There's a history both behind this car, and the friendship with this person. I met him 10 years ago following a random conversation that I injected myself into between 2 strangers at an auto parts store. I had just bought a '92 Civic CX with crap compression and was picking up some service parts to keep it limping and useful while I built my DSM. I overheard him mention "4g63" to somebody as I walked by, so I turned around and introduced myself without any clue that he was one of the "realest" people I've ever known.
What occurred for me in the following discussion was an awakening on my part. He led me to an adjacent parking lot where an un-assuming Hyundai Elantra sat. This isn't the one, but is one of many factory cars that he's swapped a 4g63 into. What he managed to get through my big thick skull was there were lots of great inconspicuous chassis that you can simply bolt a 4g63 into. Over time it became evident where you can find lots of "racing" parts, from factory equipment on various mini-vans, station wagons, much of the Hyundai line-up from '92-'95. During the "DSM Years", there were plenty of cars from other manufacturers that made dynamite donors, and this sparked my ability to be frugal in some of my ventures.
If you ever meet Jamie, expect his knowledge of car parts both inside and outside the realm of Mitsubishi to be as unassuming on the surface as the car in this video. He has true talent. Finds peace and happiness in a junkyard full of decay, and skills that create useful high-performance art from what many consider rubbish. Because he's already taken time walking around with parts from one car and bolting them on to others to see if they'll fit, worked as a machinist's apprentice rebuilding everything under the sun, and done the tech work to analyze failures in all of it, he's often my go-to guy for advice when things aren't working correctly. Many times he's come through for me in a pinch and shed light on something I didn't understand. That goes both for examples in the automotive domain, and in real life when I've hit hard times. Many of my parts for the Colt came from his past builds on various Mitsubishis and Hyundais. In fact... many of my Colt parts have come from this very car.
He gave this chassis to somebody, and they returned it later because life didn't let them finish it. I don't think it took even a month once he put his mind to working on it to get it in this state, and it was motorless-and-in-pieces. I can't wait to see these parts get bolted on this car. I think we'll have a new textbook definition of sleeper when he's done.
Jamie's Boosted Hyundai Elantra (Oct '11)
This is an old video that I've decided to post practically un-edited. A
few parts were skipped regarding off-topic babble in order to keep it under
10 minutes. You've seen this car in another video.
There really is no way to determine how many different cars contributed to
this build. Every last part on it (except the one featured in this video)
was previously used on another vehicle. Absolutely nothing came new in a
box. The owner put enough 4g63's together in a lifetime to have extra
gaskets and seals laying around to exclusively use junkyard parts to build
a whole car.
In the last video, you saw me contribute all the turbo parts to this build. Used 150,000 mile old
stock DSM turbo parts including a worked
14b. I'm happy to show it to you all put together. Check the other video
of this car if you want more details on the engine build. None of the
internals have changed.
Hyundai Assembly 4 - Balancing Rods
I edited this video to its finished state, and RojoDelChocolate handed me a
track with no collaboration that was the right length and rhythm. I
literally did nothing to the video once the audio track was dropped in, and
that's just how it went. I can't believe it. It's like when you're
pumping gas into a Ford F150 full-blast and release the pump handle to stop
right on $80.00 even. He's got more musical talent in his pinky fingernail
than I have mechanical ability in my spleen, appendix and tonsils combined.
Thank you RojoDelChocolate.
Here I'm cleaning up the fly cuts, balancing the piston and rod assemblies
and preparing to double-check my valve clearance. I had to start by
cleaning up and re-lubricating every part that was removed to prevent
contamination of the assembly. This is the tedious part of doing the job
We learned that this whole engine assembly was pretty far-gone in previous
videos, way past its service limits, so making it fit and work again takes
extensive testing, machining, and re-testing to ensure all of the parts
fit. This is likely the most challenging build I will perform on any car
in my driveway. It has been so far. But because I have not demonstrated
the basics of engine balancing beyond what a machine shop has to do to zero
balance a flat-plane crankshaft, I thought I'd give it its own video right
here with one of the test assemblies.
When you balance rods by themselves, you balance the big-end and the
pin-bore separately. You get weights of both ends of the rod using a jig
and a process that I don't demonstrate in this video. The reason you do
this is because the position of the weight behaves differently relative to
its distance from the crankshaft pin. Weight on the big end has less of an
effect than if there's extra weight on the pin bore. The best balanced
engines have every part of the piston and rod assemblies balanced
separately within .1 grams using the method I just described, and not the
method shown in this video.
The method shown here involves weighing ALL of the piston and rod assembly
components together, and then taking out the difference just on the casting
lines of the connecting rod. They were already off-balance and had never
been balanced before. This is an improvement, not perfection. It's still
something this engine needed to have done. I'm not using the
big-end/small-end method here because these pistons are pressed-on and if I
try to remove them from the rod, it will shatter the piston skirts. No
thank you. I'm not replacing these pistons.
The reason I grind down the casting lines is because it's weight is in a
neutral territory, extending from the big end to the small end. It's
easier to take an even amount off when you grind across the entire length
of the rods. This method leaves a lot up to assumption as there's no way
to determine which end of the rod is heavier, or if the weight is in a
wrist pin or piston. All this does is ensure the crankshaft is spinning an
even amount of weight on all 4 of its rod journals. Grams of weight turn
into pounds of force at idle speeds. My goal is to remove that vibration
at any and all rotations per minute if I can. So I make them all the same
within 1.0 grams of their combined weight.
If you're assembling and balancing all NEW parts, not parts that have worn
together and need to go back in the same holes... you will have to balance
the individual parts and pieces. This is the poor man's method. Even with
the new parts you still do the poor man's method once you're done balancing
the individual parts and assemble them, but sometimes when you're lucky
with the new parts, you can just swap around the rods, pins and fasteners
to balance the weights on each assembly and not have to grind anything at
all. That's awfully nice when that happens. You know the Hyundai won't
let me get away with that.
Removing stress risers might help strengthen the rods, but it's not what
I'm after here or else I would have removed the whole casting line from all
of them. These rods should be fine for my goals. My goal is to remove
just enough from all of the fatter rods (weight wise) to match the lightest
Balancing an inline 4 engine with a flat-plane crank is easy if you have
already balanced the crankshaft. This crank was already balanced for the
GSX motor on a previous occasion. It's zero'd out. In order to balance
the rotating assembly, all you do is make the piston and rod assemblies
weigh identically to its neighbors. Just 3 grams of weight can produce
over a hundred pounds of lateral forces at red-line so this is an aspect of
engine building that you should not overlook. All you need to do is get
all of them within 1 gram. The scale I'm using measures whole grams, so
that's all I can do anyway. This method is acceptable for balancing a
rotating assembly as long as you're smart about how to remove the weight.
Install Clutch in a 1g Turbo DSM swapped Elantra
You guys asked for an update on a different project. I've been working on
the GSX since November and this is one I could squeeze out without getting
in the way of other projects.
TRADE YA needs a clutch. It needs some other things, too, but I'm starting
with the clutch. In this video I stay on point with the
used-or-junkyard-parts build theme. This car doesn't deserve new parts and
I've done all of this before, just never in one video. I need something to
run at the track while I'm waiting for parts, polishing and machining. I'm
closest to having that happening with the Elantra right now so let's get
this over with.
Consider this the cliff notes of the transmission series, and another step
towards making a free car built from used parts run 12's.
Jafro's Hyundai Elantra Surprise
There are some things you can't put a price on. I'm not just talking
about the Hyundai. I'm talking about Jamie. I have the best friends in
the world. Look what Jamie just did for all of your entertainment. He
literally donated it to me to play with on this channel. This isn't just
Think about it. It's the only FWD DSM in my driveway, and the only one I'm
likely to have. With this combination of parts, I could not have a greater
challenge making this car stick. Because right now it doesn't at all.
Torque steer ends at about 5700 RPMs in third gear. Boost is instantaneous. This car could never
make good use of any larger of a turbo.
I'm convinced with the right combo of tricks to gain timing and tweaks to
make it stick, and that it will run deep into the 12's just like it is.
This car is a kick in the pants to drive. A rolling burnout. Be careful
with that downshift.
More ebay 20g drag passes
Trolled by mother nature.
I thought plugging in my o2 sensor might make a difference. Scarily that's
not how things worked out. My fuel trims are all jacked up with or without
it. Airflow counts are down. I have more to do to this thing, but in an
effort to keep things real, I'm uploading what happened and what I found in
The PRIMARY reason for racing is development of both self and your
equipment. If your goal is to have an awesome street car, you can't
fully-achieve that goal without rigorous testing where numbers and facts
are clearly evident. You JUST CAN'T do that on the STREET. There are no
numbers on the street, no measurement of a baseline nor any improvements
you might make. There's no measurement of a drivers' skill outside of,
"did you win or didn't you?"
I didn't come to the track with the expectation of MY driving needing to be
improved. I was simply getting numbers, so I wasn't a tree-nazi like I was
in the Friday Night No-Lift-To-Shift video. There was more incentive for
me to just not red-light and see what she'll do.
This evening I didn't feel like the track crew were on their A-game.
Sometimes they held staged cars for an inordinately long period of time...
which once I'm staged, I'm on the rev limiter, and once they left me there
awaiting the tree for over 20 seconds, heating my car up and leaving me
disadvantaged out of the hole. Other times they treated the starting
lanes, dried off my opponent's side but not mine, not giving instruction to
hold or wait. In fact, one guy was signaling me forward while another crew
member was standing in front of my car spraying the lane. What do you
expect for only $15? I'm grateful for them, but the communication could
stand improvement over what I saw tonight.
Perhaps I'm just a bit miffed with my setup and looking for someone else to
blame? The track officials certainly don't deserve any for how it ran this
Wheels, Plastidip and Mickeys
What starts as an innocent venture into wheel painting ends in a sticky,
sticky episode of badassery.
Plastidip is spray-on rubber. This is the first time I've ever worked with
My review: It comes in colors but my favorite is black. It's good stuff.
What I did should have had me spraying it on last... because mounting tires
will remove it from a wheel. Most people doing this painted their wheels
while tires were mounted. This is what happens when you don't. So what?
It's spray-on rubber. Spray on some more and you're good.
If you want the BEST results with it (since it can be expensive in some
regions), allow no less than 10 minutes between coats, and spray LIGHT
COATS. That's capitalized because squeezing out a light coat of spray-on
rubber is much easier said than done. It's like lightly-spraying Silly
String, or setting your fire extinguisher to "low". Or trying to bathe in
a waterfall with good intentions, but getting knocked on your ass by the
force of falling water instead. I'm amazed at how easy a product like this
is to work with in concept. It sprays differently than paint, but its
application is easily mastered once you get the feel for it. I give it...
d (ツ) b
Grinding Oil Return Channels
I started cleaning the rust out, and got carried away. I didn't want to do
as extensive of a cleanup job as I did on the GSX, but still wanted to make
improvements because of the kinds of oil-related problems it experienced.
There's a method to this madness. It will make more sense once I get
around to bolting the oil pan back on. The techniques in this video are
things I had to do right now if I was going to do them at all. Some of
them really needed to be done anyway.
You really don't see people do these tricks on imports. Just because you
don't see it, it doesn't mean it can't help. I hope you enjoyed the motor
oil drag races in the middle of the video. They speak for the science
behind this mod... without having to get all scientific. Those results
speak clearly for themselves, and there's plenty of chances to get
scientific as the Glyptal treatment of the GSX is completed.
In this video...
I used steel wire cup brushes for both an air DIY grinder, and a Dremel to
remove the rust.
I used a cone-shaped carbide double-cut burr to smooth the crankcase.
I polished the crankcase with coarse and medium sanding rolls for both an
air DIY grinder and a Dremel.
I used a 1/4" ball carbide double-cut burr to grind the channel.
I used a pack of Harbor Freight #95947 10-Piece Tube Brush Kit.
Friday Night "Street" challenge.
Racing trailer queens at Richmond Dragway's so-called "street" event again.
Making a few passes with the Hyundai Elantra to illustrate a point.
Someone asked about timeslips recently and I wanted to show one of the
types of information you can gain from examining what's on it. Information
about yourself, and your car. How well you're driving it, and how well
your equipment is working for you.
I built it up with the current video explaining the 60' time measurement
while installing compound tires. I figured that timing was appropriate
since tires have everything to do with traction and acceleration. The 60'
is all about maximizing acceleration over the 1st 60 feet of the track.
The results of running different 60' times show up differently at the end
of the track. A FWD, RWD and AWD car will exhibit different
characteristics based on contact patches, weight distribution and rotating
mass associated with each setup. But FWD is by far the most challenging to
deal with getting up out of the hole.
Mastering the launch with your car means more at the track than making all
the horsepower in
the world at once. Getting it down takes practice. Here's a quick guide
for how to set your expectations. So if drag racing is your thing...
always be convinced you could do it better, and never stop trying to get
4g63 Block Oil Gallery Mod
This modification is intended to improve your 4g series engine's oil
delivery. People frequently discover large chunks of flash in their
engine's main oil gallery. It's because the galleries are part of the
cast, they're not machined into the block. There is also a very rough
sharp edge where the main oil gallery is bored into the block, and oil must
make a slightly greater-than 90° turn in order to begin its course to the
parts it lubricates. Both of these conditions cause turbulence in the oil
flow. My goal in this video is to eliminate as much of that as I can.
This is a cheap and easy modification if you have the tools, and the
patience. Any engine with cast-in oil galleries could probably benefit
from this. Be careful not to cut into the high pressure oil gallery or
else you will circulate un-filtered oil to the #1 main, oil pump, and rear
balance shaft. You will also deprive the rest of the engine the oil
pressure it needs to operate. So in short, punch a hole in that and it's
trash. I did this my way, everyone may choose to do this a different way.
I just wanted to make this video to raise awareness.
Also, there's a great thread on DSMtuners about this. Pictures and
everything. Written by a machinist and friend of the DSM community. Go
give him some reps because he's posted a lot of great info about the DSM
oil system over the years.
Hyundai 4g63 Assembly Part 3
I have bad news. The big camera's playback heads bit the dust from
extensive prolonged use. I wore out the tape drive. No manner of cleaning
tapes can fix what it's been through. I've talked many times about how
much footage goes into one of my 15 to 30 minute videos, and for every hour
of video footage I've shot, the camera does double-duty because after
shooting, it has to be played back in real time during capture. I've done
more than 130 videos this way, probably over 2000 hours of use in the
harshest of environments, and it just couldn't handle it any longer. I
shot several more tapes beyond what's in this video that I can't even
import because the play heads failed. I don't know if any of that video
even stuck to the tapes?
The lost footage from the last video was an early and un-recognized sign of
what was soon to come. I know I joked about it, but in reality it's really
not very funny at all. I can't afford a backup for a piece of equipment
like this, so it's something I don't have. As bad as this news might feel
to you, I feel it 21,000 times over and I mean that. This couldn't come at
a worse time and expense for me, and at a point where my production was
really starting to wrap up on this project to move on to bigger and better
things. It's the only camera I have that can do what I do here on this
channel, so I'm forced to stop production for now.
Even though my camera is huge, 7 year old HDV technology, these things
still sell for several thousand dollars used because they record
un-compressed video unlike every other flash storage based solution
available at twice the price. 3CCD 1080/60i HD cameras that shoot to tape
have advantages that you can't affordably achieve with solid-state media.
I have to use un-compressed footage to do what I do here or else there's
nothing left of the video quality after 7 exports and a final mpeg
compression. The Sony Action Cam can't do it, we learned that in a
previous test video. Even if it could, it can't do close-ups and
everything's fisheyed. Buying a low-end 4K camera is impractical because I
can't efficiently or effectively edit that video without a $9,000 computer.
Jafromobile is just not that big of a channel, and I do this completely
un-sponsored and at my own expense with the help of a handful of friends
who volunteer their talent, time and information. It's the epitome of
low-budget and what it earns still doesn't come close covering the
channel's equipment and expenses as they occur.
People have urged that I do a kickstarter, but I can't bring myself to ask
for that from the community. I don't sell a product or offer services so
there is no profit margin. I can't accept money for something that happens
only at the speed of my available resources. To me, this channel is my
proverbial gift horse to all of you.
I know what you're thinking and I realize this is a grim conclusion to this
video. It sounds like I'm down for the count, but don't rush to the down
vote button just yet. As of the upload date of this video, I'm paying out
of pocket to fix a ridiculously expensive 3CCD 1080HD broadcast quality
video camera so that these projects can resume, and so that I can bring the
final assembly steps to you in the same quality you've grown used to seeing
here on Jafromobile.
If I wear out a camera every 3 years, then so be it. This is love, and no
expense is too great. The big camera is being fixed by its manufacturer,
and I'm expecting the repair to cost as much as replacing it. I sincerely
hope that's not the case. Hopefully my production only has to take a short
break. Once production resumes and I can import these tapes, I've got some
really awesome stuff coming up and I hope every last one of you is here to
see it. I may have a few other backlogged nuggets I can upload, and as
always I'm happy to discuss this in the comments and provide updates on the
repair as I get them.
Update: Awaiting quote due by 5/16 according to the repair agreement.
5/9/2014 9:17:00 AM DELIVERED NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 5:36:00 AM DESTINATION SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/9/2014 12:04:00 AM ARRIVAL SCAN NEWPORT NEWS, VA US
5/12/2014 - Repair paid in full $440. Far less than I was expecting. I'm
glad they still make parts for 7 year old professional equipment. Thank
You Canon, USA! Repair should be complete within 7 business days from
receipt of payment. The quote only took them 24 hours and they quoted a
week just for the estimate, so at this rate I should be back up and running
once again very soon. Thank ALL of you for your kind words, HUGE
generosity, and all of the moral support. I swear I have the best
subscribers on YouTube!
Hyundai Assembly 6 - Manifolds & Turbo
I love music videos. They're so much easier to narrate. I don't want to
upset anyone by not providing commentary about what I'm doing or where this
build is going... and this is the video where all that stuff comes
together. Quite frankly, I missed you. I really enjoy these little talks
In this video is a little fabrication, maintenance, comparison and
assembly. Un-boxings, cleanup, break-fix... Variety! You know... The
stuff that keeps happening as you wrap up any build. It's not a longblock
until it has manifolds, and a turbo
build has a few more things than just that in order to make it complete.
My attention has now turned towards preparing the chassis and accessories
for installation and I promise there will be more involved videos following
this one for the hardcore auto techs. Whether you're watching or wrenching
on this one, all this stage does is create anxiety for wanting to hurry up
and finish the install, but don't rush. Do it right!
These are the non-reusable parts for the turbo install. ALL of the other part numbers in
the video were shown:
MF241255 x2 Oil Drain Bolts (upper)
MF101229 x2 Oil Drain Bolts (lower)
MF660031 x2 Oil Drain Gasket (washer)
MR258477 x2 Oil Drain Gasket (flange)
MF660064 x2 Oil Feed Crush Washer (turbo)
MF660063 x2 Oil Feed Crush Washer (head)
MF660065 x4 Coolant Crush Washer (turbo)
MD132656 x4 turbo Bolt (M10 x 80 x
MD132933 x8 turbo Spring Washers
Thank you all for keeping up with this build. Thanks especially for the
kind comments and interest in this project! You guys are the best!
2g GSX 4g63 Turbo Longblock Assembly
Freshening up the 7-bolt 4g63 for another round after the last transmission
failure. This time I installed some new goodies...
Tubular Exhaust Header
Magnus Intake Manifold
Magnus heat barrier gasket
Rebuilt 1g Throttle Body
Mirage 4g61 front case oil seal
-6AN turbo coolant lines
ARP Polished Stainless Steel fasteners
new timing belt
new accessory belts
ARP cromoly crank pulley bolts
FIC -8AN fuel rail
deleted breather port
added 2 -8AN breather ports to front of valve cover
polished aluminum EVO half-moon seal
JMFabrications coil-on-plug plate
new Chrysler coils