Porting Honda B18C


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Cylinder Head 204 - Porting & Polishing
This is a first-generation 1992 1.6L Hyundai Elantra small-combustion-chamber head. Thats what it is. It's a J1 Elantra cylinder head. Good luck finding another one like it. (read more)... In Cylinder Head 106 I talked about the mainstream porting theories as they are discussed. We looked at a cylinder head that I have thousands of dollars of professional work performed on, and a bone-stock second-generation head that I didn't port. In this video I just might do something you haven't seen done before. For some, that may be uncomfortable. The port and polish job I perform here is what I think will work best for my current build. This is not an extreme killer port job. What will be different here is where port textures are concerned, I will be following the advice of a reputable source that will remain un-named. You're free to port yours differently than I do in this video, and I give you that out, around the 20 minute marker. The Hyundai is far from being an ultimate-performance build. It's a $400 box of scraps with nothing but time invested. It's perfect for this video. My finished product WILL be an improvement over what I had. I don't yet have access to a flow bench. I still have an achievement to un-lock. As far as you should be concerned with the techniques I employ... without flow numbers there is no evidence of what this will do, but we will gather lots of info from dynp sessions and drag strip time slips. If I could test it on a flow bench, I would. There are MANY, and when I say many, I mean thousands of flame war mongering pirates floating around on rough seas with a hair trigger cannon finger itching to fire if you port a head any differently than what the herd mentality says to do while porting a cylinder head. I cover the herd mentality because it has merit. It's been tested. Tried and true. But I don't follow it to the letter of the law. I'm definitely not here to de-bunk it. I would port a cylinder head differently for each build based on how that engine was used. There's an extremely valid reason why relating to air speed. It's not the texture of a port that maximizes the effect of fuel atomization, but the velocity of the air running through an x or y sized valve. The driving factor in this is the piston speed. I'm not going to give you the technical information, but will refer you to information about the Lovell factor. There's a better description of this in the links below, and even a calculator to help you find your engine's sweet spot. Why the Lovell factor is important: https://www.highpowermedia.com/blog/3346/the-effect-of-valve-size Lovell gas factor calculator: http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/lovellgascalc.html Only people who have flow testing equipment know for sure what really works and have the capability to produce a perfectly-matched port job for the ultimate performance build. Those guys know the definition of ultimate, and THEY are floating below the water Aegis-class submarines ready to blow your comment up if you don't know what you're talking about. They don't care if you're an armchair mechanic or a herd of pirates. I will say, they're zoomed in pretty close on me right now, and I'm expecting to take a few hits. My work will be tested based on Dyno and drag strip performance, and the results will be posted here. Fortunately, those kinds of videos are a WHOLE LOT EASIER TO MAKE!!!





230 hp B18C Honda Integra Type R





VTEC ENGINE
video about how 2 rebuild a B16A2 ;)





Cylinder Head 105 - Valve Job Basics
Valves not sealing and they're not bent? This is one way to fix that problem. I have filmed a professional machinist complete a proper valve job which includes cutting new seats, installing new valves, and doing some valve grinding tricks at the following video: https://youtu.be/eMNFeToqzJU For as little as $1 per video, per month you get access to early releases, exclusive content, and discussions at: http://www.patreon.com/Jafromobile Once you've completed this work, you can clearly see the size, width, and consistency of the valve mating surface on BOTH the valve, and the seat. Should any distortion appear in the mating surfaces, you will need the help of a machinist to fix this properly. I outline the cleaning and inspection techniques to help determine whether or not you need to pay a machinist to perform an actual valve job. If you find after performing these steps that your valves don't seat properly, or that your valve seat or valve margin measurements are out of spec, only then would you need a machinist's help. Here I cover the inspection process start-to-finish. All of these same procedures would be used by your machinist, usually with better equipment... but you can still do the same thing in your garage. These techniques work exactly the same way for just about every non-rotary combustion engine. It takes patience and perseverance, but anyone can do it. Reference your service manual for your engine's specifications and service limits. Everything else that's not in your service manual is in this video. If you have bent valves, you will discover it quickly once you chuck one up in the drill. You'll see the face of the valve wobble around while it spins. You'll see evidence of this damage on the valve seat. If it's bad, you may see damage on the valve guides in the form of cracks or missing pieces where the valve guides protrude through the head ports. Give all that stuff a good visual inspection. ...and if you doubt yourself, never hesitate to get a second opinion or consult a machine shop. They will have access to expensive tools that you wont find in your average gearhead's home garage. Tools that will give better, faster, more accurate answers than someone could determine with their eyeballs when they don't own those expensive tools. Lastly: The oxidation found on these valve seats were caused by 110 octane leaded race fuel. Some kinds of race fuel are corrosive to hardened steel valve seats. This head had only about 30,000 miles on it since its last valve job. These techniques will not fix damaged valves without causing a different kind of damage. I'm sorry I had no damaged parts beyond corrosion to show you in this video.




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