Tesla Model S Door Handle tri-switch flexible harness upgrade for Sale

Price: $65

This item has been shown 11180 times.

A reliable, durable dual strand, TRIPLE-SWITCH harness kit for your Tesla door handle that should have been in your production vehicle. Fits 2012 thru 2018. Upgrade now to stop sudden harness failures. For one door, any door. 1-2 days handling time. (medical lock-down region. please allow a possible additional 1 day delay) NEW INNOVATION Performance: TRIPLE-SWITCH, INSTALLS FASTER, LAST LONGER. These switches are easier to install because it requires only one tool (a T-9 hex driver.) One tool to both push the pin then screw both switches in. This also reduces cross threading accidents significantly. Unlike ours, others have even resorted to even drill to gain access just to speed up time.
The latch switch is dual paired because there are lots of reports where pulling on the handle the door refuses to open. This helps reduce the chances of a future failure when the switch-life diminish. HOW TO INSTALL THE NEW SWITCHES (Can ONLY install this way).
Click here to enlarge picture.
Step 1. Push out the metal pin with the screw driver.Step 2. Mount the dual latch switch as shown (but not at the location you normally expect.) (Use the included hex screw (T-9.) )
Step 3. Remove old limit switch then mount the limit switch.
Step 4. Fold, clip then tape the wires.
Step 5. Plug in the connector and heat the red sleeve (recommended, but needed if the plug is pointed downward. View example image.)
For passenger side door handles, simply mirror the image. You may leave the old switch where it is. For 2012, your installation job may differ flexible ribbon wire carefully soldered then EPOXY coated onto the waterproof OEM original genuine switch makes a Tesla door handle much more reliable. These wires are made to bend and flex. Don't leave home without it. The stiff OEM factory wires could break on you when it pours or when the deep freeze hits, especially if they're older than 4 - 5 years. This is not the time for you to work on your door or crawl into the driver seat from the passenger side. As excited as I am when technology fails, I can't and won't unscrew a single bolt during a deep freeze - I doubt you want that experience. Not to mention a failed harness could damage the paddle gear or the more expensive motor gear. Longer life than what you get from Tesla.

  • Updated solder scheme and dual flex ribbon wires (10 solder joint per switch for max. reliability. All solder joints are coated then epoxied. Soldered at under 1 seconds.)
  • Waterproof genuine OEM switch, waterproof solder joints
  • No silicone. Silicone eats the switch. Others may often use silicone wires.
  • Male plug red adhesive lined heat shrink tube, Deoxit (signal booster) coated pins.
  • Sub freezing to (176F) 80°C flex ribbon wires

Our thin copper ribbon can flex without breaking while thicker round wires won't. Double ribbon prevents kinking, wobbling in the wind and increase reliability. They can be kinked and crease folded.. Best choice compared to other Tesla switches or Tesla aftermarket switch harness.

Water proofing is important, so our connector also offers adhesive lined shrink plastic. The rubber foam seal is part one of the seal. Adhesive lined is part two. In all, a double seal. Submersible Outperforms the factory connectors. Wall thickness 1.7-2mm.

Kit contains:
  • 1 kit brand new micro switch flat ribbon flexible harness. The single switch is for the limit switch with a simulated roller. The dual switch is for the latch switch.
  • 2 zip ties
  • All weather 10-mil tapes (10mm x 50mm)
  • No printed instructions included
*Technical details: Micro switch is the same as the Tesla genuine factory switch (Japan origin). Twin ribbon flex wires with 24 solder joints total with rigid backing. Each solder joints are kept under a second on a low wattage iron, so you know your switch will last. Switch terminal epoxy coated, Flexible ribbon is about the same type found in desktop scanners, some printers. 10mm X 250mm, 3/8" x 15" approximate. 10mm X 250mm, 3/8" x 15" approximate.
COMPATIBILITY/FITMENTS: Fits all 2012 thru 2018 Tesla S door handles.


What's the difference between the other types you sell?

The main difference is that the other will attempt to fix and prevent all known to date door handle issues.

1. $60+ Flex harness basic (seen on this page) includes everything you need to fix door problems like door won't open, won't present. If it won't present, you may also need a paddle gear from Tesla. (FYI, typically it won't present because the limit switch harness broke, which in turn, breaks the paddle gear. Explains why you a need this kit as a first step.) This kit does not fix a dead control unit.

2. $70+ Flex harness FULL upgrade is for fixing the problems above but also protects the two gears from breaking. 50/50 probability you will need this. The kit also includes protection for the control unit from suddenly locking you out. 20% probability you will need this. This is a good buy if you don't want to spend an extra $300 estimation on labor cost should the problem arise. This kit does not fix a dead control unit, only prevents it.

Will this fix my door presents but won't open?
Yes, this will fix 2013-2018 presenting the door handle but not opening but only if the switch harness is broken. This won't fix it if the door presents but not opening if the control unit is dead. For the 2012, this won't fix it if the limit switch adjustment screw is out of alignment.

Any of our kits could solve your problem. However, one person bought our kit for this purpose but had no luck. He "figure its either wiring or this control unit on the door, or the electrical unit inside the door handle" or the car's central locking control unit. He's looking into it. But in most cases the problem is just a broken switch wire that our kits can solve. Often you can visually see the broken wire or a multimeter can tell you. The unlatch switch is the upper green switch, the one with the shorter double lead next to the control unit.

Alert: Beware of dead control unit. that once the switch is installed,the symptoms of a bad switch might creep up due to the control units short circuiting from water penetration or water invasion. Usually, creating a permanent damage. See step 2 (in installation instructions) to prevent it. See my other page for a little more detail why it happens. .com/itm/283172686111.

Won't unlatch caused by limit switch: The logic circuit will need to see a signal from the limit switch before the door will open. Another words, if the limit switch is dead or out of alignment then the door wont unlatch. This is based on the first gen door handle. The firmware may have changed since.) Door pops open when it presents : Limit switch adjustment screw is probably out of alignment? See how to adjust it at step 11, under the installation tutorial. This could also be a symptom of a limit switch broken wiring. If it extends not too far out then pops open, it could be a bad control unit or other parts.

Won't unlatch caused by door ajar: Shut the door then it will open.

Your switch doesn't work. Our switches are fully tested before shipment. Email us for technical support to be answered within 24 to 48 hours. When testing the door handle mechanism, please close your, otherwise it won't work - as one customer explained to us.

Perhaps your control unit is dead or the pins were bent when you plugged it in. The pin can be straighten, if that's the case. Otherwise try to determine if your control unit is dead by first testing the switch with a multi meter. It should read 0-9 Ohms. Confirming the wiring orientation...like the long wire goes to the farthest switch. Just compare it to your OEM switch wire configuration. Does it take the path just like your OEM switch?

Troubleshooting flowchart for Tesla SNote: Please shut the door when performing the flow chart test.
What Gen is my door handle? See this image for reference.Gen 1 latch switch: Gen 1 door handle does not have a latch switch, from this perspective. Instead the latch switch is a piezo knock sensor. This mean it may require a large pull gap to get that piezo impact signal. Simply, adjust the limit switch screw.
Spur gear and paddle gear. After replacing these gears from the door handle, the limit switch may need to be replaced immediately (before powering up) otherwise the same condition may happen. For 2012, the limit switch screw should be adjusted prior to powering up.
CAUTION: DO NOT use a multimeter to continuity test the switch while it's still connected to the control unit. As I've found out "how to fry the control unit" on a Gen 1 unit. Digital multimeter or not. Unplug the connector then check the pins leading to the switch. .


The door handle limit switch screw stops the handle after it presents so you have the little gap when you pull the handle. Screw it counter-clockwise gives you more pull gap. Look for gaps in the wire shroud. Gaps should be fixed.

Installation instructions Tools required: T-9 torque screw drivers, a small phillips or flat screw driver, pliers and hot air tool (not required.)
Steps for plug in types:
  1. See steps to remove the weather cover and the simulated roller (if needed) below under "Steps for screw on types:"
  2. Plug the red connector onto the female connector then use hot air to melt the adhesive for a water tight seal if your car is going under water. Otherwise heating is not required, simply plug it in securely (make sure the clip is engage and locked) then mount the connector facing down. Since our switch is submersible, you may want to face it down - so water coming from the factory connector is stopped. Facing down is a best choice. Note: The plug connector is heat sensitive, Keep away from stove-top or heater.
  3. Follow the diagram drawing below to route the flat wires. zoom

  4. Keep thee connector tucked inward and flat or else the window could snag it.
  5. Note: Use black and sticky putty (found on the door handle itself) or use dielectric grease to seal the joints of the wires coming from the control unit circuit board, where they meet the epoxy. Apparently, there are a few too many reports of erratic door handle malfunctions that mimics a dead switch. Resulting in a toasted control unit from water penetration. This is an important update if you live near a salty water mist. Fresh water can also conduct.
  6. Important: Always use the door handle weather rubber sheet guard. Without it, the window could snag several wires and rip it apart. It may even snag the switch then break it. Make sure all components are tucked inward to prevent the window from snagging it.
Steps for screw on types:
  1. Peel off the rubber weather guard on the door handle unit. Use a razor blade to cut the weather strip black putty into two halves. This will make it stickier upon assembly.
  2. Remove your old switch (see figure 7 and 8 or this video https://youtube,com/UZhDQkjPofA?t=361) Where the switch requires a simulated roller, simply pull out your old simulated roller and plug it onto your new switch. Pull out your old simulated roller and plug it onto your new switch - onto the switch with the longest wire. We simply use a pair of tweezers, mini pliers or nail clippers to pull it - takes about 4 to 6-lb of force to pluck (see pic at bottom of page). Caution: Don't bend the steel as you pull. Otherwise, a cigarette lighter may help with extraction.

  3. Cut your old switch's harness two wire (as short as possible) or cut away any hidden frail or defective wires. Don't cut near the switch. Cut at least 2.5" or more away from the switch. Remember, the defective parts of the wires are hidden. Recommend 3" for good measure.
  4. This is the most important step. 90% chance of failure will be here. Cut then strip the white and black wires about 16mm (5/8") then twist then fold the copper strands in half ("U" shape) to achieve (correction) 8mm. Folding helps prevents it from popping loose. Fold the copper once again to an "L" shape (see figure 7) then plug or snap the wires into place (either side) onto the block terminal slots. There are no (+. -) polarity. Either black or white wire can go into either slots. The slots may contain some white dielectric seal putty for waterproofing - that's normal. Finally, (important) tighten the terminal block screws (they're set ready for clockwise rotation.) Tighten as best and as tightest as you can. DO NOT hold onto the (black) harness, only hold on to the green block when tightening. Give the wires each a good tug just to make sure it's nice and tight. Tuck/snap the wires in and go to next step. End of important steps,

    zoomzoom large mirror


    Generic 8-step guide (update: Step 3 should be 8mm)

    ROUTING FOR NEW, UPDATED SWITCH (example above is for driver, left doors. Bracket on left pic is no longer used. Simply zip tie the pouch to the motor mount.)

  5. If you have dielectric grease or black sticky putty, squeeze some into the screw hole or any expose copper or metal wires and onto where you snap the wire into the slots(for water proofing.)Terminals are shipped with just enough dielectric for the contacts.
  6. Put the shrink tube over the terminal block then heat it with a cigarette lighter or hot air tool - don't heat the ribbon cable. If the ribbon cables are too long, coil and tuck them in.
  7. Zip tie the shrink tubed block onto the rear of the motor mount - right side up (important: not upside down or sideways, water is bad for copper or zinc coatings.) The other tubed terminal block mounts (zip tie and right side up) on or around the control unit. Keep it tucked in or else the window could snag it.

    FIGURE 7. Generic 7-step guide (update: Step 3 should be 8mm. Additional larger image is at top of listing) 1 2

  8. Screw in the new switch. Important: Don't cross-thread the fine threaded screws (put a thin coat of olive oil on the threads. Avoid oil runs as it could swell the switch's rubber boot. Start by screwing in reverse before going forward. See more info about cross-threading at bottom of page.) Don't install the switch loose. Don't crush the switch.
  9. Fold the flex wires down then tape down any flimsy flat wire low to prevent them from catching on the wind or from getting crushed. Tape down the flex wires near each solder joints. Solder joints are the weakest link in the harness, that's why they have a metal backing. OK to fold then crease flex wires flat.
  10. Go to step 1 and do the same for the second switch. CAUTION: Do each one at a time to avoid mix-ups.

    Prevent cross-threading by coating the screw with cooking oil. Various methods of extracting the roller.

  11. End of steps. For 2012 or early 2013 (first gen, gen1) only - please adjust the limit switch screw - Rotate counter clockwise about 24 hours (or between 1.5 to 2-turns backwards). CAUTION: 2012 owners requires this screw to be adjusted after a switch swap or else the paddle gear may break off. This is a factory calibration defect.

  12. If you need basic tips to get the switch out see this video someone

    Figure 8

  13. Access from here using Screwdriver 93916 (use T-9 torque screw drivers) or long handle ball-end 1/8 or 3mm hex key.

    Cross- threading help.

    Cross-threading occurs when the user screws a bolt into screw hole when the screw isn't going straight-in and appear stuck part way in. There are multiple solutions to this but simply remove the handle arm for a better take at it before installing the now oiled screw perfectly straight in forcing it back on track. The oil helps re-cut the same thread.

    But if no luck then glue the switch in place then keep adding washers on the screw until the screw holds the switch in place.

    To truly prevent cross threading is to remove the handle arm before installing an oiled screw.. Start by screwing in reverse multiple turns then very lightly screw forward. Stop and reverse if you feel any resistance. Minor cross threading can be fixed if the user stop forcing it in when in doubt. This can be learned skill that can prevent any future cross threading.

Tesla Model S Door Handle Microswitch UPGRADED Harness Replacement for 1016009-00-C

Shipping time. Please allow 1-2 days handling.
class="Apple-interchange-newline" style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Arial; font-size: large; font-style: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px;"> Shipping cost international:

DENMARK $35 Up to 4 sets. (or choose $24 for snail mail 2-7 weeks)

NORWAY $15.50 Up to 4 sets.(1-7 weeks) Typical 14 days

SWISS $15.50 Up to 4 sets

$15.50 Up to 4 sets. (1-7 weeks) GERMANY $15.50 Up to 4 sets. (1-7 weeks) Typical 26 days if held in custom

The custom value will be the total price of the product, not shipping.

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