Model S Door Handle switch flexible harness upgrade any door for Sale

Price: $44

This item has been shown 4178 times.

A reliable, durable dual strand switch harness kit for your Tesla door handle that should have been in your production vehicle. Upgrade now to stop sudden harness failures. For one door, any door.

A flexible ribbon wire carefully soldered then EPOXY coated onto the waterproof OEM original genuine switch makes a Tesla door handle much more reliable. These wires are made to bend and flex. Don't leave home without it. The stiff OEM factory wires could break on you when it pours or when the deep freeze hits, especially if they're older than 4 - 5 years. This is not the time for you to work on your door or crawl into the driver seat from the passenger side. As excited as I am when technology fails, I can't and won't unscrew a single bolt during a deep freeze - I doubt you want that experience. Not to mention a failed harness could damage the paddle gear or the more expensive motor gear. Lower price and longer life than what you get from Tesla.
  • Updated solder scheme and dual flex ribbon wires (10 solder joint per switch for max. reliability. All solder joints are epoxied. Soldered at under 1 seconds.)
  • Waterproof genuine OEM switch, waterproof solder joints
  • Plug-in red adhesive lined heat shrink tube, DeOxIt coated pins (signal booster)

Our thin copper ribbon can flex without breaking while thicker round wires won't. Double ribbon prevents kinking, wobbling in the wind and increase reliability. They can be kinked and crease folded.. Best choice compared to other Tesla switches or Tesla aftermarket switch harness.

Water proofing is important, so our connector also offers adhesive lined shrink plastic. Submersible Outperforms OEM.

Kit contains:
  • 1 set brand new micro switch flat ribbon flexible harness (9" long and 15" long) The longer one is for the limit switch. The other one is for the latch switch.
  • 2 zip ties
  • All weather 10-mil tapes (10mm x 50mm)
  • Update notes and diagrams
*Technical details: Micro switch is the same as the Tesla genuine factory switch. Dual ribbon flex wires with 20 durable solder joints total with rigid epoxy backing. Each solder joints are kept under a second on a low wattage iron, so you know your switch will last. Don't buy it elsewhere unless you know it's done right so it will last.. Flexible ribbon brand is AWM, about the same type found in desktop scanners, some printers. 5mm X 250mm, 1/4" x 9.2" approximate. 5mm X 150mm, 1/4" x 15" approximate.

FITMENTS: Works on any of the Tesla S door handles where there is a blue micro-switch you can swap out.Does not fit 2012 passenger door or passenger rear door. Make a request so we send one that does.

A bad switch wiring story

In the rush to get the Tesla model S to market, Tesla found an off-the-shelf switch with a harness already spot weld to it. These were design for a static environment only, as stated on the switch's technical manual. Assembled to a Tesla connector then sold for $40. To make matters worse, the wires were incorrectly routed on the door handle. The wires were cut too short to reroute well. Wires were also breaking at the spot welds. The copper strands weren't thin strands, making them not ideal for rerouting. Ultimately, they are as stiff as a rock.

  1. Pulling on door handle wont unlatch. (for 2012 version, this symptom could also be related to an out of adjustment limit switch screw - please adjust it after the switch replacement.)
  2. Paddle gear breaks. Motor gears broken off. Motor winding noise is heard but doesn't present.
  3. Handle extends too far...(for 2012 version, this symptom could be related to an out of adjustment limit switch screw - please adjust it after the replacement.)


  • The paddle gear breaks when the OEM wires momentarily separates during a whether change or at the end of its life of 4 years.
  • The break occurs in four possible areas. Spot weld, top of wire's bell curve and bottom of bell curves (or the wire's joints).
  • The switch harness will test okay yet may fail again unexpectedly.
  • For the 2012 version, the harness may break as well as the limit switch screw going out of alignment - both of which could cause the paddle gear or the motor gear to break.
  • The motor gear and the paddle gear can break from either closing the door normally or from slamming the door. It starts as a hairline crack then breaks on the final door slam, a freak solar storm, ice build-up, someone leaning on the handle, and etc


  • Upgrade wiring harness can help. For a true fix, buy this kit then upgrade the motor gear material and the paddle gear material or use an anti hairline fracture such as shock pads. Another words, upgrade by using the same design part made from a different stronger, material, reinforce what is already there (this is a square block bolted to the control arm) or use shock absorbing material to prevent the growth of micro-fractures. Please check our other listings for options.
  • For the 2012 version, rotate the limit switch screw counter clockwise 1-2 turn then replace 1 switch harness + gears upgrade.


What's the difference between the three types you sell?

The main difference is that the other two will attempt to fix and prevent all known door handle issues.

1. $40 Flex harness basic (seen on this page) includes everything you need to fix door problems like door won't open, won't present. If it won't present, you may also need a paddle gear from Tesla. (FYI, typically it won't present because the limit switch harness broke, which in turn, breaks the paddle gear. Explains why you a need this kit as a first step.)

2. $48 Flex harness FULL upgrade is for fixing the problems above but also protects the two gears from breaking. 50/50 probability you will need this. The kit also includes protection for the control unit from suddenly locking you out. 20% probability you will need this. This is a good buy if you don't want to spend an extra $300 estimation on labor cost should the problem arise. 3. $40 Flex harness crimp FULL the same as #2 but is a crimp-on type which guarantees water-proofing and more reliable connection but the user has to know how to crimp. This is mainly geared towards the 2012 Tesla S where you can save by buying bulk.

Will this fix my door won't unlatch problem?

Any of our kits could solve your problem. However, one person bought our kit for this purpose but had no luck. He "figure its either wiring or this control unit on the door, or the electrical unit inside the door handle" or the car's central locking control unit. He's looking into it. But in most cases the problem is just a broken switch wire that our kits can solve. Often you can visually see the broken wire or a multimeter can tell you. The unlatch switch is the upper green switch, the one with the shorter double lead next to the control unit.

Alert: Beware that once the switch is installed,the symptoms of a bad switch might creep up due to the control units short circuiting from water penetration or water invasion. Usually, creating a permanent damage. See step 2 (in installation instructions) to prevent it. See my other page for a little more detail why it happens. .com/itm/283172686111.

(Technical details: The logic circuit will need to see a signal from the limit switch before the door will open. Another words, if the limit switch is dead or out of alignment then the door wont unlatch. This is based on the first gen door handle. The firmware may have changed since.)

I bought your switch and and it doesn't work.

Our switches are fully tested before shipment. Email us for technical support to be answered within 24 to 48 hours. When testing the door handle mechanism, please close your, otherwise it won't work - as one customer explained to us.

Perhaps your control unit is dead or the pins were bent when you plugged it in. The pin can be straighten, if that's the case. Otherwise try to determine if your control unit is dead by first testing the switch with a multi meter. It should read 0-9 Ohms. Confirming the wiring the long wire goes to the farthest switch. Just compare it to your OEM switch wire configuration. Does it take the path just like your OEM switch?

Troubleshooting flowchart for Tesla S

What Gen is my door handle? See this image for reference.Gen 1 latch switch: Gen 1 door handle does not have a latch switch, from this perspective. Instead the latch switch is a piezo knock sensor. This mean it may require a large pull gap to get that piezo impact signal. Simply, adjust the limit switch screw.
Spur gear and paddle gear. After replacing these gears from the door handle, the limit switch may need to be replaced immediately (before powering up) otherwise the same condition may happen. For 2012, the limit switch screw should be adjusted prior to powering up.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a multimeter to continuity test the switch while it's still connected to the control unit. As I've found out "how to fry the control unit" on a Gen 1 unit. Digital multimeter or not. Unplug the connector then check the pins leading to the switch. .

Installation instructions
(for screw-on type only) Tools required: T-9 torque screw drivers, a small phillips or flat screw driver, and hot air tool (not required.)
Steps for plug in types:
  1. See steps to remove the weather cover and the simulated roller below under "Steps for screw on types:"
  2. Plug the red connector onto the female connector then use hot air to melt the adhesive for a water tight seal if your car is going under water or if it was bought before Sept 10. Otherwise heating is not required, simply plug it in securely (make sure the clip is engage and locked) then mount the connector facing down. The connector has a reverse plug-in block or reverse prevention. If you don't go in, don't force it in. You might bend the pins.Keep thee connector tucked inward and flat or else the window could snag it.
  3. Alert: Use black and sticky putty (found on the door handle itself) or use dielectric grease to seal the joints of the wires coming from the control unit circuit board, where they meet the epoxy. Apparently, there are a few too many reports of erratic door handle malfunctions that mimics a dead switch. Resulting in a toasted control unit from water penetration. This is an important update if you live near a salty water mist. Fresh water can also conduct.

Steps for screw on types:
  1. Peel off the rubber weather guard on the door handle unit. Use a razor blade to cut the weather strip black putty into two halves. This will make it stickier upon assembly.
  2. Remove your old switch (see figure 7 and 8 or this video https://youtube,com/UZhDQkjPofA?t=361) Where the switch requires a simulated roller, simply pull out your old simulated roller and plug it onto your new switch. We simply use a pair of tweezers or nail clippers - takes about 4 to 6-lb of force to pluck (see pic at bottom of page). For nail clippers, just grip then pry. The clip (shown below) doesn't matter much. Otherwise, a cigarette lighter may help with extraction.

  3. Cut your old switch's harness two wire (as short as possible) or cut away any hidden frail or defective wires. Don't cut near the switch. Cut at least 2.5" or more away from the switch. Remember, the defective parts of the wires are hidden. Recommend 3" for good measure.
  4. This is the most important step. 90% chance of failure will be here. Cut then strip the white and black wires about 16mm (5/8") then twist then fold the copper strands in half ("U" shape) to achieve (correction) 8mm. Folding helps prevents it from popping loose. Fold the copper once again to an "L" shape (see figure 7) then plug or snap the wires into place (either side) onto the block terminal slots. There are no (+. -) polarity. Either black or white wire can go into either slots. The slots may contain some white dielectric seal putty for waterproofing - that's normal. Finally, (important) tighten the terminal block screws (they're set ready for clockwise rotation.) Tighten as best and as tightest as you can. DO NOT hold onto the (black) harness, only hold on to the green block when tightening. Give the wires each a good tug just to make sure it's nice and tight. Tuck/snap the wires in and go to next step. End of important steps,

    zoomzoom large mirror


    Generic 8-step guide (update: Step 3 should be 8mm)

    ROUTING FOR NEW, UPDATED SWITCH (example above is for driver, left doors. Bracket on left pic is no longer used. Simply zip tie the pouch to the motor mount.)

  5. If you have dielectric grease or black sticky putty, squeeze some into the screw hole or any expose copper or metal wires and onto where you snap the wire into the slots(for water proofing.)Terminals are shipped with just enough dielectric for the contacts.
  6. Put the shrink tube over the terminal block then heat it with a cigarette lighter or hot air tool - don't heat the ribbon cable. If the ribbon cables are too long, coil and tuck them in.
  7. Zip tie the shrink tubed block onto the rear of the motor mount - right side up (important: not upside down or sideways, water is bad for copper or zinc coatings.) The other tubed terminal block mounts (zip tie and right side up) on or around the control unit. Keep it tucked in or else the window could snag it.

    FIGURE 7. Generic 7-step guide (update: Step 3 should be 8mm. Additional larger image is at top of listing) 1 2

  8. Screw in the new switch. Important: Don't cross-thread the fine threaded screws (put a thin coat of olive oil on the threads. Avoid oil runs as it could swell the switch's rubber boot. Start by screwing in reverse before going forward. See more info about cross-threading at bottom of page.) Don't install the switch loose. Don't crush the switch.
  9. Fold the flex wires down then tape down any flimsy flat wire low to prevent them from catching on the wind or from getting crushed. Tape down the flex wires near each solder joints. Solder joints are the weakest link in the harness, that's why they have a metal backing. OK to fold then crease flex wires flat.
  10. Go to step 1 and do the same for the second switch. CAUTION: Do each one at a time to avoid mix-ups.

    Prevent cross-threading by coating the screw with cooking oil. Various methods of extracting the roller.

  11. End of steps. For 2012 (first gen, gen1) only - please adjust the limit switch screw - Rotate counter clockwise about 24 hours (or between 1.5 to 2-turns backwards). CAUTION: 2012 owners requires this screw to be adjusted after a switch swap or else the paddle gear may break off. This is a factory calibration defect.
  12. If you need basic tips to get the switch out see this video someone

    Figure 8

  13. Access from here using Screwdriver 93916 (use T-9 torque screw drivers) or long handle ball-end 1/8 or 3mm hex key.

    Cross- threading help.

    Cross-threading occurs when the user screws a bolt into screw hole when the screw isn't going straight-in and appear stuck part way in. There are multiple solutions to this but simply remove the handle arm for a better take at it before installing the now oiled screw perfectly straight in forcing it back on track. The oil helps re-cut the same thread.

    But if no luck then glue the switch in place then keep adding washers on the screw until the screw holds the switch in place.

    To truly prevent cross threading is to remove the handle arm before installing an oiled screw.. Start by screwing in reverse multiple turns then very lightly screw forward. Stop and reverse if you feel any resistance. Minor cross threading can be fixed if the user stop forcing it in when in doubt. This can be learned skill that can prevent any future cross threading.

Tesla Model S Door Handle Microswitch UPGRADED Harness Replacement for 1016009-00-C
* Each switch contains 10 leads/pins, 5 connects to each terminal. 10mm X 250mm, 3/8" x 10" approximate, BRAND AWM

Shipping time. Please allow 1-2 days handling.
class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Arial; font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"> Shipping cost international:

DENMARK $35 Up to 4 sets. (or choose $24 for snail mail 2-7 weeks)

NORWAY $15.50 Up to 4 sets.(1-7 weeks) Typical 14 days

SWISS $15.50 Up to 4 sets

$15.50 Up to 4 sets. (1-7 weeks) GERMANY $15.50 Up to 4 sets. (1-7 weeks) Typical 26 days if held in custom

The custom value will be the total price of the product, not shipping.

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