There's a history both behind this car, and the friendship with this person. I met him 10 years ago following a random conversation that I injected myself into between 2 strangers at an auto parts store. I had just bought a '92 Civic CX with crap compression and was picking up some service parts to keep it limping and useful while I built my DSM. I overheard him mention "4g63" to somebody as I walked by, so I turned around and introduced myself without any clue that he was one of the "realest" people I've ever known.
What occurred for me in the following discussion was an awakening on my part. He led me to an adjacent parking lot where an un-assuming Hyundai Elantra sat. This isn't the one, but is one of many factory cars that he's swapped a 4g63 into. What he managed to get through my big thick skull was there were lots of great inconspicuous chassis that you can simply bolt a 4g63 into. Over time it became evident where you can find lots of "racing" parts, from factory equipment on various mini-vans, station wagons, much of the Hyundai line-up from '92-'95. During the "DSM Years", there were plenty of cars from other manufacturers that made dynamite donors, and this sparked my ability to be frugal in some of my ventures.
If you ever meet Jamie, expect his knowledge of car parts both inside and outside the realm of Mitsubishi to be as unassuming on the surface as the car in this video. He has true talent. Finds peace and happiness in a junkyard full of decay, and skills that create useful high-performance art from what many consider rubbish. Because he's already taken time walking around with parts from one car and bolting them on to others to see if they'll fit, worked as a machinist's apprentice rebuilding everything under the sun, and done the tech work to analyze failures in all of it, he's often my go-to guy for advice when things aren't working correctly. Many times he's come through for me in a pinch and shed light on something I didn't understand. That goes both for examples in the automotive domain, and in real life when I've hit hard times. Many of my parts for the Colt came from his past builds on various Mitsubishis and Hyundais. In fact... many of my Colt parts have come from this very car.
He gave this chassis to somebody, and they returned it later because life didn't let them finish it. I don't think it took even a month once he put his mind to working on it to get it in this state, and it was motorless-and-in-pieces. I can't wait to see these parts get bolted on this car. I think we'll have a new textbook definition of sleeper when he's done.
More ebay 20g drag passes
Trolled by mother nature.
I thought plugging in my o2 sensor might make a difference. Scarily that's
not how things worked out. My fuel trims are all jacked up with or without
it. Airflow counts are down. I have more to do to this thing, but in an
effort to keep things real, I'm uploading what happened and what I found in
The PRIMARY reason for racing is development of both self and your
equipment. If your goal is to have an awesome street car, you can't
fully-achieve that goal without rigorous testing where numbers and facts
are clearly evident. You JUST CAN'T do that on the STREET. There are no
numbers on the street, no measurement of a baseline nor any improvements
you might make. There's no measurement of a drivers' skill outside of,
"did you win or didn't you?"
I didn't come to the track with the expectation of MY driving needing to be
improved. I was simply getting numbers, so I wasn't a tree-nazi like I was
in the Friday Night No-Lift-To-Shift video. There was more incentive for
me to just not red-light and see what she'll do.
This evening I didn't feel like the track crew were on their A-game.
Sometimes they held staged cars for an inordinately long period of time...
which once I'm staged, I'm on the rev limiter, and once they left me there
awaiting the tree for over 20 seconds, heating my car up and leaving me
disadvantaged out of the hole. Other times they treated the starting
lanes, dried off my opponent's side but not mine, not giving instruction to
hold or wait. In fact, one guy was signaling me forward while another crew
member was standing in front of my car spraying the lane. What do you
expect for only $15? I'm grateful for them, but the communication could
stand improvement over what I saw tonight.
Perhaps I'm just a bit miffed with my setup and looking for someone else to
blame? The track officials certainly don't deserve any for how it ran this
New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car
from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of
scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket
performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by
traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to
stick before encountering this.
More on this build...
The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from
Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from
Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget
was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and
it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video.
I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I
could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid
half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides.
Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the
pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water
pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is
an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore
6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion
chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The
radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk
car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my
150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This
is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because
of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the
chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just
that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when
they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful.
Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be
changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the
plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing
anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have
anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that
way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these
generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to
the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough.
In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the
breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in
the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch
harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil
pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and
this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil
pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a
restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing
lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.
2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission
failure. This time I installed some new goodies...
Tubular Exhaust Header
Magnus Intake Manifold
Magnus heat barrier gasket
Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body
Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal
-6AN turbo coolant lines
ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners
new timing belt
new accessory belts
ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts
FIC -8AN fuel rail
deleted breather port
added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover
polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal
JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate
new Chrysler coils
2g 7-bolt 4g63 Engine Removal & Disassembly
Tearing down the GSX to see what broke, and what I need to buy. Sitting
for a year and letting the battery drain took a toll on the polished
finish... and it looks like a piece of 4th gear wanted to take a look at
the outside world. Holy transmission case, and it's off to TRE to see
what's salvageable. Looks like the clutch could stand to be replaced, too.
Timing belt has taken some abuse from the higher rev limit and I was
expecting that. EGT probe is fried and I don't even care. Since I'm
running DSMlink and can log Boost,
I'm removing all my gauges anyway. Front case seal (freeze plug) is
leaking a tad, and the crank seal shows signs of excessive crankcase
pressure. I'm going to make some changes... I've got a lot of other
tricks up my sleeve, so stay tuned.
Install Clutch in a 1g Turbo DSM swapped Elantra
You guys asked for an update on a different project. I've been working on
the GSX since November and this is one I could squeeze out without getting
in the way of other projects.
TRADE YA needs a clutch. It needs some other things, too, but I'm starting
with the clutch. In this video I stay on point with the
used-or-junkyard-parts build theme. This car doesn't deserve new parts and
I've done all of this before, just never in one video. I need something to
run at the track while I'm waiting for parts, polishing and machining. I'm
closest to having that happening with the Elantra right now so let's get
this over with.
Consider this the cliff notes of the transmission series, and another step
towards making a free car built from used parts run 12's.
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Friday Night "Street" challenge.
Racing trailer queens at Richmond Dragway's so-called "street" event again.
Making a few passes with the Hyundai Elantra to illustrate a point.
Someone asked about timeslips recently and I wanted to show one of the
types of information you can gain from examining what's on it. Information
about yourself, and your car. How well you're driving it, and how well
your equipment is working for you.
I built it up with the current video explaining the 60' time measurement
while installing compound tires. I figured that timing was appropriate
since tires have everything to do with traction and acceleration. The 60'
is all about maximizing acceleration over the 1st 60 feet of the track.
The results of running different 60' times show up differently at the end
of the track. A FWD, RWD and AWD car will exhibit different
characteristics based on contact patches, weight distribution and rotating
mass associated with each setup. But FWD is by far the most challenging to
deal with getting up out of the hole.
Mastering the launch with your car means more at the track than making all
the horsepower in
the world at once. Getting it down takes practice. Here's a quick guide
for how to set your expectations. So if drag racing is your thing...
always be convinced you could do it better, and never stop trying to get
First ebay 20g drag passes
I made 2 passes. On the first one, nearly everything that could go wrong
did. But I'm a persistent bastard. I fixed it all, found everybody and then
made this run. It wasn't until after I got home that I realized I had no
in-car video footage of the first run when I broke despite having set it
up... I kicked the alternator belt off no-lift-to-shifting into 4th gear
around 800 feet and coasted to a 13.3 at 82mph against a 10 second Mustang. Overheating with no power
steering I limped it back and put the belt back on, only burning myself 9
times, and then got back out and made this run. The guys in front of us
broke, too. I guess it was contagious? This run is on 93 octane pump
gas. I shouldn't have been in such a hurry. It left me a little
unprepared. You learn things about other things while doing things--is the
best I can explain it. It didn't knock at all, so clearly the new injectors
are working fine... but I didn't take time to burp the coolant system, so
it ran hot. My alternator belt was loose, and it bailed on me. I was
focusing on explaining the video (I deleted that scene from frustration)
rather than putting the car back together, and failed to plug in a very
important sensor. I would have caught it, but didn't get a chance to look
at the logs until I got home. I have to operate so many pieces of equipment
in addition to actually driving that it's very distracting. The guy in
my second race had a beautiful 1967 Dodge Dart, and he was a very good
sport! It was a great race where adrenaline is involved, and I was focused
but wary of whether or not the alternator belt would stay on. I really
appreciate the guys that keep old muscle alive. That car's almost 50 years
old. That's making history right there... He cut a great 60 foot after they
cleaned up the track, but I wish that car didn't break in his lane prior to
his pass if it was a problem for his run. I tried to leave nothing out
and keep it short & sweet. I was lucky to have a track-side cameraman for
the second race. Thanks Taylor! Having that sensor plugged in would have
left me much more confident in the log data and offer a much better
assessment of this turbo, but it is what
it is. Here it is...
Jamie's Boosted Hyundai Elantra (Oct '11)
This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A
few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under
10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to
this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video)
was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a
box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra
gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build
a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old
stock DSM turbo parts including a worked
14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video
of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the
internals have changed.
4g63 Balance Shaft Elimination - bearing modification
This is the first part of a two part series about balance shaft elimination
on 4g series engines. This video details the bearings, the other video
will cover the front case modifications. I've already got a low-def video
of the front case mods, and I plan to re-shoot that one in HD when I'm in
the assembly phase. It's linked in the video.
The balance shafts are designed to cancel out harmonic vibrations caused by
combustion and the spinning rotating assembly. They may offer a greater
degree of comfort to the driver and passengers, but with that comfort comes
Often, when a 4g63 timing belt gives up, it's because the balance shaft
belt breaks or comes loose and takes the timing belt out with it. When
that happens, it can total your pistons, valves, damage the crankshaft,
wrist pins, timing belt tensioner and crank angle sensor. Basically, it
can total your motor. The balance shafts also have a combined weigh over
10 lbs and both are driven off the timing belt making them additional and
heavy rotating mass. If you've got a lightweight flywheel but still have
balance shafts, you have your priorities mixed up.
So here's what you do with the bearings. It's easy. You can do this at
home. You CAN do it with the motor in the car, BUT DON'T. You must enjoy
punishment to do this like that.
The end result will slightly increase your oil pressure, but usually not
enough to cause concern unless you have a full-circumference bearing turbo, ball bearing turbo--with your oil feed coming off the oil
filter housing. The head feed would be better in that case because it's
regulated at 15 PSI.
Cylinder Head 205 - Degree DOHC Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and
adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of
several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine
on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your
engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why...
is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome
when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and
they're all defeated here.
The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been
resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care
about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no
less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are
recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it
was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will
change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your
engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same.
I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos
broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to
the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will
be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool
fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning
the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking
your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this
video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to
digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in
length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on
Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion
chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is
their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most
out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those
specifications without additional hardware or without causing a
catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next
video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the
manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process.
It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your
combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional
adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206
should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure
to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine
is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist
Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of
mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its
Installing an eBay 20g
I'm reviewing an ebay 20g TD05 internally-gated turbocharger. You've seen me open it, assess it,
and port it. Now I'm going to install it and see how it fits on my car.
Its dimensions are close enough to a Mitsubishi turbo that it fits well, but it didn't play nice
with my aftermarket stuff as the video illustrates.
You'll see what I mean...
The wastegate actuator nipple aims straight toward the compressor housing,
and I don't like it. I fixed it with a pair of pliers and an allen wrench
at 5:55 in a way that's far less likely to break it. The flanges and bolt
centers lined up fine and without any issues, though others have claimed to
have had them with this turbo. The
compressor cover is an obvious giveaway regarding identifying this turbo. It does not wear the cast-in designation
TD05H that the Mitsubishi turbos do, but
for $228, what do you expect?
If you chose to go this route, just manage your expectations. Be aware
that it might not bolt up perfectly to your particular car, and be willing
to fix what isn't perfect.
How to build a 4g63 Coil On Plug Assembly
This is just like all other do it yourself projects.
1) Buy parts that make doing the job easiest for you. 2) Put the stuff
together. 3) Install it.
No really, I used the JMFabrications Coil Plate, ordered all new UF269
Chrysler coils and wiring from Toyota. This video is intended to
compliment thread #290665 at DSMTuners dot com which contains wiring
diagrams and part numbers for these specific products.
The only thing I did different was use 3/16" grommets in the harness holes
rather than elongating them to prevent wire chaffing. I went a little
overboard with the convoluted tubing, but it looks fantastic.
you can get coils from Chrysler models...
2003-2003 300M PRO-AM
2002-2003 300M SPECIAL
2002-2003 CONCORDE LIMITED
2002-2003 CONCORDE LXI
2000-2000 INTREPID ES
2000-2002 INTREPID R/T
2002-2003 INTREPID SE
2003-2003 INTREPID SXT
What isn't covered in that thread is the necessity of a capacitive
discharge system. In order for this to be any kind of upgrade a CDI is
required. The factory coil pack on these cars is good for 30+ PSI.
Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO!
We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's
bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different
brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and
standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC.
If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done
here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through
11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from
the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for
instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a
demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections.
You gotta do the cooking by the book.
I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular
car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case
study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are
several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that
shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my
videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts.
You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This
car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this
same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having
this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how
and why I do things the way I do when I get there.
This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a
video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month
to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for
YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the
whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a