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95 eagle talon tsi problems. rough idle, backfires, and dies DSM 4G63

Just replaced the timing and balance shaft belts. 200 miles later it acts like it jumped time. The Exhaust is smoking because i performed a wet compression test so its burning out the tranny fluid. The engine bay is smoking because it fired up while there was no valve cover on and it covered everything in oil. alternator will not charge. Put on a new alternator and it still will not charge. compression tests good and coil packs are okay. parking lamp wires are all melted up and shorted so i have the front bumper off to access the wiring. looks like i need a new ECU. IF ANYBODY HAS ANY IDEAS PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANK YOU


 


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Compression Testing and What You Can Learn From It - EricTheCarGuy
Compression Testing and What You Can Learn From It - EricTheCarGuy Here is a video on performing a compression test on an engine to assess it's mechanical condition. An engines ability to compress air and fuel is directly proportional to it's performance since an engine is nothing more than an air compressor once you take away all the controls. A compression test is a good general test that will give you an idea of the engine's overall health but it does not give specific information on what the problem is should there be one, for that a "leak down test" would be required, here is a link to that video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc However if you find yourself looking for the source of a performance problem with an engine, this is a great place to start. This test is often overlooked in favor of looking at the fuel or ignition system, I think that's a mistake, if an engine can't perform mechanically no amount of electronics will make that better. Recently, I hit the 500 subscriber mark and I'd like to thank all of my subscribers past, present, and hopefully in the future for that. I enjoy making these videos and the fact that you seem to like watching them means a lot to me. So, thanks for subscribing, rating, and commenting, those little contributions make it all worth while. --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- Also see the video I did, "Octane Ratings and the 4 Stroke Engine Cycle" for more information on how compression works and why it is important. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VWEwEveGTQ Thanks for watching and stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





My "new" 1995 Eagle Talon (intro)
Just a brief intro to my 1995 Eagle Talon that I bought for $600.00 USD. When I bought it it had a major idle issue. It wouldn't stay running unless you kept your foot on the accelerator either in park or in gear. It was really bad in gear. (I know I said that I kept my foot on the brake in the video ... LOL) I have no plans of turning this into a race car or tuner. I want to keep it as stock as possible. Maybe some performance mods, but I really doubt it. :) Since buying it, I've replaced the IAC (Idle Air Control valve), the CPS (Cam Position Sensor), the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor). It's running a lot better, but still has an idle issue. Doing the CEL (Check Engine Light) code retrieval, it comes up with a code 11. This references the Crankshaft Position Sensor. It could be a bad unit or, since the timing belt, water pump and radiator were replaced before I got it, the timing belt could have jumped one tooth or more. I haven't gotten around to checking that yet. Hope I don't have to. LOL But I will be documenting each service or repair that I do as I work on it. I hope to be able to share what knowledge I have of this vehicle, albeit limited for now, to maybe help others who might be running into the same problems or scenarios. Let me know what y'all think. Thanks for watching. Leave a comment, suggestion or idea. - Mike





Eclipse 1995 GST Compression Test
Testing the compression of my Eclipse 1995 GST Engine. Aqui en este video estoy testeando la compresion de mi Eclipse 95 GST





How To Solve Honda Idle Problems - EricTheCarGuy
Visit me at: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/ Before posting questions about Honda idle problems please read this: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered- Here/41476-solving-honda-idle-issues-hunting-idle The viewers have chosen and this weeks video will be about solving Honda idle problems. I'm really not surprised as I get a lot of questions and requests about this very subject. Here are the links I promised in the video that will help you address specific issues mentioned in the video. How To Bleed a Cooling System http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUpXgAJ1gjU How to Check for Vacuum Leaks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9CPqbaSgcok Reading Check Engine Light Codes http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BD05sPclLyE Diagnosing an Overheat http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUzOTnsWImI Hopefully when your done checking all that stuff out you will have solved your Honda's idle problem, if not leave a comment or send me a message and I'll see what I can do just make sure you have tried all the stuff in the videos first as that saves me from typing so much. I also want to add my "Idle Speech" into the mix here: http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/8-Service-and-Repair-Questions-Answered- Here/41475-solving-honda-idle-issues-rough-idle   There are a lot of things that can contribute to an idle issue, in fact in the end it may still be there to some degree because of the nature of that engine however here are some things to start with. First start with a good tune up, use NGK or Nippon Denso plugs, don't change the wires if they are OE, if they aren't OE you might consider NGK wires as they are very good and less expensive then OE.  A quality cap and rotor should be good.  A new air filter also helps. Don't change the PCV valve, if you see an aftermarket PCV valve in there put a Honda in, believe it or not I've seen idle issues caused by aftermarket PCV valves, the OE's last just about forever so you can easily justify the expense. Next a good valve adjustment, this goes a long way to smooth out the idle if done correctly, mess it up and things can get a lot worse though. While you have the valve cover off check the timing belt tension, if you feel a lot of slack this can cause the cam to 'chunk' as it spins causing a rough idle.  If you think the belt has been on there for some time then you might consider changing it and resetting the tension properly, if it's not ready for replacement you can reset the tension to take up the slack. DO NOT adjust the idle screw under any circumstances, it is set at the factory and that is the reason it was sealed in the first place. If you find that the seal has been broken and you have a low idle and you have done all of the above then you might turn the screw out a little to see if that helps the idle but only enough to try and bring it back to where it was before it was adjusted in the first place. Last clean the screen in the Idle Air Control valve, this can get clogged up with carbon over time and cause the flow through it to be restricted which can cause idle issues. If you still have a 'rough' idle after all of this THEN look to the engine mounts as you want to be sure the engine is running correctly before you go for those as the one in the back is a real pain to replace. --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





97 Eclipse GSX Problem/HORRIBLE sound - FOUND THE PROBLEM-
UPDATE: I found the problem, my oil pump sprocket had broken into a couple pieces and was grinding against the oil pump. The engine may be toast, I don't know yet. This is my 97 eclipse GSX. I just finished a 6 bolt swap with a brand new block, forged pistons, eagle rods. I've been "babying" it every time I drive it and plan to for 500 miles. its up to 70 miles and this noise just started. It has plenty of fluids, running mobil 1 synthetic and even a can of engine restorer to stop some ticking i had earlier. First off, when I start it up the idle wants to be really low so I have to give it gas for a couple seconds for the idle to stabilize. Second and more importantly, there's this horrible noise that just started yesterday while driving 30 mph down the street. Any help is greatly appreciated.





How To Find A Vacuum Leak - EricTheCarGuy
Vacuum leaks are one of the biggest causes of engine performance problems. This video is pretty straight forward in it's approach to finding a vacuum leak. On thing I might mention is that not all vacuum leaks are at the engine. Some HVAC systems run on engine vacuum and can cause a leak under the dash in some cases. I've even seen vacuum operated door locks. Just be sure to be careful spraying flammable stuff on a hot engine, you don't want to take one problem and make it a whole lot worse. You can also use a spray bottle with water to do this same test. It may not be as effective, but you don't have to worry about spraying a flammable substance on a hot engine. For more information on diagnosing engine performance issues, check out this article I wrote. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-automotive-performance-issues The best place for answers to your automotive questions: http://www.ericthecarguy.com Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy?fref=ts Twitter: https://twitter.com/EricTheCarGuy Google+: https://plus.google.com/100195180196698058780/posts Information on Premium Membership: https://www.ericthecarguy.com/premium-content-streaming-etcg-content Stay Dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





ILL EAGLE Talon TSi AWD Full Restoration 2gb 6bolt Swap/Suede Leather Interior/ New Paint
Over the last year I have fully restored my Talon TSi AWD.





the4g63shop.com 92 eagle Talon 746awhp
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1991 Eagle Talon
1991 EAGLE TALON TSI AWD GARRET G35 BALL BEARING turbo RATED @ 650HP 38 MM turbo SMART WASTE GATE... GREDDY BLOW OFF VALVE CUSTOM MADE 2 1/2 INCH Intercooler PIPING LARGE FROM MOUNT Intercooler T turbo MANIFOLD 3 INCH Exhaust turbo BACK 2 BOSCH FUEL PUMPS ONE IN THE TANK AND ONE ON THE LINE 900CC INJECTORS BRAIDED FUEL LINE FROM TANK TO FUEL RAIL AND BACK FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR ARIAS FORGED PISTONS RATED @ 800 HORSE POWER COMETIC HEAD GASGET ARP HEAD STUDS PORT AND POLISHED HEAD EUROTHEYNE ENGINE MOUNTS AND SUSPENSION BUSHINGS ACT CLUCTCH WITH 26LBS KYB ADJUSTABLE STRUTS 1.75 INCH DROP LOWERING SPRINGS FRONT UPPER STRUT BAR CUSTOM VALVE COVER SUPER AFC APEXI NEO UPGRADED FRONT BRAKES WITH 2 PISTON CALIPERS REAR END FROM A 92 TALON, LIGHTS AND BUMPER CURRENTLY RUNNING @ 26 POUNDS OF Boost ESTIMATED @ 400HP MOMO RACING SEATS MOMO STEARING WHEEL AND HUB NEW ALTERNATOR AND NEW BATTERY CAR ALSO COMES WITH EXTRA TRANSMISSION, TRANSFERCASE AND STOCK RIMS. CONTACT TOM 416-856-5018 ASKING $5,000





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Project Import: Mitsubishi Evo Balance Shaft Belt Missing Teeth
Customer stated a noise coming from the timing area of the engine, as you can see the cover is removed. Inspecting all of the components, the balance shaft belt has gone completely bare, all of the teeth from the belt are gone. balance shaft still spins by hand. but after replacing belt heard bearing noise from rear balance shaft. Ordering replacement ams block. look forward to next video





1069 whp Eagle Talon VS 1089 whp Mitsubishi Eclipse
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2015 Jaguar F-Type Coupe R vs. 2014 Porsche 911 50th Anniversary Edition - Head 2 Head Ep. 55
On this episode of Head 2 Head, two of the best driver's cars on the market face off. The 550-horsepower Jaguar F-Type Coupe R and 430-horsepower Porsche 911 50th Anniversary Edition both have carbon ceramic brakes, active dampers, and active differentials, and both are rear-drive. Both are intent on making driving enjoyable and rewarding. But which one does it best? Watch and find out! Head 2 Head appears every fourth Wednesday on the Motor Trend channel. http://www.youtube.com/motortrend Subscribe now to make sure you don't miss any of the action! http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsAegdhiYLEoaFGuJFVrqFQ?sub_confirmation=1 Facebook - http://facebook.com/motortrendmag & https://www.facebook.com/head2headshow Twitter - http://twitter.com/motortrend & https://twitter.com/head2headshow Google+ - https://plus.google.com/+motortrend/posts Instagram - head2headshow Website - http://www.motortrend.com




Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?





Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

1992 Eagle Talon Tsi: 7.961 @ 171.100
Kevin Jewer, Engine: 2.0 4G63, Turbos: Forced Performance 99HTZ Tires: MT 29.5 x 10.5


1990 Eagle Talon tsi: 7.976 @ 179.060
john shepherd, Engine: 2.2L, Turbos: T4 Garret turbo built by Forced Performance Tires: Hoosier DOT 26X8X16


1991 Eagle Talon : 8.802 @ 155.900
Kevin Jewer, Engine: 4g63, Turbos: Borg Warner S475 & Garrett T3 50 Trim


1991 Eagle Talon Talon Tsi RWD: 8.960 @ 149.910
Scott Glassbrook, Engine: 2.3 liter 4g63, Turbos: GT4202 Tires: M/T


1991 Eagle Talon TSi Awd: 10.460 @ 137.800
Susio Ranna, Engine: 2.0L Mitsubishi 4g63, Turbos: ported/clipped 20g


91 Eagle Talon : 10.720 @ 131.020
John Shepherd, Turbos: 20g Tires: nitto


1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: 10.721 @ 138.080
Mike, Engine: 2.0L 4G63, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: Precision GT3582R Tires: 215-45-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3


1990 Eagle Talon TSi FWD: 10.727 @ 142.120
Rob McKellar, Engine: 4G63, Turbos: Precision 56


1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: 10.806 @ 133.150
Nate Burgess, Engine: 2.0, Turbos: T-3 61mm


1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: 10.846 @ 127.850
Loren Hill, Engine: 2.3l, Turbos: FP3065 Tires: 235/45-17


1995 Eagle Talon Tsi Awd: 10.970 @ 132.990
Philippe Sauve, Engine: 1g 6 bolt, Turbos: Borg Warner s362et Tires: MT Et Street Drag Radial 26in


1991 Eagle Talon TSI: 11.160 @ 129.000
Jacob Chamberlain, Engine: 2.4, Turbos: GTK 1000 Tires: 225/45/17 conti


1996 Eagle Talon tsi fwd: 11.171 @ 129.720
Eric Cavalieri, Engine: 2.0, Turbos: fp red


1992 Eagle Talon : 11.467 @ 121.460
Greg Clayton, Engine: 2.0, Turbos: 20G


1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD: 11.554 @ 129.630
PrimedTsi, Engine: Magnus 2.4l, Turbos: T67/T3 Tires: Street Radials


1992 Eagle Talon AWD: 11.582 @ 116.990
Chris Tichy, Engine: 2.0, Turbos: Mitsubishi 16g Tires: Retreaded Race Compo


1991 Eagle Talon : 11.700 @ 123.300
mohamed taheri(driver) sean robb(new owner), Engine: 2 liter w/ slight over bore, Turbos: 20g ported Tires: crappy ass


1990 Eagle Talon : 11.790 @ 116.970
Lowell Foo, Engine: 2.0, Turbos: Frank stage 3 Tires: 205/55/16 BFG VR4


1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD: 11.796 @ 117.640
Hector Cabrera, Engine: 2.0 Turbo (121 ci), Turbos: 20G/td-06h 7cm Tires: Falken 225/50's


1990 Eagle Talon : 11.800 @ 121.000
noel, Engine: 4g63, Turbos: t3/t4 Tires: 225/50/16


 


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