My 1985 Mazda GLC just started running crappy one afternoon. Wouldn't idle at all. Long story short.. what ended up fixing it was lots of hard driving and excessive revving. Sometimes I'm glad the car wasn't equipped with a tachometer... hahaha
How To Solve Honda Idle Problems - EricTheCarGuy
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Before posting questions about Honda idle problems please read this:
The viewers have chosen and this weeks video will be about solving Honda
idle problems. I'm really not surprised as I get a lot of questions and
requests about this very subject. Here are the links I promised in the
video that will help you address specific issues mentioned in the video.
How To Bleed a Cooling System
How to Check for Vacuum Leaks
Reading Check Engine Light Codes
Diagnosing an Overheat
Hopefully when your done checking all that stuff out you will have solved
your Honda's idle problem, if not leave a comment or send me a message and
I'll see what I can do just make sure you have tried all the stuff in the
videos first as that saves me from typing so much.
I also want to add my "Idle Speech" into the mix here:
There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in
the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of that
engine however here are some things to start with.
First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don't
change the wires if they are OE, if they aren't OE you might consider NGK
wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE. A quality cap and
rotor should be good. A new air filter also helps.
Don't change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there
put a Honda in, believe it or not I've seen idle issues caused by
aftermarket PCV valves, the OE's last just about forever so you can easily
justify the expense.
Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle
if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though.
While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you
feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to 'chunk' as it spins causing a
rough idle. If you think the belt has been on there for some time then
you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it's
not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack.
DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the
factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you
find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have
done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if
that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it
was before it was adjusted in the first place.
Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged
up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted
which can cause idle issues.
If you still have a 'rough' idle after all of this THEN look to the engine
mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go
for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace.
Click below and Stay Dirty
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