction
available regarding ideal methods for trimming the longer Chrysler boot
down to the size and shape for a 4g63 setup. Some of this could be due to
the depth of various COP mounting plates, but this video is intended as an
effort to help fill that void regardless of why.
If the boots are not trimmed properly, then as combustion chamber pressure
increases, the possibility of the spark arcing from the plug into the plug
well is possible. This can happen on improperly insulated plugs, or as a
result of an old worn boot. The solution if your coil resistance is
good... is to run down to NAPA and buy yourself a set of new boots. They
come with new springs. They just need to fully-sleeve the spark plug's
ceramic insulator, and make good electrical contact internally. If air can
get in and out, so can spark.
FYI: When inspecting older worn-out boots, wherever spark leaks through
leaves a white spot.
Death of a turbo
Killed the Big16g and it was all my fault. A clamp wasn't bolted on
straight and it died an early death. New Big16g replacement has been
installed for now. Car still runs low 12's.
Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking
about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in
the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He
literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just
Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm
likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater
challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all.
Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never
make good use of any larger of a turbo.
I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to
make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is.
This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful
with that downshift.
First ebay 20g drag passes
I made 2 passes. On the first one, nearly everything that could go wrong
did. But I'm a persistent bastard. I fixed it all, found everybody and then
made this run. It wasn't until after I got home that I realized I had no
in-car video footage of the first run when I broke despite having set it
up... I kicked the alternator belt off no-lift-to-shifting into 4th gear
around 800 feet and coasted to a 13.3 at 82mph against a 10 second Mustang. Overheating with no power
steering I limped it back and put the belt back on, only burning myself 9
times, and then got back out and made this run. The guys in front of us
broke, too. I guess it was contagious? This run is on 93 octane pump
gas. I shouldn't have been in such a hurry. It left me a little
unprepared. You learn things about other things while doing things--is the
best I can explain it. It didn't knock at all, so clearly the new injectors
are working fine... but I didn't take time to burp the coolant system, so
it ran hot. My alternator belt was loose, and it bailed on me. I was
focusing on explaining the video (I deleted that scene from frustration)
rather than putting the car back together, and failed to plug in a very
important sensor. I would have caught it, but didn't get a chance to look
at the logs until I got home. I have to operate so many pieces of equipment
in addition to actually driving that it's very distracting. The guy in
my second race had a beautiful 1967 Dodge Dart, and he was a very good
sport! It was a great race where adrenaline is involved, and I was focused
but wary of whether or not the alternator belt would stay on. I really
appreciate the guys that keep old muscle alive. That car's almost 50 years
old. That's making history right there... He cut a great 60 foot after they
cleaned up the track, but I wish that car didn't break in his lane prior to
his pass if it was a problem for his run. I tried to leave nothing out
and keep it short & sweet. I was lucky to have a track-side cameraman for
the second race. Thanks Taylor! Having that sensor plugged in would have
left me much more confident in the log data and offer a much better
assessment of this turbo, but it is what
it is. Here it is...