There's a history both behind this car, and the friendship with this person. I met him 10 years ago following a random conversation that I injected myself into between 2 strangers at an auto parts store. I had just bought a '92 Civic CX with crap compression and was picking up some service parts to keep it limping and useful while I built my DSM. I overheard him mention "4g63" to somebody as I walked by, so I turned around and introduced myself without any clue that he was one of the "realest" people I've ever known.
What occurred for me in the following discussion was an awakening on my part. He led me to an adjacent parking lot where an un-assuming Hyundai Elantra sat. This isn't the one, but is one of many factory cars that he's swapped a 4g63 into. What he managed to get through my big thick skull was there were lots of great inconspicuous chassis that you can simply bolt a 4g63 into. Over time it became evident where you can find lots of "racing" parts, from factory equipment on various mini-vans, station wagons, much of the Hyundai line-up from '92-'95. During the "DSM Years", there were plenty of cars from other manufacturers that made dynamite donors, and this sparked my ability to be frugal in some of my ventures.
If you ever meet Jamie, expect his knowledge of car parts both inside and outside the realm of Mitsubishi to be as unassuming on the surface as the car in this video. He has true talent. Finds peace and happiness in a junkyard full of decay, and skills that create useful high-performance art from what many consider rubbish. Because he's already taken time walking around with parts from one car and bolting them on to others to see if they'll fit, worked as a machinist's apprentice rebuilding everything under the sun, and done the tech work to analyze failures in all of it, he's often my go-to guy for advice when things aren't working correctly. Many times he's come through for me in a pinch and shed light on something I didn't understand. That goes both for examples in the automotive domain, and in real life when I've hit hard times. Many of my parts for the Colt came from his past builds on various Mitsubishis and Hyundais. In fact... many of my Colt parts have come from this very car.
He gave this chassis to somebody, and they returned it later because life didn't let them finish it. I don't think it took even a month once he put his mind to working on it to get it in this state, and it was motorless-and-in-pieces. I can't wait to see these parts get bolted on this car. I think we'll have a new textbook definition of sleeper when he's done.
Hyundai Elantra 4g63 Shortblock Assembly
HOLD ON TIGHT! HERE WE GO!
We begin the blueprint and assembly on my 1992 Hyundai Elantra's
bastardized 4g63. The parts used in this are from a mash of different
brands and models outside of the typical 2.0L 4g63, but the specs and
standards I am following for its assembly are for the 2.0L DOHC.
If you want to follow along in your service manual to verify what I've done
here in this video, the processes we cover here detail pages 11C-95 through
11C-105 of the 1g Overhaul manual. I would prefer you not rip them from
the binding and throw them away, relying only on this video for
instruction... but rather use this video as a motivational guide, and as a
demonstration of the techniques involved in those sections.
You gotta do the cooking by the book.
I never had any intention of making instructional videos on this particular
car, but after it blew up I slowly realized it's actually a better case
study for how a 4g63 ticks than anything else in my driveway. There are
several reasons for this. One being that it's a mix of parts that
shouldn't be bolted together, and the other is that many of you watching my
videos aren't trying to build a 600hp engine out of aftermarket parts.
You're trying to put back together what used to be your daily driver. This
car covers those bases. Don't think for a second I won't go through this
same trouble and level of detail for the GSX. I will. When I do, having
this information in this video will give you a better understanding on how
and why I do things the way I do when I get there.
This was the shortest I could condense this video. I've never uploaded a
video this long, and I hope I never have to do it again. It took a month
to create on cutting-edge equipment, 16 hours to export, and 9 hours for
YouTube to process. My script for the voiceover is 6 times longer than the
whole script for the movie Pootie Tang. 6 times. Longer. Than a
Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 engine's
In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they
are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of
dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock
second-generation head that I didn't port.
In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For
some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is
what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme
killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are
concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will
remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this
video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker.
The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400
box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video.
My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet
have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As
far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow
numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots
of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on
a flow bench, I would.
There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war
mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon
finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the
herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd
mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I
don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to
de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based
on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why
relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the
effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an
x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm
not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to
information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this
in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's
Why the Lovell factor is important:
Lovell gas factor calculator:
Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works
and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the
ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate,
and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow
your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't
care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say,
they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a
few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance,
and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos
are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!
More ebay 20g drag passes
Trolled by mother nature.
I thought plugging in my o2 sensor might make a difference. Scarily that's
not how things worked out. My fuel trims are all jacked up with or without
it. Airflow counts are down. I have more to do to this thing, but in an
effort to keep things real, I'm uploading what happened and what I found in
The PRIMARY reason for racing is development of both self and your
equipment. If your goal is to have an awesome street car, you can't
fully-achieve that goal without rigorous testing where numbers and facts
are clearly evident. You JUST CAN'T do that on the STREET. There are no
numbers on the street, no measurement of a baseline nor any improvements
you might make. There's no measurement of a drivers' skill outside of,
"did you win or didn't you?"
I didn't come to the track with the expectation of MY driving needing to be
improved. I was simply getting numbers, so I wasn't a tree-nazi like I was
in the Friday Night No-Lift-To-Shift video. There was more incentive for
me to just not red-light and see what she'll do.
This evening I didn't feel like the track crew were on their A-game.
Sometimes they held staged cars for an inordinately long period of time...
which once I'm staged, I'm on the rev limiter, and once they left me there
awaiting the tree for over 20 seconds, heating my car up and leaving me
disadvantaged out of the hole. Other times they treated the starting
lanes, dried off my opponent's side but not mine, not giving instruction to
hold or wait. In fact, one guy was signaling me forward while another crew
member was standing in front of my car spraying the lane. What do you
expect for only $15? I'm grateful for them, but the communication could
stand improvement over what I saw tonight.
Perhaps I'm just a bit miffed with my setup and looking for someone else to
blame? The track officials certainly don't deserve any for how it ran this
Cylinder Head 205 - Degree 4g63 Camshafts
This video is all about establishing your valve timing baseline, and
adjusting your camshafts to the manufacturer's spec. It's only ONE of
several steps that should be performed when you're assembling your engine
on an engine stand. Establishing these conditions with accuracy while your
engine installed in the car is a near-impossibility, and the reason why...
is demonstrated in this video. There are several challenges to overcome
when performing these procedures on a 4gxx series Mitsubishi engine, and
they're all defeated here.
The cylinder head used in this video is a J1 spec '92 Hyundai Elantra
small-combustion chamber head which has had several valve jobs and has been
resurfaced multiple times by budget engine remanufacturers who didn't care
about quality control, as well as performance shops who do. It has had no
less than .040" removed from the head gasket surface, the valves are
recessed because of all the valve jobs performed, and at some point when it
was cut, it wasn't level. Removing material from the deck surface will
change the installed camshaft centerline, and that will change your
engine's valve timing events even if all other parts remain the same.
I would claim this is a multi-part video except that I've got the videos
broken up by topic already, and this one is all about setting your cams to
the manufacturer's specification. It is not the end of testing that will
be performed with these tools. The basics concerning the process and tool
fabrication are covered here. Further discussion on this topic concerning
the effects of advancing or retarding camshafts from spec, and for checking
your valve clearance will be in the videos that follow. I had to end this
video after the manufacturer's spec was achieved to make it easier to
digest, and because it would have created a video greater than one hour in
length despite the break-neck speeds that things happen here on
Where your cams are set determine how the swept volume of the combustion
chamber gets used. The information on the manufacturer's spec sheet is
their recommendation for baseline settings that will help you get the most
out of those camshafts. Whether or not your engine can operate with those
specifications without additional hardware or without causing a
catastrophic failure will be expanded upon in Cylinder Head 206. The next
video should be used as a companion to this video because establishing the
manufacturer's baseline is not the end of the assembly or testing process.
It's only half the battle. Should you be lucky enough to find your
combination of parts allow your camshafts to fit and requires no additional
adjustment after assembly, the steps in this video and in Cylinder Head 206
should still be performed if you are doing the assembly yourself. Failure
to inspect these variables may lead to a tuning nightmare once the engine
is back in the car, hard starts, or worse... bent valves and damaged wrist
Making these tools and performing these steps will give you the peace of
mind to know with certainty that your engine is operating safely at its
New Year's Eve Hyundai Teardown
It goes like this. One of the best friends I've ever had built this car
from junk parts. He said it best, "it was built from literally a box of
scraps". It ran an 13.2 in the quarter mile using no aftermarket
performance parts of any kind. That quarter mile time was limited by
traction. I know this car had more in it, but I never managed to get it to
stick before encountering this.
More on this build...
The proper bolts were not always available, but the builder knows isht from
Shinola. Even though this engine defies all engineering logic from
Mitsubishi, the builder knew what would work and what would not. Budget
was of the most primary of his concerns, and it shows at every turn, and
it's what brought us to the kind of failure we find in this video.
I asked him what bearings he used. He said, "...the least expensive ones I
could find. Picture Aluglides. Now picture generic Aluglides. I paid
half-as-much for those bearings as I would for generic Aluglides.
Bolt too long? Put a nut on it and shorten it. Oil pan too close to the
pickup? Hammer a big dent in it to make clearance for it. Wrong water
pipe? Put a brass hardware store tee in the line to tap a turbo coolant feed. Forget buying ARP's, this is
an all-standard re-used factory fastenere'd no-oil-squirter .030"-overbore
6-bolt with the cut-off balance shaft mod. It's using a small combustion
chamber head off of a 1.6L Mirage with a 2.0L non-turbo block. The plug wires are used. The
radiator hoses were used. Everything but the head gasket came from a junk
car. The FWD turbo gearbox is from my
150,000 mile old Plymouth Laser that donated the block to the Colt. This
is one of the most amusing cars I've ever wrapped my fingers around because
of these kinds of character-building attributes. Nevermind that the
chassis has less than 70,000 miles on it (not bad for a '92), it's just
that it's built without using any new parts. Parts were substituted when
they were not available, and it's ridiculously powerful.
Thank you Jamie. You discovered your answer. I'm happy to help. I'll be
changing some things like the oil pan bolts, bearing quality, some of the
plumbing and fixing a few wiring harness problems, but I'm not changing
anything else if I can avoid it. This car was never intended to have
anything upgraded to deliver raw power, and I'll do my best to keep it that
way, replacing and restoring what failed so that we can keep pushing these
generic non-turbo .030" over pistons to
the limit. Apparently, 24 PSI from a 14b is not enough.
In the meantime, my diagnosis is that excessive oil pressure lead to the
breakdown of the #1 bearing. After all, it's the 1st bearing in-line in
the oil system on the main gallery. It's the most isolated from clutch
harmonics, yet it was the one that spun. The #1 bearing supplies the oil
pump. The teardrop on the head is nearly gone from head resurfacing, and
this is a no-balance-shaft no-oil-squirter block. I think high oil
pressure is why it falls on its face above 6000 rpms. There's a
restriction upstream from the lifters and they deflate at high RPMs, losing
lift. I'll fix it. I've got the parts.
Out with the old, in with the new.
I bet you were expecting a different car. Sorry.
I didn't want to, nor did I ask to troll you with this video. It's just
what it is. I set out to burn some rubber, drop some bass, and have some
fun in the Hyundai... and this is what happened.
Testing in this video... aside from the opening scene, I shot this video at
1080p30 using an head-mounted Sony HDR-AS30V Action Cam. The camera was
contained in the incuded waterproof case because I needed to test the audio
with it. It sounds great with out it. It sounds only good with it. This
is a test to see how I can adjust my shooting style to add 1st-person
perspective to my videos for everyone's benefit. The follow-up video will
be shot entirely with the "big camera" (Canon XH-A1s)
Calculate Your Compression Ratio
This is everything you need to do to calculate your compression ratio. No
foolin'. Every equation and process demonstrated. Find all your
variables. Know your exact compression ratio in every cylinder. This is
how you do it.
Just because your service manual says your car is 7.8:1 or 8.5:1
compression doesn't mean that it is. Whenever there are casting
irregularities, variations in piston height, parts that have been machined,
non-OE parts, or changes to your head gasket selection, your compression
ratio WILL change. It's highly probable that you're only CLOSE to spec if
you've never touched your engine at all since it was "born", and that it
doesn't MATCH spec. Even if it did, how would you know? This.
V1 Swept Volume
V2 Deck Volume
V3 Piston-to-deck clearance
V4 Piston dish cc's
V5 Head combustion chamber cc's
The ratio math:
V1+V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at BDC
V2+V3+V4+V5 = volume of combustion chamber at TDC
The ratio is...
(V1+V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5) : (V2+V3+V4+V5) ÷ (V2+V3+V4+V5)
BDC ÷ TDC : TDC ÷ TDC
First you fill in the variables, then you calculate volumes, then you add
the volumes, then you reduce the ratio (fraction). It's that easy.
Here are your magic numbers:
0.7854 = Pi quartered to the ten thousandth
16.387 = number of cc's in a cubic inch.
If you divide any number in cc's by 16.387 it gives you inches. If you
multiply any number in cubic inches by 16.387 it gives you cc's.
Quartering pi lets you use the calculation:
BORE x BORE x STROKE x .7854 = volume of a cylinder
π x (BORE ÷ 2) x (BORE ÷ 2) x STROKE = volume of a cylinder
Either way is right. You get the same result if you calculate pi to the
ten thousandth. While I apologize for all the math, no I don't. I'm
really not sorry. You actually clicked here for it whether you realize it
or not. This is ALL the math, the tests, and the whole process to
calculate your cylinder volumes and compression individually even if you
don't know any of your variables yet. All of my numbers are present for
those who want to calculate out the last 3 cylinders out of curiosity just
to see how it affects cylinder volumes and compression ratios from one
cylinder to the next. Why would I do that for you? Why would I deprive
you of that practice?
Just assume that all 4 of my combustion chambers are 41.75 ml if you do
Clicking like share and subscribe helps a channel grow. It also motivates
me. Don't sweat the camera. It's enough to know that so many of you care
about what I'm doing here. From the bottom of my atmospheric dump, I thank
you all! This gift horse's teeth are all over the place, but he sometimes
poops gold nuggets.
PS: Use ATF for your piston dish volume tests, not alcohol. Of course
it's better just to use the spec sheet included with your pistons... but
not everyone gets that luxury. Water is just fine for head combustion
chamber tests. Dry and re-oil all parts that water touches.
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 3
I have bad news. The big camera's playback heads bit the dust from
extensive prolonged use. I wore out the tape drive. No manner of cleaning
tapes can fix what it's been through. I've talked many times about how
much footage goes into one of my 15 to 30 minute videos, and for every hour
of video footage I've shot, the camera does double-duty because after
shooting, it has to be played back in real time during capture. I've done
more than 130 videos this way, probably over 2000 hours of use in the
harshest of environments, and it just couldn't handle it any longer. I
shot several more tapes beyond what's in this video that I can't even
import because the play heads failed. I don't know if any of that video
even stuck to the tapes?
The lost footage from the last video was an early and un-recognized sign of
what was soon to come. I know I joked about it, but in reality it's really
not very funny at all. I can't afford a backup for a piece of equipment
like this, so it's something I don't have. As bad as this news might feel
to you, I feel it 21,000 times over and I mean that. This couldn't come at
a worse time and expense for me, and at a point where my production was
really starting to wrap up on this project to move on to bigger and better
things. It's the only camera I have that can do what I do here on this
channel, so I'm forced to stop production for now.
Even though my camera is huge, 7 year old HDV technology, these things
still sell for several thousand dollars used because they record
un-compressed video unlike every other flash storage based solution
available at twice the price. 3CCD 1080/60i HD cameras that shoot to tape
have advantages that you can't affordably achieve with solid-state media.
I have to use un-compressed footage to do what I do here or else there's
nothing left of the video quality after 7 exports and a final mpeg
compression. The Sony Action Cam can't do it, we learned that in a
previous test video. Even if it could, it can't do close-ups and
everything's fisheyed. Buying a low-end 4K camera is impractical because I
can't efficiently or effectively edit that video without a $9,000 computer.
Jafromobile is just not that big of a channel, and I do this completely
un-sponsored and at my own expense with the help of a handful of friends
who volunteer their talent, time and information. It's the epitome of
low-budget and what it earns still doesn't come close covering the
channel's equipment and expenses as they occur.
People have urged that I do a kickstarter, but I can't bring myself to ask
for that from the community. I don't sell a product or offer services so
there is no profit margin. I can't accept money for something that happens
only at the speed of my available resources. To me, this channel is my
proverbial gift horse to all of you.
I know what you're thinking and I realize this is a grim conclusion to this
video. It sounds like I'm down for the count, but don't rush to the down
vote button just yet. As of the upload date of this video, I'm paying out
of pocket to fix a ridiculously expensive 3CCD 1080HD broadcast quality
video camera so that these projects can resume, and so that I can bring the
final assembly steps to you in the same quality you've grown used to seeing
here on Jafromobile.
If I wear out a camera every 3 years, then so be it. This is love, and no
expense is too great. The big camera is being fixed by its manufacturer,
and I'm expecting the repair to cost as much as replacing it. I sincerely
hope that's not the case. Hopefully my production only has to take a short
break. Once production resumes and I can import these tapes, I've got some
really awesome stuff coming up and I hope every last one of you is here to
see it. I may have a few other backlogged nuggets I can upload, and as
always I'm happy to discuss this in the comments and provide updates on the
repair as I get them.
Update: Awaiting quote due by 5/16 according to the repair agreement.
5/9/2014 9:17:00 AM DELIVERED NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 5:36:00 AM DESTINATION SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 12:04:00 AM ARRIVAL SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/12/2014 - Repair paid in full $440. Far less than I was expecting. I'm
glad they still make parts for 7 year old professional equipment. Thank
You Canon, USA! Repair should be complete within 7 business days from
receipt of payment. The quote only took them 24 hours and they quoted a
week just for the estimate, so at this rate I should be back up and running
once again very soon. Thank ALL of you for your kind words, HUGE
generosity, and all of the moral support. I swear I have the best
subscribers on YouTube!
WORLDS FASTEST AWD / 4G63 DATSUN / 20B RX7 IN TESTING
Willowbank Raceway held the 1st of the 2012 Top Sportman Series on the
weekend. Reece McGregor and the Heat Treatments Skyline thought it would be
a good chance to have some test runs in their worlds fastest RB26 powered
4wd skyline. The team worked hard all day and were rewarded with a final
pass or 7.64, not far off their 7.56 record, although something tells me
theres plenty more to come from this car again.
Another car using the test lane was Rob Novak in his Jett Racing 4G63
powered Datsun 1200. The team made adjustments through the day and saw a PB
7.35 @ 187mph on the second last pass of the night, the final wild pass on
video then saw a transmission failure but a happy team none the less.
Final team testing was the Direct Clutch/Promodz Rx7, the car is 3/4
chassis and a running 3rotor 20BT tweaked by Mazfix. The team recently made
adjustments in the rear and also in transmission and are starting to see
results, it ran a 7.99 @ 171mph through the day, then later in the night
suffered a leaking Boost pipe.
Owners Jerry and Dan tell me they havent even started to push the motor
yet, so another car with plenty more to come, and im sure that pb 7.80 will
soon be slashed.
These cars should all be running at the up and coming Sydney Jamboree at
WSID and by the looks of things have some unfinished business they want to
take care of :)
Why so SIRIUS? Kia 4g64?
This video assumes you're aware that various iterations of the 4g series
Mitsubishi engines are designated as Sirius I & II.
For detailed information about which engines qualify as which, visit:
There's also this at EvolutionM:
Good luck finding info about this using Hyundai and Kia in searches.
Wikipedia doesn't have any info about it grouped with the Sonatas either.
There is no question what this is, well illustrated in this video.
I apologize for the length of this video, but a lot of ground is covered in
a short time. Hopefully there's some information in here you may someday
use. I'm just trying to expose it because there doesn't seem to be any
real information floating around in the forums about this yet.
The car is a first-generation 1999-2005 Kia Optima sedan. It has the EVO
equivalent of a 4g64 2.4L. Before using any of these parts, do your
research, cross-reference your parts and know what you're getting into.
Using parts from this rotating assembly in a 2g Eclipse will require
aftermarket rods and/or custom pistons. This is information for those who
wish to frankenstein their builds, or save a buck... whichever.... either
one of those requires skill.
Crooked Alternator Diagnosis
Got belt problems? Watch this video. Common issue on Mitsubishis. If you
find your tensioner frequently coming loose, if you have belt squeal
issues, if you kick your alternator belt off doing high RPM shifts, this
video was made for you. This is the first of a 2-part series.
What I do here is take my car apart to confirm the problem, and so you can
see it. Because the alternator is supported by a soft cast-aluminum piece
of the oil filter housing, because the hole is significantly larger than
the bolt, and because the bolt is rough hardened steel... a common failure
occurs over time that can lead to all kinds of belt problems. This video
demonstrates what you're likely to find if the issues in the top paragraph
Tools used in disassembly. 10mm, 12mm, 13mm gear wrenches and a deep-well
12mm socket (just the socket). I used a mini-pry bar briefly to free the
lower alternator bolt.
Hyundai Elantra - 2014
En este video os hago una review en profundidad del "Hyundai Elantra FL
MY14 MPI Techno" de 2014. Interiores, exterior, sonido del motor, ...
Año de fabricación: 2014
Cilindrada: 1.600 cc
Potencia: 132 cv
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