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95 eagle talon tsi problems. rough idle, backfires, and dies DSM 4G63

Just replaced the timing and balance shaft belts. 200 miles later it acts like it jumped time. The Exhaust is smoking because i performed a wet compression test so its burning out the tranny fluid. The engine bay is smoking because it fired up while there was no valve cover on and it covered everything in oil. alternator will not charge. Put on a new alternator and it still will not charge. compression tests good and coil packs are okay. parking lamp wires are all melted up and shorted so i have the front bumper off to access the wiring. looks like i need a new ECU. IF ANYBODY HAS ANY IDEAS PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANK YOU


 


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97 Eclipse GSX Problem/HORRIBLE sound - FOUND THE PROBLEM-
UPDATE: I found the problem, my oil pump sprocket had broken into a couple pieces and was grinding against the oil pump. The engine may be toast, I don't know yet. This is my 97 eclipse GSX. I just finished a 6 bolt swap with a brand new block, forged pistons, eagle rods. I've been "babying" it every time I drive it and plan to for 500 miles. its up to 70 miles and this noise just started. It has plenty of fluids, running mobil 1 synthetic and even a can of engine restorer to stop some ticking i had earlier. First off, when I start it up the idle wants to be really low so I have to give it gas for a couple seconds for the idle to stabilize. Second and more importantly, there's this horrible noise that just started yesterday while driving 30 mph down the street. Any help is greatly appreciated.





My "new" 1995 Eagle Talon (intro)
Just a brief intro to my 1995 Eagle Talon that I bought for $600.00 USD. When I bought it it had a major idle issue. It wouldn't stay running unless you kept your foot on the accelerator either in park or in gear. It was really bad in gear. (I know I said that I kept my foot on the brake in the video ... LOL) I have no plans of turning this into a race car or tuner. I want to keep it as stock as possible. Maybe some performance mods, but I really doubt it. :) Since buying it, I've replaced the IAC (Idle Air Control valve), the CPS (Cam Position Sensor), the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor). It's running a lot better, but still has an idle issue. Doing the CEL (Check Engine Light) code retrieval, it comes up with a code 11. This references the Crankshaft Position Sensor. It could be a bad unit or, since the timing belt, water pump and radiator were replaced before I got it, the timing belt could have jumped one tooth or more. I haven't gotten around to checking that yet. Hope I don't have to. LOL But I will be documenting each service or repair that I do as I work on it. I hope to be able to share what knowledge I have of this vehicle, albeit limited for now, to maybe help others who might be running into the same problems or scenarios. Let me know what y'all think. Thanks for watching. Leave a comment, suggestion or idea. - Mike





How To Perform a Compression Test - EricTheCarGuy
Compression Testing and What You Can Learn From It - EricTheCarGuy Here is a video on performing a compression test on an engine to assess it's mechanical condition. An engines ability to compress air and fuel is directly proportional to it's performance since an engine is nothing more than an air compressor once you take away all the controls. A compression test is a good general test that will give you an idea of the engine's overall health but it does not give specific information on what the problem is should there be one, for that a "leak down test" would be required, here is a link to that video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc However if you find yourself looking for the source of a performance problem with an engine, this is a great place to start. This test is often overlooked in favor of looking at the fuel or ignition system, I think that's a mistake, if an engine can't perform mechanically no amount of electronics will make that better. Recently, I hit the 500 subscriber mark and I'd like to thank all of my subscribers past, present, and hopefully in the future for that. I enjoy making these videos and the fact that you seem to like watching them means a lot to me. So, thanks for subscribing, rating, and commenting, those little contributions make it all worth while. --- Click below and Stay Dirty Visit me at EricTheCarGuy.com http://ericthecarguy.com/ Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum http://www.ericthecarguy.com/forum/default.aspx Visit my Facebook Page: http://www.facebook.com/EricTheCarGuy --- Also see the video I did, "Octane Ratings and the 4 Stroke Engine Cycle" for more information on how compression works and why it is important. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8VWEwEveGTQ Thanks for watching and stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.





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This is my 92 eagle talon non-turbo 2.0L. I HAD two problems that are concerning me. first the engine WOULD not rev past 4,000 unless i unplug the airflow meter, but then the check engine light will be on, i've replaced the sensor. Also the engine runs better when the ignition timing is way off. I FIXED THE PROBLEM. It was the ECU





Mitsubishi Eclipse History 1990-2012
HISTÓRIA Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990-2012: 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS turbo 2.0 16v 192 hp 280 Nm 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1990 Plymouth Laser 1990 Plymouth Laser & Tina Turner 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse @ 2009 12 Rounds 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse & 3000 GT 1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS turbo 2.0 16v 190 hp 280 Nm 1992 Eagle Talon TSi 2.0 turbo 195 hp 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2.0 16v 192 hp 1992 Mitsubishi Eclipse & 3000 GT 1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS turbo 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T 2.0 207 hp 290 Nm 1994 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX turbo AWD 1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST @ 2001 The Fast and The Furious 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST mini by ERTL from 2001 The Fast and The Furious 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1996 Eagle Talon ESi 2.0 141 hp 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse Convertible 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse @ 2008-2009 Knight Rider 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GST Spyder 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX 1997 Mitsubishi Eclipse 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse SST Concept on 20" Aut4 2.0 turbo 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse EV Electric Vehicle Concept 135 hp 250 Nm 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 on 17" 3.0 207 hp 280 Nm 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse mini by Jada 2002 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder @ 2 Fast 2 Furious 2003 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 2004 Mitsubishi Eclipse AWD Concept E 3.8 Hybrid V6 273 hp+Electric 202 hp 2004 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder mini by ERTL 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse Ralliart Concept on 20" 2.0 turbo 400 hp 2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 2006 Mitsubishi Eclipse mini by Norev 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 2007 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder 2008 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6 on 18" 3.8 266 hp 360 Nm 2010 Mitsubishi Eclipse 2010 Mitsubishi Eclipse Spyder GT 2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS Sport 2011 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS 2012 Mitsubishi Eclipse SE 2015 All New Mitsubishi Eclipse R Concept by Steel Drake Find us on https://www.facebook.com/pages/Carwp/505636076134244 DOWNLOAD IMAGES: http://CARWP.com.br Royalty Free Music by http://audiomicro.com/royalty-free-music Sound Effects by http://audiomicro.com/sound-effects





6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement Part 2
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Eagle Talon AWD Turbo Upgrade - Part Two
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11 second DSM
Finally put the car into the 11's!!!! Mitsubishi GS-T converted to AWD. Below is the COMPLETE modifications list from bumper to bumper... Bolt-on Modifications: FP HTA68 ▫ FP intake ▫ tial q bov ▫ 1g NA tb ▫ BJ's SMIM ▫ VRS fmic 28.5"x10"x3.5" ▫ 2.5" short route IC piping ▫ FIC 950's ▫ walbro 255 fp (STM rewire) ▫ proclassic -6AN from tank to rail ▫ fuelab fuel filter (metal) ▫ 1g fuel rail ▫ fuelab afpr (55psi) ▫ 2g Exhaust manifold (ported) ▫ PR externally gated o2 housing dumped ▫ tial 38mm wastegate with a .9 bar spring ▫ apexi gt 3" cat delete dp ▫ HKS hi power catback Exhaust ▫ hallman mbc ▫ nology hotwires ▫ prothane motor mounts ▫ mishimoto radiator ▫ (1) SPAL 12" push fan ▫ optima red top ▫ RRE oil catch can ▫ '99 black leather interior ▫ cf headliner ▫ cf turbo spoiler Engine Management: ecmlink (V3) Speed Density ▫ AEM UEGO wideband (rear o2 location) ▫ AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor ▫ GM IAT ▫ autometer Boost gauge ▫ HKS type 1 tt Engine Internals: E-85 ▫ fp2 cams ▫ Evo IX valve springs & retainers ▫ engnbldr SS valves ▫ engnbldr bronze valve guides ▫ topline revised lifters ▫ ARP head studs (tq to 90ft lbs) ▫ mitsu composite headgasket (copper sprayed) ▫ stock 7-bolt bottom end with 100k Drivetrain Modifications: AWD GS-T ▫ automatic tranny converted to 5 speed manual ▫ ACT 2600 clutch ▫ ACT chromoly flywheel ▫ evo X gsr shift knob ▫ B&M short shifter ▫ symborski shift kit ▫ SS full clutch line ▫ slave cylinder extension rod Suspension Modifications: GSX brake conversion ▫ ss brake lines ▫ eibach sportline springs (changed to prokit march '10) ▫ tokico 5 way adjustable gas shocks ▫ front & rear RMDSM sway bars ▫ RRE front strut tower brace ▫ DC sport rear strut tower brace ▫ matte black evo IX wheels wrapped with 245/40/17 bridgestone potenza RE760's





Whats wrong with my 4G63 7bolt?
I came up to a light and my idle air controller is going bad so the RPM's dropped to 100 (usually come back up) but wen't all the way down to 0 and stalled itself out in neutral... after pulling the MAF sensor, the IAC, and resetting the ECU nothing changed... When you try to start the car, the accesory belts turn, but the timing belt does not. There is spark, and there is fuel, but the car doesn't want to turn over. I was told that it could be the timing belt is completely stripped from teeth on the crank, all the way up to hearing that a piston could be jammed... No idea. PLEASE HELP!!!





DSM vs PORSCHE
eagle talon tsi awd vs porsche porsche gets 4 car lead still looses





the4g63shop.com 92 eagle Talon 746awhp
the4g63shop.com 92 eagle Talon 746awhp





Engine coolant system and compression testing
There are lots of ways to diagnose a head gasket or to check the general health of an engine, but this video is focusing on 3 major systems. 1) The coolant system 2) The combustion chamber 3) The valvetrain COOLANT SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST: The boiling point of water (coolant) RISES under pressure. It's imperative that the coolant system has NO AIR in it, no leaks, a known-good thermostat, and a good radiator cap in order to function properly. If the pressure stamped on your radiator cap is not being achieved, Boyle's law is not taking affect, and your coolant will boil when the car is being driven at it's normal operating temperature, and may exhibit signs of a blown head gasket. Many have cursed the process of burping all the air out, sometimes even taking several days and heat cycles to complete the process. COMPRESSION TEST: The point of a compression test is to diagnose the health of each combustion chamber. A compression test is a crude test to determine if a ring, valve seal, valve, or a head gasket problem exists. It will show immediately in this test because the gauge will not rise to the pressure specified for your engine. There are 3 numbers you need regarding your car's setup. High limit, Low Limit and Range. The high limit is specified by your car's manufacturer and reflects the equipment they used to build the engine. If you EXCEED the high limit, chances are it's caused by excessive carbon build-up, and a Seafoam or MCCC treatment will usually remove the carbon and return it to an acceptable value. If that build-up isn't caused by cheap gas, then it's likely the car has an EGR problem or excessive oil blow-by leading to this situation. The Low Limit represents the point in which the combustion chamber is not able to compress the engine's specified fuel to the point where it can ignite it. Gasoline and air need to be compressed together in order for the energy stored in that fuel to be released. If it isn't achieved, it will only burn, and not explode. Lower-than-Low Limit pressure means it's time to rebuild the engine because one of the sealing components in the combustion chamber has failed or is in need of servicing. Either way, it's expensive because working on the combustion chamber requires extensive disassembly or unusual tools that the average mechanic doesn't have. Range specifies how many PSI of variance there can be between ALL of your compression numbers. If there's a large variance on one cylinder, then the engine will not run smoothly. If a cylinder is below spec, it may feel like a misfire even though the plug is getting spark. If all the values are close, the engine idles and revs more smoothly. Aftermarket cams, pistons, head gaskets or machining will affect the results of your tests. A higher compression piston or thinner head gasket can raise the compression numbers slightly. A thicker head gasket or longer-duration cams will lower compression slightly. I don't know how to determine exact numbers because I'm not an engineer, but you should remember that during testing if your engine is modified. So in a nutshell, you want your numbers to be close and between the high and low limits. If a test fails, the only way to determine WHAT failed is to perform a leakdown test. Modifications to the factory internals or machining WILL change the OEM compression limit values, but NOT the range value. LEAKDOWN TEST: I'm not using a real leakdown tester in this video. A real leakdown tester has a regulator, a pressure gauge, a restrictor, and another pressure gauge. You measure the value of the post-restrictor gauge vs. the regulated supply and mark the percentage of pressure-drop. As a general rule, most cars are healthy around a 20% value. Race engines should be between 1-10% for highest performance. I'm using the ghetto method for this test. Get the piston roughly at Top Dead Center, apply air pressure, fine tune TDC for that piston by turning the crank with a wrench to see if you can stop all of the airflow. Listen to the intake for leaking air to determine if there's a bad intake valve. Listen to the tailpipe for leaking Exhaust valves. If neither are leaking, but air is still flowing, remove the tool and pour a cap of oil into the spark plug hole so that it coats the rings to make a better seal. After oiling, re-install the tool and repeat the test to see if you get better results. If you do, you have bad rings. If you don't, you have bad valve stem seals, a blown head gasket, or a cracked head. If you have a cracked head or bad head gasket, then there will likely be pressure venting through your coolant system. Taking off the radiator cap and watching for air rising to the filler neck will point you in the right direction.





4g63 engine noise (FIXED)
Can anyone tell me what that noise is? (I think it's the Silent Shaft rod). It's strongest between 2000-3000 rpm and over 4000 it's not that loud (idle speed the same thing). I don't have a generator and power steering on, so idle is higher right now (1300rpm). Many Thanks to you all!! (FIXED) In the end it was a bad timing belt tensioner what made that noise.





Which car is faster? Which Car is Faster?




Similar 1/4 mile timeslips to browse:

1992 Eagle Talon Tsi: 7.961 @ 171.100
Kevin Jewer, Engine: 2.0 4G63, Turbos: Forced Performance 99HTZ Tires: MT 29.5 x 10.5


1990 Eagle Talon tsi: 7.976 @ 179.060
john shepherd, Engine: 2.2L, Turbos: T4 Garret turbo built by Forced Performance Tires: Hoosier DOT 26X8X16


1991 Eagle Talon : 8.802 @ 155.900
Kevin Jewer, Engine: 4g63, Turbos: Borg Warner S475 & Garrett T3 50 Trim


1994 Eagle Talon TSi: 8.930 @ 146.000
Deric Dupey, Engine: 2.0L (JE Pistons/Manely Rods), Turbos: Forced Performance 3586HTA Tires: Hoosier QTP


1991 Eagle Talon Talon Tsi RWD: 8.960 @ 149.910
Scott Glassbrook, Engine: 2.3 liter 4g63, Turbos: GT4202 Tires: M/T


1991 Eagle Talon TSi Awd: 10.460 @ 137.800
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91 Eagle Talon : 10.720 @ 131.020
John Shepherd, Turbos: 20g Tires: nitto


1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: 10.721 @ 138.080
Mike, Engine: 2.0L 4G63, Supercharger: N/A Turbos: Precision GT3582R Tires: 215-45-17 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS D3


1990 Eagle Talon TSi FWD: 10.727 @ 142.120
Rob McKellar, Engine: 4G63, Turbos: Precision 56


1991 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: 10.806 @ 133.150
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1992 Eagle Talon TSI AWD: 10.846 @ 127.850
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1995 Eagle Talon Tsi Awd: 10.970 @ 132.990
Philippe Sauve, Engine: 1g 6 bolt, Turbos: Borg Warner s362et Tires: MT Et Street Drag Radial 26in


1991 Eagle Talon TSI: 11.160 @ 129.000
Jacob Chamberlain, Engine: 2.4, Turbos: GTK 1000 Tires: 225/45/17 conti


1996 Eagle Talon tsi fwd: 11.171 @ 129.720
Eric Cavalieri, Engine: 2.0, Turbos: fp red


1992 Eagle Talon : 11.467 @ 121.460
Greg Clayton, Engine: 2.0, Turbos: 20G


1995 Eagle Talon TSi AWD: 11.554 @ 129.630
PrimedTsi, Engine: Magnus 2.4l, Turbos: T67/T3 Tires: Street Radials


1992 Eagle Talon AWD: 11.582 @ 116.990
Chris Tichy, Engine: 2.0, Turbos: Mitsubishi 16g Tires: Retreaded Race Compo


1991 Eagle Talon : 11.700 @ 123.300
mohamed taheri(driver) sean robb(new owner), Engine: 2 liter w/ slight over bore, Turbos: 20g ported Tires: crappy ass


1990 Eagle Talon : 11.790 @ 116.970
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1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD: 11.796 @ 117.640
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