95 eagle talon tsi problems. rough idle, backfires, and dies DSM 4G63
Just replaced the timing and balance shaft belts. 200 miles later it acts like it jumped time. The Exhaust is smoking because i performed a wet compression test so its burning out the tranny fluid. The engine bay is smoking because it fired up while there was no valve cover on and it covered everything in oil. alternator will not charge. Put on a new alternator and it still will not charge. compression tests good and coil packs are okay. parking lamp wires are all melted up and shorted so i have the front bumper off to access the wiring. looks like i need a new ECU. IF ANYBODY HAS ANY IDEAS PLEASE LET ME KNOW THANK YOU
97 Eclipse GSX Problem/HORRIBLE sound - FOUND THE PROBLEM-
UPDATE: I found the problem, my oil pump sprocket had broken into a couple
pieces and was grinding against the oil pump. The engine may be toast, I
don't know yet.
This is my 97 eclipse GSX. I just finished a 6 bolt swap with a brand new
block, forged pistons, eagle rods. I've been "babying" it every time I
drive it and plan to for 500 miles. its up to 70 miles and this noise just
started. It has plenty of fluids, running mobil 1 synthetic and even a can
of engine restorer to stop some ticking i had earlier.
First off, when I start it up the idle wants to be really low so I have to
give it gas for a couple seconds for the idle to stabilize.
Second and more importantly, there's this horrible noise that just started
yesterday while driving 30 mph down the street. Any help is greatly
My "new" 1995 Eagle Talon (intro)
Just a brief intro to my 1995 Eagle Talon that I bought for $600.00 USD.
When I bought it it had a major idle issue. It wouldn't stay running unless
you kept your foot on the accelerator either in park or in gear. It was
really bad in gear. (I know I said that I kept my foot on the brake in the
video ... LOL)
I have no plans of turning this into a race car or tuner. I want to keep it
as stock as possible. Maybe some performance mods, but I really doubt it.
Since buying it, I've replaced the IAC (Idle Air Control valve), the CPS
(Cam Position Sensor), the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and the MAP
(Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor).
It's running a lot better, but still has an idle issue.
Doing the CEL (Check Engine Light) code retrieval, it comes up with a code
11. This references the Crankshaft Position Sensor. It could be a bad unit
or, since the timing belt, water pump and radiator were replaced before I
got it, the timing belt could have jumped one tooth or more.
I haven't gotten around to checking that yet. Hope I don't have to. LOL
But I will be documenting each service or repair that I do as I work on it.
I hope to be able to share what knowledge I have of this vehicle, albeit
limited for now, to maybe help others who might be running into the same
problems or scenarios.
Let me know what y'all think.
Thanks for watching. Leave a comment, suggestion or idea.
92 Eagle talon Problems. (I FIXED IT)
This is my 92 eagle talon non-turbo
2.0L. I HAD two problems that are concerning me. first the engine WOULD
not rev past 4,000 unless i unplug the airflow meter, but then the check
engine light will be on, i've replaced the sensor. Also the engine runs
better when the ignition timing is way off. I FIXED THE PROBLEM. It was
Whats wrong with my 4G63 7bolt?
I came up to a light and my idle air controller is going bad so the RPM's
dropped to 100 (usually come back up) but wen't all the way down to 0 and
stalled itself out in neutral... after pulling the MAF sensor, the IAC, and
resetting the ECU nothing changed... When you try to start the car, the
accesory belts turn, but the timing belt does not. There is spark, and
there is fuel, but the car doesn't want to turn over. I was told that it
could be the timing belt is completely stripped from teeth on the crank,
all the way up to hearing that a piston could be jammed... No idea. PLEASE
Crooked Alternator Diagnosis
Got belt problems? Watch this video. Common issue on Mitsubishis. If you
find your tensioner frequently coming loose, if you have belt squeal
issues, if you kick your alternator belt off doing high RPM shifts, this
video was made for you. This is the first of a 2-part series.
What I do here is take my car apart to confirm the problem, and so you can
see it. Because the alternator is supported by a soft cast-aluminum piece
of the oil filter housing, because the hole is significantly larger than
the bolt, and because the bolt is rough hardened steel... a common failure
occurs over time that can lead to all kinds of belt problems. This video
demonstrates what you're likely to find if the issues in the top paragraph
Tools used in disassembly. 10mm, 12mm, 13mm gear wrenches and a deep-well
12mm socket (just the socket). I used a mini-pry bar briefly to free the
lower alternator bolt.
6-Bolt Mitsubishi Timing Belt Replacement
Video made my Chrysler for the Eagle Talon and Plymouth Laser demonstrating
how-to replace the timing belt on the 2.0L i4 DOHC (8-Bolt) Mitsubishi
Sorry, part of the video was cut.
DSM vs PORSCHE
eagle talon tsi awd vs porsche
porsche gets 4 car lead still looses
Engine coolant system and compression testing
There are lots of ways to diagnose a head gasket or to check the general
health of an engine, but this video is focusing on 3 major systems.
1) The coolant system
2) The combustion chamber
3) The valvetrain
COOLANT SYSTEM PRESSURE TEST:
The boiling point of water (coolant) RISES under pressure. It's imperative
that the coolant system has NO AIR in it, no leaks, a known-good
thermostat, and a good radiator cap in order to function properly. If the
pressure stamped on your radiator cap is not being achieved, Boyle's law is
not taking affect, and your coolant will boil when the car is being driven
at it's normal operating temperature, and may exhibit signs of a blown head
gasket. Many have cursed the process of burping all the air out, sometimes
even taking several days and heat cycles to complete the process.
The point of a compression test is to diagnose the health of each
combustion chamber. A compression test is a crude test to determine if a
ring, valve seal, valve, or a head gasket problem exists. It will show
immediately in this test because the gauge will not rise to the pressure
specified for your engine. There are 3 numbers you need regarding your
High limit, Low Limit and Range.
The high limit is specified by your car's manufacturer and reflects the
equipment they used to build the engine. If you EXCEED the high limit,
chances are it's caused by excessive carbon build-up, and a Seafoam or MCCC
treatment will usually remove the carbon and return it to an acceptable
value. If that build-up isn't caused by cheap gas, then it's likely the
car has an EGR problem or excessive oil blow-by leading to this situation.
The Low Limit represents the point in which the combustion chamber is not
able to compress the engine's specified fuel to the point where it can
ignite it. Gasoline and air need to be compressed together in order for
the energy stored in that fuel to be released. If it isn't achieved, it
will only burn, and not explode. Lower-than-Low Limit pressure means it's
time to rebuild the engine because one of the sealing components in the
combustion chamber has failed or is in need of servicing. Either way, it's
expensive because working on the combustion chamber requires extensive
disassembly or unusual tools that the average mechanic doesn't have.
Range specifies how many PSI of variance there can be between ALL of your
compression numbers. If there's a large variance on one cylinder, then the
engine will not run smoothly. If a cylinder is below spec, it may feel
like a misfire even though the plug is getting spark. If all the values
are close, the engine idles and revs more smoothly.
Aftermarket cams, pistons, head gaskets or machining will affect the
results of your tests. A higher compression piston or thinner head gasket
can raise the compression numbers slightly. A thicker head gasket or
longer-duration cams will lower compression slightly. I don't know how to
determine exact numbers because I'm not an engineer, but you should
remember that during testing if your engine is modified.
So in a nutshell, you want your numbers to be close and between the high
and low limits. If a test fails, the only way to determine WHAT failed is
to perform a leakdown test. Modifications to the factory internals or
machining WILL change the OEM compression limit values, but NOT the range
I'm not using a real leakdown tester in this video. A real leakdown tester
has a regulator, a pressure gauge, a restrictor, and another pressure
gauge. You measure the value of the post-restrictor gauge vs. the
regulated supply and mark the percentage of pressure-drop. As a general
rule, most cars are healthy around a 20% value. Race engines should be
between 1-10% for highest performance.
I'm using the ghetto method for this test. Get the piston roughly at Top
Dead Center, apply air pressure, fine tune TDC for that piston by turning
the crank with a wrench to see if you can stop all of the airflow. Listen
to the intake for leaking air to determine if there's a bad intake valve.
Listen to the tailpipe for leaking Exhaust valves. If neither are leaking, but air
is still flowing, remove the tool and pour a cap of oil into the spark plug
hole so that it coats the rings to make a better seal. After oiling,
re-install the tool and repeat the test to see if you get better results.
If you do, you have bad rings. If you don't, you have bad valve stem
seals, a blown head gasket, or a cracked head. If you have a cracked head
or bad head gasket, then there will likely be pressure venting through your
coolant system. Taking off the radiator cap and watching for air rising to
the filler neck will point you in the right direction.