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West Escondido Auto - Cleaning you fuel system

Cleaning your fuel system saves money in gas and costly repairs, advice and information. San Diego 6 "Auto Guy" Brian Bowersock http://www.westescondidoauto.com


 


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How to Properly Perform a Fuel System Cleaning
What I am showing you is the proper way to clean the fuel system of your vehicle. The vehicle in this video is a 1998 Saturn SL2 with a 1.9L DOHC engine. It has over 177K miles and is the second time a fuel system cleaning will have been performed. The last time, I had it done professionally at a local service center. After 20,000 miles, thought I would figure out how to do it myself and cheaper. Items you will need are: - Seafoam Motor Treatment (or equivalent product) - Pliers - Screwdrivers - Funnel - Self built intake cleaning hose Components of fuel system cleaning hose: - 4ft of 3/8"ID Vinyl Tubing - 1ft of 1/4"OD Polyethylene Tubing - 1/2" hose mender - 3/8" x 1/4" barb connector - 1/4"x1/8" connector - 1/4" x 1/8" needle valve All these items you should be able to find at the local hardware or plumbing shop. This is just a prototype I have created and will be refining the design as I go along. Take the needle valve and attach the 1/4" tubing to one end and the 3/8" tubing to the other. Use the 1/2" hose mender at the end of the 3/8" tubing (You will have to force it on because mender is a lot bigger than the inside diameter of the tubing) as the attachment point of the vacuum line. I will be using Seafoam Motor Treatment for this video. There are other similar products out there, but this is the one I have chosen. You will also need a throttle body cleaner as well. Both of these can be found at your local auto parts store. 1. take the Seafoam cleaner and separate it into 3 equal parts, or since it is a 16 oz bottle of this particular cleaner, I chose to separate it this way: 1. 5oz. for the fuel 2. 5oz. for the oil 3. 6oz. for the intake cleaning. 2. Disconnect vacuum hose from the brake Booster. This is the big round drum looking thing on the driver side at the rear of the engine compartment. 3. Take the intake cleaner hose you have just put together and attach the 1/2" hose mender to the vacuum line. 4. Take 5oz. and add to the fuel tank. Use a funnel to help keep the cleaner off vehicle paint. 5. Remove oil cap and pour the other 5oz. in with the oil. a. This will clean the lower end of the engine. 6. Take the bottle with the remaining cleaner fluid and poke a hole in the top so that the hose 1/4" hose can fit through. 7. Somehow have it so it is hanging above the engine and that the 3/8" tubing connected to the vacuum line is straight. 8. Make sure the needle valve is closed all the way and start the vehicle. 9. While running, slowly open the valve and allow a steady stream of cleaner to enter the engine. Don't open the valve too quickly or you will let too much cleaner in and may stall the engine. 10. Once the can is drained, turn off vehicle and let it sit for between 5-15 minutes. a. This will "Hot-soak" the engine and break up the carbon and tarnish build up. 11. Reattach the vacuum line to the brake Booster. Very important or your engine will run at higher RPM's and you may not have brakes. 12. During the wait, you can clean the throttle body by removing the intake hose from your air filter exposing the butterfly valve. Open this valve and spray in the cleaner. Make sure all surfaces are covered and let this cleaner sit and break up the build up on and behind the butterfly valve. a. DO NOT perform this step if you have a Mass airflow sensor. These are very delicate sensors and expensive to replace. Do not messed with them. b. If you want to be more thorough, take a cloth or some type of swab and manually clean off the build up that way it does not get sucked into the engine. 13. Reattach the intake hose 14. After the wait, start the engine and rev the engine to between 2000-3000 RPM to blow the buildup and cleaner out through the Exhaust. The engine is going to start rough so make sure you are ready to step on the gas to keep it running. 15. When you see that the smoke is becoming lighter, drive it for about 20 minutes to finish the process of cleaning. 16. You may see a check engine light come on, this is normal. Have someone scan it to be sure and then erase the codes. It will most likely show cylinder misfire and O2 sensor malfunction codes. If it is something else then investigate further. You have completed a complete fuel system cleaning. It is recommended on the bottle that you perform this every 2000-5000 miles. I would recommend every other oil change, or for those that drive a lot, at least twice a year. This helps maintain horsepower, and fuel efficiency. If you have not done this procedure before, it is probably a very good idea to have this done, either professionally or by yourself. Disclaimer: I am not a certified mechanic. These videos are created for informational purposes only. If you choose to attempt the procedure shown today, you do so at your own risk.





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3Mâ„¢ Fuel System Tune-Up Kit
Do-it-yourself version of one of 3M's professional fuel system cleaners. 3 part kit. Contains Instructional DVD, Intake System Cleaner, Throttle Plate Cleaner and Complete Fuel System Cleaner Features and Benefits: * Perform a professional-style fuel system cleaning at home. * About as easy to do an an oil change. * Improve fuel economy, power and performance. Buy direct from 3M: http://bit.ly/uevG4a





Power steeriing fluid facts - West Escondido Auto
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Camry Idle Air Control Valve Cleaning
This is my Father's 1999 Toyota Camry with the 3.0 liter V6 (1MZ-FE) engine. About every three years, the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve always gets clogged up causing the car to keep stalling when cold started unless the accelerator was depressed while the engine warms up. It's expensive to replace (someone quoted my dad $300) but I read that a shot of carburetor cleaner down the hole usually takes care of the problem.





Secret of Engine Problem Diagnosis- Fuel Trims Pt.2
Part 2 of 2. Actual examples of scan tool data are shown so you can test your comprehension of fuel trim data interpretation from Part 1 and make diagnoses or determine reasonable direction towards a repair without even popping the hood!




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